The California Zephyr

Boart! Today I embark on one of the world’s great train journeys from Chicago to San Francisco on the California Zephyr. I checked in at Chicago’s magnificent Union Station where the Metropolitan Lounge offered free snacks, soft drinks, coffee and WiFi. Union Station, Chicago is home to the famous flight of stairs that featured in The Untouchables movie. A warning sign at the foot of the stairs advised you to take care - but forgot to add ‘especially if you are pushing a pram!’

The journey to California takes in excess of 50 hours - so, with 2 nights on board I opted for sleeping car accommodation, and was shown to my roomette, a small compartment for 1 or 2 persons. It had two comfy seats facing each other, a picture window, and converted into 1 or 2 beds for sleeping. Ample toilets were available, and there was a shower downstairs which I tried out later and which proved very good, with plenty of hot water, soap, shampoo and towels provided, even if it was a bit shoogly.

Although we left Union Station dead on time (2pm) we were hit with torrential storms, and the conductor announced the train had been told to slow down as there had been flash flooding, and a tornado had been predicted ahead! And we’re not even in Kansas, I thought.

My cabin steward converted my roomette into a bedroomette with a few skilled pushes and pulls of levers. Towels, water, light and a power socket were provided, but alas no WiFi. Boo, Amtrak.

The train stopped briefly as we crossed the state line into Iowa. I got off to stretch my legs and thought ‘I really ought to give Iowa a try’. I couldn’t believe it when the train conductor shooed us all back on the train with a mighty ‘Boart!’ à la Music Man. I hadn’t fully appreciated that all meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) are included for sleeper passengers, so I chose a time for dinner, and joined 3 fellow travellers in the pleasant dining car. Everything on the menu, including soft drinks and coffee was included so, as not to offend, I chose mixed salad, steak and baked potato with green beans, followed by cheesecake and coffee. I then settled down for the night, ready for a good sleep.

As predicted, the storm worsened, and I was wakened about 3am by the most violent storm I had seen. Loud thunder banged, and sheets of lightning illuminated the wide plains for more than 30 minutes (Bobby, you would have loved it!).

The flash floods reminded me of a story of my good friend - the late, great Jean McCormack. Once during a visit to the Theatre Royal, Glasgow when confined to a wheelchair, she had an accident and didn’t make it to the bathroom on time. As a small river ran down the stalls below her, she produced a bottle of Irn Bru and poured some on the floor before calling the front of house steward: ‘Oh, sir can you help me? I’ve just spilled my drink’. ‘No problem, madam. I’ll get a mop’ he replied. ‘Which is why’ Jean advised me confidentially ‘you should always carry a bottle of Irn Bru with you’. And which is why I always do!

As Jean would say, we thundered through the night, and I woke at 7am and enjoyed a hearty breakfast. My table companion was a very talkative, glam woman, older than she ever intended to be, who ran her own travel business. She was meant to drive to Reno, but chose the train, leaving her colleagues to drive. She was pleased she had made the right decision when she showed me a photo on her phone of their car with all its windows smashed in by giant hailstones during last night’s storm.

There was another unscheduled stop when we were advised that a lady required some attention and had to leave the train. From the Observation Car we saw that the ‘lady’ was a fare dodger who was arrested and put into the back of a state police car which had drawn up beside the train.

We finally arrived at Denver, Colorado and I stretched my legs to have a peek inside the beautifully restored Union Station. A poster advertised visits to the the home of the Unsinkable Molly Brown, survivor of the Titanic (and another show by Meredith Willson). Our departure was delayed when a 2 mile long freight train in front of us hit a railway bridge, and we had to wait for an engineer to declare it safe to continue. Due to weather delays, a few burst hose pipes and now this, meant that the train was running 4 hours late. Still, nobody seem to mind, and the atmosphere on board was cheerful and convivial.

The best part of the journey came next - going through the Rockies. The rest of the day into evening was spent in the Observation Car, as the train climbed from the already mile-high city of Denver into increasingly spectacular scenery. Rolling green hills gave way to craggy cliffs and gorgeous gorges - much of it following the mighty Colorado River. We were promised wildlife, but all I spotted were a few deer, a solitary moose and two bald-headed eagles.

I found most Americans on the train to be friendly, and keen to show off this beautiful part of their country. One elderly gentleman, for all the world the spitting image of the angel Clarence from ‘It’s A Wonderful Life,’ with his kindly eyes and bulbous nose, gave a running commentary. After a long chat with him, during which I mentioned The Music Man, he beamed broadly, jumped up from his seat and bellowed ‘Cash for the merchandise’, to which I sheepishly responded ‘cash for the buttonhooks’. Well, this encouragement was all that Clarence needed, so we got the full version of Rock Island. ‘You know, I played a main part in that show in High School’ he offered. ‘Harold Hill?’ I suggested. ‘Naw’ said Clarence with pride, ‘Salesman 4 - whadayetalk, whadayetalk, whadayetalk, whadayetalk’. Ah, well, time for lunch!

I sat with two proud grandparents and their grandson for lunch. Just as I was about to tuck into my cheeseburger and fries, the grandmother said ‘would you join us by holding hands and giving thanks to Our Lord?’ Given her insistent tone and fixed smile, I thought I had better not decline her offer.

Another night on the train, and we awoke in the desert landscape of Nevada. After a stop in Reno, another highlight was in store - crossing the Sierra Nevada with its spectacular mountain scenery. My ears popped at the high altitude. A volunteer guide from the local historic railway society pointed some of the many highlights of the area. What a beautiful clear day for the trip. After stopping at the State Capital Sacramento, we dropped down into the Bay Area and the final western terminus of this train - Emeryville, California, from where a coach was waiting to take us into downtown San Francisco. What a wonderful and memorable trip this has been on the California Zephyr.Read more