Day 34. Astorga to Foncebadón

Very peculiar day today. We had a good night, got up at a reasonable hour, breakfast at 7:15h. No point in rushing because daybreak only at 8:30h. While Isabelle finished getting her things together I had a nap. Then the question came what is the opening time of chemists because Isabelle had a problem with one hand. While we looked for a chemist the clock continued turning. Opening at 9:30, plus de problème. It was 9:20h already, so we sat on a bench in front of the chemist's. Finished at the chemist's we started walking. The camino passes the cathedral and we tried the door because Isabelle would have liked to have her first sello (stamp) in her credential from the cathedral - I had mine yesterday, but she didn't because she did not carry her credential in her handbag. Cathedral door still closed - going to open at 10h. By then it was 9:50h. What are ten minutes wait. So she got her stamp and we started walking again - a very happy Isabelle!
She is a very good walker. After almost 5 km we arrived in Murias de Rechivaldo dying for a bar to have a drink. Pas de bar ouvert. From there we continued on an alternative camino which after only two km led to Castrillo de los Polvazares. There we found a Posto de Salud(?) where Isabelle could consult a doctor about her hand. So we sat in the waiting room and after a while developed a lively conversation with the others, Isabelle with perfect Spanish (Latin American) and I with my tried Portuñol.

By the time we came out it was after midday and we looked for a restaurant - we had asked for a recommendation, but nothing was open. There were a number of restaurants, but all were closed because of their weekly rest day.

So after a village with no bar or restaurant open, here was another one with nothing open! So we continued walking until we stopped in a spot of shade and had some digestive biscuits and continued walking.

We were still on our alternative camino - nobody else about, heavenly. After a long climb we had a stop for my siesta - at 15h - and then finished the long climb which went up to Santa Catalina de Somoza. And there - we could not believe our eyes - there was a bar/restaurant! And it was open. And two old men sitting on the terrace, legs stretched out, half asleep, greeted the event of our arrival with much excitement.

And since we had our reservation for the night at Foncebadón, a total of 26 km from Astorga (which I cannot handle) and we were going to take a taxi somewhere anyway for the rest of the distance to Foncebadón, we/I decided to call it a day - Isabelle would have continued to El Ganso, another 5 km, but she is more than 20 years younger, and I do not feel like killing myself.

We are nicely installed in a private room with private bathroom, had our cañas and a bite to eat and finally a walkabout. This is a very small village with lots of houses in ruins, several albergues some of them in various stages of renovation or even rebuilding. And a great number of pilgrims - no tourists at all. Everybody was outside drinking and talking loudly and we expected wild feasting, but no. Just after 22 pm all is quiet!

Voilà! What a day!Read more