Day 4

As hard as I tried, I still ended up crashing at 8 p.m. last night—which, of course, meant I was wide awake by 4:30 this morning. We both knew we’d be slightly out of sync thanks to the time zones, but at least breakfast here started at 6 a.m., so we could start the day early (and well fed).

When we checked in yesterday, we’d planned to find a better breakfast spot nearby, but in the end, we went with the stress-free option and ate at the hotel. Turned out to be a good call—it was a solid spread and very typically German: plenty of bread, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, and cold cuts. What stood out, though, was the dining room crowd. It was almost entirely men… 🤔

We set out to explore Berlin on foot, aiming to cover as many of the city’s iconic sights as possible in a single, sunny day. With clear blue skies and a light breeze, the weather couldn’t have been better—and thanks to our early start, most places were still fairly quiet. We had a brief moment of confusion at Hauptbahnhof—Berlin’s central station is a maze of S-Bahn, U-Bahn, and regional trains—but we figured it out eventually and got moving.

Our first stop was the Reichstag, home of the German Bundestag. One of Berlin’s most recognisable buildings, it mixes classical architecture with modern symbolism. Originally completed in 1894, it was badly damaged in WWII and stood unused during the Cold War. After reunification, it was completely restored and topped with a striking glass dome—meant to represent government transparency. Even from the outside, it’s a powerful and elegant structure.

Just a short walk away is the Brandenburg Gate. We arrived while it was still quiet, which gave us time to take it in properly. Built in the late 1700s, it’s witnessed everything from Napoleon’s march to Nazi rallies, Cold War tension, and now tourists and bike tours. During the Berlin Wall era, this area was part of the so-called “death strip,” where many lost their lives trying to cross into the West. It’s surreal to stand there now, surrounded by people posing for photos.

Next was the Holocaust Memorial—formally the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. More than 2,700 concrete slabs arranged in a sloping grid create a disorienting, silent space. Walking among them is sobering. There are no plaques or signs above ground—no names, no dates—just silence. That lack of explanation somehow makes it even more impactful.

Around the corner we found the Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom), the city’s most impressive church. Built in 1905, it blends Renaissance and Baroque styles, with distinctive green domes towering over the city. The exterior alone—especially in the morning sun—was enough to appreciate its scale and detail.

Nearby, we stopped by the Alte Nationalgalerie, one of my favourite buildings in Berlin. Sitting on a high pedestal on Museum Island, it feels like something straight out of Vienna or Paris. The neoclassical architecture, framed by manicured gardens, gave the whole area a surprising sense of calm.

We then headed to Alexanderplatz to check out the TV Tower (Fernsehturm). Built in the 1960s by East Germany’s socialist regime to flaunt their technological progress (and allegedly spy on the West), it’s now a slightly kitschy but unmistakable part of Berlin’s skyline. At 368 metres, it’s visible from almost anywhere. The view from below, set against a cloudless sky, was more than enough.

From East Germany’s towering pride to its everyday reality: our next stop was the DDR Museum—and it turned out to be a highlight. Unlike most museums, this one encourages you to interact with everything.

You could flip through magazines in a recreated 1980s living room, open drawers full of GDR propaganda, and even sit in a Trabant (the East’s famously fragile car), which felt more like a plastic toy than a vehicle. The museum covered everything from surveillance and rationing to school life and fashion. What made it so compelling was how ordinary—and occasionally endearing—some of it was. It wasn’t just about control; it was about the lives people lived within that system. It made me think of my cousins who grew up in East Germany.

By this point, we were starving. We caught the U-Bahn to Schöneberg for lunch at Pitaya, a casual Thai fusion spot that hit the spot. After hours of walking and museum-hopping, it was good to just sit and recharge.

On the way back, we made a quick stop at Checkpoint Charlie—the Cold War’s most iconic border crossing. Yes, it’s touristy now (complete with souvenir stands and actors in uniform), but the original “You are leaving the American sector” sign still packs a punch. A stark reminder of just how recent all this history really is.

After such a full-on day—and my early start—we returned to the hotel for a bit of downtime. Later, we caught a tram to Prenzlauer Berg, a neighbourhood Ted had read about. And he was right—it was leafy, laid-back, and full of charm. Quiet streets, old buildings, and cosy cafés made it feel like the Berlin locals love best.

We ended up at Zweistrom Falafel, a small Turkish eatery serving up incredible food in a relaxed, no-frills setting. The kind of place that makes you wish you were a regular.

Still not quite ready to call it a night, we wandered over to The Tipsy Bear for a drink. It wasn’t busy (school night, after all), but it was exactly what we needed to wind down.

Tomorrow’s another full day in Berlin—and if it’s half as good as today, we’ll be in for a treat.Leggi altro