• Maree Crawford
  • Maree Crawford

Central Europe, Denmark, Mongolia, Hong Kong

Cycle Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia to Hungary then train/bus back. Fly to Denmark for family business. Then meet my 2 sisters for a horse trek in Mongolia before a few days in Hong Kong. Baca selengkapnya
  • Awal trip
    6 Juli 2026
  • From foggy Melbourne to cloudy Prague

    7–8 Jul, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I wake up to a foggy Melbourne. I have a wax appointment at Essendon Fields shopping centre. I then get the shuttle bus to Tullamarine International airport and check-in.
    The flight is delayed by about an hour due to the fog so we board around 4pm.

    I'm flying Singapore Airlines in Premium Economy. I thought I'd try that and see if it's better than cattle-class economy. It is!! Much more room and preferred treatment. Nearly as good as business but nowhere near the price!!!!
    I have about an hour layover in Singapore so pretty well get straight on the next flight to Munich. That is an overnight flight and I sleep!!
    From Munich it's a short flight with Lufthansa airlines to Prague.
    We get in very early. I have organised for the hotel to do a shuttle for me, which is great after such a long journey.
    It's too early to check-in so I give them my luggage and explore Prague on the Hop on, Hop off bus. The city is very pretty.
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  • Train, bus trip to Kutna Hora

    9 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    33 people met our guide Pavel at the Prague railway station and took 2 trains and a bus to Kutna Hora, east of Prague. There were Danes, a Lithuanian, US, Hong Kong, poms, Aussies ( me and a couple from Bargo, NSW), Canadian, Swedish.

    We called into the Bone Church (Ossuary)
    Then visited a beautiful complicated cathedral, St Barbara's. I'll do separate pages on these.

    It was a busy day, no time for free time on your own but a good day using public transport like a local.

    Kutná Hora’s silver mines fueled the medieval Czech economy, producing one-third of Europe’s silver.
    1260s Boom: The discovery of surface ore sparked a massive German silver rush, building Bohemia's second-largest city.
    Royal Mint: King Wenceslas II centralized all coin production at the Italian Court around 1300 to strike the trusted Prague groschen.
    Deepest Shafts: Medieval miners worked in brutal, pitch-black conditions, digging the Osel shaft down an unprecedented 600+ meters.
    Floods & Closure: The Hussite Wars and catastrophic tunnel flooding in 1541 paralyzed production, leading to the mint’s final closure in 1726.
    UNESCO Heritage: This immense mining wealth directly funded the town’s stunning Gothic architecture, including St. Barbara’s Church.
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  • The Bone Church

    9 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This church is amazing. Spectacularly bizarre but fascinating. It has 2 stories, the bottom story is where the bones are, the top story is the church bit.

    The Sedlec Ossuary (Bone Church) is a Gothic chapel containing the skeleton fragments of 40,000 to 70,000 people artistically arranged as interior decor.
    Holy Ground: A 13th-century monk scattered soil from Jerusalem over the cemetery, creating a highly coveted burial site.
    Mass Graves: The Black Death and Hussite Wars overwhelmed the cemetery, forcing the exhumation of thousands of skeletons into a chapel crypt.
    Artistic Creation: In 1870, the Schwarzenberg family hired woodcarver František Rint to organize the piles. He bleached the bones and built the structures.
    Famous Features: The chapel features a giant chandelier containing every bone in the human body, a bone-sculpted noble coat of arms, and skull garlands.
    Visitor Rule: Photography is banned inside to maintain respect for the deceased.
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  • St Barbara's Cathedral

    9 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    St. Barbara’s Church is a massive, spectacular Gothic cathedral funded entirely by mining wealth and dedicated to the patron saint of miners.
    Status Symbol: Miners started building it in 1388 to show independence from Prague and local monasteries.
    Master Builders: Designed by famous architects Peter Parler (Charles Bridge) and Benedikt Rejt (Prague Castle).
    Unique Look: Features an iconic exterior roof with three tent-like peaks and dramatic flying buttresses.
    Inside Artwork: Rare medieval frescoes show actual miners working the minting wheels and ore shafts.
    UNESCO Protection: Construction stopped when the silver ran out, leaving it a preserved Gothic time capsule.
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  • Traditional dinner and dance

    9 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Another "Get your Guide" activity today was a traditional dinner and dance.
    A bit disappointing. The food was average and music a bit uninspiring but the drinks flowed!
    The dancing was good. The honey wine was nice. There was a big bunch of Moroccan ladies who had a great night! A few birthdays, so it was fun to watch everyone else.

    I was sat with an Israeli couple who have been living in the US for 19 years, and a couple from Tennessee, recently of Colorado.
    By the end of the night I acquired a new "best friend". The Tennessee lady, Alissa, wants to follow my adventures!!

    .
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  • Karlovy Vary day trip

    10 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Another guided tour today. Only 13 people this time. There were Spaniards mostly, 2 Italians, 1 Israeli, 1 from Cyprus and me.
    Minibus ride today, 2 hours west of Prague.
    The countryside crops were wheat, sunflower, barley, canola, potato and hops.
     "Czech hops are the superior hops for beer. Better than Belgium hops!", said our guide Jan (man). Our driver was also Jan!!

    Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) is a spa town in the west Bohemia region of the Czech Republic. Its numerous thermal springs have made it a popular resort since the 19th century. The riverside spa district is home to several colonnades with columned walkways. The modern Hot Spring Colonnade houses the Pramen Vřídlo geyser, which spouts up to 12 meters high.
    It is very, very pretty.
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  • Becherovka is born

    10 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Becherovka of Karlovy Vary is currently the bestselling liqueur in the segment of bitter herbal liqueurs, and thus it is no surprise that it is often called the 13th spring of Karlovy Vary. Approximately 8 million litres of Becherovka are annually made and exported to almost 40 countries throughout the world. Comprising more than 20 types of herbs and spices made according to a secret recipe.

    Becherovka was created by an experienced businessman, Josef Vitus Becher (1769-1840). In 1794, the spice merchant rented a small distillery in the city and started experimenting with liqueurs. In 1805, he received a recipe for a new liqueur from Christian Frobrig, an English physician. Josef Becher spent two years testing the recipe before he began selling the English Bitter liqueur, which was designated to treat stomach issues. The Becher family started exporting Becherovka in the first half of the 19th century – they opened a shop in Štětín in 1834, then in Vienna, and Munich a year later, before they began selling their product in Paris in 1838. Becherovka finally conquered the United States in 1934 – after the prohibition ended, and four years later also England. Johann (Jan) Nepomuk Becher, the son of Josef Becher, is considered the true founder of the liqueur empire. He developed Becherovka for almost 40 years and in 1867, he moved the growing Becherovka production to a new factory in Steinberk. His signature as the confirmation of traditional quality and taste can still be found on every bottle of Becherovka today.
    Source: https://www.visitczechia.com/en-us/campaigns/tr…
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  • Change of hotel

    11 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today I move to a new hotel, Miss Sophie's Downtown, opposite the grand train station. Today I meet up with the Intrepid cycling group.
    I have a room-mate, Ursi from Switzerland.

    I go for another explore around the Old Town which is closer than before.

    I have a lovely lunch, then see people crowding around the famous Astronomical clock. Crowds gather hourly to watch the procession of the Twelve Apostles from the clock tower. There's a massive crowd.

    It's a Saturday and everyone is out enjoying the sun. They are even tossing a bride!!- hen's party I guess.

    Prague is a city of many types of museums. From the usual to the bizarre - street metal, chocolate, sex machines, torture.

    Tonight we have a meet and greet and welcome dinner. Our 2 guides live in Vienna but Hamish, is a Scottish pom and Lorenz is from Germany. In our group we have 2 Irish (didn't know each other), 2 other Aussies (married couple who did the 2nd leg first!), 2 Swiss (didn't know each other), 1 English, 1 American, 2 Canadians (couple), 2 Kiwis (couple from North Island).
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  • A history lesson

    11 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Prague is one of Europe's oldest and most beautiful capitals, with a history stretching back more than 1,100 years. It developed around the 9th century when the first castle was built on a hill overlooking the Vltava River. By the Middle Ages, Prague had become the capital of the Kingdom of Bohemia and one of Europe's leading centres of trade, learning, and culture.
    Bohemia was one of the historic lands of the Czech people, alongside Moravia and part of Silesia. During the 14th century, under Charles IV, Prague flourished. He founded Charles University in 1348—the first university in Central Europe—and commissioned many of the city's most famous landmarks, including the iconic Charles Bridge.
    Over the centuries, Bohemia became part of the Habsburg monarchy and later the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After the empire collapsed following World War I, the Czech lands united with Slovakia in 1918 to form the new nation of Czechoslovakia.
    During World War II, Nazi Germany occupied the country. After the war, Czechoslovakia came under communist rule until the peaceful Velvet Revolution of 1989 restored democracy.
    On 1 January 1993, Czechoslovakia peacefully separated into two independent countries in what became known as the "Velvet Divorce." The western Czech lands became the Czech Republic, with Prague as its capital, while the eastern region became Slovakia, with Bratislava as its capital. The split was amicable and remains one of the world's best examples of a peaceful separation of nations.
    Today, Prague is the capital of the Czech Republic and is celebrated for its remarkably preserved medieval architecture, rich cultural heritage, and centuries-long role as the historic heart of Bohemia.

    My impression - it is very pretty with obviously very differing styles of architecture evident. Beautiful streets with very tall colourful and decorated exteriors. People are pretty friendly considering they're Slavs who are known for being a bit reserved and stand-offish.

    The capital is very clean and safe. Other tourists have mentioned that also. You don't see many beggars or homeless, the odd ones you do are very meek, you barely notice them. There is a very obvious policie presence so maybe they move them on to somewhere else.
    Addit; after my move to a hotel close to the Train station, I see some dirty peeps wondering around and sleeping on benches in the park. Still not many though.

    They have trams, buses, and that funny European thing of a trolley bus- a bus that runs like a tram. Both old and new versions.
    And of course trains and cars. You don't see the trains in town but I think they are underground. The train station has 3 sublevels.

    It is known as the city of 100 spires - churches everywhere. With that thing, of lots of shiny gold decorations on statues and spire tops. And many bridges, the river flows through the middle of the city.
    Cannibas is ok, freely sold in dedicated shops, smell it being smoked.
    Most places you have to spend a penny to go to the public loo, or if you're lucky can pay by card these days.

    Interesting fun fact- I was wondering about the connection between Bohemia ( old Czech) and being a "Bohemian" as I don't see any Boho types here- they're very European chic.
    So....Wiki says...
    "Literary and artistic bohemians were associated in the French imagination with the roving Roma people, often referred to as "gypsies". Romani were called bohémiens in French because they were believed to have come to France from Bohemia.". ....there you go!!
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  • First day with the cycling tour.

    12 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today we get fitted to our bikes and go on an 18 km orientation ride around Prague. I opted for an ebike, half the group of 15 are probably on ebikes.

    Then we have free time. Ursi and I find a lovely salad for lunch. Then we have a trdelník, or chimney cake. I have wanted one every day but they are a huge donut chimney filled with various things, topped with icecream. I finally had a strawberry and Nutella one, and it was very yummy.

    This dessert is a trdelník (chimney cake), a traditional sweet pastry originally from Prague, Czech Republic, but hotly claimed by Hungary as well. The dough is rolled around a stick, grilled rotisserie-style, and typically coated in cinnamon sugar. It is frequently served filled with soft-serve ice cream, Nutella, or other toppings.
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  • Prague to Cesky Krumlov

    13 Juli, Republik Ceko ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Train from Prague to Cesky Krumlov via Ceske Budejovice, the home of Budweiser beer.

    Lovely ride, hot. Beautiful town, with a small river running through it. After we settle in we jump in the river to cool off. It looked brown and off-putting but there's lots of fish in it and is actually quite clean. locals are swimming too.
    We have an organised walking tour of the town which includes the castle which gives a good aerial view of the pretty town.
    On the way back to the hotel we call into a restaurant for a beer and I have a pork knuckle for tea.
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  • Amstetten to Melk via the Danube

    15 Juli, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Today we get to the Danube River then follow it along to Melk.
    It is so pretty along the river, I stop to take a lot of photos but have to cycle fast to catch up, even with an e-bike!!
    Melk is a very small but pretty town, with an Abbey that still has 22 monks living in it. It also houses a Grammar school. we have a guided tour of the Abbey. A thunderstorm rolls in.
    Hot and humid today, I'm starting to feel the heat and the riding so skip the group dinner and have some time-out. I buy a kebab before I go back to the hotel, it's the best dinner!!
    Europe is having a bit of a heatwave and they are not geared up for it. No air conditioning, lucky you might have a fan.
    It's nice to have time on my own.
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  • Melk to Reidling

    16 Juli, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Continuing along the Danube. 68 km today
    We are in Apricot country. Apricots done in every way possible.
    We also ride through vineyards.
    Again hot and humid but I drink lots more water today, with electrolytes in it and manage much better.
    We go to a lake for a swim and cool right down.
    Dinner at the hotel as it is a tiny farming village. The people who run the restaurant (and probably hotel) are brothers and sister refugees from Afghanistan.
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  • Vienna

    17 Juli, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We made it to Vienna. Today is the last day of riding of the first stage.
    We ride through farm paddocks, villages and a lot of it along a very long dam wall.
    When we stop at a supermarket for a bit of lunch, we are dripping buckets of sweat.

    It's a Friday afternoon and very busy when we get in. The traffic is terrifying and the guide nearly loses us back-enders. We agree we don't want to be subjected to that again!
    We do an orientation ride of Vienna but it's the last thing we want to do on such a long hot day.

    It's up to 33 degrees or more and building up to a thunderstorm so gets very humid also.
    We only just made it to the hotel before the storm hit.
    Then a farewell dinner for the first stage, in a lovely old restaurant. Most of the group are leaving. 6 are continuing on to Budapest, so tomorrow we have another welcome dinner to meet the new cyclists.
    Hamish, the guide leaves us also. Lorenz continues.
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  • Rest day in Vienna

    18 Juli, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today is a rest day. Very muchly needed. Recovering from the heat more than the riding I think. We all feel it.

    After a lay-in, a few of us go to a very flash laundromat to do some laundry. It's very clean and tidy and takes card!

    It's got hot and steamy again by this time so I got on the HOHO bus, sit in the lower air conditioned level and see Vienna in a bit of comfort. I have no more juice in my tank so sitting is good. I do the red route, then the blue route.

    By this time it's time to get back to the hotel. Alison, my friend from Melbourne is now my room- mate. It was her suggestion we do this trip.
    At 6 pm we have a welcome meeting with the new lot of riders joining us.
    We have 4 more Aussies, 2 Canadians, 2 Americans. Plus 6 of us "oldies".
    Hamish the guide has left us and Gabor from Hungary joins Lorenz as a guide. Hamish and Lorenz were a lot more laid back. Gabor is much more by the rules!!

    Then the welcome dinner at a Burger joint down the road.
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  • First official day of Stage 2

    19 Juli, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The newbies have a bike fitting, then we all go on a short ride around Vienna, ending with a cuppa and cake made by pensioners. As promised by the guides, the traffic is much slower and we feel ok riding around Vienna now.

    I chill out in my room for the rest of the afternoon listening to music, I'd forgotten how much I missed it.
    Then most of us go out to a Lebanese restaurant that Ursi knows. It's lovely.

    On the way home every pub is playing the Soccer World cup on a big telly. Spain vs Argentina
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  • Capital to Capital

    20 Juli, Slovakia ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    82 km to Bratislava.
    Big day. Not as hot 👏👏👏

    Today is a long ride but as always, very pretty. It's not too "hairy" leaving Vienna as it was coming in.
    Along the Danube, through sunflower fields. We cross a river on a ferry and ride through forest to get to a better road.
    We call into some Roman ruins for a group photo, then onto lunch.
    We cross the border pretty well on the outskirts of Bratislava.
    I'm looking forward to this city as Steve and I loved it when we were here a few years ago.

    Some of us still get confused and scared when trying to navigate over large intersections in a strange city.
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