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Outer Hebrides cycle tour

This is an account of a trip by Andrew Holmes Chris Walker and Rick Nelmes. Andrew and Chris are cycling the length of the outer Hebrides in support of cancer research. Rick is our wing man driving the campervan and generally organising things. Read more
  • Trip start
    March 28, 2025

    All loaded ready for the first leg N

    March 28 in England ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    We are raising money for cancer research UK on our cycle of the outer Hebrides. Andrew and Chris will be cycling. Richard will be supporting driving the motorhome.

    Thanks for visiting my fundraising page. In the last 50 years, Cancer Research UK’s work has helped double cancer survival in the UK. But we need to go further, faster. Donate today to help bring about a world where everybody lives longer, better lives, free from the fear of cancer. https://fundraise.cancerresearchuk.org/page/chr…Read more

  • Culag beach - Loch Lomond

    March 29 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Fabulous views of Loch Lomond from our pitch. Drove a few hours from Lancashire, last night to get start on our trip towards Oban. We outlined stopping in Balloch for supper at the south end of Loch Lomond. This turned out to be too optimistic timìng so we 'wild camped' for the night beside the Loch. The morning was busy with arrivals and departures including a group of people loading their canoes to paddle into the Loch to wild camp on its banks.Read more

  • Oban to Castlebay

    March 30 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    12: 40 we set sail on the MV Isle of Lewis from Oban bound for Castlebay. The ship had sailed 22 hours from Aberdeen overnight after its annual refit. There was plenty of room on the car deck. We were in the middle of the line laid out for 2 rows of cars. We departed with 22 crew, 29 pre-booked passengers and an estimated 10 who paid on the day. The ship can transport a few hundred people so we had plenty of room.

    Glorious sunshine and stiff breeze at sea. Sea state fairly flat through the Sound of Mull then a gentle swell out of the shelter of the sound as we crossed the 'Sea of the Hebrides'.
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  • South Uist history tour

    March 31 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    We sailed on 40 minute ferry from Ardamor on Barra to Eriskay island over the Sound of Barra. We passed many uninhabited islands including Hellisay, Gighay to the east and Fuday to the west. The water was extremely smooth, presumably because it was sheltered by islands.

    While Andrew and Chris cycled through Eriskay, South Uist and Benbecula I did a history tour of South Uist. I stopped to hike to Cladh Hallan ancient roundhouses. These were first constructed 2500 BC and had been occipied for 900 years before being rebuilt on the same site.

    Then visited the site of Flora Macdonald's home. She was famous for sheltering and organising & assisting evacuating Bonnie Prince Charlie after his defeat at the battle of Culloden.
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  • Leg 3 Eriskay Ferry to Balivanich

    March 31 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Lovely landscape on this part of the coast! Cycled hoping to find a café open or supermarket as neither of us had planned food. Ended up stopping for an energy bar which Andrew found in his Rusack. Play the good game guessing the sale by date which turned out to be July 2016! Kept us going though!Read more

  • Leg 4 Balavanich to Bernaray

    April 1 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Today Andrew and myself set off for North Uist; Bernaray whilst Rick went hiking. It was windy today 30 miles an hour plus which is fine when the wind is behind you but when the wind is head on makes progress difficult. We had beautiful sunshine though and found a fantastic camping stop on the beach. Both Andrew found myself caught the Sun.Read more

  • Hiking up Marieabhal

    April 1 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    While Chris and Andrew cycled Benbecula - North Uist - Berneray, I drove up the oddly name 'Committee Road' on North Uist to a point near a standing stone called Beinn a Charra. I then walked on up the nearby mountain of Marieabhal 755ft/230m. Very boggy at the start of the walk, drier higher up, extremely windy on the top.Read more

  • Leg 5 Leverburgh to Loch Shiphort

    April 2 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Today we started by crossing on the ferry to Harris Ride started around 1030. The first part of the course was flat Ish for the second part got very hilly. We did about 750 m of ascent today. Found a beautiful camping place in a layby by a Loch. Finished around 630.Read more

  • Leg 6 Loch Shiphort to Eilean fraoich c

    April 3 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    The day started bright and sunny with a light north easterly wind. Set off relatively early as we had no ferry to catch. We had a T stop at around 20 K where Richard was waiting with the van. Carried on our journey had something to eat at a stone circle. Andrew arrived at the campsite around 430 with me getting in sometime later when the van was all set up.Read more

  • Beach near Eilean Fraoich

    April 3 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Eilean Fraoich campsite was excellent quality. Level pitches with gravel glued in place preventing it spreading, neatly mown grass, spacious welfare cubicles, long fresh water hose that easily stretched to our pitch, grey and waste water disposal, recycling bins, friendly greeting. Photos are from from an evening walk across the beach near the campsite.Read more

  • Black and white houses

    April 4 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Between Eilean Fraoich campsite and Butt of Lewis, while Chris and Andrew were cycling, I visited a preserved Blackhouse and Whitehouse. I learned that original Hebridean houses were made from walls of stone, with roof timbers made principally from driftwood (because trees are rare), thatched with Oat straw, secured by spun rope weighted down with rocks.

    Latterly, when the population began building 2 story houses that were limewashed inside they began calling these 'whitehouses'. They then began calling their original houses 'blackhouses'.
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  • Leg 7 Eilean Fraoich to Butt of Lewis

    April 4 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Woke up to another bright and cloudless day! There was a strong wind coming from the east Northeast; the direction in which we were headed. The cycling was hard work against the headwind. Rick gave us a tea break halfway. Andrew arrived at around 2 o’clock, Rick a few minutes later and I arrived some 3/4 of an hour later. We all agreed that the scenery was not as nice at the top of Lewis as it was Harris.Read more

  • Homeward bound

    April 5 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Butt of Lewis lighthouse is the most northerly point on the Isle of Lewis. After arriving here, loading bikes and having some snacks we drove a short distance down the west coast to Port Ness. This is the most northerly port on the island. Boats entering the harbour have a very challenging approach between rocks.

    Then drove on to Stornoway and parked a couple of streets away from the ferry terminal. After a walk around the harbour we repaired to the Bangla Spice indian restaurant for supper. Walked back to the van via Tesco to buy Cider and pudding to finish off the evening.

    Very early start on Saturday morning, drove to the ferry terminal at 05:45 to book in for 07:00 sailing. Ferry set sail a few minutes early at 06:55. Sea state similar to our outbound ferry from Oban but without swell, so was extremely smooth. Return crossing to Ullapool was shorter than our outbound trip, arriving approximately 09:45.

    From Ullapool we drove up the very beautiful Loch Broom, then over mountains to Inverness and on to Lancashire arriving around 18:00. A take away Chinese and film finished off our adventure.
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    Trip end
    April 6, 2025