Day 23 - PM - Negreira to O Logoso

I arrived at my hostel at 5:30 pm. An older lady greeted me and even though she spoke no English, we were able to establish I'd stay for dinner. It seems I am the only pilgrim here and I would like to support her business so will stay instead of leaving for another restaurant as I had planned. I think I agreed to soup (sopa) instead of salad and fish instead of meat (carne) for 13 euros. She asked me what time I wanted to eat and I said around 7:30 pm so she will come knock on the door when dinner's ready in about half an hour.

Today's walk wasn't too bad despite the rain. It was cold at times but I just threw on my jacket, neck warmer, gloves and shoved my hands into my pockets to stay warm.

A nice hot shower after check in has warmed me up and I am snuggled in an extra thick blanket as I update this post.

There were very few pilgrim sightings. I saw 4 of them walking in the opposite direction because they may have started the Camino Finisterre from Finisterre and are going backwards to Santiago where I started or they may be on a different camino route - they all converge in Santiago de Compostela.

My room is nice with a double bed and private bathroom. I hope my hand washed clothes will dry overnight on the heaters!

She came and knocked on my door at 7:40 pm and invited me down the dining room. It was a large room with a long dining table and only one place setting which confirmed I was her only overnight guest. A large China cabinet proudly displayed photos of her beloved grandchildren and tableware and glassware and you could find toys peeking from under tables and behind sofas.

She asked me what I wanted to drink to start. I told her agua (water) but forgot the word for hot in Spanish so I made the motion of touching a hot stove and the sound of sizzling. She nodded comprehendingly and used her hands to show a big explosion. I thought maybe this was a volcanic eruption which is very hot and nodded enthusiastically.

.... Then she brought me sparkling bottled water instead which I just accepted lol.

Next, she brought me a large bowl of hot noodle soup and insisted I have seconds because poquito peregrinos (not many pilgrims). She was very attentive and checked on my eating progress every few minutes. I didn't want to insult her cooking by not eating enough so I ate much more than I needed to please her. I finished all the fish and half the potatos and was stuffed before dessert arrived. She gave me yogurt and ice cream for dessert options and I chose the latter.

I stared across the table out her expansive windows as I waited and as the dark abyss of the night stared back, I suddently felt very grateful I had relented and agreed to stay for dinner. Otherwise I would've had to walk into that cold, dark night for 12 minutes each way to get a hot meal. Instead I was sitting here in a warm room and tended to by a very kind host. I was enjoying a delicious, home cooked meal and she said bon provecho (bon apetit) every time she brought out a new offering.

After dessert, she inquired if I wanted coffee as well but I passed because I was soo full and just wanted to climb back into my warm bed. I used google translate and read to her:

"Gracias por una deliciosa cena y su calida hospitalidad. Que tenga una buena noche."

I am pretty sure I butchered the pronunciation but she was happy to hear these words and laughed out loud.

Translation is: Thank you for a delicious dinner and your warm hospitality. Have a good night.

I made sure to also tip her and she was doubly pleased for this.

I told her buenos noches one last time before heading back to my room to relax before bed.Read more