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- Day 12
- Tuesday, October 22, 2024 at 9:10 PM
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 2,425 ft
SpainGrañón42°27’1” N 3°1’37” W
One of the most special evenings.

There have been so many memories made already on this Camino. Tonight will forever be etched in my memory for so many reasons. I caught up Fiona from Ireland. After mass, I chatted with Bill and Luann from America , having not seen them in 5 or so days.
It was a farewell to Eric and Karlin as I am walking twice as far as they are tomorrow. I will keep in touch, and maybe we will meet up again along the way.
More than that though,it was a pretty amazing evening that really drove home the true magic of a Camino. 40+ individuals coming together sleeping in a church
The churches on the camino vary so much. Many share a unique history and sense of place in their community. To spend the night at Albergue San Juan Bautista in Grañon is to experience one of the more original highlights of the camino. Housed in the 16th century church of San Juan Bautista, this is a “donativo” where no set tariff is in place, but the pilgrim offers up whatever they can afford.
The first thing that struck me was the extreme contradiction after Santo domingo where there was a €9 charge to go into the church! Yet here is a church that opens its door to anyone. It is open 24hrs a day, and never turns anyone away. It asks only that you donate what you wish for staying there and the meal etc.
Boots and poles are left strictly at the front door. The sleeping facilities are on different levels, but no beds… just floor mats.
The evening meal was prepared by us pilgrims. We all chopped, cut, peeled and cooked. Our meal tonight was paid for our of the donations from last evening and so on. We ate a hearty meal of salad, tuna pasta, fresh bread, red wine, and fruit salad.
It was so nice to share the experience with so many I already knew. Marco, Eleanora, Yana and Tana, Vinchenzo, Dana, Ollie, Lydia, Fiona, Karlin, Eric and so many more.
Before we could eat, each country represented had to sing in their own language.... thankfully they ran out of time before everyone was tortured with either the dulcet tones of Australia or England
After we ate, the dishes were all collected at one end of the table. Then large bowls of soapy water, and rinsing water, and with military precision we all washed dishes....oh did I say there was a soap sud fight? ( no prizes for guessing who started that one.)
Dinner was followed by an evening reflection held in the candlelit upper church choir room. Here was a chance to get to know our walking comrades on a deeper level. All were requested to participate and put voice to their camino experience. A pilgrims candle is passed around, and one by one we can either say what we are grateful for, what we wish to get from our Caminos, or we can peacefully sit with the candle for a moment. It is lovely that people all spoke in their native languages.
Throughout the Camino we are given stamps in our credentials from each albergue...all except this one. Their philosophy is that the evening is stamped in our hearts instead. To seal the stamp we move around the room sharing hugs.
Now it's a sleepless night in a room of 101 snorers!.Read more
TravelerBeautiful memories for you all. Such an experience. Yes I am sure it was you who started soap sud mess!
What a wonderful night and the meal looked so good, it made me feel hungry. Perhaps the smoring made you all drop off to sleep ?????? [Pearl]