The Catlins

Neil has gently pointed out that it’s probably time I added another chapter to this blog… so here we go.
Our first stop after Wallacetown was a wee place called Fortrose — and what a find it turned out to be. We parked right on the beachfront and were treated to the most stunning views, morning and night. I added a few more treasures to my ever-growing stone collection, including a beautiful carnelian agate. Now all I need is to track down a rock tumbler to polish them up! Neil, however, is not quite matching my enthusiasm for this new hobby…
The Catlins is just breathtaking — so much so that we’re really only skimming the surface as we hop from spot to spot. We spent a night at Slope Point, the southernmost tip of the South Island, parked at a lovely flat freedom site right on the estuary. Getting there, though, was a bit of an adventure. The NZMCA directions weren’t entirely spot-on, we missed the turnoff, and promptly got ourselves well and truly stuck. Thankfully, a very kind farmer came to our rescue and pulled us out — the South Island’s reputation for friendliness is absolutely deserved.
In between all of that, we’ve been stopping off at a few of the Catlins’ waterfalls and taking our time on some beautiful bush walks, with native birds providing the soundtrack. Honestly, it’s pretty special wandering through that lush greenery with birdsong echoing all around — one of those simple pleasures that really sticks with you.
We also stopped in at Niagara Falls (clearly named by someone with a great sense of humour!) for coffee and a bite to eat. While there, we met some lovely locals, one of whom suggested we try the now-closed Curioscape campsite at Curio Bay. What an incredible spot — private little bays tucked between hedges of native flax. While we were there, we also got to see the famous petrified forest. At first glance it just looks like a scattering of big rocks, but when you take a closer look you can spot the tell-tale wood grain in some of them — such a cool thing to see. The whole place had us wondering why on earth it had closed (Google filled in that story later). We half expected a knock on the door telling us to move on, but it never came.
Next stop was Papatowai DOC camp — another great place to settle in for the night.
Today we made our way to Owaka, which has a fantastic little souvenir shop run by a genuinely lovely owner. Not only did he point us toward a few must-see spots, he even lent us his binoculars. Armed with those, we headed off to Jack’s Blowhole, stood around for half an hour in the rain and cold hoping to spot yellow-eyed penguins… no luck. Then we nearly shook the motorhome to pieces on a road better suited to an amphibious vehicle while trying to find some sea lions we’d spotted earlier… also no luck!
Cold, damp, and slightly bedraggled, we’ve now parked up behind what might be the oldest and grottiest yacht club I’ve ever seen — but it sits on the most picturesque stretch of the Catlins River and lake, so no complaints really.
The motorhome currently smells like wet dog, and we’ve got enough dirty washing to rival a laundromat… but honestly, we’re as happy as pigs in mud.Weiterlesen