• Cindy and Daryl Brown
Jan – Mar 2019

Down Under 2019

A 64-day adventure by Cindy and Daryl Read more
  • Trip start
    January 12, 2019

    2 days and counting...

    January 9, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Testing, testing...

    Heading away on Saturday! Follow along with us...and keep us updated on your happenings too.

    Talk soon!

    Cb

  • Made it to Melbourne...

    January 14, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    ....Almost without a hitch until Melbourne air traffic control evacuated with a fire alarm. Our plane diverts to Sydney...hang around time at the airport...rebook to Melbourne. Finally made it after 35 hours of air travel! Not for the faint of heart, but happy to be here.

    Bustling, vibrant, multicultural, lovely...just as billed. Enough umpf left for dnner along the Yarra river then źzźzzzzz....
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  • Melbourne and St. Kilda

    January 15, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Nothing like a good sleep...ready to go.

    We found summer ☀️☀️. National heatwave warning is typical I guess this time of year... We're embracing the humidity and just taking our time.

    Degraves Street for a delicious breakfast to start us off. A very funky lane chockablock with anything and everything you'd like to eat or drink. Then check out the graffiti on Hosier Lane...walls , ground , stairs, garbage cans - express yourself!

    Had a great time with our friend Terry Mackian's brother, Peter and partner Carolyn. Took the tram to meet them at St Kilda...a cool beach suburb 20 minutes from downtown Melbourne. Their hospitality was super with a great 'steak on the bar-bee' on the deck of their condo overlooking the park.

    City is tennis crazy. Watch in any bar, restaurant, outdoor meeting places.
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  • Aussie Open

    January 17, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Best tennis watching day ever! 🎾

    Love Melbourne Park.. Rod Laver and Margaret Court arenas with retractable roofs plus 35 outdoor courts. And the usual hang out areas with big screens, food, drink, retail, music, entertainment.

    Saw 3 Canadians play so that worked out well. No spoiler alerts in case anyone has the matches recorded, but loved all the matches. Also saw Venus Williams, Simone Halep. It got to 37 degrees today but the overcast sky kept the worst of it at bay... then enjoyed air conditioning when the roof closed due to rain. Top it off with 'chardonnay time' and you've got a grand slam.

    Last night we took in a Vegas music show...Legends in concert. Covers of the oldie performers of the 70s and 80s...from Diana Ross to Kenny Rogers, Cyndi Lauper, Michael Jackson, Elvis. Was good fun if a bit corny at times.
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  • Melbourne; Mornington Peninsula

    January 19, 2019 in Australia

    Survived Melbourne and its 5 million people and now headed out on the road. Rain thwarted our cycling plans on our last day in the city...good the city's so walkable.  Nice hanging out watching Federer in the big screen in Fed(eration) square...how appropriate 😉...and chatting with visiting Aussie fans.  Melbourne...big city, lots of huge towers...including tallest residential tower in the world, lots of green space...very friendly).

    And we survived our first day driving on the left. Daryl at the wheel only used the wipers once as a turn signal 😂  Cindy navigating barely avoided the toll road. Bought our eskie (cooler)...ready for our road trip.

    Out to the Mornington Peninsula...miles and miles of beaches just south of the city. Cute little towns, some more tiddly than others. Water was cold but nice...enjoyed it until I remembered where I was and hightailed it back to the beach.  Lots of nasty things in Aus they say, tho we haven't been bothered yet... Also haven't seen a kangaroo...Daryl promised me they're everywhere 🙄.
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  • Great Ocean Road

    January 21, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Ferry ride...40 minutes. About same cost as BC ferry Victoria to Vancouver 2.5 times as long. Maybe we're getting a decent deal...

    Great Ocean Road exceeded expectations! The Californian coast is fabulous...the Australian coast outstanding!! Cool limestone formations, powerful crashing waves, spectacular views. Took heaps of pics but can't do justice.

    Shipwreck history in this area. No wonder with the waves and rocky foreshore.

    Kangaroos... ✔️✔️! On a golf course in Angelsea. Scruffier than I pictured them... too much Winnie the Pooh for me I guess 😄. Very cool animals. 30-50 million in Aus. 

    Was in mourning when Roger lost but perked up when Raonic beat Zverev...#4. Well done Milos!
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  • Port Fairy, Robe, Goolwa

    January 23, 2019 in Australia

    Beach walk in the mist to start the day in Port Fairy...cutest town yet.

    North of the Great Ocean Road, just off the beaten track. Couple of driving days from Port Fairy....Robe....Goolwa (you know..those famous Australian towns 😉).

    Open country, ranch lands, managed forest plantations, grazing sheep and cattle, dry scrub land,
    ocean views. Mt. Gambier stop for a flat white (latte). The main hotel there boasts 'best overall hotel in 2004'. Hmmm...what happened the last 15 years??

    Check out Blue Lake...very BLUE. The lake turns vibrant cobalt blue in summer, returning to a colder steel gray colour in fall/winter...a chemical reaction to hotter temps.

    Not a lot in between Robe and Goolwa. So first we pick our coffee shop in Robe from 5 of them along the one-block main road. They're serious about their coffee ☕ down here.

    Not much civilization today...3 wild emus, pelicans, Coorange motel and lounge in the middle of nowhere as far as we could see.

    Made it to our first (of yet to be many) winery stops 🍷. And there's more to this cellar door than just wine!
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  • Only mad dogs and Canadians...

    January 24, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    ...go out in the mid-day sun. ☀️☀️

    But we really wanted to try out the Encounter Bikeway...30 km coastal path on the Fleurieu peninsula south of Adelaide. Okay...so not the best idea. The ocean breeze wasn't a bit of help, it felt instead like a blast furnace 🔥. Ice tea and a tuna toastie in a retro vibe cafe gave us the strength to get back... only 12 km total but exhausting. The car temp showed 48°! Records being broken...if this is what global warming looks like, well....

    Lucky we have a comfy place we're staying in Goolwa. Aircon works great; nice to have dinner in for a change. And the tennis...good time to sit in and watch the semis. 😥 for Raonic. Cheering for Tsitsipas now (so at least Roger lost to the winner 🙃).

    The other side of kangaroos ... we've seen quite a few road kills ☹️; others offered on the menu and in the grocery store. Like venison for us I guess.

    Daryl washed a few clothes and hung them outside to dry 👕. Half hour later and it's like they're just out of the dryer.
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  • Travel to Adelaide

    January 26, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Lovely drive thru rolling hills straight into wine country...McLaren Vale, south of Adelaide. Can't believe the number of wineries everywhere you look. Okanagan and even Napa don't compare.

    Visited Graham Stevens winery on a local's recommendation. Good call. Graham has been in the wine business for 50 years... a very knowledgeable and likeable character.

    Then Adelaide...capital of South Australia. What a nice city. The first surveyor general is lauded for planning a city that's accessible and liveable with wide streets (where you can turn a cannon around) and 50% green space. We went to the bustling central market, art gallery, crossed the River Torrens... convention centre, Adelaide oval playing field, St. Peter's cathedral.

    At the market Daryl tried to explain how to cook 'eggs over easy'....not much success...but still a delicious brekky.

    And what a coincidence...met up with good friends John and Lynn from Victoria 😉. Dinner at Jamie Oliver's Italian then watched the women's tennis final (congrats Naomi!), hearing Australian Day fireworks outside.
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  • Clare Valley!

    January 28, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Drove a bit north to the Clare Valley. More great scenery in the Adelaide Hills.

    Three times lucky on the cycling! Clare Valley Reisling Trail... absolutely beautiful. Beats the Napa and the Loire Valley for great wineries, super scenery, neat history. Discovered Reislings dont have to be sweet 🥂. Stops along the way... 'flat white' ☕ under the olive trees; gourmet cheese plate at O'Leary Walker winery (4 generations of vintners). Went 40 km today...only 29° so no problem 😏.

    Sevenhills winery... started by the Jesuits to make wine for the altar...still going 180 years later. And that's the age of the oldest vines...still producing!

    Final tennis watching.. men's final. Shorter night than expected... congrats Jokey!
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  • Aussie critters

    January 29, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Cleland wildlife park just outside Adelaide satisfied my desire to see more Aussie critters. Natural environment, lots of animals, birdlife, forests, wetlands. Now I'm not searching for kangaroos in the countryside. Unfortunately, still see lots of kangaroo roadkill...so they're obviously out there. All the trucks and utes have big chrome 'roo bars' on the front bumper. Guess they don't want to slow down.

    A word about the flies... We're perfecting the 'Australian wave' to bat the little guys away as they fly persistently into our faces. Not an Australian feature I'll miss.  Interestingly, we weren't bothered at the wildlife park. Maybe enough predators for them?
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  • Gold Rush Town

    January 31, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Spent a great day at Sovereign Hill, at Ballarat, 90 minutes from Melbourne.  A re-creation of the gold rush here, began in 1851. They've really done it up well...original equipment and machinery. A main street the way it would have been...minus the smells and violence. Demonstrations of blacksmithing, wheel making, gold pouring, candle making, soap making, forging, shooting, horse drawn carriage...you name it.  Actors dressed in period costume...as if they live here...just like they used to.    All the shows were done with good info and humour;  always something going on in the streets...'medical emergency', newlywed arguments, troopers marching down Main Street.

    And of course the trip down into the mine, where they discovered the 'Welcome Nugget'.  Welcome, as the gold finds were starting to slow down.  It was the largest nugget (69 kg!) ever found in the world...and still the second largest.

    Crazy temperature dropped almost 20 degrees overnight. First time we were sweaters during the day. Forecast to warm again tomorrow.
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  • Aussie Miscellany

    February 1, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We canned Canberra. We weren't getting many must-see's, then a Canberra native said... "Visiting administrative buildings...how exciting" 😝.  So back to Melbourne - familiar territory...relatively.  Handed back the rental car...incident-free! 2200 kms later.

    Driving Aus observations:

    Tiddly and well-kept homes and towns, even along the thoroughfares and thru the small out-of-way towns. Very different from small town America or even BC.

    No gas and dash protection. First time we went to fill up - nowhere to pay at the pump. So in we go to pay...  "Just fill up and come in after". Okay then.

    They're serious about safe driving down here...or are they? Safety signs everywhere,  regular passing lanes, good highways. But they do let you whip along....110 on highways and 80-100 on two-lane bumpy, windy roads 😯! It'd be 60 max at home.

    Queen Victoria statues and place names boast colonial history everywhere you look.

    Love the aboriginal art...dot paintings are amazing! Cool murals in the small towns too.

    Thought Melbourne would be a bit quieter with the tennis over and school back. Not so, on a summer Friday night after work. Can't see any recession from this view!
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  • Melbourne again

    February 2, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Crazy weather across Australia...bush fires in Tasmania (telling people it's too late to leave, so go into a building), floods in Queensland, heat waves south and west Australia.  And cold extremes in North America and the U.K. 😳

    Melbourne today...36°. And we went cycling! After breakfast at our fave restaurant on Degraves street (the owner remembered these Canadians from 2 weeks ago...problem patrons? 🤔).

    Cruiser bikes from Freddy's rentals🚴‍♂️🚴‍♀️ . What a bike path all along the Yarra River right from the centre of town! Rowing practice on the river all day long. Nice ride but the heat takes its toll. The beer stop 🍺 at Australian National Hotel was a welcome break. Fitzroy Park...lovely...for our picnic lunch.  Direct route back rather than the winding river path was way shorter. 

    Happy hour at our hotel lounge, then took advantage of our kitchen to have dinner in. We've had a good mix of dinners out and in, so not too restaurant-weary yet.
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  • Sydney!

    February 3, 2019 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Despite a relatively short flight, a good part of the day spent getting out of Melbourne and into Sydney. Cool seeing the iconic highlights up close and personal.

    Easy train ride into town...shades of Vancouver skytrain. Walk along the infamous harbour...close to where we're staying in The Rocks. A busy Sunday night...guess it probably always is. Maybe more so with their lunar festival on now. Chinese New year on Tuesday... Year of the Pig. Gong hei fat choy 😃.

    Great views of the harbour bridge and opera house from lots of angles. Sure there are more pics of those in our future....
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  • Beach bums

    February 4, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We may be getting old...and we never were big beach people.  So the whole beach scene with hundreds of people struttin' their stuff, lying in the sand, the sun beating down it's UV cancer rays, swimming in shark infested waters, ....we don't quite get it.  

    I guess the first line says it all... struttin'. And while there was more to keep Daryl entertained , I did get my share of eye candy.

    Bondi Beach...35,000 visitors a day. Lovely long sandy beach...classic strip of shops and restaurants across the street. A great cliff walk along the coast....great views, lots of steps up and down to 4 other beaches. Another hot day so we take our time. Was great.

    Figure by the last beach we better see what we're missing.  So struggle into our suits over sweaty skin...down the steps to the sand...zigzag among the sun-worshippers (some notably topless)...put our packs on the towels (worry about leaving them unattended)...worry about no sunscreen on our  backs (we'll only be a  couple of minutes)...head for relief in the cool water.  Wait...it's c-c-c-COLD!  We'll, we're here now...gotta go in all the way. And we did. Then back out to rescue our packs...up the steps... shower off the salt water...dry off on the grass... ✔️. That's done. Now let's go for a beer.

    As we're walking along the beach to find refreshment, we hear the lifeguard warn there are bluebottles (stinging jelly-like fish) coming in. If you don't want to get stung, get out of the water. Then we see the sign that says swim between the flags...we hadn't. But you couldn't really call what we did swimming.   The beer did taste good though 😁.
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  • Sydney Miscellany

    February 6, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    What a harbour!  Vancouver has the mountains but this one is huge...and sooo active. Fun to watch. 

    Took a ferry (there are many, many going every which way) to Manly Beach...another beautiful, long, sandy. Met up with friends from Victoria...Reg and Kerry who gave us the Manly tour,  super beach walk, happy hour back at their place, a great dinner in a beach-side restaurant. Not too hard to take. 

    City walking tour the next day....Captain Cook; Sydney the depository for convicts from Britain; fight with Melbourne for country capital (neither won, so they built Canberra); Danish designer of the opera house (Jorn Utzon) got ripped off and let go when he went overbudget and overtime, and things got political (yah...so unusual for big projects 🤔); protests over building the harbour bridge (nicknamed 'the ugly coathanger'); harbour condos selling for $22 million...uber expensive even by Vancouver standards.

    A big, action-packed, noisy city of 5 million...wonderful to see, but ready for the smaller places in N.Z.
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  • Christchurch...Quake Capital

    February 9, 2019 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Good-bye to AUS, hello to Kiwi-ville.  Smaller cities and towns from here on...slower pace.

    Christchurch, south Island...home of the Sept 2010 and Feb 2011 quakes, the second one not as strong but deadly...185 people killed. Eight years later it's still a city in transition. Brand spanking new, modern buildings and infrastructure on some streets...other blocks still condemned. Often you see the new intermingled with damaged buildings not yet restored. Feels weird. City is totally flat and whole neighborhoods were closed after the quakes and people moved...lots of sprawl.

    Upside - a good opportunity to rebuild your city to meet current demands...wide sidewalks, tram lines.  But it's expensive, and a lot of retail vacancy yet...too dear for the old businesses to start up again. Plus they signed leases in temporary space outside the city so it takes time.  On one block, only Lululemon so far (guess they can afford it)) and lots of 'for lease' signs.  The Quake City Centre showed the impacts -- physical and human.  No water, no sewage system, roads buckled, etc. etc.  Gonna beef up the earthquake kit when we get home. The day we arrived here - a 3.8 magnitude quake; today 2.6. Weak ones but still going.

    Small market right outside our door, beside the cathedral where restoration started just 2 months ago after years of debate...demolish or rebuild.  Heritagers won that one. 

    Walking around town, scooters going every which way.  Gotta try em out...a good hoot.

    Wine tour to the Waipura valley today - Sauvignon and Pinot country. Won't be hard to take.  Annual night noodle market in Hagley Park...let's go for dinner. Uh...maybe not. Guess Saturday night draws em all out...long lineups for noodles in cardboard dishes and eating on the ground not our choice. Fun to see tho.
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  • Canterbury travels

    February 11, 2019 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Flexibility in action. Driving south from Christchurch along the inland scenic route.  Nothing booked for the next week...play it by ear. First night in Methven...ever heard of that place?  Us either.  Cute little bum-fuzz town...no problem getting a motel with lots of room, full kitchen, outside seating looking into a flower-bordered grass tennis court (should have brought the racquet!). Relax after our hike into the Rakaia Gorge...huge wide river valleys, stunning gorge views.

    Next day continue our drive (after requisite coffee stop in town...Primo coffee has funky antique decor, great coffee and scones. 'Big Tree Walk'...lovely thru the natural forest...of which there is very little here anymore...only what's preserved really. Large totara trees, the biggest 1000 years old, 31 meters tall. Have to say Cathedral Grove wins hands down, but this still impressive. 

    Where did the trees go?  Land was cleared for farming pretty much thru the whole country. As our wine guide said, New Zealand is one big farm.  Not a bad look either...be it cattle, sheep (not as many as years gone by), goats or deer.  Yes, deer farming here. Maybe we should start one in Victoria 🤔.

    Time to check for a place to stay in Omarama.  Not much there so shouldn't be a problem with tourist traffic.  But...not much there... Ok, after mucho google checks and phone calls, there is a place, tho well off the track.  Hmmm...rather not drive another 2 hours. Options?  Check the tourist info.  Yes, a place right here in Lake Tekapo. More than you'd expect to pay out here, but...we'll take it. Up the hill, around the corner, overlooking the lake.  Nice.  Think we'll stay 2 nights. Flexibility.
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  • Spectacular Scenery

    February 12, 2019 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    You can't capture fabulous scenery on your camera but I tried anyway...109 pictures later. Aoraki / Mount Cook. New Zealand's tallest mountain at 3724 metres.  Aoraki is the Maori name...cloud piercer. 

    So we gotta go there...well, not all the way up of course. Over 100 people have perished on the mountain since the first person reached the summit on Christmas day 1894. We did take the 3 hr return walk with a lot of other tourists. Keep left...then you quickly realize how many people drive on the right in this world 😝.

    Long suspension bridges, great fescue plains, glacier-fed streams and lakes. Really good.

    Our great suite is run by a Swiss couple with all the tiddly-ness that suggests... perfectly stacked woodpile, ultra clean, attention to detail. Lake Tekapo is in the dark sky reserve...the milky way and southern cross right there!
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  • Back to the coast

    February 14, 2019 in New Zealand

    Easy drive through Canterbury countryside. Small towns...not unhappy we didn't make it to stay in Omarama 😋.

    Now back to the coast...Oamaru (easy to get the names mixed up!) Limestone capital of the area. Victorian buildings revitalized when someone realized the value in them. A cool town...we didn't get the full views with a foggy morning but saw the workings. The place too where the penguins come to the shore at night...you can take your chances and walk along the boardwalk to see for yourself...maybe. Or pay your money and sit in the grandstands with all the other suckers. Started to rain so we took option 3...the last post (original post office, now a pub 🍻 😁).

    Stayed in quaint 'Miss Barclay's cottage'. Fits so well with the Victorian antique culture of the town. Too cute for words. Had to watch your head in the doorways but worth that risk.
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  • Dunedin!!

    February 16, 2019 in New Zealand

    Another easy driving day, checking out the sights along the way. Heading south toward Dunedin, into the Otago region now.

    First stop Moeraki Boulders. Good thing there wasn't a charge for this attraction...probably more impressive at low tide. We were most impressed with how unstable the cliff was and how the restaurant was going to fall down any moment!

    Then onto Fleur's cafe for lunch. Now that met expectations! Not much to look at from the outside but quaint inside and fabulous seafood! 

    Then we make it to Dunedin... the prime motivation for the whole trip in the first place. Kirsten is driving back home from the North Island as we speak so we'll catch up with her tomorrow. 

    More accommodation challenges... fexibility has its dark side.  Last week before university starts and helicopter parents on every corner getting their kiddlies set up. (That was us in days gone by 🙃). So the whole town is full, not to mention the pipe band competition... wth a dozen or more bands from around the region. But we figured it out and we got to know Dunedin a little... cool town with lots of good history.
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  • Kirsten! Cycling! Yaah!

    February 17, 2019 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It's all come together! We're cycling the Otago rail trail with Kirsten!  Day 1 is under our belt and so far so good. Only 150 km to go. The bikes are great, the trail super, the company exquisite 😊.

    We travelled by van to a little town a couple of hours from Dunedin. Clyde is so cute...and start of the rail trail. We got fitted with our bikes...ready to go. First priority... fuel up with a cheese roll.  Now ready for the river trail to Alexandra... another cute town... I think there's definitely a theme here.

    Wine tasting at Judge's Rock cellar door. That might become a theme too 🍷. A small winery that's trying to break into BCLB. Hope they do!

    It's just a warm up day so we loop back to Clyde, check in to our lodging, find our suitcases waiting in the room...like it. Now off to Olivers brewery to sample their wares. Then to Paulinas...50 metres down the road... fabulous fettuccine and blue cod dinners.

    I think we're going to like this trip!  Especially if the weather stays like it was today. Ok everybody... cross your fingers 🤞🤞🤞.
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  • Clyde to Omakau...first leg

    February 18, 2019 in New Zealand

    First leg of the trail under our belt with the fortune of good weather and good times. History galore, tiny little towns, scenery at every turn, railway stories, people stories.

    Towns developed around the gold rush, railway came along with the usual winners and losers. And once truck transport made the railway obsolete, the rail trail took over and the little towns adapted to a different clientele.

    Kilometers traveled today...40. Now that may not seem much to some hard core cyclists but you need to understand the situation. A gravel track means more resistance than road riding. Wind is a factor and can almost topple you at the cross. And the mid-morning flat white and lunchtime brew....it all takes time 😋.

    We had a whole house to ourselves last night in Omakau...and we were tuckered. The Old Commercial Hotel drove us back to our place after dinner when the rain started...part of the deal!
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  • No rest for the riders!

    February 19, 2019 in New Zealand

    Jam-packed day with crazy scenery.  More cute towns...Ophir has the oldest working post office in the country. The town has 58 residents...3 are Canadian 🇨🇦...what are they doing way down here??) People generally pick up their mail at the post office but the postmaster will deliver along her way home too. Except that time the cabbage wouldn't fit in the mailbox and it had to wait for pickup...true story! 🤣.

    Hayes engineering works...amazing inventions, nine children raised in  a three room cottage, then a grand house built with fortunes made. You have to see this place. Some of it reminds me of Grampa Brown's workshop 🔧🔧🔧🔧🛠️🛠️🛠️🛠️🛠️🔧🔧.

    Fairly long uphill trek, to be rewarded with a 4 km downhill where Kirsten didn't peddle once!  

    A van tour at the end of day to St. Bathans..old Irish mining town. Explore the old buildings, relive the times thru photos and stories.  Terry, our driver, has the local knowledge...the Angus cattle do well in the highlands...that sheep herd has the best merino wool bound for Italian tailors.  Then Cambria...just down the road.. a Welsh mining town. (Why couldn't the Irish and Welsh have got together here, so far away from home?)  Cambria has 6 full time residents. Bob is one....and one of a kind. A totally entertaining walk around his property.  Sequoia-ringed meadow. Student woofers that help out in return for room and board. Feeding the ducks. History, ecology, warmth, humour.. a lovable, unique character.

    51 km later, add-on tour, dinner out... we'll sleep well...
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