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The South Island Tour
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The South Island Tour

The Slightly Chaotic South Island Tour of Neil's on Wheels. Read more
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    🇳🇿 Marlborough District, New Zealand
    Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Governer's Bay/Kaiapoi/Christchurch

    May 14–18 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    It had been suggested that instead of heading back into Christchurch through Tai Tapu, we take the scenic route around the Banks Peninsula coast towards Lyttelton — and we’re so glad we did.
    We drove through Diamond Harbour and around to Governor’s Bay, where I had found a POP site that sounded very inviting and was described as extremely dog friendly. The Otomoriro Tavern allows NZMCA members to park free of charge in their carpark below the tavern, with the gentle encouragement to make use of the tavern facilities (oh dear… how terrible 😜).
    When we went in for dinner, we were pleasantly surprised to be invited to bring the dogs inside with us. Both dogs were beautifully behaved. Diesel, as always, was thoroughly admired. The usual reaction goes something like: “Oh what a beautiful dog! What breed is he?” followed by vigorous ear scratches and pats. Poor Marley often gets overlooked initially, but she’s perfected the art of inserting herself directly into the middle of any affection being given to Diesel!
    While tethering the dogs at the parking site, I spotted a four-leaf clover… then another… and another! Poor Neil searched for ages and didn’t find a single one 😂 I seem to have a knack for finding them, and I’ve discovered that where there’s one, there are usually plenty more nearby.

    The next morning we took the dogs for a long walk down to Sandy Bay — possibly the most inaccurately named beach ever, considering it was almost entirely stones and rocks! The scenery from both the beach and the wharf was absolutely breathtaking though.

    We drove through Lyttelton but didn’t stop, mainly because finding a park there in a car is hard enough, let alone in a motorhome with a trailer attached. We did, however, take the opportunity to visit Neil’s Aunty Pauline, who lives nearby. She was so happy to see us, and we also got to catch up with Neil’s cousin Phil while we were there.
    We had a spare night to fill before heading into Christchurch proper, so we decided to spend it in Kaiapoi. We stayed at the NZMCA park there and were absolutely blown away by how lovely it was. It honestly has to be one of the nicest NZMCA sites we’ve come across so far.

    The site is surrounded by a large area of urban “red zone” land that has been transformed into reserves and parklands after the earthquakes, so it really feels as though you’re staying right in the middle of a beautiful park.
    We went into town for coffee at a gorgeous little café called “Paris for the Weekend” and enjoyed wandering along the river watching all the boats tied up on the Kaiapoi River, which eventually flows out into the Waimakariri River. There was something about it that reminded me so much of the canals and locks in Scotland — peaceful, picturesque, and full of character.

    Our next stop had to be the best POP site we’ve stayed at yet — 35 Mounter Ave, Northwood, Christchurch. A place where everybody knows your name (lol), you get fed, watered (wined!!), have unlimited hot showers, power, and the very best company.
    We’re incredibly grateful for family who are always happy to see us… or at least pretend very convincingly 😆
    While in Christchurch, Neil and I also went along to the Caravan and Motorhome Show. I may or may not have found our next motorhome… and, purely coincidentally of course, there just happens to be a second-hand one for sale in Tauranga! 😜

    In all seriousness though, we have absolutely loved this experience so much that we’d eventually love to spend our retirement travelling the country full time. (Subtle hint there for Neil, love of my life 😂).
    While we were in Christchurch, Carol, Malcolm, Neil and I — along with the dogs — decided to go for a bike ride. Unfortunately the ride turned into a bit more of an adventure than expected!
    Neil came off his bike on some loose gravel and badly bruised his arm. Not to be outdone, I then came off my bike as well after Diesel suddenly pulled me over, leaving me a little battered and bruised too 😂
    Thankfully nothing was seriously injured except perhaps our pride. But hey… it’s all part of the experience, right?
    One of the absolute highlights of our Christchurch stay was going to see the Pink Floyd Experience — The Wall. What an incredible show. Not just musically brilliant, but visually and theatrically amazing as well.    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Akaroa

    May 11–14 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Although we’d been to Akaroa before, both Neil and I were keen to go back. My main reason was Birdling’s Flat — a famous rockhounding beach known for its agates, chalcedony… and its dangerous surf. I may have collected “a few” stones already on this trip (Neil reckons I’ve added a couple of tonne to the motorhome!), but I was determined to find more.

    Our first night was spent in a tiny carpark overlooking the water at Robinson’s Bay. During the night the wind howled, the rain hammered down and the motorhome rocked around so much it felt like we were out at sea. Thankfully we were “built on the rock” and survived the night just fine! By morning you’d never have guessed — the sky was bright blue and completely calm.

    From there it was only a short drive into Akaroa, where we stayed at the same freedom camping spot we used five years ago. Akaroa really is a gorgeous little town. Originally settled by the French, it still has that lovely French feel to it. We wandered the waterfront with the dogs, explored the bush walks, visited the lighthouse, and I even managed to find some sea glass along the shore.

    The only downside was our neighbours deciding 2am was the perfect time for a party. Out came the dressing gown while I went over for a polite “please turn the music down”!

    Next we headed to French Farm Estate, a POP site recommended by Carol and Malc. It used to be a winery and is now being turned into a restaurant and bar. Although the renovations meant the restaurant wasn’t open, they were happy to have us stay — and we even scored power for the night.

    Of course, no trip to Akaroa is complete without stopping at Barry’s Bay Cheese Factory, so naturally we stocked up on cheese before heading back to Birdling’s Flat. As we arrived, Neil spotted a car bogged on the beach and immediately headed over with the traction mats and spade to help. In the end a local with a 4WD had to pull them out — apparently it happens there all the time!

    We also visited the local gemstone and mineral museum, where I discovered I actually had found real agates at Birdling’s Flat after all. I was very chuffed with myself!    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Oamaru to Geraldine

    May 6 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I’ve just realised how long it’s been since I updated this blog, so now I’m having to piece together what we’ve actually been up to over the past few weeks!
    Oamaru was such a cool place to visit. We stayed at the racecourse for two nights and spent our time wandering around the town. One of the highlights was definitely the Steampunk HQ museum — quirky, creative and just plain fun. Steampunk is basically a weird and wonderful sci-fi world where futuristic technology meets Victorian England, all powered by steam and imagination. Think “what people in the 1800s imagined the future might look like.”
    We also caught up with Neil’s cousin Jocelyn and her hubby Paul at the Salvation Army. The funniest part was that she didn’t recognise Neil at first!
    After Oamaru, we debated where to head next. Neither of us were particularly keen on staying in Timaru (although we did stop there to stock up on essentials), so we ended up at a tiny freedom camping spot near Temuka called Winchester Bridge. Best decision ever. We’d barely parked up and let the dogs out when a gorgeous GSP named Rocket came bounding over to say hello, followed closely by his owner Andrew from Whitianga apologising for the enthusiastic welcome. The dogs had a blast playing together, and we ended up having great company for the evening.
    I also attempted — unsuccessfully — to rescue a wee feral kitten living beside the river. Unfortunately the dogs were far too interested in chasing the poor little thing.
    The next morning we headed into Geraldine, which really surprised us. For such a small town, it has a lot going on and a surprising amount of industry. Definitely one of those places that feels much bigger than it actually is.    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    A snapshot of motorhome reality!

    May 5 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Life on the Road: A Small Glimpse—Practicalities and All

    Motorhome life has done wonders for my appreciation of basic grooming… mostly because it’s turned it into an extreme sport. Shaving my legs now requires either Olympic-level balance or a full calisthenics routine in a bathroom roughly the size of a shoebox. One wrong move and I’m wedged between the sink and the door like a confused flamingo.
    I finally tackled my underarms after realising I’d left it so long I was bordering on being able to braid them. The epilator needed power, power needed remembering, and remembering clearly wasn’t my strong suit. The result? Pain. Regret. Smooth-ish pits.
    My fingernails are now permanently short and slightly tragic after what feels like 47 rounds of dishwashing a day, and my eyebrows have gone completely feral—two tiny wilderness areas above my eyes.
    As for the nether regions… let’s just say we’re well past “tidy up” territory and edging into “could justify a hedge trimmer or a weed wacker.”
    Just when I thought personal maintenance couldn’t get any more adventurous, I finally convinced Neil to let me cut his hair. It had reached the point where “windswept” was no longer believable and “toilet brush” felt more accurate.
    Armed with clippers and a surprising amount of confidence for someone operating in a space the size of a cupboard, I got to work. Hair went everywhere—on the floor, on the bench, possibly in places we’ll be finding for weeks—but by the end of it, he looked significantly less like something you’d clean the loo with and more like a respectable member of society again.
    While I was on a roll, I tackled a few bonus features—namely the ear hairs (how do they grow that fast?!) and what can only be described as a committed monobrow situation. There’s something oddly satisfying about a good tidy-up… especially when it’s not your own.
    Motorhome life: where romance is alive and well, it just occasionally involves grooming each other like slightly judgmental chimpanzees.
    Ah, the glamour of the open road 🤣    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Otago

    April 27 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our next stop (cheers to the NZMCA App) was Taieri Mouth, where the Taieri River spills out into the Pacific. We took a gamble on a POP site run by a delightfully quirky local who lives right on the reserve. His place—complete with an abandoned house now claimed by rats, and a collection of well-loved (read: falling apart) commercial fishing boats and vehicles—had plenty of character. He hooked us up to power for a small donation, and along with his cute dog Charlie, made it a memorable stay. The beach walks alone made it worthwhile.
    Next was Dunedin—my old uni stomping ground. The NZMCA park there was fantastic, so we settled in for three nights and caught up with my childhood friend Cathy (we go all the way back to Pukekohe!) and her husband Paul. Such a lovely full-circle moment.
    We also discovered Waikouaiti Golf Course—perched above the ocean with stunning views and an equally good beach for walking.
    But the absolute highlight? Moeraki. We stayed at Red Barn by the Sea, an excellent POP with flat gravel sites and power for just $15 (perfect timing—our batteries were struggling!). It was only a short stroll to the famous Moeraki Boulders and the café. The beach was breathtaking, the boulders incredible, and I managed to snap some of my favourite photos of the trip.
    While we were there, we visited the Moeraki Lighthouse, spotted seals and their pups, explored some caves on a bushwalk, and topped it all off with lunch at the Moeraki Tavern.
    Definitely one of my favourite stops so far.    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    The Catlins

    April 22 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Neil has gently pointed out that it’s probably time I added another chapter to this blog… so here we go.
    Our first stop after Wallacetown was a wee place called Fortrose — and what a find it turned out to be. We parked right on the beachfront and were treated to the most stunning views, morning and night. I added a few more treasures to my ever-growing stone collection, including a beautiful carnelian agate. Now all I need is to track down a rock tumbler to polish them up! Neil, however, is not quite matching my enthusiasm for this new hobby…
    The Catlins is just breathtaking — so much so that we’re really only skimming the surface as we hop from spot to spot. We spent a night at Slope Point, the southernmost tip of the South Island, parked at a lovely flat freedom site right on the estuary. Getting there, though, was a bit of an adventure. The NZMCA directions weren’t entirely spot-on, we missed the turnoff, and promptly got ourselves well and truly stuck. Thankfully, a very kind farmer came to our rescue and pulled us out — the South Island’s reputation for friendliness is absolutely deserved.
    In between all of that, we’ve been stopping off at a few of the Catlins’ waterfalls and taking our time on some beautiful bush walks, with native birds providing the soundtrack. Honestly, it’s pretty special wandering through that lush greenery with birdsong echoing all around — one of those simple pleasures that really sticks with you.
    We also stopped in at Niagara Falls (clearly named by someone with a great sense of humour!) for coffee and a bite to eat. While there, we met some lovely locals, one of whom suggested we try the now-closed Curioscape campsite at Curio Bay. What an incredible spot — private little bays tucked between hedges of native flax. While we were there, we also got to see the famous petrified forest. At first glance it just looks like a scattering of big rocks, but when you take a closer look you can spot the tell-tale wood grain in some of them — such a cool thing to see. The whole place had us wondering why on earth it had closed (Google filled in that story later). We half expected a knock on the door telling us to move on, but it never came.
    Next stop was Papatowai DOC camp — another great place to settle in for the night.
    Today we made our way to Owaka, which has a fantastic little souvenir shop run by a genuinely lovely owner. Not only did he point us toward a few must-see spots, he even lent us his binoculars. Armed with those, we headed off to Jack’s Blowhole, stood around for half an hour in the rain and cold hoping to spot yellow-eyed penguins… no luck. Then we nearly shook the motorhome to pieces on a road better suited to an amphibious vehicle while trying to find some sea lions we’d spotted earlier… also no luck!
    Cold, damp, and slightly bedraggled, we’ve now parked up behind what might be the oldest and grottiest yacht club I’ve ever seen — but it sits on the most picturesque stretch of the Catlins River and lake, so no complaints really.
    The motorhome currently smells like wet dog, and we’ve got enough dirty washing to rival a laundromat… but honestly, we’re as happy as pigs in mud.    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Riverton to Invercargill

    Apr 14–19 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    As much as we loved our time with Gary and Sharon, it was time to venture a little further into the lower South. Riverton certainly gave us a send-off—our last night and morning delivered the full package: heavy rain, hail, thunder, lightning, and wind. We were ready to move on… though slightly wary of what the next few days might bring.
    Invercargill was next, and we’d been given very clear instructions—Fat Bastard pies were non-negotiable, along with a visit to the transport museum.
    We parked up at the NZMCA site, which turned out to be a real gem. Despite being in an industrial area, it sits right alongside the estuary, with a beautiful walking and cycling track—and even a prime viewing spot for the aurora australis. And incredibly, we were lucky enough to see it!
    We’d planned to stay three nights but ended up staying four, partly thanks to Neil’s dressing change appointments. The dogs were in their element, enjoying long walks and even a 15km bike ride, though the weather did its best to limit our adventures.
    The pies absolutely lived up to the hype, and Neil thoroughly enjoyed the transport museum… while I opted for a trip to the dog park instead.
    On our final day, a quick stop at Mitre 10 turned into something a bit special—we met a lovely couple who invited us to stay at their place in Wallacetown. We took them up on it and ended our time there with a really nice evening and a relaxed morning.    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Tuatapere

    April 13 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After a slow, easy start to the day, we headed back to Gemstone Beach to gather a few treasures for our friend Jude back in Tauranga. From there, we made our way into Tuatapere and settled in at Tui Base Camp—such a lovely, flat grassy spot tucked between hedges that made it feel private and peaceful.
    We couldn’t resist stopping at the café for coffee and a bite to eat (hands down, the best caramel slice ever), and picked up some of the famous Tuatapere sausages for later.
    With the weather on our side, we took the dogs out for a wander and stumbled across a beautiful bush walkway leading into the Tuatapere Domain. The sound of tūī singing overhead and fantails dancing around us made it feel pretty magical. Along the way, we found blackberry bushes—thorns and all—and gathered a generous haul, surprised to see wild mint growing alongside them.
    We finished up by the river, where the dogs had the time of their lives splashing and swimming.
    Back at camp, I turned our foraged berries into a small pot of blackberry and apple jam while Neil actually sat still long enough to read a book—rare enough to be worth mentioning!
    Another fantastic Southland day!    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Riverton/Monkey Island, Orepuki

    Apr 8–13 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We absolutely loved our time at Garston Hops, but we were ready to explore more of Southland. We spent two nights in Riverton, parked on the huge back lawn of our new friends Gary and Sharon (we met them at Garston Hops—fun fact, Gary was the Mayor of Southland from 2013–2022). Their property overlooked the estuary, with stunning views and beautiful sunsets and sunrises.
    On our first night, Gary cooked us a delicious pork roast—such a treat not having to cook for a change!
    We then headed about 20 minutes up the coast to Monkey Island. The freedom campsite was perfect, with sea views and decent long-drop toilets. The dogs loved the beach, and we enjoyed how much the scenery changed with the weather. We stayed there for two nights before moving just a couple of minutes up the road to Orepuki and the famous Gemstone Beach.
    After collecting around 3.5 kg of gorgeous stones, we parked up at the local tavern. Between rain showers, we took the dogs for a walk, then settled in for a lazy afternoon in the motorhome. We finished the day with a lovely dinner (whitebait sandwich for Neil and pizza for me)—and even scored our first drinks for free!    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Garston Hops. Harvest volunteering

    March 17 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Well… the last 3 weeks have been something else 😅
    We’d had this volunteering trip planned for about 18 months, but honestly—nothing prepares you for the reality once you’re in it!
    I ended up being one half of a two-person cooking team, taking turns doing evening meals for 35 people (yes… 35 😳), plus I somehow became the sole organiser of FOUR smokos a day—two for each shift. Let’s just say there was always something to prep, cook, or clean!
    Neil was meant to be in charge of keeping all the vehicles and machinery topped up with diesel… but of course it didn’t stop there. He also installed 6 lights in the eating area, 4 floodlights, split the lighting circuit in the office, added 4 power points, put in 4 security cameras, and almost got a fan into the shed—though that nearly cost him a thumb 😬
    We’ve learned so much—not just about hops, but farming in general. You really come away with a whole new appreciation for the work that goes into the food and produce we all take for granted.
    And the people… honestly, some of the most amazing humans. We’ve made some really special connections.
    We even managed to briefly get away and enjoy some time with family in Wānaka, and went to the Warbirds Over Wānaka airshow—which was pretty special ✈️
    Southland is absolutely stunning—the scenery is just breathtaking. We’ve made some beautiful memories (mostly 😂), and it’s definitely been an experience of a lifetime.
    Also… who would have thought two ex-Sallies would end up working in the beer industry?! 🍻    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Week 2

    March 15 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Week 2 of our big 11-week motorhome adventure… and things got a little dramatic.
    Just 10 minutes out of Ashburton on SH1 — BANG!
    A huge explosion followed by the most horrifying metallic screeching noise. The motorhome started swerving all over the road. I yelped and watched as my amazing husband wrestled with the steering wheel, doing everything he could to bring the out-of-control vehicle to a stop.
    Eventually he managed to pull us over on the side of busy SH1.
    I looked at him and said one word: “Tyre?”
    The smell of burning rubber was overwhelming.
    After sitting there in stunned silence for a few seconds, we both climbed out to inspect the damage… and it wasn’t pretty.
    The tyre was completely ripped to shreds.
    The plastic moulding over the wheel had been torn off entirely.
    Looking back down the road — even in the fading twilight — we could see a trail of debris marking exactly where we’d come from.
    I carefully retraced our steps and gathered up whatever pieces I could find. To my surprise, one of the items in the debris field was one of our click-clack containers from inside the motorhome! Turns out the blowout had also ripped a hole through the bottom of one of the cupboards.
    With nothing else we could really do… I cooked dinner (blue cod from sister Carol!)
    It felt incredibly strange doing something so ordinary while sitting in a damaged motorhome on the side of the highway, not quite sure how we were going to get out of the pickle we’d found ourselves in.
    Neil called the AA and they came out, but unfortunately they couldn’t help us on the spot. So we ended up spending the night right there on the roadside, waiting for Bridgestone to come in the morning.
    Despite the odd angle of the motorhome and the constant rumble of big trucks flying past, we actually slept surprisingly well.
    This morning the tyre situation was sorted, and we’re now back on the road again — heading to Queenstown for a brand-new tyre before continuing on to Garston, where we’ll be volunteering on a hops farm for the next two weeks.
    https://www.garstonhops.co.nz/

    Adventure, right? 🚐    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Wellington

    Mar 9–14 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Wellington Stopover
    We spent six days in Wellington, mostly in Lyall Bay and Kilbirnie. Neil was installing a system for Silone Collins, the officer at the Kilbirnie Salvation Army.
    While he worked, the dogs and I spent plenty of time at the beach. As they played and made new doggy friends, I discovered a new obsession — collecting sea glass. It’s like treasure hunting on the beach!
    We also caught up with my daughter Ella, wandered around the Wellington CBD, and soaked up the unique vibe and atmosphere that makes Wellington such a cool city.
    On our last night we stayed with our good friends Bronny and Mark and celebrated their engagement. The dogs had a great time getting to know their goldendoodle, Maui.
    Our Bluebridge ferry left at 3am, so I had a nap on the floor while Neil did some work on his computer. As we left Picton, we were treated to a beautiful southern sunrise.

    Next stop on Neil’s on Wheels… where the scenery is stunning and the next minor disaster is probably just around the corner!    Read more

  • Neil's on WheelsThe South Island TourTraveler

    Kai Iwi Beach

    Mar 6–9 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Kai Iwi Beach Holiday Park (Whanganui)
    Our gorgeous friend Karen is about to turn 60, and unfortunately we won’t be around for the big day. Since it’s Taranaki Anniversary weekend and we were already travelling down to Wellington, it was a no-brainer to meet up with Karen and Mark here.
    Our friend Barney is here as well (sadly his beloved Jude is working so she couldn’t make it). We’re all parked in different parts of the campsite, so there’s been quite a bit of moving to and fro between motorhomes, but it’s totally worth it.
    We’ve got both dogs with us and they’ve been pretty good so far. The motorhome is now fully set up for the next 11 weeks and we’re really happy with how everything is working.
    Kai Iwi is a gorgeous holiday park with lots of permanent residents as well as campers. The beach is classic west coast North Island — black sand, piles of driftwood, and plenty of sea glass for the keen beachcomber.    Read more

    Trip start
    March 6, 2026
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