Kirkenes,Norway

Kirkenes , the top of the world…
Today was such an absolute delight , we both enjoyed it so much.
Seemed an out of the way, unknown place, with not a lot to offer, BUT, it was anything but. Kirkenes is far away from anything, at the top of the world. However this is a fine example of nations simply living side by side ,and making the best of what each other has to share, and that they do. Norway ,Kirkenes belongs to, shares a close border with Russia, and Finland.
Raindrops on the windows as we set out, but it improved ,and we had the most interesting few hours you could imagine. The border with Russia is just minutes from town, and so from years back they shared an electricity plant, on their largest river, that worked, borders not so defined then, someone in power wanted to fight for a border ,no said King Olaf, Russia respects God, so we will build a church and that shall define, and so it did [ Orthodox church] and now of course ,with a war between ,it is much more defined ,but still relaxed and no animosity and they say Oslo, and Moscow can do whatever, but they will live peacefully on…Russia did take Finland soil, and now they are blocked from the Barnet Sea ,a place of wealth of course ,so ongoing as to what may happen there… A brief picture and it is so, so much more.. They suffered terribly with Nazi Germany, who occupied, here and they lived in the mining tunnels ,people died and were born there ,terrible hardship..as Hitler wanted Murmansk ,in 2 weeks ,but that plan failed ,due to storms and bitter cold ,when both sides died of the unseasonal , terrible, cold..then this part of Norway was liberated by Russia in 1944,so they were the first to be saved… From way back then ,they have reason to be thankful to Russia for some things. Like all countries their indigenous peoples have suffered badly, the Sami, who are Fins, Russians and Norwegians have had some rights restored ,but many are not , and they have been ashamed to be what they are, like most countries.. Reindeer out number the people in these parts, but we didn’t see them today..
They have a 200,000 person shelter built underground, after the war, it stands today.
We set out through a town, that is growing with Tourism , Northern Lights and then summer.Russia is here for fishing and repairs of vessels, huge iron ore mining in the past ,has now ended, our destination was Grense Jakobselv ,and Arctic Ocean Beach… 3 Lakes surround the town ,quite large, just named 1,2 and 3 as they have unpronounceable Sami names…pretty countryside ,low birch forest ,so very green with an undergrowth of pretty ferns. Reminiscent of New Found land. Many Inlets, tarns ,and Fjords along the way, and we stopped and walked at the oldest mountain in Norway, said to be 300 million years old..sheer rock and quite amazing to comprehend. Pretty little wildflowers.They have Moose, Bears, Lynx ,Wolverine roaming wild, but the reindeer are all owned. ,and taxed… On towards Grense Jakobselv , on the Barnett Sea ,inhabited until the 60’s but because in winter the road is inaccessible, and people want civilisation ,it slowly waned, there were little farms, fishing in the rivers and sea ,and people managed well . Our bus drivers Mother had come from a Family of 13, the youngest, so he was very good in telling us of their lives, one last Aunt had stayed until 91, and the last permanent resident to leave ,after a winter alone.. but many summer houses are in the area ,just little and small ,and people love to come for hunting [strictly controlled] and fishing .King Olav’s church [1869],is a lovely testament of care, kept pristine and its cemetery around, so interesting ,with Russian, Sami, Norwegian, and Finnish people within. When you die ,you return to the place of your birth, if possible…
The journey out was 45ks, spectacular ,the rugged, mountainous landscape looked almost prehistoric ,probably is,the sheer size of some of the huge boulders, some snow still in shaded places, and then the pretty forest to soften, the rivers, the one that is a border, very shallow and easy to paddle over, but one must not pass the centre, but you can fish…There are border towers to be seen,[both sides] and the border with Russia, is defined by lining up large markers on the hillsides above, plus a fence along the river on the Russian side. As if anyone would have wanted to come in… little own stay.!!! They think they are un manned now.They can easily pass through the border crossings..
The beach on the Barnet Sea, at what seems to be the end of the world, and sort of is, but for Islands, so lovely, calm and many sea birds, we had time to walk and enjoy, a very memorable place. Our guide was special, she didn’t say some of her letters like K’s ,and of course it is translation, and added ss’s ,as in the Reindeers .Very endearing ,we liked her lots, very knowledgeable and informative ,with the driver to add some, it was such a learning curve. Even away up here they still have small farms, summer growth providing what is needed, they have the Gulf Stream, and that helps, still an intense winter, but not complete darkness, 4 hours of low light, but no sun ,I cannot imagine how terrible ,but when It’s your home ,you have lived like that always. Just now NO darkness ,and that is a challenge as well..


From the border near the town of Kirkenes you can cross any time if you are residents in a radius of 30 ks, so they go all the time ,to Russia, and the Russians come every day, to their Kirkenes shops , all very convivial.. we live in peace they said, easily… We loved our day at the end of the world, and so thankful to be able to come ,such a highlight ,and I can never remember everything..
Met very amusing Canadians at drinks, a Historian from Scotland originally, and just such delightful ladies ,they had many tales to tell us .Gillian and Ann, who we look forward to seeing again.. Much Laughter…
Sailing south again now ,with new places to enjoy for several days ahead..Read more