• snow storm and palms

    2 décembre 2019, Western Mediterranean ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Yesterday Mr. Brahim said we could have breakfast at 6 and indeed, we had a delicious meal with freshly crepe-like bred, the best we had so far. We went off and then suddenly it was raining and as we went up and up, we were driving under heavy snowfall! Wow! So cool. Luckily we had a lot of time and we could sneak our way up and down the pass without any incident. Hisham kept informing his friend about the conditions, he had clients to bring to the desert. Under heavy snow they close the pass and that would mean a drive all up to the coast to Agadir to get to where we were, a plus of 500-600km. So no wonder there is heavy construction going on, that road is essentiell to connect to south-east to Marrakesh. We crossed him when the pass was still open do he was really happy. A couple of minutes later there were big rocks on the street, probably just fallen down. Hisham stopped and he and Christoph with another driver went out to get them off the street, being located just after a turn that could have ended badly for a driver. We then stopped at a cooperative, those are financially supported by the state that (mostly) women can sell their crafts. We (had to) visited one yesterday who sold carpets. We are just not interested in carpets so it was a bit of an awkward visit, but not now: This cooperative sold Argan Oil. It is a tree endemic to Morocco and it has fruits that the goats like. That’s why they climb up those trees to est them. The fruit is them dried, peeled, then there is a core and after crashing the core there is the little flat thing where they press the oil out. Out of 90kg of fruits come 8-9kg of that flat things to get 1l of Argan Oil. It is then (that’s what they told us) milled by hand and a brown paste comes out of it. By putting a bit of water in the leftover gets solid amd they are formed as kind of disk (they reminded mit of big brown erythrocytes) and it seperates from the oil. The leftover fruit is given to the animals, the shell is used for heat and the brown big erythrocytes to ‘make to cows fat’. Haha. We had a nice coffee, shopped big time and then left in direction of the airport. We were good in time so we stopped at a local food place and had a delicious final moroccan dish. It was time to say good bye to Hisham. I am now sitting in the plane, we had a stunning sunset over the mediterranean with site in the French coast, an incredible sight on the alps including Mont Blanc and soon we will be landing and be picked up by Christophs mum.En savoir plus

  • drive drive drive

    1 décembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We skipped the camel ride and took the car right away. We had a wonderful good night’s sleep in our cozy sleeping bags and pillows. Very luxurious to have your own stuff with you. We walked up the dunes to see the sunrise, again, beautiful. Just to sit there in the sand and think of those days we got to spend here in that country, it fulfilled us with happiness. The way back to Ait Ben Haddou wasn’t the same: We would head in direction of the Drâa-Valley, where it is dates-land. So many palms, so green and yet so many contrasts with the brown-reddish rocks, just wow. Then we climbed up another pass through incredible rocks formations and we were amazed. As always. Oh and I forgot to mention di er place in K’nob, with a view on thag city and in company of a kitten. We drove and drove and we bought first quality dates and arrived late Chez Brahim, our last stay in Ait Ben Haddou. We took the opportunity to walk once again through that famous Kashbar. The last diner was in a cozy place and we had a lot of fruits for dessert. Maroccans don’t really have a dessert culture like we have after a diner so fruit it is for most places. The only places we had a ‘proper western desert’ was at the touristic places. We went then off to bed quite quickly because tomorrow we want to hit the road at 6:20am to head to Marrkesh without a rush and again taking another route.En savoir plus

  • desert, well dunes

    30 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Oh dear, that was one awesome day: It started with early breakfast at the hotel in the Dades valley and the Hisham took us to the look out of it: We were there with a lot of Spanish people. It seems Marocco is a dear spot for them, considering it is just next by, not so surprising. There are also quite a lot of Britain and also Chinese people. After some pictures we drove down the valley we saw now in daylight and we were delighted. It was beautiful. We had a coffee again at some place (Hisham pretends I am as addicted to coffee as him) and then headed to gorge ofThodra. Again, beautiful. We had lunch at a quite touristy place with standard food: There is Schnitzel and Fries, you can almost always have chicken lemon Tangerine and Maroccan salad. It’s very nice, some better then other. Unfortunately, when you have booked a complete trip one cannot really choose where to eat or said otherwise, I feel of more confusing the organiser then anything else. And food is nice (and you pay 3-5 times more of course). We headed to the dune El Cheibb, the most famous dune in Marocco. As often I only realized quite late that we booked a camel ride that would bring us to tents to spend the night near the dunes. I was ery sceptical, a bit scared to fall of that animal. But I had a very nice one, being the last of the caravan. Behind me was a baby camel. Very cute. We were ten people, the other all from Brazil. Christoph wasn’t as lucky as me, his camel acted strangely from the beginning making strange noises. We started to walk, funny sitting on one. I have no idea on how camels are made to have human on their back. It is even much more interesting when walking down the dunes since they slide down. Then you have to hold on. Christoph’s camel was probably either very bored (because I think camels look bored anyway) or/and hungry: It started to nibble at the saddle of the guy in front if him. The saddle contains straw and that camel was very insisting on getting that straw that it walked funnily and Christoph had to hold on real tight, me, too, because I had to laugh so hard. It was so funny! After that we walked up one of the dunes and had one of the most stunning sunset with some pink cloud action going on, I couldn’t believe the sight of it. Just awesome. Then we had shower in our berber tent ‘village’, some tea an then a delicious diner. After that we went star gazing again to end that incredible day.En savoir plus

  • da da dades

    29 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We could have continued to sleep for some
    more hours but at 7o’clock it was time to get up, pack our stuff and get breakfast. At around 8 we met Hisham, a 28 year old guy that is now our driver until we leave Marocco. Today’s plan was to drive up to a pass called Tichka (I think), then down to the Marocco-Hollywood called Ouarzazate, going to a roseoil/ -essence cooperative and then to the valley of Dades. Hisham was talking a lot from the beginning, very friendly and explaining a lot like why he didn’t like French tourists and also that he never generalizes.. So actually he mostly doesn’t like French tourists because they treat him as a servant rather then with due respect. Anyway, he speaks wonderfully English, French, Darija (Maroccan Arab) as well as Tamaziɣt, a berber language. Quite impressive. The journey was very interesting passing many little or bigger villages first the same way like we came from Marrakesh but then turning east taking the N9 to Tazentout. That road is one to remember. Firstly, it is so curvy you think you are on a roller coaster. Even more if you have Hisham as a (mad) driver. Puh. He rushed because he realized that we couldn’t visit Ait Ben Haddou on Monday, our flught being too early. So he suggested to do it today. Oh feel the rush, oh yes. Haiaiaiai. Breakfast stayed where it should. Before the adventurous drive up that pass we had a coffee break at a lovely place where we had the best coffee so far. There is heavy construction going on, they want to make that road straighter. They just make way through the rocks. Not as a tunnel but they kind of cut in half the thing. Impressive. The way down is already finished and yes, less curvy. You can still see the old road passing next to the mountain. As said, Hisham was drivingvery fast and shortly before Ait Ben Haddou he was stopped by the police and had to pay 300 Dirham (30€). A lot of money. He was not pleased. We had then diner with a view over that famous UNESCO World Heritage site since 1987. A very beautiful place with a lot of people watching possibilities. It is one of the hot spots to be in Marocco. We had a guide named Mohamed whose family still owns a house in the Kabash (fortified village). It is composed with houses out of mud and straw, approximately 70 families stayed there, 57 berber and 13 jewish families. Each caravans going from Marrakesh to Timbuktu made a break at this place. The last caravan passed 50 years ago. Families started to leave the old city to build a new one on the other side of the lake in the 50ies. Habitat is quite basic, it is difficult to get the water and there is still no electricity. Now the UNESCO doesn’t want thise installations. There are 4-5 families remaining in the old city and they have solar panels. Ait Ben Haddou (I like that I am able to write that name without looking it up) is got famous as a place where movies were shot: Gladiator, Bond was here and Angelina, too, for the Prince of Persia. It stays a beautiful place even though it is touristy and now almost a dead city. At the moment there i not enough water and restoration of the buildings is expensive. Let’s hope it will survive some other 1000years since the first mentioning of that place are around 1000. We then continued our way to the Dades valley, skipped the Rose-stuff, had fun while listening to music and driving through marvelous landscapes. Just wow. We are now at the hotel and we will leave again at 8 tomorrow to have a better look at that valley.En savoir plus

  • and down again

    28 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Last night we were only seven people in the refuge and only five sleeping in the dormitory of 20 which was very comfy. We were supposed to climb up another 4000m today, respectively starting with the lower one and Toubkal for today. But Brahim wanted to make sure we arrive on the top of Toubkal so he switched mountains. The german couple did the same as we did only in three rather then two days and they were a day ahead so they could tell us how the other mountain was. They told us it was icy and steep and they couldn’t reach the top. So Christoph and me decided to just go a bit in direction of the second mountain and then turn around and head down to Imlil again. It was again a beautiful journey, we had lunch at the same place as the way up, again everything in the sun. Back in Imlil at around 3 we had tea and said goodbye to Brahim. Then we did some washing in a special washing bag (it works very well) and were enjoying ourselves in the sun. What a wonderful trek that was! We now have another four days ahead and today we gonna know our driver and discover a bit more of that wonderful country with the incredible friendly people.En savoir plus

  • toubkal - three humans, four sheep

    27 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    So. Toubkal ahead. We started when everyone was up already. Many do this trek and this mountain in two days only: 1. day to the refuge, 2. day up to Toubkal and all the way down to Imlil again. Sporty. Even more if you think about acute mountain sickness. That’s way not all of the trekkers get to the top. We are the lucky ones and started only at 8 o’clock. The ascent was very, very steep and icy, the view splendid. We took breaks in the sun and were enjoying dried dates and figues, sugar boosters! After some more very steep and slippery passages where we would meet a lot of people descending already (more or less equipped and more or less confident. I was really sorry for some because, as said, ice and steepness, no good) , we were at point to turn left and take the final meters. What a view! And we were all alone! Well, four sheep and a lamb were with us, hungry and eager to eat the rest of peanuts and dates we had. They belonged to a guy in one of the villages, he was looking for them for a long time. So Brahim called him and said he would try to chase them down (with us :-) ). We stayed approximately one hour up there, enjoying the calm, the warmth, the view, the air, eachother and of course that incredibly schnuslig lamb. Then it was time for the descent. That was quite difficult, not as slippery as I thought, but still, I would have rather made another 900m up then going down. We had some action because, sheep being sheep they firstly wemt up again so a second guide with the last group of the day chased them down where Brahim was, then those animals didn’t went down but straight, there were cliffs and oh dear, that little lamb. Anyway with Brahim shouting from down the cliff up to the other guide that somehow also went to the cliffs to get the sheep to turn around. As proven again, not the most clever animals but sweet ones. We all arrived down safely at around 2pm. Then we had the plan to take a shower. Shower is for free and with warm water. So far, so good. But there are two inconveniences: The dirt (so one of us had to play cloth rack while the other was showering) and the smell there. Oh dear. I am not picky but that was challenging. We had a lot of laughs and finally we were clean and warm. The next thing to do was filtering some more water. We had to either walk up the refuge to goto the river - or find the end of the ‘pipe’. We found it and after some pumping we had 4.5l of drinking water. Very cool. After all those things we had a snack with freshly made kind-of-pancakes, they were delicious. For diner we had fries, yummy. After diner we played dice with Brahim and he had a good hand, he won.En savoir plus

  • up we go!

    26 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    ooooh, we were so looking forward to start iur little trek: Today we had to walk to the refuge at 3220m above sea level. Since we would come back after to nighrs to the Imlil lodge we could leave some stuff there. Still, we had a lot. Christoph had a lot of fancy stuff like water filter, solar panals, lights, we had our own matresses, war sleeping bags, anyway, just a lot. Luckily a nice mule would carry that up for us. We only had our day pack with already filtered water from yesterday (to use a bit less plastic and honestly, it is quite cool to be able to do get your own drinking water with a ceramic filter). We were lucky with the weather and started around nine-ish. In the village of Brahim we met some other trekkers that haven’t known that everybody needed a guide to go up Mount Toubkal. One or two years ago two women were killed in a remote place in the area. Since then there is the obligation of a guide. Some said it is just to make money and not for security - but even then, it is not that there are many jobs here so at least money comes to the valley. The guide-less trekkers were quickly equipped with one and the price was quickly set and off they went, too. We walked on a very wide track, easy going up to the lunchplace at 2300m. There is a white stone which is a holy place for the muslim so quite popular to go there. Now there were also some houses were they would sell food and souvenirs. After lunch we continued our trek up and arrived at the refuge at around 4. Why hurry; up there not much to do. We met the German couple again that went up to Mt. Toubkal today. We went to our dormitory and settled in. Thanks to the stuff we brought (or better Christoph) it looked cozy and inviting. After diner we went outside watching stars. Fabulous!En savoir plus

  • warming up

    25 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Today we got up at 8, had breakfast (some yoghurt, bread and egg) and met our guide for the next few days: Brahim. Very nice man. After packing our lunch bag we followed him up, up to a summit at approximately 2700m, in the beginning in the shadow and then quickly in the sun. Brahim explained us, that yesterday’s driver was the boss if Toubkal guide, the company our agency works with. Even though there is a bit of tourism here, a lot of poeple are unemployed. There are no jobs here and there is no spci security here. Now is off season and the tours are given one after another to the around 20guides. In winter there are ski tourers that can reach a couple of 4000m summit in little time. Up on todays summit we could see a telecabin station at around 3500m. In the summer many come to climb up Mt. Toubkal, like we are planning Rhere are also 5 day trips around the high atlas. It would be way more busy in summer. Sleeping is also possible at families, here are berber. There are three different region where they live and therefore also speak different languages. It isn’t a written language but they made some efforts to change that so it is easier to preserve it. Brahim speaks one berber language, arab, french, english and some german. And maybe some more, I’ll find out. Impressive. Looking forward to talk a bit more to him the nexr days. Today was just marvelous, the colors are amazing. We had lunch at the pass and then walked down again. All in all a perfect day. Back at the gite we had tea, shower and after a delicious diner we went up the rooftop and warched the milkyway. Cinema at its best.En savoir plus

  • imlil

    24 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We had a wonderful good night sleep, I even didn’t hear the Muezzin. After a delicious breakfast we headed again to the city, which looked differently because it was warm and sunny and just wonderful! At midday a driver picked us up in a fancy landrover and brought us to Imlil, that is already at 1880m altitude and at the foot of the Atlas mountain. It was a marvelous drive and we arrived at a Gite that is (again) is beautiful. We were directly brought to the rooftop for lunch with salad marocco style and a lentil dish. Delicious. Some mint tea and oranges for dessert, we are in heaven. We went strolling around the little village, had a coffee and now I am sitting on the balcony in t-shirt and enjoying the sunny evening. What else to ask for!En savoir plus

  • maroccoooooo

    23 novembre 2019, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Woooopwooop! Another trip ahead and this time with Christoph, my boyfriend. We are heading to Marocco for a trek and some time in the desert, very looking forward to it! We got up very early to take the first train to Geneva airport. We had coffee and observed the planes and then off we went! We were picked up at the airport by a driver and were brought in front of a hospital. We had then to walk through very narrow streets to our riad. A beautiful one, even though the owner said it would be more lovely by good when good weather. Indeed, it was raining and misty. We didn’t care, hat a wonderful lunch and went off to discover that exciting city. You can really get lost in those souk, the market with narrow streets. It is huge. We stopped at the Maison de la Photographie, had a coffee on the rooftop and walked back to our lovely riad. Skipping diner we were in bed quite early and very looking forward for the next days!En savoir plus

  • flying home

    26 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We met with Rebecca, Karin and the 2 Martins for breakfast and then Anya picked us up to drop us at the airport. We have quite a journey in front of us: leaving Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy (that is the real official name) at 1pm, arriving in Moscow at 1pm, leaving it at 6:25pm and arriving in Zurich at 9pm, all somehow the same day but with 10h of time difference. All that with some good company since are seven taking more or less the same flights. All in all: Kamtchatka and this whole trip including Saint Petersburg and Moscow with my parents has been exceptional, there are no words and I cannot express how grateful I am for it.En savoir plus

  • avachinsky

    25 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Avanchinsky! 2741m high and beautiful with a lake of lava stuck in the crater, very unusual and with fumeroles and a view on the pacific and the avacha bay, just marvelous. And it was, just not until the very top for me. But from the beginning. We, that means the ones not going to Kuril lake today as in Marcel&Laura, Rebecca&Martin, Daniel, Timon, mum and me would get up at around 5:30, breakfast at 6 and then off we were at 7. Under a bit of fog but otherwise a freshly powered Volcano in sight with another one next to it we started our walk. It was wonderful. Just not my knees. They already didn’t like at all the going down I did and today they even hurt on the way up. It got worse and I know one shouldn’t think about the way down on the way up but knowing I had in total 1800m of going down I was a bit worried. Even more that I had already taken some pain killers and they didn’t work. We had a break at about 2000m and I actually decided to try it to the top but when we got into the snow field it was just painful. So I said I would turn around. I was so disappointed. Even more that Anya had to come with me since Vitaly didn’t want my mum (she decided to turn around, too) and me going down on our own because of fog. Although it was quite busy with lots of people going up and down so we were sure to be fine but Vitaly is so worried about our security that Anya had to come with us. Then the group left was one with different speeds and they now had to get all up - or all turn around in case. I felt bad. The walk down was pleasant when also quite painful but as we got the news over the walkietalkie that they all reached the summit I was relieved. We took our time going down, enjoying the gorgeous view, me still twisted if it was the right decision. Giving up not being an option normally. Being down we had a coffee and mum and me played some Yazzy waiting for the others to arrive. They did, quite later then expected because of heavy fog and a even more difficult descent. They were so tired but so happy to have been up there. The pictures looked like from another world. Just wow! We got back to our last hotel next to the airport and on the way I saw the old simple high buildings people live in and I thought that my ‘struggle’ with going up or not that volcano was just banal and I made peace with my decision. I also realized I don’t deal that well when I don’t achieve something I set the goal to, and luckily it isn’t something that happens to me often. Anyway at the hotel we met the others which had a gorgeous day as well with a lot of bears and salmons. There was big confusion about when and how we go to the sledge dog thing and in the end we got there. And actually it was amazing. There was a dance and some singing from indigenous people and it was in a wonderful place on a beautiful evening and we were so sorry that we were late. We had diner at ones family’s sledge dog shelter. They have 60 of it and they lived all up north until 2-3 years ago. They are always taking part of the big sledge race in March, 1500km with 14 dogs. It takes them approximately 21 days. They have frozen fish for the dogs to eat. Last year one guy from Moscow won and it is something they don’t want to be repeated next year. The daughter told as a lot of stories and it was just a fabulous evening to end that adventure. Vitaly somehow disappeared but I think saying goodbye is not his. We were so lucky to have him as a guide. We also said goodbye to some of the groups that either leave Kamtchatka later or go to somewhere else at another time. It is amazing how you get to like the people you are with for two weeks. As said, I’ll miss them.En savoir plus

  • hours of games under the rain

    24 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today bad weather was announced and it didn’t disappoint us: rain the whole day. I didn’t mind it, we were in a hut, we were warm and I had a lot of playing buddies. And that was what we did. We played all day long and it was fabulous. I will miss those people!En savoir plus

  • on the way to avacha

    23 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We had again a late start and after breakfast we gave our tipps away. Rebecca did that wonderfully and we all think they were happy about it. Even Larissa, our awesome cook that is only happy with us when we eat everything she serves us, took out her phone and took some pictures. We drove first to the supermarket where we got again our delicious coffee, to our disappointment it was another guy, that one being very motivated and efficient. We then headed to the Avachinsky volcano where we made ourselves comfortable in our huts. I am sleeping in a dorm with mum, Daniel, Rebecca and Martin, Walter and Christine, the Austrian couple. We went for a, I quote Vitaly, a little walk of 2h where we wouldn’t need water or backpack. That walk was up to the camel hill, created after an eruption in ‘45 (?) where the lava would come out like toothpaste and not flow but get stuck in place. We could climb up one of the camle hill which was only 300m of ascent. We started in fog and up there it suddenly cleared up and we could see until the Pacific. Wonderful. Even more since bad weather is predicted for tomorrow so the one going to Kuril lake won’t be able to climb up Avachinsky. After diner we had another round of cards and up we went to bed.En savoir plus

  • rest day

    22 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    After a looooong good nights sleep the day started at ten and an hour later we were off to some waterfall. With an easy walk first through bushes and then through snow we reached our goal under bright sunshine. It was supposed to rain. (We tried not to imagine the weather at Gorely.) Anyway it was a very relaxed and pleasant excursion where we ended thanks to Timon at some hot springs where we had a nice view on the valley. We had to climb 182 stairs to get there, mum counted. Back at the hotel we had lunch and then some of us stayed a bit longer and saw Vitaly, who did not eat lunch, cleaning the tents. We asked Anja to ask him if we could help and we told her to tell him that it would make us really happy if he let us help. We knew that he would say no otherwise. That convinced him and so Martin, Rebecca, Matthias, mum and me cleaned for 1.5h those tents. I have no idea how much time it would have taken him to do that alone. The other members were busy doing other stuff. Anyway, the cleaning water was very brown and Vitaly said we took some Mutnovsky with us. I was glad we could help. After that we had a long bath in the pool. Life can be wonderful. After shower Rebecca passed by. She and her husband Martin took care of the tipping business and created envelopes for each of our crew member. They did that wonderfully and it looks very personal. Since Christina and probably also Yvgeny will quit us tomorrow we will give it to all them tomorrow. The plan will be to leave when we are ready, to go for groceries again and then to the Avachinsky base camp. The weather forecast is not good for wednesday, the day that was planned for the ascent (of 1800m...) but thursday, our reserve-day look way better. Some want to go to Kuri lake to see the bears by helicopter. So we had to decide if we want to let the option open for the lake or the climb. Mum and me decided to try the volcano since it would be another 600€ each and we were not sure about to go or not in the first place and climbing up volcanoes is why we came here. So hopefully we will be lucky either wednesday or thursday for volcano number 4!En savoir plus

  • fifty shades of grey

    21 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    The alarmclock went already after 6h of sleep but we were all punctual at breakfast at 8am. Vitalys suggestion was to go to Gorely volcano today since tomorrow the weather will be even worse. So at 10 we were ready for another climb with hopefully a glance into a crater with a bright blue lake of sulfur. We were optimistic but unfortunately the weather was rather foggy then sunny. Anyway in a good mood and much motivation we started to climb up. It was already windy in the beginning. Like right into the face that wind. It got steeper and windier, you really had to be careful not to fall because of wind. The ascent wasn’t that long, 6km in total with 800m, but that wind! It came in gushes and it was quite adventurous. We reached the top after 1.5h and we saw - nothing. Nothing at all. Nix, nada, zilch. Just grey in grey. Luckily the wind gusts were coming in the front so there was not such a big risk to fall into that boiling water. We wanted to have some lunch up there but the weather conditions got worse, the winds stronger, so Vitaly rushed us down at some point. And that was adventurous. My mum fell once because of the wind and all others were struggeling. We almost ran down that volcano. Still some groups headed the other way, some in sneakers. We did not envy them. Down again we had something to eat and up we went in the truck and back to the hotel. Shower and hot bath awaited us, wonderful. Since that night was not planned at the hotel and theoretically we could have stayed in tents we have to pay for that night, worth every rubel. Diner was delicious as always and for the first time we played cards. Again, what a day!En savoir plus

  • muddy bear wind

    20 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    What a day, yes, I repeat myself but today qualifies for that. So since we wished for it we got up at 4, had again delicious breakfast at 4:30 and at 5:15 we started under a beautiful morning sky in direction of the crater of Mutnovsky volcano. We were going at a good pace, unfortunately as predicted into fog. At some point it started to drizzle or even rain. We had strong winds but made our way to the top after only 5hours which was, as Vitaly said, the fasted group climbing up. It was approximately 12km wifh 700 height difference under rather difficult conditions with lots of snowfields. Those were as Vitaly promised way less difficult and exhausting as the one at Talpachik. Up there on the krater we saw not much. Mutnovsky means the foggy, blurry one in Russia. We still went down the crater and there were big holes with Sulfur coming out, stinking and being bright yellow, very impressive but unfortunately also a bit cold up there. We didn’t stay that long since the fumes out of those fumeres (my valcanic vocabulary increases with each day) are toxic (and it stinks of rotten eggs of course) and the cold so we started our way back. My shoes were already soaked. Completely soaked. I was already ok going up Gorely volcano the next day with a little pond around the feet. Oh, I forgot! On n the way up, suddenly someone screamed ‘BEAR’! And indeed! There was a male grizzly wandering around and watching us at a distance of around 150m! AMAZING! I was happy: Now everyone of the group has seen one and more importantly, the bear wasn’t interested in us, we didn’t see him anymore on the way. Our way down was wet and wetter but we made good ways, the ambience was good. Strong winds did almost blow us away. Back at the camp our caring guides were so nice to open the truck and put on the ventilation so soon after it looked like a trekking shop and sauna with very wet stuff. We met at the eating tent for tea and coffee. The winds got stronger and stronger so after diner we had to pack everything up but the sleeping bag and the matress in case we had to leave camp because of the wind. We had a meeting to discuss if we wanted to try to stay or pack up and to go to another camp with maybe less wind - or the hotel. We decided to try. The tents are not storm proof so they can get flat. Rebi and Martins was already flat so they changed the camping spot. While that Matthias and me were still in the eating tent but suddenly its fixation with soil and heavy rocks was not working anymore and so we risked that tent to collapse with us inside. We got out in time and tried to fix it, called Vitaly but obviously with that tent not safe anymore there and some more flat tents to come where you just can’t sleep in Vitaly decided to move. For us not stressful, our guides are so caring and professional and our team was showing some amazing spirit, we all helped eachother in the rain and wind, got all packed up, had a even more crowded truck and 1.5h later, at around 10pm, we were on the way back to the accomodation that is just luxury. The office was ok to pay that night at the hotel for us. I doubt that we could have set up the tents so easily in the same night since many of the sticks are, let’s say, not that straight anymore and the tents wet and dirty. We had a drive of approximately 2h and we arrived all safely at midnight at the hotel. There is even a dry room where we could put our gear, just perfect. We were in bed at around 1am, thinking of our crew that cleaned the truck and took care of everything else. Incredible what they did and still do for us. Vitaly was so sworried about us, I would like so much to tell him that he does an amazing job and that we are very ok with all his decisions and so on, but as said, only bits of English are understood. So mum and I try to show our happiness about this trip with good mood and happy faces and swiss chocolate for him. I mentioned already once, but living all that with mum is amazing. Unfortunately we have one person that is on one hand very appreciative when he has a good time amd thankful and funny, he has a really goid heart but when something is happening that is not at his gusto, he shows it loudly and clearly. Happened as we arrived at that nice hotel the other day he said that he booked adventure and not that, when we arrived at the Geothermic site he was telling to Christina that this place was shit (his words) and the same this evening, he thought that we will just hang around at the hotel and no alternatives and he was not ok with that. We tried to calm him down and wait for Vitaly. In my not much experience with such trips is that the guides always try to get us the best deal so most of us were not worried and well, who can change the weather. But as said, most
    of the time he is very cool and caring. Fortunately Vitaly does not get a lot what he is telling. Anyway, the program for tomorrow is not yet set, probably the waterfalls and Gorely - after all! - the day after. Honestly, who cares, we are all safe, not hurt, dry, fed and hydrated, a comfortable good nights sleep ahead and now we have a good story to tell, lucky us!
    En savoir plus

  • again a lot of snow

    19 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Aaaah, two nights in a row in a bed is pure luxury and breakfast was at nine, what do we want more. We packed all up and were ready for Mutnovsky and Gorely. We climbed or rather our sixwheel truck climbed up the road up to Viluychinskiy pass. What a beautiful view. We are so lucky. Down again the road to the Mutnovsky camp. Because of too much snow and water we weren’t able to reach it without risking being stuck so Vitaly decided to go near a Geothermal station. It would just double tomorrows hike to the crater, instead of 12km we had 24km. Vitaly reassured us that it wouldn’t be as difficult as Talbachik since we just had 700m of climbing. When our tent was ready and the fridge in the snow for the beers, too, we headed for a walk with a big surprise as there was a lot of geothermal action going in with mudholes and sulfur and just beautiful plants around it, we were enchanted. After diner we discussed tomorrow’s plan. Vitaly wanted breakfast at 7, starting time 7:30 with a time to the crater of 7h, then down 6h so being back at around 20h. We asked if he was ok to leave earlier because bad weather was predicted at around noon. In a nicely democratic vote we could decide to start either at 4, 5 or 6. Like in a good compromise the majority opted for 5. So breakfast at 4:30, very cool. Now a night in the tent (I made a little ditch around the tent in case of rain) the wind is very strong but I think we will be very fine, heavy rocks are holding it in place. (Hopefully!) I am so looking forward for tomorrow!En savoir plus

  • we expected tents, we got luxury

    18 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we had loooooong hours in the truck to travel south. 600km were ahead of us. After a excellent good nights sleep in the bed and a hair wash we were ready for four nights in a tent, but there was a rumor that we would sleep in huts or even in a hotel as luxurious as the one we were in last night. Some things get lost in translation so we don’t always know what awaits us exactly but honestly I don’t care. Then there was a confusion about the last day as in how that day was an extra day in case we couldn’t climb the last volcano the day that was planned or if that day was just for relaxing, also, that day could be used for another helicopter trip to the Kurililake in the south where heaps of bears are. Mum and me decided to so it in case. As always, everything depends on the weather and we will see. Those discussions kept us busy for a while which was nice so the journey was a bit quicker. Some uf us slept, Iread 1.5 books. We had lunch again at Mil’kova and then we went to the airport where Daniel could pick up his luggage that got lost on the way to China - Russia. Everything, camera included, was still inside. Very cool. After that we went to a supermarket for food and we could stroll around. Mum and me got elastic bandage for our knees, some fruits and one delicious coffee at a little truck. The guy there was not very keen to work. After ordering the coffee he stretched first and he took his time. Luckily we had it since it took quite some time to buy and store up groceries so we arrived at the camp side quite late at around ten. As said, we didn’t know what to expect but no one expected what we got: Spacious double rooms with walk in showers, we even think we were the first guests. They started this resort in 2013 and they build additional houses. It isn’t finished yet but perfect for us anyway. We went all into the hot pool, all 15 of us. I have to say that our group is very very cool, it mixes so well, there are no groups, everyone sits with everyone and it is such a good ambience even arriving this late and having diner at eleven. We also have wonderful weather and everything is perfect other for some having a cold so there is not really a reason for bad mood but still, it is a really pleasant group. Not granted when you are 15 adults from so different backgrounds. And my mum is just awesome, I am so lucky to live, share and have such a good time with her.
    Tomorrow we will head to another tent camp, we hope, or Vitaly hopes to find a spot without snow for three nights with, fingers crossed, hopefully two successful volcano climbs!
    En savoir plus

  • esso, where the shower is

    17 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today’s plan was to leave between 8 and 8:30 for a long drive to Esso. We got up at around six, were allvery efficient with helping eachother bringing down the tents so that we were all set for breakfast even before seven. Again incredible what Larissa prepares for our meals. We run out of milk and cream but if that is our only problem then we gladly take it. We said goodbye to that wonderful landscape and went off the bumpy roads. Lunchtime was in a dried river bed where not so many mosquitoes come for lunch, too. Those tiny things are incredible. If you go for a pee into the woods you have stinges all
    over places you definitely don’t want them to have. Men having the same problem, btw. We arrived in Esso quite early after sveryone fell alseep in the truck after lunch. We had two hours before visiting the Ethnographic Museum and the Concert so we first enjoyed a shower, then a bath in the hot swimming pool and my mum was so kind and did laundry. The water of the washed socks needed three times changing. We took a lot of volcanic ashes with us. We strolled through the little village of Esso with 2000 habitants. It had electricity from hydra station and lots of warm water from hot springs. There are metal tubes in the bathroom for heating,
    you can’t touch them so hot they are and they hest uo the whole room. They are excellent in winter and of course for laundry but less appreciated when it is 28 degrees outside! The ethnographic Museum is a outdoor one with houses of the indigenous people. They have almost the same equipment and way of life like the Inuit - of course there was a lot of trading between all of those tribes. Interestingly some already during their life made their funeral dress with a hoodie on and when they died the hood was places on the face. There had also shamans, the last one lived until the 60ies. Of course they were forbidden during the Soviets. Nowadays only a couple of hundred people are indigenous. Their history was like the polynesians told and not written so a lot was lost during the time. After the Museum we went to a hall (not before some of us filled up their beer proviants for the next days) where we had e exclusive concert of a group called Nulgur (I think. I will look it up in the book, but we are at the moment in the bus to the snow valley and Christine, the owner of the book, is sleeping next to me. We are driving through very very dense forest, it is beautiful). Anyway, that concert and dance was magical. They showed us dances from different indigenous tribes, like the dance of the seagulls, the salmon, the reindeer. Oh, about animals, there are raindeers, moose (biggest animal in Kamtchatka with 1 ton), brown bear, wolverines (Vielfrass), Zobel (or something like that. They call it here the soft gold because if its precious fur. Btw, the whole leather making process was a womans job), lots of birds and fishes. The spectacle went for an hour and we returned to the hotel for a good nights sleep in the bed. I was so happy because for the first time here in Kamtchatka I felt really 100% good since I had a nasty cold since arriving here and my knees, that tries to make new records in swelling, got a bandage and I feel like I will be able to climb or rather get down the next three volcanos. I am so thankful. Now just the weather has to play along.
    En savoir plus

  • toasted

    16 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Having three days in a row sunny weather is unusual for here - we are a lucky bunch of people! After that day yesterday we slept in until 8:20, breakfast was at nine and around 10 we started for another trip to lava from 2012s eruption. It was again a splendid day with a lot of laughter, interesting conversations and heaps of information about volcanos. It is so sweet, Anja, one of the translator, has just been working for the company for some days and all information about volcanoes and the eruption she gets from Vitaly (pronouncements is on the ‘a’ not the ‘y’, second last vocal is pronounced in Russian) Anaway, all she has to translate is new for her, too, and she is very amazed and fascinated like we are and that is so good to see. She listens attentively and then says, oh wow, interesting and then translates. It is so co to see that also our guides have fun. Vitaly is amazing and takes very good care of us, showing us spontaneously alternative routes to go down one of the cones. He never could have done it before with tourists because of weather. We went also to a spot on the lava field where you could see lava two years ago. Nowadays it is still hot enough to toast some bread. Delicious. We only were out for three, four hours, enjoying those amazing views. We went in another gave under the lava, where the magna made is way out and became lava, too. Fascinating the different colors of rocks, those formations, the different weight of the stones. I can understand why studying volcanology. Back at the camp we had lunch and then we were sitting around, talking and then again having diner. Larissa is one amazing cook. I was seated next to Tony, the vet who specialized in birds. The most common disease birds have in Australia is Chlamydia. Not the one that is sexually transmitted that I know in humans but a genotype that birds have and is transmitted from bird to human (or bird to bird) per aerosol, tiny little particles in the air, and treated by doxycycline. Tomorrow we have gonna spend the morning in the car on the way to Esso. There we are looking forward to a shower before having another five nights in the tents and three volcanos to climb up! Lucky me!En savoir plus

  • snow. a heck of a lot of snow.

    15 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I can’t start again with what a day but it just seems so appropriated! We were punctual at breakfast for porridge (a salty one, not everyone’s taste, mine it was) and even more ponctual to drive to our starting point. Vitaly said it will be a long, hard day and he was right - but also an incredible fabulous one, shared with my mum was so special. The way up eas quickly through a snow field and those would be THE thing of the day. We crossed a huge lava field from 1975s eruption. Our group was, not surprising, a bit separated by the faster and the less faster. At some point we split and up we were those snow fields. They were a bit of a pain because you would break in until the knees or more quite randomly but hey, we had sun, it was a beautiful view and just wow! Additionally the nearer we were on the top, the wind came and blew my mum teice on the ground. All in all we made it almost all of us, two had to turn back earlier but still, very impressive. Up Talbačik is a huge crater with a depth of a couple of hundred meter. As it is often on top of things, they are not the most comfortable places to be so we startes the ascent. With the sun comes also melty snow and we were just even more breaking through and some of us really got to their personal physical limits. At some point it was real big fun because you could slide down the hill. Awesome. All in all we had a good group spirit and we made it down all safely and very happy. Back at the camp awaited us a delicious diner with sushi and a home made special fish soup from Larissa. I was lucky to eat my mums since she doesn’t like it. My mum rocked today. Completely. We walked 24km in total with an ascent of 1400m and with all those snowfields up and down it was even a bigger effort. Very very cool!En savoir plus

  • hot stones

    14 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    What a day. Again. The sunshine greeted us and the viee was splendid. It reminded me of Bhutan when it was the same situation. How lucky we were. Before breakfast mum and me quickly went home the small hill and had a gorgeous view of the surroundings. After a delicious breakfast we started with our monster truck in direction of the cones where the magna erupted from the 1975 eruption. We climbed it up and the colors were amazing. Vitaly explained a lot, he knows heaps about volcanos here. The scientist could predict the 75’s eruption a couple of days before so they could evacuate the village around. The ground up there is still hot, if you dig a bit deeper it is too hot to touch. Amazing, this after more then 40 years! After getting down again we had a delicious lunch and we continued to the dead forest, a forest that was covered with up to 20m ashes. The trees died because of the toxic air and they stick out as dried wood. At some places where the ashes weren’t that high the nature has taken slowly over already. Again impressive sight. Next station was a lava cave, also incredible. You have again this feeling of being a insignificant little blup in the big big universe imagining those forces that shows at such an eruption. I talked about that with Tony, the Australian. He is a vet and now does food for exotic animals. Very interesting. He teached me about animal poo, the different kind. In case you find poo that is white and there is fur inside it is from an animal that is obligatory carnivore. He also found an ulna of a little aninal, we supposed those were the little ground squirrel. He also showed some moose poo, that one is very light and has just fibers in them. Again, learnt a lot and poo is very informative! We ended the day with a debriefing about tomorrow, the ascent on the first volcano that will be probably in the snow. So we hope for sun and some dry feet!En savoir plus

  • magna, lava and co.

    13 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    After a delicious breakfast from Melissa we started at 9:20 in direction to the valcona. I guess at some point I will know the names. We are lucky, Marcel is very interested in them and explains a lot. Fir example what the difference between lava and magna is (lava is the outside-of-the-volcano-magna, more or less). We quickly left the good road to a bumpy one. It was very funny sitting in the wheels since bumpy is in another dimension there. We stopped at a lava-river from the eruption of 2011 that distroyed the road so instead of taking one if a couple of kilometers we had ten to do. But thanks to the good driver we had no problems at all. Lunch was on a ash field, very delicious and not under the rain, very cool. We arrived at our campside at around three-ish, we were shown of how to set up the tents (no rain!!!) and quickly we were about to get ourselves at home here for the next four nights. The tents are quite small, the big bags having a bit worries to fit in. Luckily there are three blockhouses that are a kitchen and a diner room at the same time where we can also leave the luggage. Perfect. We went for a quick walk where Vasily explained us more about the eruption of 1975. It took place in november and since there was a blizzard people here didn’t figure out what was going on. The magna also didn’t came out of the volcano like we would expect but found a way underground and came out twice of the ground, we will have a look there tomorrow. At one place the whole thing needed 72 days and at the other more then 470 days to cool down. Back at the camp we had tea, then diner and a briefing for tomorrow. We gonna visit the dead forest, the four cones that were formed at the eruption of 1975 and into some caves. Exciting!En savoir plus

  • russian sauna after long drive

    12 juillet 2019, Russie ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    8:50 rdv in front of the hotel. The big truck waited already and under steady rain our luggage was fixed on the roof of that monster truck. After some time we were tucked in and we drove off. With us a driver, a cook, Christina and Anja for translation and Vitaly, our chief master. During the drive he explained about the history of Kamtchatka, why esrthquake, how many volcanos (there are more then 200, 29 or 30 of them active, more on the eastern range then the western range (there onyl two)). First stop was in Miloko, a town 300km north of Petropalovsk, famous for pies. We had coffee and mum and I got a pie (oh, a rime 😊) for later. We continued our journey north until we had lunch around 2pm. We walked a bit around in town, we were five of us. I bought four apples and the guy gestures around and I had no clue until I understood that he tried to tell me that I hadn’t bought enough for all of us! Of course I couldn’t explain why not five but it was funny. By the way our group is very fun and we have a nice dynamic aready. The third stop was just very short and the fourth one at Kamtchatka river where they built a bridge over it in 2011 only, before it was a feeey in summer and in winter - no cars. If needed helicopter. We arrived at around 7:30 in a cute little village in a guesthouse with even cuter little houses for two and a russian sauna. Perfect. Afrer a walk we went seating for a round until the delicious diner was ready. We had a debriefing from Vitaly and we stayed for quite some togehter talking. I was tonight with Karin, Laura, Marcel and Walter, the latter is Swiss, has seen the world trough job and travel, for example he did Panamerica in 2.5years in the early 80ies, Galapagos included. Very cool! Now it is 11:30pm, alarmclock goes at seven for another long journey into the national park near the first volcano we wanna climb! I am so lucky!En savoir plus

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