Day 14

For once, it wasn’t sunlight that woke us — just the alarm. Thanks to proper shutters, we managed to block out the 5 a.m. brightness that’s been dragging us out of bed all trip. But we had a mission: get to Lake Como early and dodge the worst of the crowds.

At Milano Centrale, the station was already buzzing with chaos, but we found our train waiting on the platform. We’d paid a few euros extra for first class and thought we’d secured a quiet ride—until a guy boarded halfway through and blasted rap music from his headphones while sleeping. So much for peace.

Varenna was our pick over the town of Como — it’s smaller, quieter, and has that postcard charm without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. The moment we stepped off the train, it was obvious we’d chosen well. A gentle downhill walk through ivy-covered laneways led us to the lakeside, where most people were already queuing for the ferry to Bellagio. We weren’t interested in joining the queue parade, so we turned left and wandered along the water instead.

Our first attempt at coffee didn’t go so well—the café we stopped at didn’t seem keen on serving anyone. But that turned into a win. We continued walking along the lakefront and stumbled upon Bar Il Molo, perched right over the water. Coffee, toast, sunshine, and mountain views—breakfast perfection. The only downside? A gang of opportunistic birds constantly swooping in for croissants.

After breakfast, we wandered through Varenna’s cobbled laneways and along its famous lakeside Passeggiata degli Innamorati—the Lovers’ Walk. We admired the view of brightly coloured houses stacked against the hill and took in the peaceful vibe of the village. We reached the gates of Villa Monastero, a former convent turned lakeside villa with botanical gardens and stunning lake views.

By the time we looped back toward the ferry terminal, the line for Bellagio had stretched into the dozens and was barely moving. Standing in the sun for over an hour didn’t appeal — so we went for Plan B: jump on a train to Lecco, another town on the lake, just 20 minutes away. Whilst waiting for the train we met another couple from Adelaide who had just been to Bellagio and mentioned how they hadn’t enjoyed it due to crowd congestion. It definitely made us feel better about our decision.

Lecco felt completely different. No queues. No crowds. A solid decision. While Varenna was quaint and romantic, Lecco had a more grounded, everyday charm. Though larger and less touristy, it felt more like a working Italian city than a getaway spot. Its promenade stretched wide along the lake, with snow-capped peaks in the background and locals actually going about their day. We explored the peaceful lakefront promenade, passed the Basilica of San Nicolò with its striking bell tower, and strolled through Piazza XX Settembre, the lively heart of the city. No tour groups, no queues—just calm beauty.

We thought we’d try to exchange some cash while we were there, but that quickly turned into a comedy of errors. Western Union sent us to the post office, the post office told us to try a bank, and the bank (after requiring a fingerprint scan and ID check) turned out to be an admin office with no cash handling. We gave up.

For lunch, we picked a small family-run spot called Santa Lucia. The waitress didn’t speak English, but since she was originally from Cuba, I was able to order in Spanish. Ted had a caprese salad he ranked as his favourite meal in Italy so far. I went with a simple pizza—and finished off with a final Italian gelato. Not something I normally go for, but it felt like the right farewell to Italy.

By mid-afternoon, we were ready to wind down, so we caught a train back to Milan. That evening, instead of wandering aimlessly for dinner, we explored the restaurants around Milano Centrale—and ended up at the food market inside the station. Great energy, heaps of options, and far better than you’d expect from a train station setup.

Tomorrow, it’s time to shift gears: we’ll catch a train to Civitavecchia via Rome, where we’ll board the cruise we’ve been looking forward to. So for now, it’s goodbye to Milan and Lake Como—both brought very different kinds of magic.Les mer