Day 24 - AM - O Logoso to Fisterra

I am packing and will be leaving today at 8 am. Today's hike is approximately 28 km to Fisterra. It is another 3.3 km to Faro de Fisterra to get to the 0 km marker and lighthouse which I will do either after I check in at my penthouse apt or tomorrow. There is a restaurant on the top of that hill with great views of the sunset. I should take 6 hours without breaks amd arrive around 3 pm if I take 2 short breaks and make good time. The route profile shows a steep decline so that may be a bit ambitious but we shall see.

It is still dark when leaving at 8 am as sunset is at 8:30 am today. It started to rain lightly and then pretty constantly as I left so I had to stop and put on all my rain gear. I didn't have to walk far to find a cafe for breakfast which was an omelette chorizo bocadillo and agua caliente. When I finished breakfast it looked like the rain had subsided so it had been a good time to take a meal break. I was the only pilgrim there but there were some locals hanging out at the bar. They looked to be hunters by their camo wear and were talking animatedly. Perhaps he was recounting a kill from that morning...

As I finished breakfast and paid, the owner inquired if I was going to Finisterre. When I affirmed this, she warned me there would be nothing open for the next 15 km or 3 hours so I purchased an apple and chocolate croissant to go. She also asked me in Spanish where I had stayed last night and she was surprised I had been in Logoso. The albergue is closed she said in Spanish. I told her I stayed in a private room and she replied, "Ah, privado!" How many pilgrims were there?? Just me - uno! And she nodded. "Poquito peregrinos," I stated and she agreed and said a bunch of things in Spanish which I did not understand. I have noticed any small attempt to speak Spanish is appreciated and you get better treatment or a warmer reception. I wish I had studied some Spanish before doing the camino again but I only had 2 weeks to plan this time.

It felt like both a short day and a long day. The first few hours passed quickly but the last half dragged on. I was eager to see the coast so pushed ahead even when I wanted to stop for food or take longer breaks. I finally took a nice break an hour from Finisterre to watch the waves lapping on the shore. The last 40 minutes of the walk left the highway behind and I walked on a path parallel with the coastline which was nice and serene.

I arrived in Finisterre and stayed pretty dry until the last 20 minutes. It began to rain out of nowhere and I got almost soaking wet within 5 minutes before I could even get my rain gear on. I don't know if having it on at the time would've helped because the wind was whipping it everywhere anyways. I'm just glad I got drenched at the end of my walk and not at the beginning because it felt freezing after that.

Someone met me at the apartment and offered to take my mochilla (backpack) for me but I politely declined. I regretted that when he told me there was no elevator (as usual) so I had to climb 4 flights of stairs with it lol

I was happy to see there was a bathtub - I've only seen one other bathtub this entire camino. I quickly unpacked, charged my phone and ran the bathtub to get warm. After a long hot soak, I felt much better.

I wanted to find a supermarket but they're all closed because it's Sunday! Thankfully I had some emergency food in my backpack - one chicken ramen I've been carrying for days, Karl's leftover surprise chocolates, and a protein bar the American sisters had given me 3 days ago. This will tide me over until the restaurants offer their dinner menu which is usually around 7:30 - 8:30 pm.

I'm happy to stay here for two nights because there no rush to get up and check out tomorrow. The skylights in this penthouse open up which would've been ideal in the summer. I hope it is clear enough to do some stargazing tonight and if the rain ends, it could be nice to open them to listen to the ocean.Read more