Camino del Norte & Primitivo

September - October 2019

Walk through Northern Spain. Read more

42footprints
3countries
32days
237photos
5videos
35.1kkilometers
33.3kkilometers

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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 12, 2019, 6:16pm
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 14 m
- Spain Basque Country Bilbao Deustu República de Abando Park 43.27, -2.9333343°16’12” N 2°55’60” W
Day 8
Tourists for the afternoon in Bilbao
September 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 12, 2019, 10:31pm
- 🌙 16 °C
- Altitude: 91 m
- Spain Basque Country Bilbao Aldai 43.26333, -2.9616743°15’48” N 2°57’42” W
Day 8
To pop or not to pop
September 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
Simon's latest two blisters on his smallest two toes 😜
I finally understand how to read the elevations in our guidebook. I guess our blisters are our proof that we've made it through all those up/ downhills...Read more
Traveler Well done Pam and Simon! What you've done is so amazing!
9/12/19Reply
Traveler Btw, don't pop! 😝
9/12/19Reply
Traveler Eeek, Simon popped one 😬... knew it was a bad idea
9/13/19Reply
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 13, 2019
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
- Spain Cantabria Bareyo Güemes 43.44888, -3.6311443°26’56” N 3°37’52” W
Day 9
The elusive yellow arrow
September 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Today’s KMs - 30kms
Total KMs - 159kms
Total blisters - 5 + foot rashes

We left Bilbao by bus to Laredo to avoid the Camino which followed car roads through the industrial areas of the city. From Laredo we caught a ferry across to Santona a beautiful little coastal town known for their anchovies. Passing through the town we saw the bars packed with locals watching the Spain v Australia basketball game. We peaked in to see Australia miss a free throw to put the game into overtime. We still don’t know the result as we had to keep moving. We had a long day planned and the heat has picked up here.

The Camino path is clearly marked (I’ve attached the official markers which vary depending on the region) however for the most part it is marked by yellow spray painted arrows. As you walk you look forward to finding them, sometimes on a rock, tree trunk, ruin or stone wall. They are your assurance you are going the right way.

So what happens when one slips pass you... well, we found out! About 3 hours, 12kms, walking on a main road with cars speeding either side of you in the hot sun 🥵. We looked like amateur hitchhikers that didn’t want a lift.

Needless to say we were hot, tired and very over walking. But we did eventually make it to Guemes, our final destination for the day.Read more
Traveler Didn’t see your post for the last 24 hours. Thought you maybe be lost or no internet. ..... The boys are back to the house with Sue yesterday afternoon. Unfortunately Boomers lost after 2 OT. They are playing against France for a Bronze if they win. Spain and Argentina are in the Final playing for Gold later tonight.
9/14/19Reply
Traveler Disappointing about the b-ball! Yes, it's not always easy to get wifi here
9/16/19Reply
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 14, 2019
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 83 m
- Spain Cantabria Santillana 43.39156, -4.1053643°23’30” N 4°6’19” W
1
Day 10
Cornfields and cliffs
September 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Today’s KMs - 22kms
Total KMs - 181kms
Total blisters - 5 + foot rashes (still!) and a bung ankle

What a difference a day makes. We had an amazing morning walking out of Guemes headed for Santander. Yesterday was behind us and we had beautiful cornfields to the left and stunning coastal cliffs on the other side. The cliffs ended with a 3km walk across the beach at Somo which was a chance to cool our sore feet.

The ferry from Somo to Santander was equally as good with beautiful views onto the city. Santander was so much more than I expected with beautiful architecture and cafes along the port. What a great start to the day.

Things went a little south after that and the elusive yellow arrow from yesterday turned into the conflicting yellow arrow. So what happens when there are yellow arrows pointing in different directions and you pick the wrong one? Well, more walking on car roads! This time 7kms on a main bitumen road in the hot afternoon sun 😔... it’s now a love/ hate relationship with yellow arrows!

But we made it finally into Santillana del mar which is a stunning little town which is so beautiful that many movies have been filmed here. So, we’re off now to explore it.Read more
Traveler Clean beaches and cliffs.... 👍
9/14/19Reply
181kms down! Looks like amazing experience.
9/14/19Reply
Traveler My favourite
2/12/21Reply
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 15, 2019
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
- Spain Cantabria San Vicente de la Barquera 43.38132, -4.3970643°22’53” N 4°23’49” W
1
Day 11
Slow day, not happy
September 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Today's KM's - 34kms
Total KM's - 215kms
Total blisters - 7 + foot rash and a bung ankle

A different day to yesterday away from the coast, most of the day. With the day spent on some long hot busy main roads. Partly because of miss reading the guide book, and taking a long detour to our destination. It was also a very slow walking day, due to sore ankle and general soreness from the road walking.

We eventually got to San Vicente del la Barquera, another pretty town with a long bridge over a large estuary as the entrance to town.

We decided to stay at a hotel outside town. Unfortunately, much!! further outside of town than we realised. We got completely lost, as all the streets had the same name on Google maps. Luckily we asked two nice old Spanish lady's how to get to the hotel and they tried to explain and then just said follow us, and walked all the way there with us.Read more
Traveler Hope you get to see inside some of the nice buildings along the way? And enjoy local food and refreshments?
9/16/19Reply
Traveler How’s the espanol?
9/17/19Reply
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 15, 2019
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
- Spain Cantabria San Vicente de la Barquera 43.38132, -4.3970643°22’53” N 4°23’49” W
Day 11
Just stubborn
September 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
So in the last post Simon's reference to "not happy" in the title pretty much referred to me. Let's face it, when is Simon ever not happy? It's my left ankle. I can't believe I have an injury which has forced me to walk much slower than I would like. I don't even like walking slowly down Rundle Mall! Anyway, it's a good lesson for me to slow down. It is not a race to Santiago but even with my ankle we managed to walk for 11 hours & 34kms (excluding the extra distance we spent lost which I think added 2 KMs). We are actually about 2 days ahead of our schedule. I'm just too stubborn...

I also just want to mention that I'm not the only one who's stubborn. Simon mentioned not being able to find our accommodation - I knew we were really lost after he finally conceeded and asked for directions. What is it with men not wanting to ask for directions?Read more
Pain on the Camino is a must to cement the memory
9/20/19Reply
Traveler I'll be remembering this walk for a long time then 😁 - I'm feeling every step.
9/20/19Reply
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 16, 2019, 7:45pm
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 9 m
- Spain Cantabria Val de San Vicente Muñorrodero Ría de Tina Menor 43.37, -4.4833343°22’12” N 4°28’60” W
Day 12
Buelna & bufones
September 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Today's KMs - 25.7 kms
Total KMs - 240.7 kms
Total blisters - 7 & foot rash & bung ankle

Yay, over the 200km mark!

Had a late start today and started at 9:30am instead of our usual 7-7:30am start. Some road walking to begin, but then a nice day along country lanes and along service roads for the trainline. Finally following a coastal track to see bufones (natural blowholes) to get into Buelna.

Feeling good overall but will be happy to get onto the Camino Primitivo.Read more
Traveler The views look so good!!
9/17/19Reply
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 17, 2019
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 119 m
- Spain Asturias Llanes Andrín Playa Ballota 43.40833, -4.7243°24’30” N 4°43’12” W
Day 13
Goodbye Norte
September 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Today's KMs - 16 kms
Total KMs - 256.7 KMs
Total blisters - 7 + the usual

A short 16km morning from Buelna to Llanes which finishes our time on the Camino del Norte as we head west to Oviedo to join the Camino Primitivo.

It was a beautiful way to finish the Norte along the coast line with hardly any road walking which was great. There were beautiful views of Llanes as we descended above it walking next to a pristine golf course (of all things!). We also said goodbye to the yellow arrows which are replaced in this region of the Camino by just the shell. The clasp of the shell points the direction to follow. Given our recent luck with yellow arrows I'm glad we didn't have to follow shells for more than a day 😬

The plan now is to rest a day in Oviedo (mainly because of my ankle) before starting the Camino Primitivo which is a more mountainous, harder walk instead of following the coast line. It finishes about 40kms short of Santiago where all the Camino routes converge. They say not to walk the Primitivo if you have an injury or the weather is bad so we will take it easy as there's 3 days of rain forecast for the weekend onwards.Read more
Traveler Nice photos. Beautiful coastline and town. Have a good rest. If there is thunder and lightning, stay indoor....
9/17/19Reply
Traveler Congratulations Pam and Simon! You have both made it. Love all the beautiful pics. 😍
9/17/19Reply
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 18, 2019
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 249 m
- Spain Asturias Oviedo Plaza de la Escandalera 43.361671, -5.8483343°21’42” N 5°50’54” W
Day 14
Not in Kansas anymore
September 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Today's KMs - 0 kms (official Camino kms)
Total KMs - 256.7 KMs
Total blisters - 7 + same

Oviedo is big! Definately not what we've been used to over the past week. It has a McDonald's and Starbucks - the first set of junk food we've seen. So much good food, coffee and shopping here with lots of brands we can't get back home (not in Adelaide anyway). Not tempted though considering I'll have to carry any extra weight in my pack for another 350+ kms. The Camino markers here are even more up market - gold shells 😊

In the end it seems like we made the right decision to take a rest day. I've been icing and elevating my "cankles" with Simon's ice cold beer cans. Beer is so cheap here, from 40 - 65 cents a can, with so much variety. A can of coke costs more than a can of beer! Wasted on me but Simon is making full use of the opportunity.

Can't wait to start the challenging Camino Primitivo tomorrow. It should be good heading into the mountains. It will be more remote with fewer albergues and limited/ no wifi. I'm mentally ready for the long up and down hills. I just hope my feet will hold up!Read more
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Traveler Camino del Norte & Primitivo
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- Sep 19, 2019
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 129 m
- Spain Asturias Grado 43.38706, -6.0743943°23’13” N 6°4’28” W
Day 15
A new beginning
September 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Today's KM's - 25.8kms
Total KM's - 282.5 KMs
Total Blisters - 7

Start of the Primitivo today. Lots of new people with fresh legs, having started in Oviedo. Oviedo was nice and we are well rested before starting a new walk. I finally convinced Pam to buy a walking stick so that has kept her distracted most of the day poking and hitting different things on the track.

Arrived at Grado and managed to get into a beautiful albergue (on top of a hill!). Time to explore Grado now.

P.S. found a cool flyover video which shows where we walked today

https://youtu.be/QsmmWq99kTURead more
Traveler Having a walking stick is a good idea when there are still many kilometres ahead. Enjoy your stop over...
9/19/19Reply
Well done
9/19/19Reply
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