Malawi Day 04: Luwawa

Yesterday, we arrived in the dark, greeted warmly and shown to our room, navigating a tricky path but no hippos. The room or more a little cottage, typically African with red painted concrete floor and African batiques on the wall; hot water from a fire driven donkey and a toilet where the flush creates an unattractive whirl that is totally ineffective in performing its desired function. That said, in Africa, anything is better than going outside at night.
The evening had been charming - cosy fire in cosy lounge; chats with the 3 other guests. Dinner was a choice of, for entrée, pumpkin soup; a main of coq au vin; chocolate brownie with home made custard for dessert. All absolutely gorgeous. The wine was Drostdyhof in a box, so left it in the box (having been a student at the University of Cape Town, I knew what this stuff could do to you).
Patrick is the birding guide - an encyclopaedic knowledge and an uncanny ability, while holding a conversation, to hear and identify a distant bird call. So this morning found us wandering through the bush with him and a man with a very big camera- the biggest I have ever seen. This was the purpose of his visit to Malawi and I get why, having run out of fingers and toes counting new birds: batis and bishop, whydah and widow bird, thrush and bunting … you name it. He knew them all … and their relatives.
After that, a restful day and another evening walk with the binoculars. The evening is spent chatting with other guests and another great meal from largely local produce.Read more