January 29 Queen Charlotte Sound

Twelve miles along the coves and bays of Queen Charlotte Sound, moving through rainforest, waterfalls, and endless blue-green water. A steep climb from Tawa Cove to start, then hours of quiet rhythm.

We passed summer blooms—hydrangea and bright orange crocosmia—and crossed footbridges that stitched the forest together. A side trail led us to the ancient Pu Hikaru Rimu Tree, more than a thousand years old. Touching it felt grounding, a reminder of time that stretches far beyond us.

By the shore we lifted rocks and watched tiny crabs scatter, chitons holding fast to stone. New birds appeared along the way—shag, silvereye, and an oystercatcher flashing its brilliant orange bill. Each bay felt like a slightly different world.

We arrived tired and happy at Punga Cove—beer on the deck, a hot shower, fresh fish for dinner. Asleep by 8, held by the quiet.

Nature did all the talking today.Read more