• Robert Fyfe

An Antipodean Adventure

Et 27-dags eventyr af Robert Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    21. januar 2020

    And we’re off...

    21. januar 2020, Skotland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    First leg of our journey Down Under - BA flight Glasgow to London (Heathrow). Thanks for the lift, Mags, and the hat, Ken. I’m sure it’ll look more appropriate in Australasia!

    Walking through Glasgow Airport, I noticed they had renewed a lot of their carpets. It reminded me of the days when, as Glasgow Airport Drama Club, we rehearsed at a tied house we were given use of to store our props and costumes. Also stored in this wee terraced house on Inchinnan Road were several rolls of ‘airport’ carpet - the black and white jazzy patterned type that was so familiar as you walked along to the departure gates. As it was no longer required, and was being discarded, I took some to my parents’ home to carpet the hall stair. My Mum was never keen on it, but my Dad thought it was great as it was so hardwearing. With his wry sense of humour, I remember he took great pleasure in standing at the foot of the stairs, stopping anyone who was going upstairs, saying ‘Passports, please!’

    On arrival at Heathrow, we had to change from BA’s Terminal 5 to Terminal 2, from where our Singapore flight would depart. As we had few hours to kill, we treated ourselves to a tasty meal at Heston Blumenthal’s Perfectionists’ Café. Not cheap but very tasty.
    Læs mere

  • London to Singapore

    22. januar 2020, Singapore ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Got ourselves psyched up for the next big leg of our journey - the 12 hour flight to Singapore. Our hearts sank initially when a screaming child behind us displayed an impressive set of lungs, but a few doses of Calpol soon sorted him/her out. The Singapore Airlines crew are all so slim, smart and beautiful. Complimentary drinks were available throughout the flight, but after a G&T and wine with our meal, we thought we better stick to water and Coke Zero thereafter.

    The entertainment was very good. Campbell managed to get through the whole of Season 1 of YOU. I managed a record 4 feature films - the Korean Oscar Best Film nomination Parasite; the schoolboy humour of Good Boys; and two classic black and white movies - Orson Welles’ masterpiece Citizen Kane, and one of my film noir favourites, Mildred Pierce. Who doesn’t love Joan Crawford with her shoulder pads, fur coat and a pistol in her pocket - marvellous! Needless to say we didn’t get much shut eye, so we were a bit zombie-like when we arrived at the lovely Changi Airport in Singapore. Given we had a 6.5 hour layover, we had hoped to take advantage of the free Singapore City tour on offer, but as our flight was slightly delayed due to a bit of re routing to (thankfully) avoid flying over Iraq / Iran, we just missed it. Thankfully we had been here a few years ago with Ken and Bill on a cruise, so had seen many of the sights of this wonderful city. We passed the time well, using the free WiFi and relaxing in the various garden areas of the airport - butterfly garden, orchid garden etc. Soon it was time to board another Singapore Airlines flight to Cairns - a doddle at only 7 hours!
    Læs mere

  • Singapore to Cairns

    23. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The next leg of our journey from Singapore to Cairns in Queensland, Australia was provided by SilkAir, the regional wing of Singapore Airlines. We were surprised to find that only a soft drink and a small packet of peanuts was offered by way of sustenance on this 7 hour flight, until breakfast just before arrival. This was compounded by the fact that, due to an emergency involving the evacuation of the control tower at Singapore, we sat on the plane for two hours before takeoff. After a bit of pleading with the steward, however, we were given an extra early breakfast. The entertainment too was not as good - there were no back-of-the-seat TV screens, and we were told you had to download their app before accessing movies on your own device (provided you had one). Unfortunately, this was difficult to do with no WiFi on board, and it would have been better if we had known to do this in the airport with its free WiFi before boarding. However, Campbell managed to sort us out with his Hot Spot (don’t ask!). On the plus side, we were assigned extra legroom seats above the wing, which facilitated my frequent nocturnal visits to the loo, thus saving the use of my emergency Tena Man supply (thanks, Rab!).

    Eventually almost 40 hours after we left Glasgow, we arrived in Cairns. Although we were pretty exhausted, we decided to keep going and get into the Aussie time frame. We were booked into the comfortable Mantra Esplanade Hotel, right in the centre of town. After a very welcome shower and change of clothes, we set off to have a look round. Cairns is an attractive holiday town, with numerous travel companies vying for your business to visit the Great Barrier Reef. There was no sign of any fire damage here, and the town was lush with vegetation everywhere. Although the town doesn’t have a beach, there is a beautiful man-made lagoon, complete with sand, right at the sea front just opposite our hotel. I opted however for a swim in the hotel pool in an attempt to cool down - only to find it was like stepping into a warm bath! For dinner, we opted for a Japanese ramen dish in a basic but highly recommended tiny restaurant. By 8pm we are ready for bed - Campbell is already out for the count!
    Læs mere

  • The Great Barrier Reef

    24. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Had a great sleep and felt more human this morning. Enjoyed a tasty Aussie breakfast at the café next door. The Council workers were already out cleaning the streets and tending to the beautiful foliage along the kerbside - just like home! Everything here is so clean and well cared for. The parks are lovely, and there is plenty to do to encourage the residents’ and visitors’ well being.

    Included in our trip was a full day visit to Green Island on the Great Barrier Reef. What a beautiful day we had. A comfortable 45 minute crossing on the catamaran took us there in jig time. Also included was a trip on the glass bottom boat. I felt just like Doris Day. It was amazing to look down on the reef and see such a huge variety of fish and corals in this World Heritage site. We were lucky to spot a number of huge turtles too, and it was great to see them in their natural habitat. Also included was snorkelling on the reef, and what a fab experience - the size, colours and variety of the fish were breathtaking. As a boy, I always had a tropical fish tank, encouraged by my Dad, and this was as if you had put your head in a marine fish tank - he would have loved this.

    Green Island was small enough to walk round it in half an hour. It was a lovely walk through the rainforest with all the different noises of birds around you. Campbell however was convinced it was all pre recorded like the Tiki Tiki Room at Disneyworld
    Læs mere

  • Kuranda and Koalas

    25. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Today’s trip was one we were looking forward to - a journey on the Kuranda Scenic Railway - and it did not disappoint. The construction of the Cairns - Kuranda Railway was an engineering feat of tremendous magnitude. In 1873 the cry of ‘gold’ echoed through the mountains, and a reliable route had to be found, resulting in one of the most ambitious railway projects ever undertaken. Leaving Cairns aboard one of the original early 1900s carriages, we experienced the full jaw-dropping rainforest, gorges and waterfall experience. Highlights included the 180-degree Horseshoe Bend, the Stoney Creek Falls Bridge, and a photo stop at the spectacular Barron Falls.

    Kuranda itself was, as expected, very touristy, with markets, Aboriginal crafts and art works, rainforest walks and wildlife experiences. A must for us was the Kuranda Koala Gardens, where we were thrilled to meet a variety of marsupials, and even got to hold a koala 🐨 - how cute are they! So sad to hear of the huge numbers lost in the recent devastating bush fires. The adjacent Bird World was also amazing, with a plethora of exotic, brightly coloured birds, one of whom was determined to peck its way into my backpack - despite the fact that the only food contained therein was a half melted Fry’s Chocolate Cream, and the remains of a tin of M&S mints (courtesy of Ken).

    We opted to return via the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. What an experience - floating above the canopy of the rainforest, with fabulous views over the mountains and down to the coast - breathtaking and so peaceful. This is a trip highly recommended to anyone visiting the Cairns / Queensland area.
    Læs mere

  • Spirit of Queensland

    26. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Well, what a great time we had in Cairns, and we were sorry to leave this lovely city. However our adventure continues, and this morning we headed to Cairns Central Railway Station to catch the 0835 Sprit of Queensland train all the way to Brisbane - a journey of 25 hours - and still in the same state!

    The train was clean and comfortable with reclining seats and screen entertainment. It was fairly quiet until just before departure when a young, scruffily dressed, tousled-hair boy of about 10 came on ushering his parent on board. Initially I thought the parent, shoeless and wearing a dirty vest and covered in tattoos, was his father, but it emerged it was in fact his mother. From her demeanour she would appear to suffer from addiction and / or mental health issues, and in between devouring sachets of sugar, was constantly telling off and correcting her son. He wanted to watch Aladdin on the movie screen, and asked her what it was all about. ‘Just a riff-raff boy’ she replied ‘but people don’t realise he’s a Prince’. He suggested she watch it with him too, but she kept interrupting: ‘Anyway, I don’t like musicals, even though I used to be queer’ she declared. She continued to rant ‘Flesh, flesh , flesh, desire, desire, desire’ before flicking through her well-thumbed book ‘God’s Word’ and searching on the music channels for ‘Christian Music’. Campbell felt so sorry for the wee boy and, ditching his plan to take home yesterday’s koala, hatched a plan to take the boy home and adopt him, enrol him at Hutchie and give him the chance to become a real Prince.

    We had already been thinking of asking if it was possible to get an upgrade to Rail Bed accommodation - and our travelling companions made up our mind. The helpful on board steward made enquires and, for a reasonable fee, we were soon relaxing in our upgraded carriage, with spacious, comfy seats (which later folded down into beds), with all meals with drinks and toiletries included. Smashing!

    The train journey was memorable, with scenery changing from the lush rainforest of North Queensland to banana and sugar cane plantations, and prairie landscapes where eagle-eyed Campbell even spotted a few kangaroos hopping about the bush. We passed through Ayr station, but didn’t have time to stop at the Wellington for a fish supper. Surprisingly there was not much evidence of the bush fire damage which has devastated so much of Australia.

    The food and service on board was very good, and the Steward’s conversion of our comfy chairs into even comfier beds was amazing to watch - what a clever design. I managed to watch two movies (Yesterday / Red Joan) and enjoyed them both. Campbell’s choice was Galaxy Quest, which he claims is one of the best films ever made!

    Our cosy bed cubicles looked similar to the ones found on Business Class flights (not that I’d know), only with more space. Our complimentary toiletries were put to good use in the large shower room at the end of the carriage. The train itself was quiet and ran smoothly, resulting in a fairly good night’s sleep. We awoke to another sunny morning and a nice cooked breakfast served at our seat - one could get used to this!
    Læs mere

  • Beautiful Brisbane

    27. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Our train arrived at Brisbane’s Roma Street Station at 0950 - only 30 minutes late, which wasn’t too bad after such a long journey. We walked up through a beautiful though very steep park to our hotel - The Pacific. Hoping just to leave our luggage, we were pleasantly surprised to be allowed access to our room, even although it was only 10am. After showering and changing, we set off to explore Brisbane. Today (Monday) was a public holiday in respect of yesterday’s Australia Day. We took a pleasant (but hot) 5 minute walk down to the city centre, and visited the small city museum. We noted that the City of Brisbane was named after Sir Thomas Brisbane who was born in Largs, Ayrshire in 1773. (I remember now that we stayed at the Brisbane Hotel in Largs not so long ago). We then joined the excellent free tour of Brisbane City Hall, the main auditorium of which houses the magnificent Father Henry Willis organ which has more than 4300 pipes. To round off, we took the lift for the Clock Tower Tour, and enjoyed panoramic views of the city.

    Feeling the need to cool off, we then took advantage of the free City Hopper Ferry along the Brisbane River (so far today’s activities have cost us zero!). Seeing this beautiful city from the river was a great way to get your bearings. Visited the South Bank - an amazing complex of cultural buildings - theatres, galleries, museums, as well as beautiful riverside landscaped gardens and an extensive city beach with man-made lagoon. The place was thronged with families swimming, having picnics and generally enjoying themselves. A high quality of life does seem very important to Australians, and Brisbane seems to be a very family-friendly city. I remember our family almost emigrated here in the 1960s under the £10 scheme, and I wonder what life would have been like had we done so.

    We enjoyed a tasty dinner and cold cider at the Plough Inn on the South Bank, busy with locals celebrating Australia Day weekend. My half portion of barbecue ribs could easily have fed half a dozen and even Campbell couldn’t help me finish them off. Back to the hotel for an early night after a lovely day in this most attractive city.
    Læs mere

  • Beautiful Brisbane - Day 2

    28. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Before our tasty breakfast we did a big washing in the hotel laundry - how can we have got through so many clothes in a few days? We were then joined by my former social work colleague, Kylie, who had offered to meet up with us and show us around. It was great to see her again, and since I worked with her In Glasgow, she has returned to live on the Sunshine Coast with her husband Tam from Govan and their three children. Kylie took us on a trip to Mount Coot-tha, a favourite scenic point, which had fabulous views over the city of Brisbane. We then visited the beautiful Botanic Gardens, enjoying the shade offered by the huge variety of trees in view of the heat. On return to the city, we enjoyed a late tasty Greek lunch, before bidding farewell to Kylie after a most enjoyable day.

    Campbell and I then attended a small exhibition called Bittersweet, about the development of musical theatre in Australia. Although mostly obscure works we had never heard of, it included memorabilia and costumes from shows including The Boy From Oz and, of course, Priscilla. There was also mention of the latest hit musical, Muriel’s Wedding. Although it seems to have had great success here, I am not aware of any proposed productions on Broadway or the West End. The next Runway premiere perhaps? We then visited the much lauded Gallery of Modern Art, and on the way in we saw a pair of old boots on the steps outside. We wondered initially if these were actually one of the art exhibits, I have to say that the contents of the gallery were very highbrow, and we much preferred the architecture of the building to the art works themselves. Bring back Kelvingrove!

    We were planning on going to see the big show in town - The Book of Mormon - but as we both had seen the show before (Campbell twice!), and the fact that our body clock has still not quite adjusted to Australian time, we were worried we would fall asleep at the interval. Instead we settled for a walk round the old, historic quarter, viewing Parliament House, the Old Government Building and the City Botanic Gardens. By the time we walked over the pedestrian bridge over the river and caught the ferry back, it was certainly nearing our bedtime of 9pm.
    Læs mere

  • Stunning Sydney

    29. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Enjoyed an early morning pre breakfast dip in the lovely deserted hotel pool, before catching an Über to the airport (cheaper than the train). We were sorry to leave Brisbane - what a lovely, friendly, easy-to-find-your-way-about city. Our Virgin Australia flight to Sydney was quick and comfortable, and included complimentary refreshments. Getting into the centre of the city was easy, with a direct train from the airport to Sydney Central in 15 minutes (Glasgow Airport please take note!). Our hotel - the Rendezvous Central - was close to the station at a busy traffic junction, and more of a business type than the the more tourist-friendly ones we have enjoyed so far. With a cloudy sky and very British brick-like buildings around the enormous Central Station, it resembled a North of England town and, until the sun came out, I could have sworn we were in Wigan! Still it was handy for local transport.

    Following the advice in our guide book, we took the local train over the Sydney Harbour Bridge to Milson’s Point, from where we walked back to the city over this iconic, world famous bridge. We had fabulous views over Sydney harbour and the iconic Sydney Opera House. Thereafter we had a walk around the now trendy Rocks area and Circular Quay, busy with numerous ferries plying their way back and forth to surrounding areas.

    After an early supper, we took the tram back to our hotel. We thought we could use our contactless cards on the tram, but discovered they had to be activated before boarding. I enjoyed the thrill of ‘dogging it’, (skipping my fare), although Campbell was convinced we would thrown into the Sydney equivalent of Sing Sing!
    Læs mere

  • Stunning Sydney - Day 2

    30. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Our time clock still not fully adjusted, we were up again at 6am. Another lovely but hot day, we decided due to our limited time, to go on a Hop-on Hop-off city bus tour. The first part took us round the extensive Sydney city centre with its notable Victorian buildings - very British. In the afternoon we went to the famous Bondi Beach on the outskirts of the city. I had feared it might be a bit like Saltcoats with sunshine, but was impressed by the beautiful, spotlessly clean beach and crystal clear ocean. Excellent free changing areas and showers were provided, so I took advantage of a swim in the lovely waters. Had great fun splashing about in the crashing waves, ignoring the fact that I was a bit of a great white whale amongst all the svelte, tanned physiques. Ah, well it’s nice to be different.

    An over enthusiastic tour guide try to tempt a posh English lady with a trip to Tarunga Zoo - ‘you will see koala’ he promised. ‘I’ve seen plenty of koalas’ she replied dismissively. ‘What about Cockatoo Island?’ he persisted, ‘You can see a cockatoo’. ‘I’ve seen plenty of them too’ she retorted with a saucy laugh. It reminded us of the gag in ‘Allo, ‘Allo’.

    This being Campbell’s birthday, we changed and made our way to the Opera House. What a stunning building in such a fabulous location, with folk enjoying the harbour views from the surrounding walkway. A masterpiece of architecture, the Sydney Opera House is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We enjoyed a Prosecco and a tasty, but nouvelle-cuisine sized, pre performance meal inside, before enjoying a performance of La Bohème in the Joan Sutherland Theatre. We enjoyed the lovely singing and sweeping music, but didn’t really see the point of the 1930s Nazi setting. This beautiful 1500 seat theatre is just one of the performance venues at the Opera House, with the even bigger 2000 seat concert hall next door.

    After the opera, we enjoyed the walk back to Circular Quay admiring the illuminated Opera House, Harbour Bridge and Manhattan-like skyline. This time we did pay our tram fare, though jumped off at Woolworths for some cold drinks and another packet of Tim Tams (very popular Penguin-like biscuits), for our bedtime cuppa. Smashing! ☕️ We know how to live it up!
    Læs mere

  • Capital Canberra

    31. januar 2020, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Yet another 6am rise to catch the 07.12 train from Sydney Central to Canberra. We were going to visit my Aunt Jean and cousin Stuart who ironically only recently moved from Sydney to Canberra. Our 1st Class journey was pleasant enough, although not on a par with the wonderful Spirit of Queensland service. (Train nerd note: I noticed that the New South Wales trains run on the Standard Gauge Track of 4’6”, like the UK, as opposed to Queensland’s smaller 3’6” Gauge).

    The train passed through Campbelltown on the way, (but no sign of the Loch (or the whisky). Again there was only minimal sightings of bush fire damage on the 4 hour train trip, although generally everything looked hot and dried up, including some of the small rivers. The air conditioned carriage belied the fact that it was 41 degrees Celsius outside! No need for my sweater then today!

    We arrived bang on time in the nation’s capital city, Canberra, located in the ACT (Australian Capital Territory), separate from the rest of the State of New South Wales, just as Washington DC is a separate entity from other US States. Stuart and Aunt Jean met us at the station and it was good to see them again. Aunt Jean has recently turned 90 and is looking good.

    Stuart gave us a tour of Canberra - the planned capital city of what was the new Australian federation. The excellent visitor centre gave an overview of the planning of the city, and then we had a tour of the impressive Parliament Building. A trip up to Black Mountain Telstra Tower afforded wonderful views over the city and Lake Burley Griffin including, rather worryingly, a thick pall of smoke from bush fires just over the hills! We finished our tour with a trip to the National Arboretum, home to more than 44,000 trees from all over the world, including many endangered species.

    A visit back to Aunt Jean’s house for tea ended a lovely visit. Although Stuart offered to drive us back to Sydney (distance is no object here in Oz, he declared), we insisted on getting the train back as we had bought return tickets anyway. The 4 hour journey back was slightly delayed as the train was required to slow down due to excessive outside heat which was affecting the rails!

    We enjoyed an airline-style meal on the train back to Sydney. As we were eating, we heard a rather loud conversation from the elderly gentleman behind us, on the phone to his daughter: ‘Yes, I know honey that your new stepmother and I have been on another trip, and I can tell you here and now that there will be a lot more. What difference does age make? I’m not 80 yet and I know she still finds me attractive. I don’t care how much our trips cost, I’ll be damned if I am leaving anything for you to squander’. Still not sure if he was joking, but the call ended abruptly thereafter.
    Læs mere

  • So Long Sydney

    1. februar 2020, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    After checking out of our Sydney Hotel, we made our way to the Overseas Passenger Terminal where we caught sight of our home for the next two weeks - Holland America’s Noordam cruise ship. What a fantastic berth she had, nestling in between two iconic monuments - the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. We were able to drop our cases off, although it was only 9am, which left the rest of the morning free to explore a bit more of Sydney.

    Decided take one of the local ferries from the adjacent Circular Quay to Manly - Sydney’s other famous beach. It was a pleasant 30 minute sail through the lovely harbour area. Manly was named by Captain Arthur Phillip for the indigenous people living there, stating that "their confidence and manly behaviour made me give the name of Manly Cove to this place". Campbell and I thought therefore we would fit in well.

    Although most of the passengers on the ferry were your typical families and teenagers heading to the beach to have fun, there was one rough and ready family whom Australians would definitely call ‘bogan’. Mother and daughter were both shoeless, bra-less and toothless and covered in tattoos. Mother in fact reminded me of Susie B’s character Shirley in Priscilla Queen of the Desert. Strewth! The son looked as if he hadn’t had a shower in quite some time, and father had a huge cooler crate in tow. ‘We’re gonna have a barbie on the beach’ he announced with a huge grin that revealed he attended the same dentist. From a peek inside his crate there was enough food and drink to feed a small army.

    Manly Beach was similar to Bondi - with even bigger crashing waves, and I enjoyed my swim. We returned in time to board our ship just after 1pm. The check-in process was quite slow as everyone had been told to come at the same time, and was delayed further when it was announced that all non Australian passengers required a Visa to enter New Zealand. This was news to most of us Brits and Americans, and it seems this change just came in in October. An hour later and $47 each lighter we had our NZ Visas and headed on board.

    Initial impressions of the ship were very favourable - and although a bit older than some we have been on - it has recently been updated and was clean and comfortable with a friendly Steward. Enjoyed a lovely lunch on board in the shadow of the Opera House - amazing!

    And now time for sail away to Tasmania!
    Læs mere

  • Life aboard the Noordam

    1. februar 2020, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Settling nicely into our cruise ship - Holland America’s Noordam. It has had a recent makeover and looks fresh and very comfortable with all new carpets and furnishings. We have a nice stateroom on the Upper Verandah Deck, with a large balcony. The bathroom even has a small bath as well as a shower, although I don’t know if I would get out of it once in! We have bathrobes and Elemis toiletries which is nice. Given the number of sea days, we decided to buy the Green House Spa Package, featuring hot mosaic-tiled beds, thalassotherapy pool, steam rooms and sauna - lovely to relax in with views of the ocean.

    The entertainment is not as varied as Royal Caribbean, and the emphasis is on more classical tastes, with musicians performing on the intimate Lincoln Center Stage or in BB Kings Blues Club. The Duelling Pianos are also very popular. There are a number of Coffee and Chat sessions with the personable Cruise Director Chris (beep!). He delivered a very interesting audio-visual presentation on the history and development of the Holland America Line, including its role during the war transporting troops. Interesting to note that the line’s first ship - the Rotterdam - was built in 1872 in Renfrew! All very different from our usual fare, but very enjoyable. The first full show in the World Stage Theatre featured the singers and dancers in a tribute to Billboard hits, and was of a very high standard.

    The food so far has been outstanding. We have a lovely table for two in the dining room (how anti-social!), but usually go to the Lido buffet for breakfast - great variety including excellent omelettes.

    Our Captain’s welcome toast was a poignant occasion as the the officers and representatives of all departments came on stage to pay tribute to Captain John Scott in this his final voyage after 45 years before disembarking in his home city of Auckland. The Captain delivered a heartfelt speech. He finished by saying that, as we will have noticed, the first day at sea had been quite rocky, and we can all claim to have sailed through a hurricane - defined as 64 knots, when we had experienced 64.5 knots.

    All in all a very relaxing and pleasant start to the cruise. Just arrived in Hobart, Tasmania. The ship has docked within walking distance of the town so we are looking forward to exploring it - hopefully no Devils! 👿
    Læs mere

  • Handsome Hobart

    3. februar 2020, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We had a long time available ashore today - from 8am till 11pm. Tasmania’s capital city, Hobart, lies nestled between the peak of Mount Wellington and the River Derwent. A city of only 220,000, it is an attractive place with a dark history - apparently 80% of Hobartians are descended from the convicts sent here in the 19th century. Many of the warehouses around the port and Salamanca / Battery Point area have been gentrified, and there is now an abundance of coffee shops, restaurants and boutique hotels.

    We decided to take a hop-on, hop-off bus again to get an overview. The temperature had dropped to a cool 15 degrees (when we have been used to 30-40), and I needed my zipper for the first time. We were reminded that Hobart has strong connections with Antarctica (‘Oh, please!’ as the Drowsy Chaperone would say).

    We visited the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens and enjoyed a pleasant walk around. Hobart is an interesting place to visit and spend some more time in.

    As we will be at sea / cruising fjords for the next 3 days it is unlikely I will be able to post any updates. Please be patient and normal service will be resumed as soon as possible. 😘
    Læs mere

  • Diversion to Oban!

    6. februar 2020, Tasman Sea ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Over the past two days at sea, we have continued to enjoy our relaxing time on the Noordam. We have made good use of the Spa, and the high standard of food has been maintained. There is complimentary Room Service, and we enjoyed breakfast served in our Stateroom. We have met some lovely fellow passengers including two nice couples from Germany who lamented our departure from the EU. Campbell and I have spent time people watching, and likening some of our fellow passengers to celebrities. So far we have encountered Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, an elderly Doris Day, and Theresa May enjoying her retirement!

    After a relaxing two days at sea, we were looking forward to arriving at Milford Sound in New Zealand’s fjordland today. However the Captain announced last night that due to recent flash flooding, resulting in landslides and hundreds of tourists being trapped in the area and having to be rescued by helicopter, a State of Emergency has been declared, and we were sadly unable to visit the area 🙁. However, as an alternative, the Captain was pleased to announce that we would instead be diverting and making an unscheduled visit to Oban! I thought at first that this was a bit much of a detour, until I realised it was the small port of Oban on Stewart Island, New Zealand’s largely forgotten third island. Although a reasonable size, the whole island has a population of only 400 and, with no predators, it is a bird sanctuary and home to hundreds of different species, including kiwis.

    To access the island required taking a tender to shore. The number of passengers coming ashore from the ship more than quadrupled the whole population. Today was a holiday - Waitangi Day - the national day of New Zealand. The main activity on the island appeared to be the annual Man of the Year contest. This involved burly locals competing in a variety of testosterone and beer-fuelled activities on the beach. Campbell and I were going to enter but didn’t want to show them up.

    I took a lovely (but steep) walk up to Observation Rock where I had fabulous views over Golden Bay towards the island of - wait forever it - Iona. We visited the tiny local museum, which reminded Campbell of the one at Invergordon - minus the major attraction of the Iron Lung.

    We were disappointed not to have made it to Milford Sound, but after seeing news footage on TV could understand why. We’ll just have to come back.
    Læs mere

  • Delightful Dunedin

    7. februar 2020, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Our ship docked this morning at Port Chalmers on the mainland of NZ South Island. This was where Scottish settlers first arrived in 1848 on the ship John Wickliffe. Rather than go on an official tour, we took the local bus the 13k into Dunedin - New Zealand’s oldest city - given the Celtic name for Edinburgh by the early Scottish settlers. It enjoys the status of being the furthest city in the world from London.

    A highlight for me was visiting Dunedin Railway Station with its ornate Flemish Renaissance-style architecture and gorgeous Minton tiles on the inside - apparently this is the most photographed building in New Zealand. Scottish names and influences are everywhere in this area - St Kilda, Portobello, Musselburgh - the museum even had a preserved cable car going to Maryhill!

    We enjoyed a walk round the central Octogon area, featuring a pride-of-place statue of Rabbie Burns, and the excellent Art Gallery which included interactive exhibits involving hammocks and free tea making. At the Chinese Garden we had more tea and dumplings (although these were not as good as Alice’s mum’s homemade ones). We finished up at the extensive and fabulous Otago Settlers Museum - almost as good as Oban’s Museum yesterday - and this one was free! 😂

    On our departure from Port Chalmers, the ship passed an albatross colony, and there was great excitement as almost all passengers, including zimmers and wheelchairs, clambered up to the Crow’s Nest bar for a glimpse of the creatures. I have to say they looked much like the seagulls at Largs who steal your fish supper.
    Læs mere

  • Creative Christchurch

    8. februar 2020, New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    This morning’s port was Akaroa - a charming town that strives to recreate the feel of a French provincial village, down to the names of its streets. The ships used to dock in Lyttelton, but since the earthquakes Akaroa has been a popular substitute.

    Given the weather this morning, which was cool and a bit wet, we decided to take a trip on a local tour coach to Christchurch, 1.5 hours away. Beautiful scenery of mountains and lakes en route reminded us of our homeland.

    Christchurch is in the middle of an epic rebuild that has completely reconstructed the city centre, where over 80% of buildings needed to be demolished after the earthquakes of 2010 and 2011, which left 186 people dead. There are still lots of vacant lots and most buildings in the city are only a few years old. We took the historic tram ride around the city centre, visiting the ruined cathedral, Canterbury Museum and another Botanic Gardens (Ken, you would be proud of us!).

    Christchurch is like a Phoenix rising from the ashes and seems to have a burgeoning Arts scene, with numerous art galleries, museums etc. It’ll be nice when it’s finished.
    Læs mere

  • Picture Postcard Picton

    9. februar 2020, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Woke up this morning to a beautiful view from our balcony as we sailed up the Marlborough Sound into picturesque Picton. It was a beautiful sunny morning, so we had breakfast out on deck surrounded by rolling hills covered in trees, and the aquamarine of the water.

    From the small but attractive village we were spoiled for choice for activities both on and off the water. We opted for a scenic tour in a comfortable Mercedes van (again the tour was similar to that offered by the ship but at half the price). Regrettably there was an issue with overbooking on our 6 passenger vehicle, resulting in a bit of a stand-off between two posh Australian retired schoolteachers and the rest of us. The school ma’ams pushed their way on board, and proceeded to correct our friendly local driver at every opportunity - teacher knows best! Our driver (who had relocated from Newcastle to New Zealand ten years ago - I can’t think why!). pointed out there were wild pigs and goats all round. ‘I would kill them all off if they are not indigenous to the area’ declared the elder Miss Jean Brodie. It was on the tip of my tongue to ask if she was Aboriginal and therefore indigenous to Australia.

    The surrounding viewpoints our driver took us to were nothing short of magnificent - breathtaking vistas and a stunning ancient Maori site.

    It is from Picton that the only ferry services operate to Wellington on the North Island. We had a long time ashore today from 9am till 7.30pm, so we had plenty of time to explore and sit with a coffee and let the world go by. What an idyllic place to visit and on such a perfect day.

    Back on board we noted that we had been joined by a few more ‘celebrities’ - Liza Minnelli, Don Estelle, Eleanor Roosevelt, Rolf Harris, and several prominent members of the Glasgow Light Opera Club.
    Læs mere

  • Wonderful Wellington

    10. februar 2020, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Arrived in NZ’s capital city this morning. Often known as Windy Wellington, we were blessed with another beautiful day. We took a free tour of the Parliament Building known as The Beehive (for obvious reasons), and designed by Scottish architect Sir Basil Spence. Although based on the British system, it now operates on a system of proportional representation with only one house (of Representatives) - UK take note.

    We then took the famous Wellington cable car one way up, and walked all the way back via the beautiful Botanic Gardens, stopping for coffee in the lovely rose garden on the way. Our final attraction was the fabulous Te Papa Tongarewa - the National Museum of New Zealand, and we benefitted from a great guide who showed is the highlights of New Zealand history and Maori treasures. A highlight of our visit was a special exhibition telling the story of the Gallipoli campaign in World War 1 though the eyes of NZ soldiers. The exhibition featured huge lifelike figures (2.5 larger than life size) with amazing detail. I remembered that my Mum’s Uncle John fought in the Dardanelles in 1915 and wrote a poem about the experience which was published. I still have a copy somewhere.

    Another ‘character’ has emerged amongst our fellow passengers, who reminded us our dear departed friend Jean. Dining alone (table for one, please), she was always surrounded by young waiters, entertaining them with her stories. Last night we had a film showing of BBC’s Life on Earth 2 accompanied a live orchestra. ‘Of course you realise I’m a founder member of the World Wildlife Fund’ announced Jean to anyone who would listen ‘and David has painted me lots of pictures which I have shown in my gallery’. David, it emerged was none other than Mr Attenborough himself!
    Læs mere

  • Notable Napier

    11. februar 2020, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A lovely morning visit to the town of Napier - almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and rebuilt in the modernist style of the day - Art Deco. We took a small tour with one of the town’s Art Deco experts who gave us an interesting history of the town both pre and post earthquake. It seems the ground was raised by 2 metres, and a huge area of new land was created from a shallow lagoon and swamp area. Some fabulous buildings including the Daily Telegraph and National Tobacco Company.

    On our return we joined a Q&A session with the singers and dancers and had a backstage tour of the theatre. Question from an audience member to the cast: ‘Can you tell us the topics Holland America does not allow you to discuss with the passengers?’ Duh...

    It was very hot today and we were glad to get back on board to the AC. Jean was asked by a helpful crew member if she was going to the dining room for a late lunch and was heard to reply: ‘No, I’m dining on my balcony!’ Hopefully there was no forced laughter! (Ken and Bill - you’ll recognise that).
    Læs mere

  • Halcyon Hobbiton

    12. februar 2020, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We arrived at our penultimate (meaning ‘beyond the ultimate’ according to the real Jean) port of Tauranga very early this morning. Another beautiful sunny day - the weather has been warmer in the North Island of New Zealand. Once ashore we decided to go on a tour to Hobbiton, where the Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies were filmed. (Again this trip was half the cost of the ship’s version).

    Again we had a lovely, friendly and knowledgeable local guide - Garry - who stopped off at a couple of interesting spots: a local viewpoint; a Manuka Honey shop (with free honey flavoured ice cream), and a kiwi orchard 🥝.

    It was great to visit Hobbiton and see the familiar Hobbit holes. Everything was well organised and we had our own young guide, Caleb, on our 2 hour tour, who amused us with anecdotes from the movies, and pointed out where key scenes were filmed. We had one LOTR nerd in our group who kept interrupting and correcting the guide: ‘You see I was actually in the movies’ he explained. It turned out he was one of several hundred Orc extras. I took great pleasure in telling him that I was friends with Billy Boyd who played Pippin, one of the main Hobbits. As Jean would say, ‘ten up ye!’. The nerd’s Goth daughter and boyfriend subsequently took the opportunity to get engaged outside Sam Gamgee’s cottage, much to everyone’s delight. Our tour ended up at the Green Dragon pub where we were refreshed with complimentary Hobbit sized ‘pints’ of cider. Ah, just the job! 🍺

    Hobbiton is a great place to visit and highly recommended if you are in the area.
    Læs mere

  • Awesome Auckland

    15. februar 2020, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Sadly disembarked the ship after a wonderful cruise to spend our last two days in Auckland, New Zealand’s biggest city where a third of the country’s population reside. Campbell’s Über app is coming in handy - very quick to arrive and half the price of the usual taxis. Like elsewhere in NZ (and indeed Australia), everyone has been very friendly and helpful - even the local bus drivers - it’s just like being back on the No. 57 😋.

    We were booked into the pleasant Quality Hotel in the residential suburb of Parnell. It is a lovely area, with a rose garden nearby and lovely Victorian villas. First stop was a trip up the Sky Tower - the tallest building in Southern Hemisphere. Great views over the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. This is Pride week with lots of events, so we attended a play called Provocation, based on true stories of murderers who had their sentence reduced because their victim was gay. Great acting and thought provoking.

    Next day we took a hop-on hop-off bus tour which which gave us a good overview of the city. Visited the lovely Auckland Zoo which was beautifully laid out, and seems to do a lot of work with endangered species. Our favourites were the cheeky meerkats. We then had a short ferry trip to the seaside resort of Devonport - a welcome relief from the busy city. At night we attended another Pride event - a stand-up comedy night with 8 top NZ comedians - hilarious!

    Today, on our last morning in Auckland, we arranged to meet up with my cousin David and his partner Brigitte, who had just flown over for Valentines from Australia. We enjoyed a long leisurely breakfast in their hotel and had a great catch up. Soon it was time to leave for the airport and face a long journey home 😕.
    Læs mere

  • Robert's Round Up

    15. februar 2020, Singapore ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    After a smooth 10 hour flight from Auckland we have arrived in Singapore, only to find our next plane - the 14 hour flight to London has been delayed by two hours due to the bad weather (Storm Dennis) in the UK. While we are waiting I thought I would reflect on our holiday experience over the past 4 weeks.

    In terms of the flights, Singapore Airlines was excellent, with good meals and refreshments on demand. On check-in at Auckland today, a very helpful SA staff member assisted us, and changed our allocated seats to give us extra legroom seats for the first leg of our journey. Great!

    The hotels booked on our behalf by Cruise Nation were all of a very good standard. We were pleasantly surprised at how much we liked both Australia and New Zealand - everywhere was so clean, and the people were exceptionally helpful and friendly. A great sense of humour was evident throughout. The smaller places we visited all seem to have utilised local volunteers (often retirees), who gave us a beaming smile and warm welcome, along with free maps of the area and helpful suggestions about local attractions. We were surprised to discover that tipping is not expected (compared with USA where it is virtually compulsory). The standard of living seems high, and workers seem to earn a good wage, without needing to depend on tips. We also loved the beautiful plants and vegetation, as well as the huge variety of colourful birds.

    Another interesting thing we noted in Australia was the extensive referencing to the country’s Aboriginal past - statements were read out before the opera, museum tours, TV programmes etc to the effect that it was important to recognise Australia’s indigenous people and culture. Australia Day coverage on TV highlighted the division in the country in as much as many people do not share the celebration of the arrival of British sovereignty with the first British ships on 26 January 1788. They instead refer to it as Invasion Day, mourning what is seen as the invasion of the land by the British and the start of colonisation. In New Zealand the indigenous Maori culture now seems to be part of everyday life for most New Zealanders, with the Maori language being taught in schools and spoken in the country’s parliament.

    In terms of the cruise, we were very impressed with our first experience of the Holland America Line. The food and service were excellent and all the staff and crew (mostly Indonesian) were cheery, well mannered and helpful. The entertainment was perhaps more sedate than that on some of the larger Royal Caribbean ships we have been on, but the production shows were very good and the ship did have franchises with the Lincoln Center Stage and BB Kings Blues Club. As we have cruised with a variety of different lines, we noticed a number of ‘extras’ not normally included unless an upgraded stateroom is purchased eg we had included: bathrobes, Elemis toiletries; daily fresh fruit in the cabin; complimentary room service 24 hours a day (no cover charge); good quality real napkins at all meals (including at the Lido buffet); real hand towels in all the bathrooms on the ship; free ice cream; and delicious free Five Guys-type burgers, hot dogs and tacos. Our cruise was the last for our Captain John Scott, and there was an emotional ceremony on deck as he rang the bell before entering his home port of Auckland for the last time.

    We picked up a few useful local words and phrases in Australia - Bonzer (good), Bogan (ned), Strewth! (It’s the truth) Yabber (to talk a lot).
    And in New Zealand - The Dairy (convenience store), Kia Ora (hello), Yeah-nah (yes, but I don’t agree with you), Sweet As (wonderful).

    All in all a wonderful holiday with many happy memories to treasure.
    Læs mere

  • Home Sweet Home

    16. februar 2020, Skotland ⋅ 🌬 4 °C

    Thanks to Mags and Christine for their warm welcome home and some great Scottish cooking - mince and tatties with dumplings, followed by rice pudding and gingerbread, and a lovely cuddle from our two favourites. Now off to bed after our 40 hour journey home. 💤Læs mere

    Slut på rejsen
    16. februar 2020