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Camino del Norte & Primitivo
  • Pam and Simon

Camino del Norte & Primitivo

Walk through Northern Spain. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 5, 2019
    Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    One More Sleep!

    September 4, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    One more sleep! It definitely doesn't feel real. Are we really going to start our Camino tomorrow after years of talking about it?

    So grateful to mum and Sue for agreeing to look after the boys. Given they've raised 8 kids between the two of them I know the boys are in qualified hands. Note to Sue: Ollie has told me he's going to tell you that school starts at 3:10pm. Hmmmm

    Should be an experience... Will Simon grow a beard? How many blisters will we get? Will we even make the distance to Santiago? Can't wait to find out...    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Madrid, we'll be back

    September 6, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Waiting for the bus to San Sebastian. Only a brief encounter with Madrid. We'll be back though. Just need to walk a few hundred KMs first.

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    First taste of the Camino

    September 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Just a short 6km walk today to break us into the Camino - Pasaia back to San Sebastián. Beautiful views of the coast with lots of lovely locals and their dogs. So relaxing just following our trusty yellow arrows which mark the Camino.

    Last night we stayed at our first dorm. We had to stay in separate rooms which was lucky in the end as Simon had 4 snorers in his room. He was right at home there. I just had heavy Darth Vader breathing to fall asleep to. Considering we got in last night at almost midnight I would have slept through anything!    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Harder & hotter than we thought

    September 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today’s KMs - 32kms
    Total KMs - 38kms
    Total blisters - 0

    Officially started our Camino today, leaving San Sebastián for Orio followed by Zarautz and finally Gertaria.

    Such a varied walk with beaches, vineyards, orchards, forest, cobbled paths and lots of hills and valleys. We saw horses, donkeys, bulls, cows, dogs and 2 kittens along the way. Much cuter than the oversized slugs we kept running into yesterday. It was much harder and hotter than we thought, almost 7 hours of walking.

    We made it to our first albergue which is an experience in itself. At least we are in the same room this time but with 28 other people. With only one room we were relieved to get a bed otherwise we would need to walk another 5kms to the next town.

    A welcome flatter walk tomorrow!    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler
    1

    Crazy uphills

    September 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today’s KMs - 19km
    Total KMs - 57km
    Total blisters - 0 (but 2 are forming)

    Easy start this morning out of Gertaria to Zumaia. Lots of beautiful green hills and valleys. The photos don’t do it any justice.

    The day then turned into uphill, more uphill followed by steep downhills. It was hard work and we were almost overtaken by a 80+ year old local who was casually strolling up the ascends. The views of the cliffs were worth it though and it was nice to walk along the oceans edge.

    Arrived into Deba pretty early and are staying in a converted train station right on the platform. The snorers tonight will need to compete with the passing trains.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    The rain in Spain...

    September 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Today’s KMs - 32kms
    Total KMs - 89kms
    Total blisters - 3

    The rain in Spain falls mainly on the ... EVERYWHERE! By far our longest and toughest walk. We started at 5:50am this morning and headed off into the dark straight up the nearest hill out of Deba. It was nice escaping the albergue early but as soon as we left the rain came and continued pretty much for the entire 8 hours walking. We even walked through light hail and a couple of rounds of thunder and lightning. There is definitely a point where you cannot get any wetter so you slowly learn to just go with it. It feels like we can now say we’ve experienced the Camino.

    It was a tough day of walking with many twists and turns up a number of valleys before a final steep descent into Markina where we had lunch. The first time we actually stopped for lunch and right on queue the beautiful sun came out. Although only 15 mins, it was the best reprieve after hours of walking with soggy wet feet and the last we saw of the sun for the rest of the day.

    Finally we finished the last 7kms for the day and ended up at a 14th century monastery at the top of the hill where we are going to stay the night. The monks open up the place with 18 beds for people doing the Camino, as well as brew their own beer. We were lucky to get a bed which was the main reason for the early start plus the monks are apparently going to cook us a hot dinner!    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Sunshine after the rain

    September 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today's KMs - 29 kms
    Total KMs - 118 kms
    Total blisters - still 3 😒

    Putting on wet shoes and muddy clothes this morning from yesterday's walk was hard but we both didn't care because today was a new day and there was no sight of rain. Even all the inclines were bearable today because it wasn't raining. We met some lovely people at the monastery and best of all none of them snored - best night sleep so far! A really great start to the day.

    Today we walked from Monasterio de Zenarruza to Munitibar, Berriondo and Gernica before ending up at an albergue in Eskerika. We took the last two beds so we're relieved not to be walking another 7.5kms to the next one.

    There was plenty to see in Gernica but we felt too muddy to go into the museums and shops. There were plenty of outdoor Picasso art to look at least.

    Tomorrow we’ll be in Bilbao, our first big city since San Sebastián. Can’t wait.... and yay, we’ve now walked over 100kms 🙂    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Other modes of transport

    September 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today’s KMs - 11 kms
    Total KMs - 129 kms
    Total blisters - 5 (plus a sore ankle & a foot rash?!?)

    After an eventful night at a small Albergue outside of Eskerika (which included someone sleep talking in German) we headed towards Bilbao. I must say the closer we got to Bilbao the stranger it felt. We had gotten use to small country paths through small rural villages so when a plane flew overhead headed for Bilbao airport it was such a shock. We had to walk on the main road for about 3.5kms today so to see buses and trains go past was also strange - other modes of transport besides our humble feet? 😳

    About our feet... we both strangely have a rash on our feet and ankles. My theory was bed bugs but Simon thinks it’s from walking in wet socks and shoes the other day. At least it’s distracting me from my blisters.

    Short 11kms today to give us time to see a bit of Bilbao before rejoining the more simple path.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    To pop or not to pop

    September 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Simon's latest two blisters on his smallest two toes 😜
    I finally understand how to read the elevations in our guidebook. I guess our blisters are our proof that we've made it through all those up/ downhills...Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    The elusive yellow arrow

    September 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today’s KMs - 30kms
    Total KMs - 159kms
    Total blisters - 5 + foot rashes

    We left Bilbao by bus to Laredo to avoid the Camino which followed car roads through the industrial areas of the city. From Laredo we caught a ferry across to Santona a beautiful little coastal town known for their anchovies. Passing through the town we saw the bars packed with locals watching the Spain v Australia basketball game. We peaked in to see Australia miss a free throw to put the game into overtime. We still don’t know the result as we had to keep moving. We had a long day planned and the heat has picked up here.

    The Camino path is clearly marked (I’ve attached the official markers which vary depending on the region) however for the most part it is marked by yellow spray painted arrows. As you walk you look forward to finding them, sometimes on a rock, tree trunk, ruin or stone wall. They are your assurance you are going the right way.

    So what happens when one slips pass you... well, we found out! About 3 hours, 12kms, walking on a main road with cars speeding either side of you in the hot sun 🥵. We looked like amateur hitchhikers that didn’t want a lift.

    Needless to say we were hot, tired and very over walking. But we did eventually make it to Guemes, our final destination for the day.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler
    1

    Cornfields and cliffs

    September 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today’s KMs - 22kms
    Total KMs - 181kms
    Total blisters - 5 + foot rashes (still!) and a bung ankle

    What a difference a day makes. We had an amazing morning walking out of Guemes headed for Santander. Yesterday was behind us and we had beautiful cornfields to the left and stunning coastal cliffs on the other side. The cliffs ended with a 3km walk across the beach at Somo which was a chance to cool our sore feet.

    The ferry from Somo to Santander was equally as good with beautiful views onto the city. Santander was so much more than I expected with beautiful architecture and cafes along the port. What a great start to the day.

    Things went a little south after that and the elusive yellow arrow from yesterday turned into the conflicting yellow arrow. So what happens when there are yellow arrows pointing in different directions and you pick the wrong one? Well, more walking on car roads! This time 7kms on a main bitumen road in the hot afternoon sun 😔... it’s now a love/ hate relationship with yellow arrows!

    But we made it finally into Santillana del mar which is a stunning little town which is so beautiful that many movies have been filmed here. So, we’re off now to explore it.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler
    1

    Slow day, not happy

    September 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today's KM's - 34kms
    Total KM's - 215kms
    Total blisters - 7 + foot rash and a bung ankle

    A different day to yesterday away from the coast, most of the day. With the day spent on some long hot busy main roads. Partly because of miss reading the guide book, and taking a long detour to our destination. It was also a very slow walking day, due to sore ankle and general soreness from the road walking.

    We eventually got to San Vicente del la Barquera, another pretty town with a long bridge over a large estuary as the entrance to town.

    We decided to stay at a hotel outside town. Unfortunately, much!! further outside of town than we realised. We got completely lost, as all the streets had the same name on Google maps. Luckily we asked two nice old Spanish lady's how to get to the hotel and they tried to explain and then just said follow us, and walked all the way there with us.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Just stubborn

    September 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So in the last post Simon's reference to "not happy" in the title pretty much referred to me. Let's face it, when is Simon ever not happy? It's my left ankle. I can't believe I have an injury which has forced me to walk much slower than I would like. I don't even like walking slowly down Rundle Mall! Anyway, it's a good lesson for me to slow down. It is not a race to Santiago but even with my ankle we managed to walk for 11 hours & 34kms (excluding the extra distance we spent lost which I think added 2 KMs). We are actually about 2 days ahead of our schedule. I'm just too stubborn...

    I also just want to mention that I'm not the only one who's stubborn. Simon mentioned not being able to find our accommodation - I knew we were really lost after he finally conceeded and asked for directions. What is it with men not wanting to ask for directions?    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Buelna & bufones

    September 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today's KMs - 25.7 kms
    Total KMs - 240.7 kms
    Total blisters - 7 & foot rash & bung ankle

    Yay, over the 200km mark!

    Had a late start today and started at 9:30am instead of our usual 7-7:30am start. Some road walking to begin, but then a nice day along country lanes and along service roads for the trainline. Finally following a coastal track to see bufones (natural blowholes) to get into Buelna.

    Feeling good overall but will be happy to get onto the Camino Primitivo.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Goodbye Norte

    September 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today's KMs - 16 kms
    Total KMs - 256.7 KMs
    Total blisters - 7 + the usual

    A short 16km morning from Buelna to Llanes which finishes our time on the Camino del Norte as we head west to Oviedo to join the Camino Primitivo.

    It was a beautiful way to finish the Norte along the coast line with hardly any road walking which was great. There were beautiful views of Llanes as we descended above it walking next to a pristine golf course (of all things!). We also said goodbye to the yellow arrows which are replaced in this region of the Camino by just the shell. The clasp of the shell points the direction to follow. Given our recent luck with yellow arrows I'm glad we didn't have to follow shells for more than a day 😬

    The plan now is to rest a day in Oviedo (mainly because of my ankle) before starting the Camino Primitivo which is a more mountainous, harder walk instead of following the coast line. It finishes about 40kms short of Santiago where all the Camino routes converge. They say not to walk the Primitivo if you have an injury or the weather is bad so we will take it easy as there's 3 days of rain forecast for the weekend onwards.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Not in Kansas anymore

    September 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today's KMs - 0 kms (official Camino kms)
    Total KMs - 256.7 KMs
    Total blisters - 7 + same

    Oviedo is big! Definately not what we've been used to over the past week. It has a McDonald's and Starbucks - the first set of junk food we've seen. So much good food, coffee and shopping here with lots of brands we can't get back home (not in Adelaide anyway). Not tempted though considering I'll have to carry any extra weight in my pack for another 350+ kms. The Camino markers here are even more up market - gold shells 😊

    In the end it seems like we made the right decision to take a rest day. I've been icing and elevating my "cankles" with Simon's ice cold beer cans. Beer is so cheap here, from 40 - 65 cents a can, with so much variety. A can of coke costs more than a can of beer! Wasted on me but Simon is making full use of the opportunity.

    Can't wait to start the challenging Camino Primitivo tomorrow. It should be good heading into the mountains. It will be more remote with fewer albergues and limited/ no wifi. I'm mentally ready for the long up and down hills. I just hope my feet will hold up!    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    A new beginning

    September 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today's KM's - 25.8kms
    Total KM's - 282.5 KMs
    Total Blisters - 7

    Start of the Primitivo today. Lots of new people with fresh legs, having started in Oviedo. Oviedo was nice and we are well rested before starting a new walk. I finally convinced Pam to buy a walking stick so that has kept her distracted most of the day poking and hitting different things on the track.

    Arrived at Grado and managed to get into a beautiful albergue (on top of a hill!). Time to explore Grado now.

    P.S. found a cool flyover video which shows where we walked today

    https://youtu.be/QsmmWq99kTU    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler
    1

    Slightly charred

    September 20, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today's KMs - 26.4 kms
    Total KMs - 308.9 kms
    Total blisters - 7 (all popped or healed 😊) + bung ankle (still)

    It was a hot walking day today. One difference between the Camino del Norte and Primitivo seems to be the amount of open walking you do which is great in the morning but is really hot in the afternoon. The Norte had more forest and sheltered walking. So, I'm beyond tanned - I'm slightly charred 🥵... I think I would even say that Simon has tanned legs!

    The walk out of Grado was uphill but everyone from the albergue started early so we were on the road by 7am. Most of the valleys below us was full of fog so it was a bit spooky walking with just our head torches.

    We arrived at Sala by lunch time which was meant to be our final destination so we couldn't resist walking further on to the next large town, La Espina, where we'll stay for the night. More uphill awaits us tomorrow plus it’s forecast to rain 😏 .... on a more positive note though, we are over the 300km mark!    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Mud and Mountains

    September 21, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today's KMs - 23.9kms
    Total KMs - 332.8kms
    Total blisters - 7 + the usual

    Was hard to leave the albergue this morning, as we had it all to ourselves, including a seperate kitchen with a little dining table. Small luxuries, but so nice to have our own space.

    Today's walk was muddy at first, the tourist map even had a mud warning symbol for the first section because the mud was so bad. Later, though it turned into one of the most beautiful sections we had walked. The fog cleared to reveal Tineo a small town, and then later views across all the mountain ranges as far as we could see including the Hospitales route which we will climb tomorrow, a little daunting to see how tall it is, but should be a good challenge.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    Ruta de los Hospitales

    September 21, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The day of all climbs, the most anticipated & most talked about, is only one more sleep away. It is where the route on the Camino Primitivo splits and the brave choose the Ruta se los Hospitales. The elevations speak for themselves but both routes meet at Alto de Palo, approx 1145m high, so neither will be a walk in the park!

    On a clear day the views are said to be spectacular but on a wet day it can be plain dangerous with the downhill just as hairy as the uphill (the host at the last albergue said she lost toe nails coming down on that route 😳). I'm starting to wonder whether there's more to the "Hospitales" in the name.

    We have about 7kms to walk in the morning before the route splits... I can't wait to see what we end up doing. I just hope the weather or my ankle doesn't decide for us.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler

    The high road

    September 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    So after all the hype, today was a bit like going to get your flu vac. You brace yourself for the pain and before you realise it the nurse is already putting on the band-aid.

    We started walking so early this morning to make sure we would make it to the top and to be honest we didn't even realise we had made it to the highest peak until we started descending. We kept thinking it was the next peak.

    It wasn't a comfortable walk though as we were so exposed to the elements up there but it wasn't the uphill slog we had thought. It was more a fight against the strong head/ cross winds, avoiding livestock and their deposits 😜... Maybe it's just that I took ibuprofena, the Spanish equivalent to ibuprofen except with 400gm (double the Australian equivalent). I'll see how we fair tomorrow morning.    Read more

  • Pam and SimonCamino del Norte & PrimitivoTraveler
    The stubborn cowOllie, look what Dad took up with him

    Mountain views and stubborn cows

    September 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Today's KM's - 33.6kms
    Total KM's - 367.4kms
    Total blisters - 7 + the usual

    Not a bad day today, even though it included the climb over the hospitale. Weather was clear, when we reached the top. Most of the day was spent above the treeline, which meant that while it was clear a strong, cold wind was blowing all day keeping us cold. Needed all our layers, including fleece and spray jackets to stay warm. We came across a very stubborn bull, that would not move off the track and kept staring straight at us, as we approached. So we had to detour around to avoid it. Otherwise the views where amazing and a really enjoyable walk that felt easier then we expected.Read more

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