Day 23

After a string of late nights (and maybe one too many cocktails), sleep last night was patchy at best. But the second we drew back the curtains in our stateroom, it didn’t matter. We were gliding through the Bay of Kotor, flanked by misty peaks and waterside villages that looked as if they’d been carved into the mountains. It felt like a déjà vu moment from our trip through the Norwegian fjords last year — and sure enough, Kotor is often called the southernmost fjord in Europe. (Technically, it’s a ria, or a submerged river canyon, but let’s not get too pedantic when the views are this good.)

Still groggy, we headed up for a quick breakfast in the buffet — but not before stepping out on deck to take some videos of the surroundings. There’s something about seeing this place in motion: the scale, the stillness, the way the light hits the water. It’s the kind of setting you want to remember.

This stop also marked a personal milestone — country #69 for me and #65 for Ted. We’ve both done a fair bit of travel, but ticking off new countries still feels just as special. We followed our now well-rehearsed strategy of disembarking early to beat the crowds and the heat. Kotor is the only port on this cruise that requires a water shuttle, but the 15-minute ride was smooth and scenic. Bonus: since the lifeboat that usually blocks our balcony was lowered earlier that morning, we finally had an unobstructed view from our cabin.

As soon as we stepped onto dry land, we were approached by a swarm of tour vendors — but we already knew what we wanted to do: ride the new cable car to the top of Mount Lovćen. The ticket package, which included a return transfer and gondola ride, cost €30 — more than we expected, but we hoped the views would justify it.

Before heading off, we took a quick stroll through Kotor’s UNESCO-listed Old Town. Even with only a few steps inside, we were struck by its well-preserved Venetian walls, medieval churches, and cobbled alleys. But with the first shuttle to the gondola base leaving at 9 a.m., we didn’t linger long — especially since we wanted to get ahead of the wave of cruise excursions.

The gondola ride itself was a surprise. It stretched far higher and longer than we expected, lifting us up around 850 metres in just 15 minutes. The view was breathtaking — the entire bay spread out below like a painting, with the cruise ship tiny in the distance and Kotor’s red rooftops hugging the shoreline.

At the summit, we were greeted by a surprisingly modern mountaintop development. Though some parts weren’t quite open yet, there were plenty of clear signs pointing to cafés, walking tracks, a large amphitheatre (still unsure what that’s used for), and — unexpectedly — a summer toboggan run. It’s an alpine coaster that twists down the mountain on rails. It definitely added to the sense that this mountaintop was still being shaped into something special.

We made our way to the viewing platforms, which required a bit of a clamber over rocky terrain — no fences, no paved paths, and certainly no health and safety tape! But the payoff was worth it. The views were panoramic and unfiltered, and we had them almost to ourselves.

With the restaurant now open, we stopped in at Forza for an iced coffee. Or so we thought. Our charmingly handsome waiter returned with two espressos and a bowl of ice cream — something got lost in translation. But honestly? Sitting cliffside with that view, we weren’t complaining.

After soaking it all in, we caught the gondola back down — and the timing couldn’t have been better. Crowds were now streaming in. We shared a ride with an American couple and their Montenegrin guide and swapped travel stories the whole way down. When we returned to the base, we expected to wait half an hour for the next return shuttle. But just as we were debating whether to sit or wander, the driver strolled over, opened the doors just for us, and even stopped along the way to grab himself some lunch. No stress — just laid-back Balkan efficiency.

Back in Kotor’s Old Town, the difference was stark — it was now packed and hot. Still, we enjoyed another wander through the cobbled laneways, past centuries-old churches, stone archways, and market stalls. Every old town has its own personality, and Kotor’s blend of history, mountain drama, and seaside calm felt totally unique.

We looped along the waterfront, past the towering walls and steep switchbacks of St. John’s Fortress — which we admired from sea level rather than attempting the sweaty climb — before making our way back to the water shuttle. As if on cue, it pulled away just minutes after we boarded.

Back onboard, we made the most of the quiet ship: laundry (the glamour never ends), long showers to rinse off the heat, and a quick lunch before collapsing into a well-earned nap. Later in the afternoon, we headed upstairs one last time to farewell Kotor properly — and what a farewell it was. The views from the top deck as we sailed out of the bay were absolutely stunning: golden light pouring over mountain peaks, glassy water reflecting the fading day, and everyone seemingly on the same wavelength — drink in hand, swapping travel stories, and throwing in a few dramatic complaints about the heat for good measure. Montenegro, you’ve made quite the impression.

Dinner was at the buffet again, where we indulged a little more than necessary — par for the course by now. Ted headed back to the room to catch the French Open (a new cruise obsession), while I popped over to Bellini’s for a nightcap and some great company. I caught up with Troy and Ken first, then later Kuamane and Nicholas — so the evening ended just the way it began: with laughter, great conversation, and a few too many refills (but not for me!).

Tomorrow, we tick off yet another new country for both of us — Croatia! Can’t wait to see what’s in store.Read more