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Walking in Wales
  • Grant Mills
  • Grant Mills

Walking in Wales

Offa’s Dyke Path from Prestatyn to Chepstow Baca lagi
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  • Permulaan perjalanan
    26 Mei 2025
    Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    Start of Llwybr Clawdd Offa (Offa's Dyke Path)
    1… bloody styles…"4looking back t'ward the coast1… time for a beer

    Day 01: Prestatyn to Bodfari

    28 Mei 2025, Wales ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Starting at an art piece, a statue where at the start of the southerly excursion, the morning sun shines through the circle at the top, and at the finish of the northerly hike, the evening sun shines through from the other side. The sun was not shining this morning as we set out, so we’re left to imagine the moment. Instead, it was chilly as we commenced the big climb out of Prestatyn up to the plateau. Then the rain started and on went the ponchos.
    This track is not as developed as those we have done in Italy and France. We thought we could get some food along the way, but no, we not only did not encounter any cafes or pubs, there were not even any toilets. Luckily we had each packed a banana and an apple, which somehow kept us going for 21 strenuous kilometres.
    This hike is notoriously known for its styles and gates, being a path through predominantly farm properties.
    The day ended in the town of Bodfari, and there being a delightful pub called Dinorben Arms which had delightful beer for weary walkers.

    Stats: 21.7 km; 7 hours, 760 m elevation gain; average HR 87

    Birds: chiff chaff, blue tit, song thrush, euro robin, blackcap, jackdaw to name some. The birdsong was delightful.    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    … down in the shelter of the valleys
    a bit windy up herewhen you hat gets blown off …… waiting for The Red Lion to openlaneway in LlangynhafalGetting blown away on The Clwydian Range

    Day 02: Bodfari to Llangynhafal

    29 Mei 2025, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I think the stand-out today has to be WIND and HILLS. Hiking along the ridge of the Clwydian Range. A strong wind from the west. A wind that blew my hiking poles away. And no trees for shelter. Luckily the rain stayed away otherwise we would have been in trouble. Hills - they don’t seem to do contours much here. Just go straight up then down the other side.

    Having said that, the valleys were charming- quaint towns and farm houses and sheep. It’s like one big sheep paddock, really. Forests and natural vegetation cleared for grazing. Though it seems there is an effort to reestablish trees and some natural vegetation for the benefit of the wildlife.

    Actually , the real highlight today is the hamlet of Llangynhafal, pronounced “Sand and Gravel” and the Red Lion Inn, where we are staying. Built in 1790 or so. Became a pub in 1820 or so. Bryan and Sue run it now. Bryan loves a chat and pouring Guinness, which does very well and sometimes has some Guinness while doing this. Having walked all day, it is nice to be able to walk down one flight of stairs and have Brian waiting beside the Guinness tap.

    Perhaps we will have Welsh language lesson in the next day or so - once I get the phonetics sorted.

    Stats today: Distance 12.8 km, 4.3 hours; Altitude gain 791 m; Average HR 85. That is a lot of UP over a relatively short distance.

    Bird highlights: redstart, willow warbler, meadow pipit. Though we may have not met these birds before, they are endemic to the area.    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    … still more hillsPatchwork clearings for meadow regrowth for grouseRuthin Castle entranceKing Charles I

    Day 03 Llangynhafal to Ruthin

    30 Mei 2025, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Brian, the publican of The Red Lion, man with a large red nose and facial spider naevi, a large abdomen and atrial fibrillation, told us of a short cut to get back up to the trail this morning.
    As the Path runs along the ridge of the Clwydian range, there is no accommodation and we have to descend into the valley at the end of each day, adding significant distance and vertical gain to our walk.
    But being in these villages, we have had a great time meeting the locals in the hotels and pubs. The Welsh folk have been so friendly and love a chat and a beer.
    Some serious retired money lives in this area now, giving it a rejuvenated feel.
    The weather was kinder today: a relatively gentle breeze and cloud clearing to sun. In fact, quite warm when we descended into Rhuthin.
    We are staying in Ruthin castle, built originally in 1277-1284 by Edward I, King of England, and granted to Dafydd so Gryffydd the last Welsh Prince. King Charles stayed here before becoming Prince of Wales! Nice spot. Now a hotel also used for functions. In fact, this evening there was an outdoor open mic session. Very hippy atmosphere.

    Stats: 14.6 km; 5.4 hours; 548 m altitude gain; average HR 80

    Birds: sky lark, kestrel, buzzard; dobbin, willow warbler etc.

    Tomorrow to another town starting with two L’s.    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    Moel Fenlli with Jubilee Fort behind and Liverpool distantStiles in styleLlangollen and Dee RiverAquaduct in Llangollen

    Day 04 Ruthin to Llandegla

    31 Mei 2025, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Felt a bit ragged arriving in Ruthin so took the soft option a got a ride back up to the trail. The guy transferring our bags dropped us off. That saved us 5 km mostly uphill, without missing any of the trail. A good decision as I think we were both hitting a physiological low. This usually happens after about 5 days, but we got it early.
    So we are now in Llangollen, beautiful and popular town on the Dee River and famous for the Ponsycyllte Aquaduct. Used during the industrial revolution to transport cotton and other goods, it is now for leisure long boats and tourists. The Dee is attractive for its dramatic setting with rapids and pub verandas overlooking the river; both popular for kayaking and white water rafting.
    The path today took us gently down off the Clwydian Range into the fertile valley on the east side; countryside more picturesque with spring flowers, woodland and farm houses scattered about. A pleasant change from the treeless sheep country of the last few days.
    Stats: 14.6 km; 4:30 hours; 530 m elevation gain; average HR 83

    New birds: willow warbler, grey wagtail    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    Worlds End ReserveEglwys ValleyCastell Dinas Bran in the background

    Day 05 Landegla to Llangollen

    1 Jun 2025, Wales ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    From the quaint village of Llandegla, a steepish climb up into the Llandegla Forest. On the way out of town, we met an old man who lived in a horse box ( he looked and smelled like an old man who lived in a horse box). He said he wanted to go to Australia and do the whole thing. We were charmed - the joys of doing a slow walk.
    A mostly spruce forest feeding the local paper mill. Also plenty mountain bike trails. But nice to be among the trees again after days of treeless sheep paddocks. Trees thinned into an upland moor, the path paved with large slate slabs. This area is renowned as a black grouse breading area, but we saw none - they hide in the heath.
    The weather varied by the minute - warm and humid in the forest to windy and chilly on the moors, the occasional shower of rain to liven things up.
    The path descended into Eglwyseg valley or Worlds End, a steep valley with limestone cliffs on one side, old limestone kilns and the odd medieval castle ruins along the way. We got lost due to some dodgy map work ( their fault not ours) and ended up climbing a tree to get over a barbed wire fence.
    Back to Llangollen a pint of bitter (B&P Original) and a roast pork dinner at a table overlooking the Dee River.

    Stats: 16.4 km; 5:30 hrs; 482 m alt gain; HR 77 so an easier day.
    Orthopaedic/podiatric report is good    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    The ridge above LlangollenPontcysyllte Aquaduct at TrevorThe AquaductLlangollen canalChirk CastleChirk Castle

    Day 06 Llangollen to Chirk

    2 Jun 2025, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    A long day, but pleasant and varied. Climbed out of the valley. Great views back over Llangollen, up onto the ridge, through lovely woodlands and down the other side to Trevor and the canal. It was so nice to be out of the sheep overgrazed bareness of the northern range. Here it is green and lush and full of birdsong. And the history becomes more real: Offa king of Mercia in 8th century; King Henry II and his attempted “Total annihilation of the Welsh race” and the Battle of Crogen 1165; building of the Pontcysyllte Aquaduct on 1805. All there around us. The awesome wrought iron gates of Chirk Castle built over 300 years ago.
    And around the corner, the Cadbury factory and caravan park.
    We stay tonight in The Hand Hotel in Chirk, built around 1600 - not a modern hotel. You can almost feel what it was like 200 or 400 years ago.
    The last section of the path was a bit tricky - flood had damaged the path descending into Chirk from the south; a dislodged bridge successfully negotiated.
    Tomorrow I think we will get bus 64 to Chirk Mill to rejoin the Path and avoid retracing our path back up there.
    Oh and by the way, we clocked 100 km today! Yay.
    Stats: 21.25 km; 7:20 hours; 565 altitude gain; HR 78    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    Cute co.... oops, BULL
    1Chirk Castle in backSigns of spring… in and out of Wales and England

    Day 07 Chirk to Llanymynech

    3 Jun 2025, England ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    It is so deep to be standing in history. Rome abandoned Britain in 410 CE. Thus followed a contest for this land - a land grab by the lord of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms, Offa of Mercia. Conflict with Welsh princes ensued and many great battles. Offa, well resourced, built the Dyke to help repel the naughty Welsh.
    In the Battle of Crogan, the Welsh routed the British. But later, in 1282, the Welch were overrun by the forces of Edward I. Chirk castle was built and the March lords protected the border. From 1400, Owain Glyndwr lead a sustained revolt against the English until 1415 it came to an and he disappeared, falling into legend.
    Today was tough - long distance, lots of ups and downs, and still tired after yesterday. After a big breakfast, we jumped on bus 64 to Castle Mill, back on the path. This saved us a few kilometres. And then a long steep climb. The general mood was not good.
    Cute cows and ponies made things a bit better but still a challenging day.
    Such an interesting area and plenty to see and do.
    Pearl-bordered fritillaries, green hairstreak, grizzled and dingy skippers - these are …. butterflies. Conservationists are re-establishing the wild by protecting sections of land from grazing and allowing wildlife back in.
    Finally, we made it to the Bradford Arms, a traditional pub with charm and history. Being a free house, they had some local cask brews, and a good kitchen.

    Stats: 24.3 km; 8:47 hours; 833 m altitude gain!!!; HR 79.

    “I DREAM OF A BETTER WORLD WHERE CHICKENS CAN CROSS THE ROAD WITHOUT HAVING THEIR MOTIVES QUESTIONED”    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara

    Day 08 Llanymynech to Welshpool

    4 Jun 2025, Wales ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Today, the general mood moved into a lighter zone. The track was level, in fact was a tow path beside the Montgomery Canal all the way to the back door of our next lovely accommodation with a lovely lady welcoming us with a lovely cup of tea and a chocolate brownie. This, after a good night’s sleep. How lovely.
    As good as a day off. Made better by the pleasant environment and weather- a touch of chill at times, but sunny.
    Gone are the days of sheep rules all. Here there is a rewilding process. The canal, no longer in use by boats has now become a linear pond inhabited by the things that should inhabit nice ponds, like swans and ducks and little fish and damsel flies.
    Accommodation is at Moors Farm B&B whose main business is the pheasant hunting trade. We do protest at the racing or killing of animals for sport. If you want to maybe feel a bit better about it, the pheasant are bred (like chickens I guess) then released to the bush. Just when the pheasant think they having a good time, beaters drive them out of the bush and they fly off to heaven with a lump of lead in their chests. What is there to complain about.
    On a happy note, we did see, but not hear, a pair of mute geese with their cygnets. Plus their nest with one egg therein. See photo.
    Birds: mostly wrens and tits and the usual other suspects
    Stats: 16.4 km, 5:20 hours, altitude gain 28 m, HR 72 basically a flat easy walk    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    always good to get there
    on the dyke… half way up …happy hour

    Day 09 Welshpool to Montgomery

    5 Jun 2025, Wales ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    “There was a crooked man
    Who walked a crooked mile
    He found a crooked sixpence
    Upon a crooked stile”

    Now for a quick history lesson on the region we walk through:
    After a steep climb out of Welshpool, we reach the Beacon Ring hillfort (fort on top of a hill, see photo), which was built and occupied during the Iron Age, between about 700 BCE and 60 CE. It was defended by a large bank and ditch with two entrances. Later, the hillfort is said to have been used as a camp by Cadwallon, 'king of the Britons', during his battles with the Northumbrian king, Edwin in about 630 CE.
    The forces of Henry Tudor, the future Henry Vll, are said to have gathered near here in 1485, on the eve of the Battle of Bosworth, at which Richard Ill was killed.
    And later, this was again a battle field. The quiet fields near Montgomery Castle were the setting for the bloodiest Civil War battle fought on Welsh soil. On September 18th 1644, Parliamentary forces dealt a crushing blow to the attacking Royalist troops. The battle secured Cromwell (Oliver, whom Churchill described as a military dictator) a vital strongpoint and gateway into Wales.
    This crucial Severn River crossing has always been well defended. An Iron Age hillfort, Roman campaign fort, Norman motté and bailey and later stone castle, have all controlled the ford. It's no accident that Offa's Dyke divides the landscape here.

    Last night we stayed on a farm that was that for the castle many years ago. It now functions as a pheasant hunting estate, attracting shooters from far a wide and from high up, like royal families and wealthy industrialists. Henia, who runs the place gave us a fascinating insight into the world of hunting and game shooting. Like it or not, it happens and at BP70 per pheasant seems like good business. Now I know where the porcelain ducks on the wall thing comes from.

    On a personal note, feeling good and feel we are getting a bit fitter. The hills are still hills, but the ascending expletives have softened somewhat.

    Stats: 18.9 km, 6:00 hours, 516 m altitude gain (almost all at the start), HR 84
    Toilet count since start = 1

    Total from start: 161 km, 5062 m altitude    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    walking on the dykehalfway there2At The White Horse in Clun

    Day 10 Montgomery to Newcastle on Clun

    6 Jun 2025, England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Last year in France we had rain and a muddy slippery path and the hazards thereof. Here we appreciate a dry track, often beautiful grass, there having been a dry spring. The hazard here is that Wales is essentially a large sheep’s toilet. Strangely, despite an unusually large number of fences and stiles, there are equal numbers of sheep on both sides of the fence, from the same flock because you can tell because they are spray painted with bright markings.
    The path is well sign posted with a black acorn on yellow background, and an arrow. At least 90% of the signs point you in the correct direction.
    There were some pretty steep hills today. Despite that the general mood was not too bad. The Dyke was intended as a barrier and we have found it works well, especially today for people trying to walk on it.
    Once again, our accommodation is off-track. And today, we had to find a way to our accommodation, avoiding the busy country lanes which have no side walk. So we ended up using a bridleway, climbing fences and gates and crossing a river. Some of us were not amused.
    Anyway, it was worth it. Our hosts are great and they dropped us off at the White Horse, a 400 year old pub in Clun, where we sampled the local brew, which I highly recommend you do.
    Food: dinner was steak and kidney suet pudding, followed by some kind of cheesecake (shared, of course) - it was wonderful.
    Beer: Ludlow Best bitter and Clun pale ale
    Stats: 20.9 km, 7 hours; altitude gain 750 m; HR 83: strenuous but plenty of rest stops
    Good news: 9314 kJ burned - that equals lots of pie    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    weird door knocker
    waiting for the storm which never came… to Knightoncouple of climbs but not too bad

    Day 11 Newcastle on Clun to Knighton

    6 Jun 2025, England ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Headed out alone this morning. My hiking buddy was not feeling well, so got a taxi to Knighton.
    So just put my head down and off I went. Dealing with some toe tenderness, so worried about that. I added an extra inner sole to my shoes hoping this will help. Meticulous attention to feet is critical for these long walks. I think the tougher days take their toll a few days later.
    Also we are now taking medication for giardiasis. We got this in Italy two years ago so recognise the symptoms. Not pleasant.
    There are more people on the track now, so nice to stop and chat with them. One guys said there was a big thunderstorm on the way, but it ended up only a minor shower. I realise now how much I enjoyed the sense of common purpose and community of the French Camino/Chemin and all ending up on the same village end of day. I felt quite isolated today which could be good if you’re in that mood.
    I am a bit tired of walking through sheep shit, too. After this, the next sheep I see will be on the BBQ.
    Birds: yellowhammer (new bird for me), meadow pipit (looks like all other pipits), good red tailed kite and buzzard sightings - first time I have heard a raptor call on the wing.
    Stats: 12.8 km, 3:53 hours, 473 m altitude gain, HR 87 (quicker pace today), 5600 kJ
    Beer: Butty Bach ale from Wye Brewery
    Sorry about the lack of photos, but not much to take photo of …    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    200 km of sheep shit
    signage has had it challengesKington golf course

    Day 12 Knighton to Kington

    8 Jun 2025, Wales ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Milestone 200 km today. This has been more challenging than expected. And starting to feel it. The distances are a bit longer than we like; and the ups and owns make it tough on the feet and a bit more tiring. It does not help to be feeling unwell.
    That said, today was one of the more pleasant walking days - lovely views, fewer steep sections, nice variety, nice forests and cool conditions.

    Kington town. Sunday and quiet and we are tired. Retired to the hotel bar but local man swearing so badly we found another room to relax. Last night we had such a fun time in the pub in Knighton - the locals were in high spirits, some joining us at our table and making us feel totally welcome in their pub.

    Stats: 23.2 km, 7:21 hours, 762 altitude gain, HR 83, 6884/9780 kJ (active/total)
    Cumulative: 218 km, toilets 1, benches 3, food vans serving French crepes and good coffee 0.    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    Garden sculptures Hay Castle
    Monkey puzzle trees KingtonNewchurchyou would be excused for missing this turnThe Keep, Hay Castle

    Day 13 Kington to Hay on Wye

    9 Jun 2025, England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    “Illegitimi non carborundum” says a sign above the ancient mantle in The Blue Boar pub.
    Right now, it is the hills that are grinding my feet - at this stage of the walk, hot spots start appearing and as you modify your shoes, the hot spot moves. So I have been modifying inner soles and inserting spares to get the right fit.
    Today, though a long walk, has been one of the more pleasant days. The weather has been so kind to us: cool and mostly dry; the track firm underfoot. St Mary’s in Newchurch, open to wanderers, as churches are, have tea and biscuits available and a seat to rest on. Most grateful to St Mary.
    But, as we sit on the top another rolling green hill, I had a momentary deep thought that these walks have taking us places that we would otherwise never contemplate. Well, at the time it seemed like a deep thought.
    Still lots of sheep. You know, when doing these long walks, one often has a song that that one hums or sings to oneself. Well, you should know that “Mary had a little lamb” is no longer my favourite. Nothing to do with Mary.
    Hay on Wye is a cute town, clearly popular with weekenders, and renowned for its book shops and writers festival. Marie’s fatigue of the past days dissipated and she dropped her bag and bounded out the hotel to investigate.
    The Hay castle was built at the time of the Norman invasion and the gate has withstood invasion over hundreds of years.
    Stats: 25.5 km, 7:22 hours, average pace 17’21”/km, 683 m elevation gain, HR 83, 7072/9974 kJ    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    Hill ponies of Hatteral Ridge
    Hill ponies of Hatteral RidgePeat bogAtop Black MountainOn Black MountainBlack Mountain

    Day 14 Hay on Wye to Longtown

    10 Jun 2025, England ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Black mountain is the highest point on the Hatteral Ridge and we first encountered this ridge near Knighton with the Monkey Puzzle trees. The hill ponies of the Hatteral Ridge have roamed here for thousands of years and play an important role in the preservation of the heath flowers. At over 700 m, these marilyns (Welsh version of Scottish munros) are exposed to severe weather and are snow covered for at times. Luckily, today was mild and the breeze gentle, but this part of the Offa’s path carries many warnings.
    At the top, the ridge is level and flag stones make walking a pleasure. Views across the Wye valley to the east and the river Usk to the west. Underfoot, dense peat bog holds pools of water, white rocks lie therein, inspiring references to the Dead Marshes of Tolkien. It is said he walked here, inspiring visions of Mordor.
    The descent to Longtown punishing to the feet. The itinerary tomorrow is to climb back up to the ridge and down the other side. No way. I will find a way down the river valley to Llangattock Lingoed where we meet Rob and Sarah Moffat for lunch.
    Stats: 23.8 km, 7:10 hours, 670 m altitude gain, HR 84, 7140/9952 kJ    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    2
    when to use a grave stone as a stileRiver Mannow on my path to Llangattocksame bridgeThe Hunting Moon Pub

    Day 15 Longtown to Llangattock Lingoed

    11 Jun 2025, England ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Solo today. Marie was picked up in Longtown (not the original name, but became so when the town grew along the road and became such) by Rob, Sarah and Hannah Moffat. They were in the area for a family matter and took a detour.
    The Offa’s path was to take me back up to the Black Mountain ridge. This did not trouble me, but walking downhill was killing my feet. So I took an old path (public footpaths have historical right of way in Britain) along the river to Pandy, joining the offical Offa’s path in the valley. And yet I can still claim to have not skipped a section. Big win.
    After walking these paths of Wales I understand how this place inspired poetry of great people. Me - I stopped to talk to a donkey. I arrived at Llangattock Lingoid 11:30. The Hunting Moon pub was open. I was the only patron. I ordered coffee from Chris, the proprietor. Turns out he had lived in Cape Town for many years. I waited for the others to arrive.
    For both of us, but especially Marie, the meeting with the Moffats was deep. There is a very powerful connection, starting with Rob and Sarah’s visit to us in Sydney in 1992. They fell I love with Max, a toddler. Since then, they have been a place of welcoming and warmth for the extended Mills/van Gend family visiting Edinburgh.
    Now we sit, a Butty Bach beer in hand, outside, enjoying a warm sunny Welsh summer evening with the backdrop of a 12th century church and surrounded by roses of all colours.
    Three days left and, though my feet will be relieved, I will be sad. The Welsh folk have been Hobbit-like in their warmth and hospitality; the country gorgeous in its greenery, though plagued by my now least favourite animal, the sheep.
    The food has been amazing. To be honest, I was not expecting much, but have been hugely impressed by the pub food we have lived and marched on.
    And the beer … don’t get me started.
    Stats: 11.8 km, 3:10 hours, 178 elevation gain, HR 87 (pushed the pace a bit), 3180/4369 kJ    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    Bridge over WyeRobin Hood Pub

    Day 16 Llangattock to Monmouth

    12 Jun 2025, Wales ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Starting to get tired now
    Two more walking days left
    Despite the rain and mud it was okay. Highlight was dropping in for a chance coffee at a place just past White Castle near Llanvetherine. Charming man gave us coffee and Welsh cakes and a tour of his barn which has been converted into a performance space. His wife was an opera singer and they out on performances there. Then we started taking about cricket. We dragged ourselves away into the rain and mud.
    Monmouth is where we are and where King Henry 5 and Mr Rolls (Rolls-Royce) were born. A medieval bridge over the Wye River. Birthday dinner at an Italian restaurant was perfect.
    Tomorrow I think we will take the low road river side option instead of over the hills. Done those.
    Tired now!
    Stats: 24 km, 6:55 hours, 582 m altitude gain, HR 82, 6144/8870 kJ    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara

    Day 17 Monmouth to Tintern

    13 Jun 2025, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Warm sunny day.
    Second last day and sporting a sore toe. Nothing like having a sore toe squashed I side a walking shoe for 6 hours. When I arrived at Tintern, I drained one blister under the little toe and another under the nail of same toe. Should be better by tomorrow for the last day.
    Today, we elected to take the low road, along the Wye river all the way to Tintern. The other option would have taken us up onto the ridge and up and down a few time. We have had enough up and down, so this option did not win many votes.
    So, a nice flat walk along the river and entertained by occasional fishermen fly fishing for trout of salmon. Saw a large dead fish floating down the river so not sure about eating the fish they catch.
    Tintern is the home of Tintern Abbey. Initially established as an abbey in 11th century by the Cistercian monks, a breakaway from the Benedictine order.
    Ups and downs till good times ended with the Dissolution of Monasteries under Henry VIII. Also, Wordsworth wrote a nice little poem about it: Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey, On Revisiting the Banks of the Wye during a Tour. July 13, 1798.
    “Five years have past; five summers,
    with the length
    Of five long winters! “ etc
    Last day tomorrow. See you then.
    Stats: 19.5 km, 5 hours, 63 m altitude gain, HR 63    Baca lagi

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  • Grant MillsWalking in WalesPengembara
    The End
    Tintern AbbeyTintern Abbey

    Day 18 Tintern to Chepstow

    14 Jun 2025, England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Thoughts on the last day?
    I lost a sock yesterday! How does one loose a sock while hiking, you may well ask. These is one of the big questions that make slow walking so interesting.
    I will think back on this time as a challenge more than a pleasure. I am tired. My legs are tired. But, at the end of previous walks this has been so. Somehow I feel more relieved this is over. Fortunately, this walk got better as it progressed. Somehow it lacked the purpose and intrigue of the Italian and French Caminos. That said, it was more about the history and the charm of the Welsh countryside and people. And the beer - it is very good. The food has been a pleasant surprise. This evening, in Chepstow, after being declined at two restaurants, Marie scored us an unexpectedly gorgeous French eatery.
    Would I recommend this walk? Yes, but …do Italy and France first. Understand this is not a glamour walk. Maybe do it in sections; spend time in Wales as it is a charming and fabulous place. Perhaps a place for the mystical and the history, music and art and poetry. And sheep.
    Each town has a sense of community and intimacy. People do not need to travel far from their homes. A bit like Hobbits, Bilbo excluded. Perhaps more like the Proudfoots. Go from one valley to the next and things change. Battles have raged; castles built and destroyed. And the sheep keep shitting.
    And me? Yes, I will take a piece of Wales home with me and be richer for it. Travel does that to you. Long slow walks more so.
    Could I live in Wales? Yes, I could. France, Italy … no.
    Tomorrow Cardiff.

    Stats: 16.78 km, 5:07 hours, 427 m altitude gain, HR 81

    O-TFWALES-HKF0FKVSH-JXP000001    Baca lagi

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    Tamat perjalanan
    15 Jun 2025