• Blue Brute Adventures
  • Blue Brute Adventures

South America - Part 3

Third and last time to the continent. Wrapping up with the West and North. Les mer
  • The World’s Highest (navigable) Lake

    7. juni 2024, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We escape La Paz, manage to find some diesel (not easy in Bolivia), and head to the Southern shores of Lake Titicaca. Of course the trip requires another dodgy ferry ride, but we arrive safely at our camp site on the edge of Copacabana (the other one). The lake is clear, surrounded by (really high) snow-capped mountains and you’re never far from Inca ruins.Les mer

  • Breathing Easy

    10. juni 2024, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Before we headed north to Peru, we decided to get a quick reprieve from the altitude and headed for the coast and a final couple of days in (very northern) Chile. The route was south-west from Lake Titicaca along Bolivia’s Ruta 4 with its amazing views of snow-capped Volcanos along the way. Two days later we arrived in the Chilean sea-side city of AricaLes mer

  • Back to the Hills

    13. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After a few days on the coast, we head back inland and into the Andes. Not too high to start with, about 2,500m, when we visit Peru’s second largest city, Arequipa. Surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes, it has a vibrant city centre with a magnificent cathedral and an amazing four hundred year old convent, only recently turned over to the public.Les mer

  • Birds, Big Birds!

    15. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Just a “short” drive over another 5,000m pass and we set up camp at Colca Canyon. Only discovered a couple of decades ago (if you don’t count the indigenous farmers who have been there for centuries), it is one of the world’s deepest canyons (deeper than the Grand Canyon) and home to dozens of Condors. They put on a great show in the morning, using the thermals and their massive 3 metre wing-spans to effortlessly drift past. So, lots of bird photos. Another fun fact, to the East of the Canyon (last photo) is Nevado Mismi (you can just make out its snow capped peaks - the source of the Amazon.Les mer

  • Cusco

    18. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our visit to Cusco coincides with festival of the sun celebrations. Plenty of colour, (weird) floats and traditional costumes. Inca stone-work walls are plentiful amongst the sea of terracotta roofing. Away from the tourist areas, the central market is frantic and the streets become increasingly narrow.Les mer

  • The Sacred Valley

    20. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    The Sacred Valley - including the towns of Ollantaytambo, Pisa, Chinchero and Maras - is a worthy competitor to Machu Picchu. The Inca ruins are comprehensive, with an amazing capacity to cling to the side of (very) steep mountain sides. Very, very impressive engineering and building. The Maras Salt ponds are no less impressive, where the Inca’s harnessed a mineral-rich creek to provide salt for the region (and is still in use today)Les mer

  • Machu Picchu

    22. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Well, it’s one of the seven wonders, so it had to be on the list (5 down, 2 to go). And Machu Picchu is impressive - its location, the engineering and the construction. It’s just a pity Peru makes it so hard and so expensive to get to - and with recent changes it’s getting more so.Les mer

  • Back to the Coast (Again)

    24. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Lima is the medium-term target, so we need to get back to the coast. The drive, via the mountain cities of Andahuaylas and Ayacucho is stunning. The towns themselves are buzzing with life and it’s good to get away from the tourist hordes. But it is the drive that is most amazing. We are constantly under-estimating the size of the Andes. Google says it is about 900km and will take almost 20 hours. Surely not (by the way, Google maps are a terrible source of information and directions for South America - you need a second source). But Google was correct. The roads are in good condition and there is not much traffic outside of the towns, but the ascending and descending is something to be experienced. On this trip we climbed (and went down) six major ranges. And by major, I mean climbs of 3,000+ metres (10,000 + feet in the old scale). On this segment of the trip we climbed and accumulated 19,000 metres, and went down over 21,000 metres.Les mer

  • Insta-Famous Huacachina

    25. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    It was on the way and there was a reasonable campground, so we spent our first night back at sea level at Huacachina. Instagram famous for being an oasis in the desert, in reality it is little more than a handful of bars, restaurants, and hostels around a not-so lovely small lake. And rather than the remote, wilderness location it is often presented as, in reality it is only a couple of kms from a city of one million people. But enough criticism. It is a unique location amongst the white sand dunes, hosting a multitude of sand-related activities and we enjoyed our single night.Les mer

  • The Nation’s Capital

    28. juni 2024, Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    It’s a long day’s drive up the coast to Lima. Desert all the way to the coastline, with the only greenery the occasional river valley heading to the sea. It could be starkly beautiful if it wasn’t for the rubbish. The pollution along the entire Peruvian coast really is a national shame. Lima is a very large city, with less fortunate outer suburbs surrounding the old, original capital and the inner, coastal wealthy neighbourhoods. We enjoyed our few days and caught up with some admin, but a lingering memory will be the overwhelming greyness of the city caused by the constant fog which is produced by a meeting of cold coastal air and the warmer desert air. Apparently, it is like this for most of the year.Les mer

  • The World’s Largest Adobe City

    2. juli 2024, Peru ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    From Lima we head north along the coast for two days. Unfortunately, it’s a replica of the south coast, with the stunning desert coastline terribly polluted with trash. The primary objective is the ancient Chimu capital of Chan Chan dating back to 600 AD. It’s the largest adobe city in the world and work is being done to slowly reclaim the site from the desert sands. It’s huge, extending over many square kms, but unfortunately you only get to see a small segment at the moment (but you do get a feel for the original size). We base ourselves in the small seaside town of Huanchaco, which is a known surfing location. The surf was quite good, but the pollution put us off diving in. We also explored the neighbouring city of Trujillo.Les mer

  • Where the Empire Ended

    4. juli 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After Chan Chan, we head inland and back up into the mountains. This is the Peru we like! The people are more friendly and the pollution diminishes significantly. And the Andes never cease to amaze. Our first location is Cajamarca, which is where the Inca empire was effectively ended by the Spaniards. It’s an interesting story. After years of civil war with his brother, Inca king Atahualpa, had recently taken control of the Inca empire when he agreed to meet with Spanish conquistador Pizarro in the main square of Cajamarca. Atahualpa turned up with 7,000 soldiers in largely ceremonial attire, while Pizarro turned up with less than 200 Spanish troops. Negotiations quickly deteriorated into a battle, which Pizarro won comprehensively (aided by firearms and cavalry). Thousands of Incas were killed whereas Pizarro lost only a handful of soldiers. Atahualpa was taken hostage and a ransom was negotiated. The agreed ransom was to fill the room in which Atahualpa was being held - 22 feet x 17 feet and “as high as a hand could reach” - once with gold and twice with silver. The ransom was paid, but the Spanish still killed Atahualpa and, as they say, the rest is history. Cajamarca today is a very pleasant small city, with thermal baths and you can still visit the “ransom room”.Les mer

  • Another Ancient Capital

    6. juli 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Prior to the Incas, the Chachapoyas built their mountain-top city: Fortaleza de Kuelap (Kuelap for short). The north-east of Peru is well off the primary tourist routes, and this 1,000 year old complex receives only a small number of tourists (at one point, we were the only ones there). It was the heart of the Chachapoya empire for over 500 years until taken over (with much difficulty and over many years) by the Incas. The Peruvian government is trying to enhance the profile of the complex, referring it to “the Machu Picchu of the north”, but drawing more tourists to the site, which is well worth visiting, will be hampered for a long time due to the difficulty (and time required) to get to the area.Les mer

  • Gocta Falls

    8. juli 2024, Peru ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The steep Eastern Andes is home to dozens of waterfalls, but few are as impressive as Gocta Falls. Hidden away in a remote valley above the village Cocachimba, at one point it was declared to be the fourth highest falls in the world. Some technicalities led to it slipping a few places over the past decade, but it is no less impressive.Les mer

  • Made it to Ecuador

    10. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We finish our time in Peru and cross the border into Ecuador at the very quiet (and remote) border crossing at La Balza. The staff on both sides of the border were wonderful and probably a bit excited that they had some customers. In our two hours at the border crossing point we were the only vehicle that headed north and only one other headed south. In-processing on the Ecuador side was done via a very slim WhatsApp link (the customs official had to go outside and stand on something high to transmit and receive). And, most importantly, another flag for the TroopyLes mer

  • South, Central Ecuador

    14. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Southern Ecuador is very pleasant. Stunning mountains and steep valleys. Very green. We spend time in the quaint town of Vilcabamba and the cities of Loja and Cuenca. Not surprisingly, this area is very popular with Western Expats. Vilcabamba has a lovely square and over-supply of cafes, Loja has some beautiful and unique town squares, and Cuenca has more churches per capital than anywhere else we’ve been to. Fun fact, Cuenca is the “home” of the Panama hat.Les mer

  • Guinea Pigs and Mt Chimborazo

    17. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    We’ve decided to stick with the Andes route through Ecuador. Such a trip would be incomplete without a visit to the (dormant) Chimborazo volcano, Ecuador’s highest peak at almost 6,300m. We do a circumnavigation by road, climbing to almost 4,500m through snow showers (we’re less than 200km from the equator!). Guinea pigs are a local delicacy and we find time to visit one of the Inca’s most northern cities at Ingapirca.Les mer

  • So Many Waterfalls

    19. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Next on our agenda is the scenic town of Baños, tucked into a steep-sided valley and known for its thermal springs and waterfalls. Only a few weeks prior to our arrival the valley was devastated by heavy rains that caused many landslides resulting in over a dozen deaths. The town is literally digging itself out from the damage. While a number of sites were closed, we were still able to experience the thermal springs and visit many of the waterfalls.Les mer

  • The Crater Loop

    21. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    The Crater Loop takes us around Laguna Quilotoa, an (almost) 4,000m high crater lake, the result of the Quilotoa volcano blowing its top (a long time ago). The route includes the regional city of Latacunga, the Zumbahua canyon, and the steep sided, vibrant green, cloud -covered valleys around Sigchos.Les mer

  • Volcan Cotopaxi

    22. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Although often cloud covered, Volcan Cotopaxi dominates the skyline of central Ecuador. Clearly visible from the capital, Quito, at just under 6,000m it is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It last erupted less than two years ago and produces regular earthquakes.Les mer

  • Crossing the Equator

    24. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We cross the equator (manage to get half of the Troopy in each hemisphere) just north of Quito and spend a couple of days in the jungle oasis of Mindo. Water falls, dodgy cable-cars and hummingbirds.

  • La Gruta de la Paz

    26. juli 2024, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    On our last day in Ecuador we take a slight diversion off the main road to the border to visit a unique church called La Gruta de La Paz. Developed on the site of a “miracle” a few hundred years ago, the locals have built a church in a cave where an underground river comes to the surface.Les mer