Day 23 - AM - Negreira to O Logoso

Yesterday's walk could've ended disastrously. The late start, a 1.5 hour lunch break, inclines that made it hard to speed up, meandering pace early in the day, and the decision to go 8 km past the recommended stopping point meant I arrived at my destination after 7 pm when it was dark. I had started the day with only a half charged phone and it was down to 3% when I arrived. I should've stopped before 6 pm when it was still somewhat light out. Instead I had to walk through forests in the dark which was freaking me out. I made the decision to get off the recommended path and followed the road instead. The shoulder was really narrow so it was quite dangerous. I walked on the left shoulder so I could see incoming cars and held my headlamp in my hands so I could wave it around to signal to incoming cars I was by the road. All the drivers noticed me and would slow down or drive closer to the right shoulder to give me a wider berth.

I called Karl to keep me company while I walked for almost an hour in the dark. He kept me calm, reassured me, and helped me navigate by tracking my GPS location so I could conserve my phone battery by keeping the screen off. He was a lifesaver!

I was so glad and relieved when I finally made it to my albergue and so was Karl who was probably stressing even more than me!! I got the Pilgrim's dinner after checking in which included a lentil soup, pasta, homemade cake, and red wine. I dined with 3 others - a Polish woman from US, Peter from Czech Republic, and Matthias from Poland. Me and the woman were lucky to have the entire second floor to ourselves and slept really well with thick blankets and a heater.

Since I had gone an extra 8 km yesterday, I could afford to have a bit of a later start at 9am today after breakfast (eggs, bacon, bread, and coffee). I was glad I had breakfast at the hostel because the next cafe was 3 hours away at Bar Casa Victoriano where I had a chocolate croissant and orange juice.

The forecast called for rain around noon but it has mostly been a light mist which can still soak you through in an hour. I arrived in Olveiroa around 3:30 pm which was my original destination but decided to go a little further to treat myself to a private room in O Logoso which also looked like it had a stellar restaurant in town. As I walked through Olveiroa though, I was seduced by the delicious smells coming from a restaurant/bar. The place was packed and the only seating available was at the bar. I decided to stop and have lunch there and ordered their pork tenderloin and tiramisu. Once I am done eating, I should still have enough daylight to make it to my hostel well before 6pm.

I had lunch here:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/yHaRwkqNamvrhbWH6

I will stay overnight here:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/N3gU1BF4FReTN4ha9

Friends on the original Camino Frances I left told me they have been doing 30-40 km a day so they will reach Sarria by November 25th. I have booked my two buses back to Sarria to meet them there the same day. Then we can do the final 100 km together to reach the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.Read more