Soggy socks, and spider woman,

I awoke once overnight due to the sound of heavy rain.....and yes, it continued for the first 4 hours of walking today.

So the day started in rain poncho, which doubles up for warmth too as it's like being in a humidity tent. Only my legs were bare as wet legs are better than wet trouser legs clinging to you.

The first few miles were simply rewalking yesterday's route. Then a decision to be made. There are 2 routes into Burgos. For me, it was easy - the one with slightly less road walking even if it was longer.

Hmmm....the amount of rain overnight adding to today's rain made the trail impassable at points. There was no way I was backtracking, so.....alongside the trail ran a very tall security mesh fence on one side, and a watercourse on the other. Anyone reviewing security footage will no doubt be in stitches at my spiderwoman impersonation...I literally climbed on to the fence (backpack and all) and moved sidewards along it for about 25 metres. Still not sure how I managed to hold on for so long.

The walking was largely on loose stone, and roadways-a killer on the feet after this long. There were several miles of walking through industrial areas as there is with most cities.

Burgos is a pretty city even in the rain. As a tourist, I might enjoy it as there appears plenty to see and do. I loved the mix of old and new sculptures and art work. As a pilgrim, I found it, like most other big cities, a lonely place to be, and a shock to the system after days of tranquillity.
I saw the cathedral from the outside. I object to paying to see a church on any level. I am more than happy to make a donation, but religion should be inclusive of all, not exclusive based on money. The church certainly makes enough money.

Burgos was the halfway point today. The rain settled for a couple of hours, as I exited through another industrial, busy area, to once again find the peace of nature.
Today has been a solitary day. I passed only two other pilgrims all day. Then this familiar voice called 'Hola Helen!' It was Vanessa, the Spanish cyclist. We had coffee together and then bid farewell.
With only a little under 2 miles left to walk, a light rain started. The pack cover was still in place, but my poncho was packed away. To heck with it. I continued walking, knowing I would soon have a hot shower and dry clothes.

As I was walking in the rain today, and my walking days are rapidly decreasing, I decided to treat myself to a single room in a hotel/hostel.

Let me explain what showering in a dormitory situation is like so you can start to understand the luxury of an ensuite bathroom.

The shower and toilet facilities are frequently male and female combined. The shower cubicles are generally a shower stall with nowhere to dress other than in the area that is wet post showering. There are infrequently hooks on the back of the door to keep things dry - you learn early on that a plastic 's' hook for hanging over the door quickly becomes your most treasured possession.

Many of the showers have a push button timer for the water, meaning you have to keep pressing it to prolong the shower. Many don't have temperature control, so at best, you get a really hot shower... at worst, it's freezing cold - I've certainly had both. Some have a token to operate so there is no extending your time.

Once you are showered, drying becomes a balancing act...dressing and keeping you clothes dry a near impossibility, especially this time of year when the evenings require trousers over shorts.

Today, I had the longest hottest shower. I enjoyed every moment. There were even proper towels.... what a luxury after 2 weeks of hiking towels - hey, they are efficient and light weight, but nothing beats a real towel for feeling really dry

Tonight, I sleep between two cotton sheets. In an Albergue, generally, the mattresses are rubber covered, and we are issued a paper bottom sheet. On rare occasions, the sheets are cotton. The pillows are thick and solid with no give. This year, I packed an inflatable pillow....heaven!

If you are lucky you get a bottom bunk, though sometimes that too can be unlucky as some top bunks are sufficiently low that you can't sit up in a bottom bunk because the head clearance is non existent. If you get the top bunk, the fear of not finding the ladder down in the dark is enough to train the weakest bladder to lay all night.

Despite all that, tonight as I lay here, I'm missing the albergue life...perhaps not the snorers.....

Steps today 41474
Miles today 20.94
Total 277.49milesRead more