Day 17

We were up early today and off the ship by 8:30 a.m., not long after docking in Messina. As soon as we stepped onto dry land, we were greeted by the usual swarm of local hawkers offering everything from taxi rides to full-blown excursions — and, of course, seats on a very tired-looking hop-on hop-off bus. We politely declined all offers, along with the now-routine photo ops the cruise ship staff insist on every time we disembark. (Yesterday, they tried to tempt us with a photo next to someone in a bear costume — which was more confusing than anything. What exactly does a bear have to do with Naples?)

Messina felt like a breath of fresh air. Smaller, quieter, and far more compact than Naples, it was the kind of place that made sense to explore on foot. And thankfully, the temperature—though similar to yesterday—felt much more comfortable thanks to a constant, cooling breeze. We later learned it was Festa della Repubblica, Italy’s national day, which helped explain the calm streets, shut shops, and generally mellow atmosphere. The whole city felt like it had exhaled.

We started with the Duomo di Messina, the city’s grand cathedral, built in creamy-pink stone and flanked by twin towers. Rebuilt several times due to earthquakes and WWII bombings, the structure you see today is a meticulous restoration of the original 12th-century Norman design. The adjacent astronomical clock is one of the largest in the world and was built by a Strasbourg company in 1933. Even when it’s not in motion, the gilded lions, cockerels, and religious figures standing in niches high above the square are incredible to look at. Just out the front is the Fountain of Orion, carved in the 1500s by a student of Michelangelo. It’s dedicated to the mythical founder of the city and features sea creatures, tritons, and symbols of the region’s four rivers—basically a Baroque fever dream in marble.

A bit further along, we visited the Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani. It’s a mouthful to say, but the church itself is fascinating. Built in the 12th century, it showcases Arab-Norman architecture, a style unique to Sicily that blends Byzantine, Islamic, and Romanesque influences. The church sits below modern street level, giving you the sense of descending into history. It’s one of the few buildings to have survived the 1908 earthquake, which makes its survival all the more impressive.

Next came the climb. We tackled the long staircase up to the Santuario della Madonna di Montalto, built on the spot where, according to local legend, the Virgin Mary intervened during the city’s medieval siege. The sanctuary is peaceful and solid, perched above the bustle with views out over the rooftops, sea, and ship-filled port. At the edge of the plaza stands a statue of Pope John Paul II, his arms stretched outward in quiet benediction.

From there, we wandered over to the Santuario di Cristo Re, with its grand dome and sweeping view of the Strait of Messina. Beneath the church is a war memorial, with an eternal flame guarded by bronze lions.

We descended toward the Fountain of Neptune, one of the city’s boldest and most dramatic landmarks. Designed in 1557, it shows Neptune in a power stance, trident raised, subduing two sea monsters that represent the dangers of the strait. Neptune’s backside is nothing short of sculpted perfection—this guy’s glutes are carved like they were auditioning for a Renaissance cologne ad. After all the religious iconography and domes of the morning, it was a nice surprise to round out the walk.

We strolled back along the marina, passing rows of yachts and fishing boats gently rocking in the water. It was a great way to wind down the morning, and we were more than ready for lunch once we re-boarded.

Later, while relaxing in the ship’s restaurant having lunch, something unusual caught my eye: a thin plume of smoke rising on the horizon. I checked Google Maps and realised it was coming from the direction of Mount Etna, and sure enough, a quick search confirmed that the volcano was erupting again. You could clearly see the ash plume drifting high into the sky from our vantage point on the water. There was something otherworldly about eating while watching one of Europe’s most active volcanoes casually go about its business in the background.

After lunch, we relaxed in the Hollywood Pool area—a bright, airy spot beneath a retractable glass dome. It had a bit of a grown-up vibe, with whirlpools, loungers, and the soft hum of background music drifting over the water. We decided to join a game of trivia for something different. We managed 11 out of 20—not exactly champion material, but not bad either. We nailed questions on world capitals but totally blanked on who won Eurovision.

Later in the afternoon, we headed back to the cabin to shower and get dressed for dinner. As we stepped out, we heard a PA announcement reminding passengers that tonight was formal night on board. We didn’t think much of it until we passed one of the higher decks overlooking the atrium and saw everyone dressed up to the nines. Cue the quickest 180 of the trip—we returned to the cabin, Ted ironed our shirts and jackets in the laundry across the hall, and we emerged again twenty minutes later, far more appropriately dressed.

The ship had transformed. The atrium was buzzing—champagne flutes in hand, couples dancing to live music, and passengers soaking up the occasion like it was a floating ballroom. We caught up with two American guys from San Diego who Ted had met earlier—they’re here with a big group of friends—and had a round of drinks with them before they headed off for dinner. Not long after, we ran into Troy and Ken again and were easily talked into staying for several more drinks. We ended up eating dinner afterwards at the buffet, still in our formalwear. Not quite the white-tablecloth evening you’d expect when wearing a jacket.

Before we could call it a night, we bumped into one of the San Diego group again who told us a show called Encore was about to start in the theatre and asked if we wanted to join her. We did—and I’m glad we went. It was a really colourful and high-energy production with everything from Broadway numbers to opera. Being in the front row definitely added to the atmosphere.

Tomorrow we dock in Valletta, Malta — a place we haven’t visited in 14 years. Looking forward to seeing how it’s changed… or if it hasn’t at all.Leer más