Malawi 07: Mantchewe Falls

After yesterday’s emotional whirlwind, a gentle stroll to the waterfall felt right. Paid our permissions and met our guide, Chimwemwe (Happy Jo if you cannot say that), and joined by our driver, MacDonald.
Stopped at Jo the carver (surprise!) on the way out and promised to buy something on the way back.
The walk down was as close you get to abseiling as you can get without actually abseiling! A steep bush bash with the promise of an endless plunge should you stray from the path. It was a warm day and was burning up and had no hesitation taking my shirt off and standing under the waterfall to cool down.
There had been no suggestion that this was a spectacular and deeply spiritual place with a sad and sober history. But it was.
Tribespeople, in an effort to escape the Arab slave traders, carved out a shelter behind the waterfall and hid there. Years later, the locals established a hydroelectric plant to power the local village. Very much a theme in Malawi - the government collects taxes and the aid moneys, but doesn’t waste it on providing services to the people.
The people seem to accept this corruption and incompetence and carry on with their lives and find a way.
Anyway, made it back to the top and stopped for a beer at Lovers Nest Restaurant- basically a tin shelter with warm beer, and a spectacular view over the lake.
The evening was spent chatting with some young folk from Canada, Poland and France. Some had travelled from North Africa using only public transportation. Lots of fun stories.Read more