Day 1
May 2 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Long Hauls, Lounge Hopping and Landing in LA 🇺🇸✈️
Welcome to our next journey! This trip has been on our minds for a while now. With the ongoing Iran conflict and the resulting fuel concerns, there was definitely a point where we questioned whether everything would go ahead as planned. If anything, it’s made us appreciate the opportunity to travel even more.
Our journey started in Sydney this time, rather than Adelaide. Ted arrived on Thursday to spend some time with his mother and catch up with friends, while I flew in early Friday morning to meet him. That night, we stayed at the Crowne Plaza Sydney Airport ahead of our international departure the following day.
Saturday came around quickly, with a 3:30am start. After a week of early mornings, we’d gone to bed pretty early, but fortunately managed to drift back to sleep for a bit before getting moving. Once up, we packed, had a quick buffet breakfast at the hotel, and made our way toward the airport.
We walked over to QCC (Qantas Central Complex) and caught the staff bus across. Within five minutes, we’d already run into three people we knew—proof of how small the aviation world becomes after more than 20 years in it.
Living in Adelaide for the past five years has definitely softened us, because we’d both forgotten how full-on Sydney Airport can be. Thankfully, no staff travel roulette this time—we booked Business Class with Philippine Airlines, which made check-in straightforward and stress-free.
With lounge access included, we headed into the House Lounge by Aspire. To be honest, it was pretty average—crowded, uninspiring food, and staff who didn’t seem overly interested. It did the job, but we were glad we’d already eaten and didn’t hang around long before heading back into the terminal.
Sydney Airport itself felt chaotic. It brought back memories of Stansted Airport, but without the same sense of organisation. Our boarding gate—number 26—was split into A, B, C and D, and despite the screens telling everyone to relax, the growing line told a different story. We joined it early, which turned out to be the right call. Boarding had already started, and we were quickly put onto buses out to the aircraft.
Once onboard, things improved straight away. The Business Class cabin was comfortable, and the crew were friendly and professional. They showed impressive patience too—especially when one passenger decided to stay on a Zoom call through the entire safety demonstration.
The flight to Manila was around nine hours. Service was solid, the seat was comfortable, and the time passed fairly quickly with a few episodes of Stranger Things and the movie About Time. Sleep, however, was limited.
We were first off the plane in Manila and made our way straight to connections. Despite its reputation, Ninoy Aquino International Airport actually felt calmer than Sydney. We spent our five-hour layover in the Business Lounge, which was simple but noticeably better than what we’d just experienced.
Boarding our next flight, we noticed a big difference straight away. The Business Class cabin was older and definitely showing its age. The flatbed was a bit rickety, and there was no real storage space, but the upside was the amount of room—easily the most legroom we’ve had. After a long taxi, we were both just waiting for the meal service so we could try to get some sleep. By that point, it was well past midnight back home, so we were definitely feeling it.
Even with the outdated Skybed, we managed to get a bit of rest—more than we would’ve in Economy anyway! The seat did come with a few downsides though. Ted knocked water onto his phone, which stopped working for a few tense minutes, and I managed to temporarily lose a charging cable somewhere behind the seat.
One thing that stayed consistent across both flights was the service from Philippine Airlines—reliable and friendly. Although I think there was a slight mix-up with my vegetarian meal, which seemed to be interpreted as vegan when any butter disappeared pretty quickly!
Eventually, we touched down in Los Angeles. One thing that stood out straight away was the number of wheelchairs waiting at the gate—well over 30—which gives you an idea of how many passengers needed assistance on this flight.
Immigration at Los Angeles International Airport was surprisingly smooth. We were first in line, and it was all over pretty quickly. Baggage claim took a bit longer, but that’s expected at a major airport like LAX.
Getting to our hotel in Redondo Beach was straightforward. LAX now runs a free shuttle to a designated ride-share area, which made things much easier compared to previous trips where we’ve waited ages for transport.
By the time we got to the hotel, it was around 10:30pm. At that point, all we wanted was a shower and a proper bed. With an early 8am flight to Phoenix the next morning, we didn’t have long—but it didn’t matter.
We’d made it to the US, and the trip was finally underwayRead more
Day 2
May 3 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Red Rocks, Road Trips & Rookie Errors 🚗🌄
After getting to bed late the night before, the last thing we wanted to hear—after flying all the way from Australia—was a 5:00am alarm. Despite the short sleep, we’d both rested reasonably well. We packed up quickly and headed outside to meet our Uber, ready to kick off the next leg of the trip.
Ted had already been awake earlier thanks to jet lag, so we’re hoping that doesn’t linger too long. Being a Sunday, traffic was light and the trip to Los Angeles International Airport was quick. Even more surprising was how smooth the TSA process was—far less hectic than we’d expected.
With no breakfast yet, we grabbed a fairly average airport meal—pancakes, and eggs on toast—before heading to the gate. One thing we did enjoy was seeing so many dogs around the terminal. It’s definitely not something we’re used to back home, where the only airport regular is Elmo the service dog!
Our flight to Phoenix with Southwest Airlines was about two-thirds full, which made for a comfortable ride. The crew were friendly and relaxed, delivering a safety demonstration with plenty of humour—including the classic “in case our aircraft becomes a cruise liner…” line. Not something you hear every day.
In under an hour, we landed in the “Valley of the Sun”—Phoenix. This was my first time here, while Ted had visited once before. One thing the airport does very well is its rental car system. Instead of navigating out of the terminal area, you take a dedicated train to a massive off-site rental facility, which made that part easy.
Actually getting the car, however, was another story. We’d booked an electric vehicle and were told to collect it from Bay 203… which didn’t exist. After a bit of back and forth, we were eventually offered a Kia EV6 instead. Once that was sorted, we hit the road toward Sedona.
On the way, we stopped at Montezuma Castle National Monument—a place we’d both visited before, although quite some time ago. Despite the name, it’s not actually a castle and has nothing to do with the Aztec ruler Montezuma. Instead, it’s a remarkably well-preserved cliff dwelling built by the Sinagua people around 900 years ago. Carved into a limestone cliff about 27 metres above ground, the structure contains around 20 rooms and would have housed an entire community. Its elevated position protected residents from flooding and made it easier to defend—an impressive piece of engineering considering its age.
Before we even got that far though, we had a minor crisis. When we stepped out of the car, we realised we had no idea where the car key was. After tearing the car apart trying to find it, we eventually discovered it on the passenger seat. I’d been sitting on it the whole time.
Arriving into Sedona, the scenery immediately stood out. The town is surrounded by striking red sandstone formations, shaped over millions of years by wind and water erosion. These towering rock formations—like Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte—glow deep orange and red, especially in the changing light, creating one of the most distinctive landscapes in the American Southwest.
We checked into Bell Rock Plaza and had a quick look around the nearby shops before deciding to charge the car. That’s when the next issue popped up—we couldn’t find the charging cables.
Once again, we pulled the car apart looking for them. After multiple phone calls to various Budget Car Rental offices (and being repeatedly redirected to call centres), we finally got through to someone helpful. As it turns out, things work differently in the US—charging cables are already attached to the stations, unlike back home where you bring your own. Apparently, they were removed from rental cars due to theft. Crisis over again.
Finding an actual charging station, however, took a bit more effort. Many were located in quiet suburban areas with nothing nearby, but we eventually found one at The Collective Sedona. By this stage it was around 3pm and we hadn’t eaten lunch, so we were relieved to find Dellepiane—an Argentinian spot that was still open. Exactly what we needed.
By the afternoon, jet lag was starting to hit. We headed back to the hotel for a quick nap… which may have gone a little longer than planned. Waking up felt harder than expected, but we pushed on and headed out for a drive.
We took the Red Rock Scenic Byway toward downtown Sedona—and it’s hard to overstate just how impressive it is. This stretch of road is considered one of the most scenic drives in the US, running through a corridor of towering red rock formations. On either side, you’re surrounded by iconic landmarks like Bell Rock, Cathedral Rock, and Courthouse Butte, with layers of red and orange cliffs contrasting against bright blue skies. As the sun lowers, the colours intensify, giving the whole landscape an almost unreal appearance.
After picking up some groceries, we attempted to drive up to Airport Mesa—known for some of the best panoramic views in the area. Unfortunately, so did everyone else. The line of cars crawling up the hill wasn’t moving, so we quickly gave up and turned around.
Instead, we headed back into town and stopped at Tlaquepaque Arts and Shopping Village—and this turned out to be a highlight. Originally built in the 1970s to resemble a traditional Mexican village, it’s far more than just a market. The space is beautifully designed, with cobblestone pathways, archways, courtyards, and vine-covered walls. It’s home to a mix of art galleries, boutique shops, and quality restaurants, all set within a really atmospheric setting. It felt authentic, relaxed, and genuinely worth the visit—we both really enjoyed it.
Coming into Arizona, we weren’t entirely sure what to expect given how long it had been since either of us had visited. But so far, Sedona has exceeded expectations. Even though we’re running on fumes at this point, we’ve set the alarm for an early start tomorrow. If today is anything to go by, sunrise here should be something pretty special.Read more
Day 3
May 4 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Red Rocks, Railroad Towns and Desert Views 🚂🌄
Dragging ourselves out of bed early again this morning definitely wasn’t easy—but this time it was intentional. We’d set the alarm specifically to catch sunrise in Sedona, knowing how incredible the red rocks can look in that early morning light. In theory, it was a great plan. In reality… the weather had other ideas. Low cloud and overcast skies meant we missed out on the glowing reds and oranges we were hoping for. It was a little disappointing, but at least we were up early and ahead of the crowds—so we pushed on.
We initially thought about walking to nearby Bell Rock, which is close to our accommodation, but instead decided to try Cathedral Rock—one of Sedona’s most photographed landmarks. We aimed for the Easy Breezy Trail, a more relaxed option compared to the steeper summit tracks. The trail winds through open desert terrain with gentle elevation changes, offering wide views of the surrounding formations without requiring much effort. That said, after about half an hour, it felt like we were getting further away from Cathedral Rock rather than closer—so we cut our losses and turned back.
Next up was the Twin Buttes area, on the other side of the highway, and this ended up being a highlight. This part of Sedona feels quieter and more residential, with some impressive homes that really suit the landscape. The architecture is classic Southwestern desert style—earth-toned stucco, flat roofs, and large windows designed to frame the scenery. It all blends in with the surroundings rather than standing out, which works perfectly against the red rock backdrop.
From here, we also had a great view of the Chapel of the Holy Cross. Built into the cliffs in the 1950s, it’s one of Sedona’s most recognisable landmarks. The structure rises dramatically out of the rock, with a tall cross built into its façade, and was designed to feel like part of the landscape itself. Even from a distance, it’s a striking sight.
We then made our way into Upper Sedona—partly for coffee, but also to track down the well-known Snoopy Rock. This area has a more local, laid-back feel compared to some of the busier parts of town, with a mix of cafés, galleries, and small shops. Snoopy Rock is one of those quirky formations that only really works from a specific angle, where it resembles Snoopy lying on top of his doghouse. We didn’t quite nail the perfect photo, but it was still fun trying. Upper Sedona itself was a great find—easygoing and scenic without feeling overly touristy.
By this stage, we still hadn’t eaten, so we headed back to the hotel for a quick breakfast of cereal and yoghurt before heading out again.
For something different, we decided to drive up to Flagstaff, less than an hour away—but it felt like a completely different world. Sitting at over 2,000 metres above sea level and surrounded by the largest ponderosa pine forest in the United States, Flagstaff has a distinctly alpine feel. The temperature difference hit us immediately—while Sedona had been sitting comfortably in the 20s, Flagstaff struggled to reach double digits. Not ideal when you’ve dressed for desert weather.
As we arrived in the historic downtown area, we were stopped at a railway crossing for over five minutes while a long freight train passed through. It turned out to be a fitting introduction to the town.
Flagstaff’s history is deeply tied to the railroad. Established in the late 1800s along the transcontinental railway, it quickly became an important hub for transport and trade in northern Arizona. Later, the arrival of Route 66 cemented its place as a key stop for travellers crossing the country. Today, that history is still very much alive. The tracks still run straight through town, freight trains pass regularly, and the historic downtown has been carefully preserved.
Walking through the area, you’ll find early 20th-century brick buildings, vintage signage, and a mix of old storefronts that now house cafés, bars, and independent shops. There’s a real sense of character here—less polished than Sedona, but more grounded and authentic. It feels like a place with history, rather than one built purely for tourism.
Even though it was only around 10am, most places were still closed, but we were glad to find a cafe named Tourist Home open. After the cold morning, warm soup and cheese toasties were exactly what we needed—and probably one of the most satisfying meals of the trip so far.
One thing we noticed straight away was how much more affordable Flagstaff seemed compared to Sedona, which makes sense given Sedona’s popularity as a tourist destination. After wandering the streets and taking a few photos, we made our way back toward Sedona, stopping briefly at Walmart along the way. By the time we got back, the lack of sleep was catching up with us, so we had a quick nap before heading out again later in the afternoon.
Even though the weather was still fairly flat, we decided to give the viewpoints another go. Our first stop, Bell Rock Trailhead, was chaotic—cars circling, people waiting, and drivers hovering for spots. It felt more stressful than it was worth, so we moved on.
Our next stop, Courthouse Vista, was a completely different story—plenty of space and far more relaxed. While Ted stayed with the car sorting out the navigation, I went off to explore and noticed a couple climbing a small hill nearby. I followed, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions of the day. From the top, the view finally opened up—wide, uninterrupted, and exactly what we’d been hoping for since arriving. In front of me were Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte, rising out of the desert floor, with layers of red ridgelines stretching into the distance. Even without direct sunlight, the scale and colour of the landscape were still impressive.
I called Ted over to join me. He wasn’t entirely convinced it was a good idea—especially after we later spotted a sign reminding visitors to stay on marked paths—but even he admitted the view made it worthwhile.
We finished the day back in downtown Sedona, which we’d enjoyed earlier. After browsing a few shops, we picked up a Christmas ornament (a bit of a travel tradition for us), and stopped in at The Spice & Tea Exchange of Sedona. It’s a great little shop specialising in loose-leaf teas and spices, with everything from classic blends to more creative combinations.
We’re not usually big tea drinkers, but we gave it a go. Ted chose an Earl Grey with orange, while I tried the “Strawberry Meadows” blend—a fruity herbal mix of strawberry, apple, and light floral notes. Surprisingly good, and a nice way to support a local business.
After a full day and still running on limited sleep, we were more than ready for a quiet night in. Sedona might not have delivered the sunrise we were hoping for, but it’s continued to impress in its own way—and we’re starting to see why so many people are drawn here.
Tomorrow, we head to Scottsdale to explore more of the Grand Canyon State.Read more
Day 4
May 5 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Ghost Towns, Mountain Roads and Cinco de Mayo 🌮🚗 👻
I tried going to bed later last night in the hope that I’d finally sleep in this morning… but no luck. I was wide awake at 5:30am. It probably didn’t help that an unknown number tried calling us in the middle of the night either. I remember having similar problems on previous overseas trips, so I think my body just doesn’t adapt particularly well to different time zones. It makes me grateful I never worked as an international flight attendant!
After packing up, we sadly said goodbye to beautiful Sedona and headed toward our first stop of the day—the historic town of Jerome. For obvious reasons, I was very interested in visiting somewhere that shares my surname, and I was curious to see what we’d find. Before arriving, I’d read that Jerome was known for its ghost town atmosphere, dramatic mountainside setting, quirky arts scene, and allegedly haunted buildings—so expectations were already fairly high.
The drive from Sedona wasn’t especially long, but the scenery changed noticeably as we climbed higher into the Black Hills of central Arizona. Sitting at around 1,500 metres above sea level, Jerome was noticeably cooler than Sedona, with darker skies suggesting the weather was beginning to turn.
The town itself was fascinating straight away. Perched precariously on the side of Cleopatra Hill, Jerome almost looks like it’s clinging to the mountain. Narrow winding roads, steep hillsides, old staircases, and historic brick buildings give the place a really distinctive character. There were also some incredible mountainside homes mixed amongst an eclectic collection of galleries, cafés, wineries, antique stores, and gift shops.
Jerome’s history is just as interesting as its appearance. Originally established as a copper mining town in the late 19th century, it quickly became one of the wealthiest mining communities in Arizona thanks to the huge copper deposits discovered nearby. At its peak, more than 15,000 people lived here, and the town developed a reputation for being rough around the edges, filled with miners, gambling halls, saloons, and brothels. When the mining industry eventually declined, Jerome’s population collapsed and it was nearly abandoned completely—leading to its “ghost town” reputation today. Rather than disappearing entirely though, the town reinvented itself as an artist and tourism community, which honestly gives it a really unique atmosphere.
Our first stop was coffee—which I promptly managed to spill down myself. After that excitement, I was determined to explore the shops in search of anything with the name “Jerome” on it. Success. I ended up buying a Jerome T-shirt, an espresso cup, and another Christmas ornament for our collection. Adding to the atmosphere, marathon runners were sporadically making their way through town while locals stood outside cheering them on.
Possibly the town’s most famous landmark is the Jerome Grand Hotel, which sits high above the town overlooking the valley below. The building originally opened in 1927 as the United Verde Hospital, serving the mining community during Jerome’s boom years. At the time, it was considered one of the most modern hospitals in Arizona, complete with advanced medical equipment and one of the first elevators in the state. After the mining industry collapsed, the hospital eventually closed and sat abandoned for years before being transformed into a hotel in the 1990s. Today, it’s known not only for its incredible views, but also for its reputation as one of Arizona’s most haunted hotels—a detail the town seems very happy to embrace.
Getting there, however, was an adventure in itself. The road leading up to the hotel was narrow, steep, partly unsealed, and one-way in sections. If you weren’t concentrating, it was incredibly easy to miss the turn—which we did the first time around. For a few minutes, we genuinely thought we might be stuck winding through mountain roads for the next 45 minutes trying to turn around somewhere. Thankfully, a roadside viewpoint eventually saved us.
Before leaving town, I obviously had to stop for a photo with Jerome’s welcome sign. From there, we continued on toward Scottsdale. Looking at the weather forecast, I think we timed Sedona perfectly because the skies were becoming noticeably darker today, although we still managed to avoid any actual rain.
Arriving in Scottsdale, we were really happy with our accommodation. Staying at a Holiday Inn Express Scottsdale North feels slightly luxurious after constant moving around because you know exactly what you’re getting—comfortable rooms, decent facilities, and everything you need in one place. After unpacking and settling in, we headed out to a nearby Mexican restaurant that happened to be celebrating cheap taco day—which we suspect was connected to Cinco de Mayo being today.
Despite what many people assume, Cinco de Mayo is not actually Mexico’s Independence Day. Instead, it commemorates the Mexican army’s victory over French forces at the Battle of Puebla in 1862. While it’s only modestly celebrated in parts of Mexico, it has become hugely popular in the United States—particularly in the Southwest—as a broader celebration of Mexican culture, food, music, and heritage. Judging by the number of taco specials around town today, Scottsdale was definitely embracing it.
Back at the hotel, we tackled all the glamorous travel activities—using the gym, doing two loads of laundry, and grocery shopping at a nearby Safeway. Not exactly exciting, but necessary after nearly a week on the road.
Even so, the afternoon ended up being really enjoyable. Tomorrow is officially my birthday, and it honestly made my day already receiving birthday messages from friends and family back home in Australia. It’s a nice reminder that even when you’re overseas, people are still thinking about you.
Tomorrow should be especially fun because we’re catching up with our friend Chris, whom we originally met years ago on a cruise through Asia. After almost a week of travelling, it’ll be really nice to see a familiar face again. We’ve got dinner and an escape room planned for my birthday, which should make for a memorable birthday.Read more
Day 5
May 6 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
EV Chaos, Escape Rooms and Birthday Celebrations 🎂🔋🕵️
Today was my birthday and, simply put, it turned into a far more interesting day than expected. To be honest, I can’t remember the last time I was overseas for my birthday—although now that I’m 53, there’s every chance I’ve simply forgotten! We didn’t have a huge amount planned for today, partly because some of our original ideas didn’t quite work out.
Two places I’d considered visiting were the Desert Botanical Garden and Taliesin West. The Desert Botanical Garden is one of Arizona’s best-known attractions, featuring thousands of desert plants from across the American Southwest, including giant saguaro cacti and native desert landscapes. Taliesin West, meanwhile, was the winter home and architectural school of famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright and is considered one of Scottsdale’s most important historic sites.
Both sounded really interesting—but so did the prices. Entry to the garden alone was USD$32.95 (about AUD$50), while Taliesin West was USD$44 (roughly AUD$67). By the time we added everything up, it felt like a pretty expensive day before we’d even started, so we decided instead to explore Scottsdale itself.
Thankfully, after several nights of poor sleep, I finally had a decent rest and woke up feeling much more normal. After breakfast, we headed out to explore Old Town Scottsdale. It has a really good atmosphere, mixing Southwestern-style buildings with galleries, restaurants, souvenir shops, and modern boutiques. It still leans into its Old West image, with wide streets, public artwork, and plenty of outdoor areas. We may have arrived a little too early though, because most of the shops were still closed, but it was still nice to walk around before it became busy.
From there, we headed to Kierland Commons, an open-air shopping and dining area in North Scottsdale. Unfortunately, most of our morning was dominated by one issue: finding somewhere to charge the EV before returning it tomorrow. I will definitely leave this trip wiser. When I booked the car, I genuinely thought choosing an electric vehicle was a smart idea given rising petrol prices linked to tensions in the Middle East. In reality, it’s probably created more stress than it’s saved.
When we finally found a charging station, we tried several times to get it working but nothing happened. Then we checked our banking apps and discovered pending charges totalling more than USD$140. After recovering from mild panic, Ted called the bank while I rang the charging company. Thankfully, the lady I spoke to explained it was only a pre-authorisation amount and reassured us that because the charger had never actually worked, the charges would disappear shortly.
The next part of the day felt mostly like wasted time as we drove around trying to find another charging station. One thing we quickly discovered is that Google Maps doesn’t seem particularly good at identifying which chargers are public and which are private, meaning several we found weren’t actually usable.
While driving past a Hyundai dealership, I noticed some EV chargers outside. I went in and asked whether they were for public use and the gentleman working there said yes. After failing yet again to find another working charger, we returned to the dealership and tried there instead. Naturally, things still weren’t straightforward. The machine wouldn’t accept our cards, so we attempted to download the charging app—only to discover we couldn’t register because we weren’t US residents.
At that point, the same gentleman from earlier came back outside to check how we were going. He suggested plugging the car in while he tried paying through his own digital wallet. Amazingly, it worked immediately and the charger finally started. When we asked how we could pay him back, he simply said, “Don’t worry, for you today it’s free.”
After the morning we’d had, we were incredibly grateful. It was just a genuinely kind thing for somebody to do, especially for complete strangers. I’ve always believed there are more good people in the world than bad ones, and today definitely reinforced that.
Since the charging would take about an hour, we walked nearby looking for somewhere to eat and ended up at Craft 64. The restaurant has a relaxed atmosphere and focuses on wood-fired pizzas and fresh ingredients. After the stress of the morning, it was a very welcome break.
Afterwards, we found a grocery store where we bought Cadbury chocolate and peanut brittle as a thank-you gift for the Hyundai employee who had helped us. It felt like the least we could do considering how much stress he’d saved us from. We definitely left with a valuable lesson though: No more EV rental cars on holidays!
Back at the hotel, we spent a quiet afternoon recovering from the Great Charging Crisis of 2026 and were honestly too scared to drive anywhere else 😄
That evening, however, things improved dramatically. We headed out to catch up with our friend Chris and his boyfriend Cliff for drinks at Buffalo Wild Wings before heading to Escapology for my birthday activity—an escape room. We also met two of their friends, Christopher and Douglas, although they arrived slightly late thanks to the Escapology website sending them to the wrong address.
Out of all the available rooms, I chose the Scooby Doo-themed experience—partly because it had good reviews, and partly because I hoped it might make turning 53 feel slightly less confronting.
The room itself was really well done—bright, colourful, animated, and very Scooby Doo. The storyline involved solving clues to uncover a mystery involving the disappearance of members of Mystery Inc. and identifying the villain before time ran out. Even with six of us involved, we worked together surprisingly well and escaped with just over a minute to spare.
We then headed to AZ88 for dinner. Located near Scottsdale’s waterfront area, it has a modern atmosphere and was very lively for a weeknight. We really liked this part of Scottsdale—it felt social and energetic without being overwhelming. The food was great, but the highlight was definitely when Chris surprised me with a strawberry shortcake dessert for my birthday ❤️
Since everyone except Ted and I had work the next day, it wasn’t a late night—but it ended up being a really enjoyable birthday after a fairly stressful start. Tomorrow we leave Arizona behind and head back to California, where the next part of our adventure begins—our cruiseRead more
Day 6
May 8 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
The Queen Mary, Peak Hour Traffic and Cruise Eve 🚢⚓
We’re cautiously optimistic that jet lag is finally behind us because last night we both slept really well—and at normal times too.
We’re also very glad we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express because it provided a genuinely good breakfast. Since we were heading back to Los Angeles today, we packed up our bags after using the gym and made our way back to Phoenix Airport.
When the rental car agent asked how we’d found the EV, we may not have been entirely truthful when we told him it had been “great” 😄
The morning was going smoothly until Ted’s suitcase somehow toppled backwards down an escalator while we were heading upward. Thankfully nobody was hurt and nothing was damaged, but it definitely added a bit of drama to the day.
One thing we really appreciated at Phoenix Airport was the bag drop service located at the rental car facility itself. It meant we could check our luggage before even catching the transfer train to the terminal, saving us from dragging heavy bags all the way through the airport. I’m not usually someone who praises airports, but this one genuinely made travelling feel easier—including the check-in agent who waived the baggage fees for us.
Since we arrived early, we grabbed an early lunch at Four Peaks Brewing Company before boarding our flight. While waiting at the gate, we started talking seriously about our upcoming flight from Los Angeles to Honolulu later in the trip. Originally we’d planned to travel standby using staff travel benefits, but the loads were already looking pretty tight. In the end, we decided the smarter option was simply to buy confirmed tickets for peace of mind. We managed to find reasonably priced fares with Delta Air Lines, which made us feel more relaxed about that part of the trip.
Our flight with American Airlines was actually very good. One thing we’ve both noticed is how much the airline seems to have improved in recent years. Similarly, Los Angeles International Airport itself also feels far more modern and organised compared to previous visits, when it often felt a bit tired and chaotic.
Once we arrived, we repeated our previous Uber strategy and headed south toward Long Beach. Our driver was friendly enough, although his car definitely could have benefited from a good clean. Unfortunately, because we arrived during mid-afternoon, the trip took nearly twice as long thanks to Los Angeles peak-hour traffic.
Tonight’s accommodation is something a little different. Before joining our cruise tomorrow, we’re spending the night aboard the Queen Mary, permanently docked in Long Beach Harbour. It’s not every day you get to spend the night aboard a piece of history.
Originally launched in 1936, the Queen Mary was one of the world’s most famous ocean liners and represented the golden age of transatlantic travel. During World War II, the ship was converted into a troop transport vessel and became known as the “Grey Ghost” because of its speed and grey wartime paintwork. After retiring from active service in the 1960s, the ship was permanently moored in Long Beach and transformed into a floating hotel and attraction. We’d previously visited the ship as tourists and done one of the guided tours, but staying onboard overnight felt like a very different experience.
The receptionist warned us about a few things upon arrival: the walls can be thin, the air conditioning and heating are centrally controlled, and because… well… it’s a ship, the nearest restaurants are a decent walk away. Thankfully though, we didn’t really notice noise from other rooms at all.
Our cabin was actually really charming in an old-fashioned way. The room still retains much of the ship’s original character, with polished wood furnishings, brass fittings, vintage-style décor, and porthole-style windows that make it feel more like travelling aboard a classic ocean liner than staying in a hotel. It definitely felt different to your average modern accommodation.
After unloading our bags, we decided the walk to dinner would count as our exercise for the evening and headed across the harbour toward the restaurants at Shoreline Village. The walk turned out to be easier than expected and we arrived much quicker than the receptionist had suggested. At one point, however, somebody onboard the Queen Mary decided to sound the ship’s horn—which absolutely scared the life out of us and pretty much everyone nearby.
There were several restaurant options nearby including Chili’s, Hooters, and Outback Steakhouse, but we ended up choosing P.F. Chang’s, which has always been one of our favourites. It was exactly the kind of meal I’d been craving after a week of fairly unhealthy holiday food. I ordered a dish packed with vegetables and tofu—although the kitchen initially forgot to include the tofu altogether!
After dinner, we walked over to Vons to buy some wine for the cruise tomorrow. It was nice walking through Long Beach again as we’d stayed in this area a few years ago and remembered enjoying it then too. By this stage though, we’d walked quite a long way from the Queen Mary, so Ted suggested we get an Uber back rather than walk at night. It never really felt unsafe—just further away than we wanted to walk.
When we arrived back at the ship, I realised I no longer had our room key cards. I still have no idea what happened to them because I’m usually very careful with things like that. My best guess is that I’d had them ready while getting out of the Uber and accidentally left them on the seat. Thankfully, it wasn’t a major issue and reception simply replaced them for us.
Tomorrow morning we’re hoping to explore more of the Queen Mary before the tourists arrive—and best of all, tomorrow marks the beginning of the cruise part of our holiday.
Mexico, here we come.Read more
Day 7
May 8, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Cruise Chaos, FlowRiders and Tiki Bars 🍹🌊 🚢
Despite being warned that the walls aboard the The Queen Mary were quite thin, we actually slept really well. Afterwards, I also remembered somebody once telling me the Queen Mary is supposedly haunted, but thankfully nothing went bump in the night either.
Since we’d already bought breakfast supplies from Vons the previous evening, we ate in the room before heading up to the Promenade Deck for coffee and toast. It was less about the food and more about the experience—sitting aboard a former luxury ocean liner while overlooking the harbour definitely felt a bit special.
After breakfast, we spent some time wandering around the ship exploring. It felt completely different compared to our previous visit because there weren’t crowds of tourists everywhere this time. Without the constant noise and guided tours, it was easier to appreciate the ship itself and imagine what travelling aboard her during the golden age of ocean liners might have been like.
Before long though, it was time to head to our cruise ship nearby. We collected our bags, checked out, and went downstairs to wait for our Uber transfer. What should have been a quick pickup ended up taking much longer than expected because our driver was stuck in heavy traffic before reaching us. Thankfully, we’d left early so it wasn’t really an issue.
When we arrived at the Long Beach Cruise Terminal, there were two cruise ships docked, which made finding the correct terminal slightly confusing. After dragging our luggage through part of the car park, we finally reached our ship: Navigator of the Seas.
Ted had wisely printed our luggage tags beforehand, which should have meant a quick and easy bag drop. However, one staff member insisted we needed colour tags instead and directed us toward a huge queue to have them reprinted. Luckily, we checked with another attendant first, who told us our original tags were completely fine—saving us at least an hour standing in line.
One thing we both noticed straight away was how unfriendly many of the terminal staff seemed. Several were openly yelling instructions at passengers while others looked thoroughly unimpressed to be there at all. This included one particularly stern check-in agent who could have passed for the Bride of Frankenstein’s matron of honour.
Once onboard, the first thing we noticed was the huge number of children. We’ve done several cruises before, but never one that felt quite this family-heavy. Since our stateroom wasn’t ready yet, we headed to the Windjammer Marketplace buffet first. OMG. It was absolute chaos. Far too many people packed into far too small a space. Between kids running everywhere, people circling tables looking for seats, and the general noise level, it definitely wasn’t the relaxed start to the cruise we’d imagined.
As soon as our cabin became available, we escaped there for a bit of peace and quiet. Thankfully, our luggage arrived not long afterwards, which made settling in much easier. After unpacking, we explored the ship properly. I don’t really know how to phrase this politely, but the overall crowd onboard definitely felt a bit more… Walmart. We’ve cruised from Florida several times before and there’s usually a broader mix of passengers, whereas this cruise seemed to have a very particular vibe.
That said, there’s still a lot to like about this ship. Navigator of the Seas has waterslides, a rock-climbing wall, an escape room, mini golf, and the FlowRider—the onboard surfing simulator where people can practise surfing and bodyboarding on artificial waves. There’s definitely no shortage of things to do.
Later on, we grabbed some pizza from one of the cafés because the buffet hadn’t reopened yet, and thankfully when we eventually returned to Windjammer later in the evening, the atmosphere was far calmer than earlier in the day.
Ted also encouraged me to collect the complimentary souvenir cup included with our drinks package. The cups are electronically programmed so the ship’s drink dispensers recognise whether you’re entitled to unlimited soft drinks or not. At the first bar I visited, the staff member insisted our package didn’t include it. I tried again somewhere else a bit later and was given one immediately without any problem whatsoever. Consistency clearly isn’t always a strong point onboard.
Since there was an LGBT meet-up scheduled for 9:30pm, we relaxed in the cabin for a while first—and I even needed a nap—before heading to The Bamboo Room. The venue itself was really fun, decorated in a tropical tiki-bar style with bamboo features, hanging lanterns, colourful lighting, and island-inspired décor. It had a relaxed atmosphere and ended up being a great place for the gathering.
There was a really good turnout too, and we met several nice people including Mike and Tyler from Los Angeles, Chad from Hawaii, Geoff from New York, Ben and Brett from Las Vegas, and a man named Kenny who was dressed as a Minion. Yes, really. There were also some Australians there, although we never quite got the chance to properly meet them.
Even though we only stayed until around 11:30pm—which honestly counts as a late night for us these days—it was really nice meeting some of our fellow passengers and starting to settle into cruise life.
Tomorrow: Mexico awaits.Read more
Day 8
May 9, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌬 18 °C
Sea Days, Smoothies and Cruise Ship Trivia 🛳️🍹
We woke moderately late for us—around 7am—and headed upstairs for breakfast shortly afterwards. Today was our first full sea day, as we don’t arrive into Cabo San Lucas until tomorrow afternoon. Thankfully, breakfast was nowhere near as chaotic as embarkation day. The dining room atmosphere was much calmer, which made the whole experience considerably more enjoyable.
One thing we have noticed though is that the food options onboard aren’t quite as good as on some of our previous cruises. The biggest issue is that with Ted being diabetic and myself being vegetarian, we often need to ask staff whether meals are low sugar or vegetarian because the descriptions usually don’t make it very clear. Other cruise lines we’ve travelled on have generally labelled those options much better.
Since today was meant to be more of a relaxing day, we headed upstairs to the Cosmopolitan Club on Deck 14, which has great views over the pool deck and is usually a quieter part of the ship. As it turned out, some of the people we’d met the night before had exactly the same idea. Ben and Brett were already there when we arrived, and Tyler joined us later on.
When the cruise director made an announcement over the PA about the day’s activities, I decided to give Morning Trivia a try, and Ben and Brett decided to come along too. We headed down to the Schooner Bar on Deck 4 and joined a surprisingly competitive trivia session involving 20 questions. Important topics included things like how many stars are on the New Zealand flag and how many countries begin with the letter L.
We weren’t exactly confident afterwards when we realised we’d only answered 10 questions correctly… until we discovered we’d actually won. Apparently everyone else had done even worse. Our reward for this incredible intellectual achievement was a complimentary pen each.
Since it still wasn’t lunchtime, I thought I’d try going to the gym. When I first checked upstairs, it didn’t look too busy, so I went back to the room to change and grab water. Somehow, in the five minutes it took me to do that, half the ship appeared to have had exactly the same idea.
Suddenly every bench, dumbbell, and machine was occupied. To make things even more frustrating, there were also people just standing around inside the gym seemingly observing everyone else work out while blocking access to equipment. Despite the chaos, I still managed to put together some kind of workout. Fortunately, my drinks package includes smoothies, so afterwards I rewarded myself with a “Muscle Builder” smoothie. Whether it actually builds muscle remains to be seen.
Lunch brought us back to the Windjammer Marketplace for another round of what can only really be described as feeding time at the zoo. Honestly, I’m hoping we end up eating more meals in the formal dining room during the cruise because it’s significantly calmer and the meals feel much more balanced.
Since the ship feels noticeably busier than most cruises we’ve done before, we spent the afternoon relaxing in the cabin instead. I showered, read for a while, and generally took it easy while Ted watched the tennis.
Tonight was formal night onboard, so after dinner we headed back to the cabin and put on our Sunday best before going out for drinks. Interestingly, only a fairly small percentage of passengers seemed to fully embrace the formal theme, although it was genuinely cute seeing some of the younger kids dressed up in little suits and dresses. There was also a 70s-themed event happening elsewhere onboard, and some of the outfits people had put together were very… groovy.
We went to our first show tonight in the Royal Theatre called Ballroom Fever. We hadn’t planned on seeing it - we were literally walking by the theatre and thought we’d check it out. Even though we’d missing the beginning, it was a very good show with a lot of talent. Hopefully we can catch a few more shows whilst we’re onboard.
We ended up back at The Bamboo Room and caught up again with several of the people we’d met the previous night. Before that though, we met a Texan man named Joe who seemed far more interested in socialising with the gays than spending time with his wife 🤔
Throughout the evening we also met a couple from Sydney along with several other passengers before Kenny decided everyone with a drinks package should participate in rainbow shots.
As we don’t arrive into Cabo until around midday tomorrow, we didn’t feel too guilty staying out until around 12:30am—which definitely counts as a late night for us these days.Read more
Day 9
May 10 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 25 °C
Tender Boats, Tourist Traps and Waterslides 🇲🇽🚢
Since we’d stayed up fairly late the night before, we also ended up sleeping in a bit this morning to compensate. Today was our first shore day of the cruise, visiting Cabo San Lucas.
As we weren’t scheduled to arrive until around midday, the morning onboard was very relaxed. The cruise staff announced that tender tickets were available for collection, but after seeing the enormous queue, we decided there was no point rushing since we didn’t have any strict plans ashore anyway. Instead, we sensibly went to breakfast first and collected our tickets afterwards—which resulted in us receiving tender group number 41!
Later in the morning, we joined Ben, Brett, and a guy named Jonas whom we’d met earlier in the cruise for another round of trivia. After our unexpected victory the previous day, we were probably feeling quietly confident. Ironically, even though we scored higher this time with 14 correct answers, we somehow only managed third place. Clearly competition onboard had improved overnight.
One good thing about our stateroom location was that we could hear the boarding announcements from the room, so we simply waited until the tender numbers reached the high 30s before grabbing our backpacks and heading downstairs. Ben and Brett suggested we all explore together, which sounded like a good idea. One thing that surprised me though was just how many passengers had decided to remain onboard instead of visiting Cabo. Even while we were waiting to board our tender boat, some people who’d gone ashore earlier were already returning to the ship. Looking back, we probably should have taken that as a sign.
Cabo San Lucas itself is located at the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula and is best known for its beaches, fishing, nightlife, and resort atmosphere. The area has grown rapidly over recent decades into one of Mexico’s most popular cruise and holiday destinations, particularly for American tourists escaping colder climates.
Once we arrived ashore, we were immediately swarmed by locals selling tours, water taxis, souvenirs, and various other things. We quickly headed toward the marina waterfront where we were greeted by a very relaxed sea lion who seemed more than happy posing for photos with tourists. After that though… we didn’t do much.
One issue was that there didn’t seem to be much direction or signage pointing visitors toward anything particularly interesting nearby. We wandered through parts of the marina area, took photos of a few buildings, explored some side streets, and browsed through several souvenir shops—many of which seemed to specialise in novelty items, including penis-shaped pencil holders.
Unfortunately, the overall atmosphere just didn’t really click with us. I always try to focus on the positives when travelling, but something about Cabo felt very commercial and tourist-focused without much real character underneath. Maybe we simply didn’t find the right parts of town, but the combination of aggressive selling, limited walkable attractions, and intense heat made it difficult to properly enjoy.
In the end, we returned to the ship after only about an hour ashore. Even after looking back over some of the recommended attractions we’d printed beforehand, it still seemed unusual that Cabo is such a major cruise stop—although to be fair, there are probably some excellent excursions available outside the immediate marina area.
The tender ride back to the ship wasn’t particularly enjoyable either. After arriving alongside the ship, we ended up sitting in the heat for over 20 minutes waiting for clearance to disembark. By this point, I decided we needed to do something at least moderately entertaining, so I suggested trying the ship’s waterslides. Ben and Brett were keen immediately, while Ted preferred the idea of relaxing back in the cabin.
I’d wanted to try the slides ever since seeing them towering above the ship back in Los Angeles, so I’m glad we finally did it. They actually weren’t nearly as terrifying as I’d expected, but that suited me perfectly. It was just nice doing something fun and lighthearted after the somewhat underwhelming afternoon ashore.
After dinner, Ted and I both agreed that tonight would be an early one. We arrive into Mazatlán tomorrow morning, so it seemed like a good excuse to get some proper sleep. Although admittedly, I don’t think either of us expected we’d be in bed by 8:30pm.
Still, cruises aren’t just about sightseeing. Sometimes they’re just about relaxing too.Read more
Day 10
May 10 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Cliff Divers, Colonial Streets and Cruise Ship Trivia 🎭🚢
Going to bed early last night definitely paid off as we both had an amazing sleep, which felt overdue after all the late nights, driving, flying, gym workouts, sightseeing and everything else we’ve packed into this holiday so far. Today we were much more optimistic about our next port, Mazatlán, especially after Cabo San Lucas had failed to deliver for us yesterday. Mazatlán, located on Mexico’s Pacific coast in the state of Sinaloa, is one of the country’s oldest beach destinations and is often nicknamed the “Pearl of the Pacific”. Unlike Cabo, which felt heavily built around tourism, Mazatlán has a much more authentic and grounded feel, combining beaches, historic buildings and everyday Mexican life.
Our arrival time of 8:30am was also much better than yesterday’s afternoon arrival, meaning we could explore before the full heat and humidity of the day settled in. After breakfast, we packed up our backpack and headed ashore.
Mazatlán has one of the smartest tourist navigation systems we’ve seen anywhere. As soon as you leave the cruise terminal, there is a blue line painted along both the road and footpaths that leads visitors all the way into the historic centre and main square. It made exploring incredibly easy. There are also other coloured lines throughout the city that branch off into different areas, including routes towards the malecón, beaches, markets and lookout points. It takes a lot of the stress out of navigating somewhere unfamiliar. The locals even operate golf buggy style shuttles that transport cruise passengers from the ship itself to the start of the blue line, which was a good idea in the already warm weather.
As we’re heading further south, our destinations are definitely becoming hotter, but even though Mazatlán was warm, it was still manageable in the morning. Immediately we liked this place more. Cabo San Lucas felt like a tourist town, whereas Mazatlán felt like a real Mexican city with actual character and history. I’ve always liked Mexican culture and that definitely reflected how much more we enjoyed this stop.
The first major building we came across was the beautifully restored Angela Peralta Theatre, named after a famous Mexican opera singer from the 1800s. The theatre sits in the middle of Mazatlán’s historic centre and is considered one of the cultural hearts of the city. The surrounding streets had a lot of colourful colonial buildings, shaded plazas and locals quietly going about their day.
The blue line then led us into Machado Square, one of the best areas we saw all day. The square was lined with restaurants, trees and historic buildings. It looked artistic, slightly eccentric and very different from anything we’d seen elsewhere on the trip. The whole square had a relaxed but lively feel to it.
Not far away was the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, the city’s main cathedral. The building was impressive both in size and detail, with its yellow towers, ornate façade and mixture of Gothic and Baroque architecture. It looked even better against the bright blue Mexican sky.
We were keen to see the cliff divers, so we continued walking along the malecón, Mazatlán’s long oceanfront promenade. The coastline here was fantastic, with crashing surf, rocky outcrops, sculptures and viewpoints all the way along. The cliff divers perform at a place called El Clavadista, where divers leap from a high rock platform into a narrow inlet below, timing their jumps with the incoming waves. Watching them was equal parts impressive and insane.
One thing that really surprised us nearby was finding a street and plaza dedicated entirely to The Beatles. Apparently Mazatlán has had a long-standing connection with the band for decades, and there are statues recreating the famous Abbey Road crossing, Beatles themed artwork and references scattered around the area. Completely random, but also pretty cool.
We also loved the colourful houses and buildings throughout the city. Some were painted bright pinks, blues and yellows, whilst others had balconies, courtyards and older colonial details that made the streets feel full of personality. Even just wandering through the quieter streets was enjoyable because there always seemed to be something interesting to look at around the next corner.
Eventually we wandered further away from the tourist areas and headed towards Ley Central supermarket. Hardly anyone spoke English there, but between our limited Spanish and a bit of pointing, we managed perfectly fine. On the way back we walked through the Pino Suarez Market, a huge local market selling everything from seafood and meat to spices, fruit and souvenirs. I’ll admit though, the vegetarian in me struggled a bit with the overpowering smell of meat throughout parts of the market.
As the day became progressively hotter and more humid, we returned to the ship around midday for showers and lunch. Overall we were much happier with Mazatlán because it felt like it showed us the “real” Mexico far more than Cabo did. One thing we did notice throughout the city though was the very strong police and military presence, which felt both reassuring and slightly confronting at the same time.
Later in the afternoon we relaxed in the adults only pool area on the ship, although that would have been easier without one extremely loud woman dominating the nearby hot tub conversation. I then headed to the gym before joining Ben, Brett, Jonas and another couple for trivia again. Questions included which country won the first FIFA World Cup and how many capitals South Africa has. Once again our teamwork paid off because we won. This time the prizes were a bottle opener, a highlighter or a fold-up shopping bag packed into a tiny pouch. I chose the bag.
While waiting for dinner, I grabbed some Mexican food from El Loco Fresh near the pool deck before we headed to the main dining room later on. Afterwards we decided to see another onboard show featuring comedian and magician Ed Alonzo, known as the “Misfit of Magic”. He’s apparently worked on shows like Saved by the Bell and has a reputation for combining old-school magic tricks with fast paced comedy and audience participation. Normally comedy acts can be very hit and miss for me, but this guy was excellent. He had the crowd laughing almost the entire show, his timing was sharp and some of the tricks genuinely had us wondering how he pulled them off. He also had the sort of chaotic energy that suited a cruise crowd perfectly.
We finished the night with a few drinks in the Bamboo Room with Ben and Brett before calling it a night reasonably early. Overnight we lose an hour crossing time zones, and tomorrow we arrive in Puerto Vallarta — a place that already means a lot to us, as it’s where we spent our honeymoon back in 2019.Read more
Day 11
May 12 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C
Puerto Vallarta, Party Vibes and Pods of Dolphins 🐬🎉
We both had another great sleep, so cruise ship life is definitely agreeing with us. We grabbed coffees this morning although, truthfully, the coffee onboard continues to be fairly terrible and definitely not what we’re used to back home in Australia.
Today we arrived into Puerto Vallarta, where disembarkation was much easier because there was no need for tender boats. Once we were ready, we simply walked off the ship. Actually escaping the port building itself was another story.
We seemed to spend almost a kilometre winding our way through a maze of shops selling everything imaginable—Mexican chocolates, jewellery, tequila, massages, sombreros, and even photos with a donkey. As usual, there were endless offers of taxis and tours as well. Rather than dealing with all of that, we walked a short distance away to a nearby hotel, called up an Uber, and one arrived within minutes.
We headed straight to Zona Romántica, the part of Puerto Vallarta where we stayed during our honeymoon. It was very much how we remembered it, although there seemed to be noticeably more construction happening now than before.
One place I especially wanted to revisit was El Dorado, where we’d had a really memorable meal during our last trip. Since it was still fairly early in the day, we settled for iced coffees and corn muffins instead, which were actually excellent. We weren’t even particularly hungry after breakfast onboard, but the service there was genuinely very good and we didn’t want to just order the bare minimum. The staff even brought us cold towels and a personal electric fan while we sat there, which felt necessary because the humidity had already started kicking in.
Afterwards, we walked along the famous Malecón Puerto Vallarta enjoying the atmosphere and sea breeze. The weather here definitely felt more comfortable than Mazatlán thanks to the ocean air, although it still became very hot later in the day.
The malecón itself is one of the highlights of Puerto Vallarta—a long beachfront promenade lined with sculptures, palm trees, restaurants, street performers and shops. Along the walk we passed several famous bronze sculptures, including “The Boy on the Seahorse,” one of the city’s best-known landmarks. There were also musicians performing, locals fishing near the rocks, and plenty of tourists stopping constantly for photos.
One thing we really like about Puerto Vallarta is that it still feels very open and walkable despite being such a major tourist destination. The cobblestone streets, colourful buildings and surrounding green mountains give the city a lot of character. As we continued further inland though, the heat and humidity became pretty brutal. We were very glad we’d explored earlier in the morning before things became unbearable.
Eventually we called another Uber, although Ted was keen to do some shopping first at a shopping centre near the cruise terminal. Since I’m not exactly someone who enjoys retail therapy, I tagged along slightly begrudgingly—particularly when we wandered through a fairly high-end shopping complex filled with extremely expensive stores.
Ironically, I became much more enthusiastic once we ended up at Walmart. I genuinely never thought I’d say those words in my lifetime, but we managed to buy some ridiculously cheap gym clothes there which I definitely needed.
Returning to the ship afterwards felt amazing. Walking back into air conditioning, having a proper shower and putting on clean clothes after several days of Mexican heat honestly felt heavenly.
After lunch, most of the boys were keen for trivia again and I’m happy to report that our winning streak somehow continued—although only just. Questions included what the Gioconda is better known as and which country lemurs are native to. This time our prizes included caps and bottle openers, and Jonas’s husband Scott kindly handed the leftover prizes to a nearby group of kids.
Later in the afternoon, Ted and I watched from our balcony as the ship departed Puerto Vallarta. It was actually more interesting than expected because a military-looking patrol boat appeared to escort us away from port, while another smaller police vessel seemed busy chasing a jet skier who had ventured far too close to the cruise ship.
After dinner, we took a walk around the upper deck and unexpectedly spotted a pod of dolphins swimming and jumping alongside the ship. In my excitement, I quickly pulled out my iPhone to film the dolphins… only to realise afterwards that I’d forgotten to actually press record. So sadly, you’ll just have to trust me that it happened.
Later in the evening, we relaxed with drinks in The Bamboo Room before most of the gays we’ve met onboard gradually turned up around 9:30pm.
There was also an 80s party happening in the ship’s Royal Promenade, which turned out to be a lot of fun to watch. The Royal Promenade basically acts as the main indoor street running through the centre of the ship, lined with bars, cafés, shops and entertainment spaces. Throughout the cruise they transform it into a giant party area with music, themed events, parades and dance parties, and the atmosphere there at night is actually really good.
We definitely had doubts about this cruise during the first day because the crowds and overall atmosphere initially felt overwhelming. Looking back now though, the ship really does have a great social vibe. Even though there are more kids onboard than any cruise we’ve done previously, they haven’t been a problem at all—and some of them have actually been pretty funny. More importantly, we’ve met some genuinely good people during this trip.
Now that we’ve visited all the ports on this cruise, the next two days will be sea days—and we’re looking forward to them. After so much sightseeing and heat over the past week, it feels like a good chance to reset before arriving back in Los Angeles.Read more
Day 12
May 13, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Escape Rooms, Shuffleboard Confusion and Late Night Game Shows 🎭😂
Today was our first full sea day after several sightseeing days in Mexico, so apologies in advance if there isn’t quite as much happening today! We’re also looking forward to heading to Hawaii in a couple of days as a change from our recent week of cruise ship life. Overnight we regained another hour due to crossing back through time zones, so our reward was an extra hour of sleep.
After breakfast, we spent most of the morning relaxing in the adults only section of the ship until around 10:30am, when I headed off to an escape room activity I’d booked onboard. Apparently these escape rooms are something Royal Caribbean specialises in, although unlike normal escape rooms where you play with your own small group, these involve complete strangers all working together.
Things didn’t exactly start smoothly. The games master arrived fairly late, although in fairness he may simply have had a busy schedule elsewhere onboard. Then the introduction video refused to cooperate, leading to several awkward minutes of technical difficulties before we could finally begin. Once we entered though, the room itself was genuinely impressive. It had been designed to resemble an old observatory, complete with scientific equipment, mysterious controls, hidden compartments and atmospheric lighting. Royal Caribbean had clearly put a decent amount of effort into it.
Surprisingly, considering there were twelve strangers involved, most people worked together really well. Most being the key word. One older woman was so loud and domineering that it occasionally became difficult for the rest of us to contribute. The puzzles themselves were also genuinely challenging and at several points we needed hints from the games master because information wasn’t always being communicated properly between different parts of the group. Even so, it was still a lot of fun and definitely something I’d consider doing again on another Royal Caribbean cruise.
I deliberately ate lunch early afterwards because I figured the gym might be quieter while everyone else was eating. Thankfully the strategy worked, and the gym was far less crowded than the last time I attempted to work out onboard. Meanwhile, Ted had been messaging the others about playing quoits on deck, which somehow created confusion on several levels. Firstly, his phone autocorrected “quoits” to “coitus.” Secondly, the Americans had absolutely no idea what quoits even was (I think it’s called “ring toss”). Thirdly, Ted eventually realised he actually meant shuffleboard the entire time. In the end, none of us played anything because we couldn’t even find the equipment.
Ted and I later wandered down to check out the ship’s ice rink—not because either of us planned on skating, but simply because it still seems bizarre and impressive having a functioning ice skating rink inside a cruise ship sailing through Mexico. Afterwards we spent a fairly lazy afternoon back in the room while I continued my current Netflix addiction, Million Dollar Secret. We also decided to pre-book a cruise ship airport transfer for when we return to Los Angeles. It’s only slightly more expensive than using Uber, and neither of us particularly likes the idea of competing with several thousand passengers trying to order rideshares on disembarkation morning.
Tonight was another formal night onboard, so we thought we might try dining in the main dining room instead of the Windjammer Marketplace. Unfortunately it was already fully booked, so we’ll attempt that tomorrow night instead. We still dressed up though, although it’s interesting that the majority of passengers on this cruise don’t really seem to participate in formal night anymore. It definitely feels much more casual than cruises we’ve done in the past.
After dinner, we headed back to The Bamboo Room for drinks where Ben and Brett convinced us to attend the adults-only late-night activity called The Crazy Quest Game Show. The show basically involves teams of passengers racing around the theatre completing ridiculous challenges set by the cruise director. The tasks start off fairly harmlessly before becoming increasingly chaotic, involving costumes, dancing, audience participation and people willingly embarrassing themselves in the name of competition.
To say some passengers became committed to winning would be an understatement. Several people launched themselves into the challenges with absolutely no concern whatsoever for preserving their dignity, which honestly made the whole thing hilarious to watch. Let’s just say it definitely wasn’t a game show designed for shy people.
We ended up having a much later night than intended—well after midnight, which feels practically reckless at our age—but thankfully tomorrow is another sea day, so we can recover properly before eventually arriving back in Los Angeles.Read more
Day 13
May 14, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Trivia Wins, Dining Room Dinners and Packing for Home 🧳🏆
Today was a very riveting day…or not, considering we had absolutely no plans whatsoever. Still, days like these are good too, especially after several busy sightseeing days in Mexico. After a fairly average sleep—for some unknown reason my body insists on waking up at the same time every morning regardless of how late I go to bed—I decided to head to the dining room for breakfast instead of the Windjammer Marketplace as I needed a break from buffet life.
I’m glad I did because dining room breakfasts on cruise ships can sometimes be a bit hit and miss, but this one was excellent. It was nice having decent food in a calmer atmosphere without the chaos of the buffet upstairs, where navigating through crowds to reach something as simple as the hash browns can feel like a competitive sport. It was a shame Ted didn’t want to join me, although I know he definitely prefers the buffet experience.
After breakfast we caught up with the boys from trivia again and, somehow, we managed another win. At this point we were beginning to feel suspiciously overqualified for cruise ship trivia. Riding high from our latest victory, we decided to stay put in the same lounge for music trivia immediately afterwards. Unfortunately, this confirmed that our strengths definitely lie in general knowledge rather than identifying songs from five-second audio clips. We absolutely bombed at music trivia.
It’s also becoming noticeably colder as we continue sailing north back towards Los Angeles. The warmer Mexican weather already feels a long way away, and for the first time in days we didn’t feel permanently overheated walking around the ship. Since we disembark early tomorrow morning, we spent part of the afternoon packing our bags and attempting the usual cruise tradition of trying to fit everything back into suitcases that somehow felt larger on the way over.
Tonight though, I finally convinced Ted that we should try dinner in the main dining room instead of defaulting to the buffet again, and thankfully it didn’t disappoint. I had the salmon while Ted chose the lamb, and both meals were genuinely very good. It also felt nice having a slightly more relaxed and proper dinner experience for one of our final nights onboard.
We didn’t end up having a late night tonight as I’ve developed a headache which I suspect is simply from lack of sleep after several busy weeks of driving, flying, sightseeing and late nights. Instead, we had a quieter evening and started mentally preparing ourselves for the reality that this cruise is almost over.
It’s funny reflecting back on the first couple of days onboard because we genuinely had doubts about this cruise at the beginning. The ship initially felt overcrowded, noisy and slightly overwhelming compared to some of our previous cruises. But in hindsight, we’re very grateful we stuck with it because we ended up meeting some genuinely great people, and still got to experience some really memorable destinations along the way.Read more
Day 14
May 15 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 25 °C
Farewells, Flights and Finally Hawaii 🌺🌴
After a fairly average sleep, Ted and I woke moderately early for our departure from the cruise ship. Since we hadn’t really had the chance to properly say goodbye to everyone the night before, we met Ben and Brett for one final breakfast in the Windjammer Marketplace before we all eventually went our separate ways. One of the best parts about cruising is always the people you meet along the way, and this trip definitely reinforced that again.
Before leaving the ship entirely, I also ducked downstairs to the pizza area to refill our water bottles and managed to farewell Scott as well, who was sitting there quietly having a coffee before rejoining another cruise tomorrow with Jonas. It sounded pretty good being able to stay onboard and continue cruising.
Thankfully disembarkation itself was much easier than embarkation had been a week earlier, and it was also very straightforward finding our airport transfer bus. The decision to pre-book the cruise transfer turned out to be a smart one too. When we saw the crowds outside waiting for Ubers—and the surge pricing that came with them—we were very glad we’d gone with the bus instead.
The drive to Los Angeles International Airport was busy but nowhere near as bad as we’d feared. Even though we arrived very early for our flight, Delta still allowed us to check in and offload our luggage straight away. Unfortunately we weren’t lucky enough to have our baggage fees waived this time, with Delta charging us USD$45 per bag. Considering checked luggage is usually included back home in Australia, it definitely feels a bit rough paying extra for it here.
Food prices inside LAX weren’t exactly cheap either. We wandered over to the international terminal hoping the options might be better there, but eventually settled on some simpler food from a convenience-style store instead. It was still expensive, but definitely more reasonable than some of the restaurants. Oddly enough though, the charge for the food never actually appeared on our bank statement afterwards, so perhaps we ended up getting lunch for free after all.
Another minor annoyance was that Ted and I initially weren’t seated together on the flight. When we tried fixing it ourselves through the Delta app, it attempted to charge us extra for selecting seats, although thankfully the gate agent sorted it out for us anyway.
Once onboard the aircraft—which oddly smelled faintly like fish—we were otherwise very impressed. The plane felt modern, clean and far nicer than some of the older aircraft we’ve flown on recently. Just before departure we became briefly hopeful that we might have an empty seat next to us, but another passenger boarded at the last minute and filled it.
The flight itself was excellent though. We had complimentary Wi-Fi for the entire journey and the entertainment system was genuinely very good. Despite downloading shows onto my iPad beforehand, I instead ended up watching old episodes of Modern Family and I Love Lucy for most of the flight. Since we hadn’t really eaten much earlier in the day, the crew were also very generous with snacks throughout the journey. I even managed to get a crewfie with two of the cabin crew, which has become a bit of a tradition for me whenever I fly with airline crew around the world.
The only rough part of the flight came during descent into Hawaii when we hit some fairly strong turbulence caused by storms around the islands. Thankfully the landing itself was smooth enough, although once inside the airport the signage immediately became confusing, with passengers wandering in all directions trying to work out where baggage claim actually was. At least our bags arrived quickly, even if they were soaking wet from the torrential rain outside.
While waiting for our luggage, we spotted advertisements for an app called Holoholo, which apparently markets itself as Hawaii’s cheaper alternative to Uber. It sounded fantastic in theory. In practice, not so much. After sitting there for over fifteen minutes unsuccessfully trying to find a driver, we gave up entirely.
Since Uber pricing was very high—well over USD$100 to Waikiki—we started looking into public transport instead. This involved walking about ten minutes to a nearby bus stop with our luggage, although on the way we passed Honolulu’s relatively new Honolulu Skyline system, which didn’t exist when we last visited in 2019. Skyline is Hawaii’s first modern rail system and is designed to help reduce traffic congestion across Oahu. Even though it’s still being expanded, it already looks very modern and impressive.
Fortunately our public transport gamble paid off brilliantly. The local bus took us directly to Waikiki for just USD$3 each, which felt like incredible value considering Uber had wanted over one hundred dollars. Safe to say we’ll absolutely use that option again in the future.
Thanks to gaining time again flying west to Hawaii, both of us were feeling tired fairly early as our body clocks were still running on Los Angeles time. Thankfully we were immediately very happy with our hotel, Waikiki Circle Hotel. The hotel has been something of a Waikiki institution for decades and is known for its distinctive circular façade and unbeatable location directly opposite Waikiki Beach. While it’s certainly not ultra-luxury, it has a relaxed old-school Hawaiian feel that suits Waikiki perfectly. Even better, our fifth-floor room has a fantastic view of the beach right in the centre of everything.
Ted was especially keen to revisit one of his favourite places from our previous trip, The Cheesecake Factory, where we headed for dinner after about a twenty-minute wait. Judging by the crowd outside, it seemed like half of Waikiki had exactly the same dinner plan as us.
After such a long day of airports, flights, rain, transport confusion and time zone changes, neither of us had any interest in staying up late. Instead, we headed back to the hotel for an early night which honestly suited us perfectly. After all, we still have three more days in Hawaii ahead of us.Read more
Day 15
May 16 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
Waikiki Walks, Laundry Missions and Dinner at Duke’s 🍻🌴
Well, we didn’t quite get the sleep in we were hoping for. Even though the time difference between Honolulu and Los Angeles isn’t particularly huge, both of us were wide awake by around 4am. Not that it would have mattered much anyway, because two girls in the room next door decided that the middle of the night was apparently the perfect time for a screaming match. We initially hoped it would sort itself out for the sake of everyone else on that floor, but when it continued for quite a while we eventually called the front desk who promptly sent up security. Thankfully that ended things pretty quickly.
By that stage we were definitely awake, so we figured there wasn’t much point lying there trying to fall back asleep. Ted still had some bread left over from dinner the night before, so we headed down towards the beach after he made us both coffees using the little coffee machine in the room. The original plan was to feed the fish, although the birds turned out to be far more enthusiastic participants. Waikiki actually has a really nice atmosphere at that hour of the morning. There were already plenty of people out walking, jogging, surfing or simply sitting quietly watching the sunrise, and it gave the whole area a much calmer feel compared to the chaos later in the day.
One thing we badly needed to do though was laundry, considering we hadn’t properly washed clothes since Scottsdale. Unfortunately our usual reliable laundromat in Waikiki has disappeared since our last visit, which meant we needed to trek about twenty-five minutes into the suburbs to another one instead. Armed with a backpack full of dirty washing and laundry powder, we began the sweaty walk through the increasingly humid morning heat. Hawaii might look idyllic in postcards, but walking long distances carrying washing in tropical humidity definitely loses its glamour fairly quickly.
When we finally arrived at the laundromat it was surprisingly busy, especially considering how early it still was. While I stayed there to get the washing done, Ted walked over to a nearby Safeway to pick up some groceries. By the time we finished, neither of us had any interest in walking all the way back again in the heat, so we caught a local bus instead which was far more civilised.
After dropping the clean clothes back at the hotel, we headed down to the beach for a while to properly relax. Waikiki Beach might be famous and touristy, but it’s still beautiful. Sitting there watching the rolling surf, warm breeze and outrigger canoes drifting across the water was exactly the slower pace we needed after the cruise.
Ted was then keen for another visit to Ross Dress for Less for more shopping, which naturally thrilled me enormously. To sweeten the deal though, he also suggested donuts and iced coffee afterwards, which made the retail experience significantly more tolerable.
Since the weather wasn’t cooling down particularly quickly, we later headed to one of our old Waikiki favourites, Hula's Bar & Lei Stand, for a few beers. Hula’s is something of a Waikiki institution and has long been one of Hawaii’s most famous gay bars, known for its open-air setting, tropical atmosphere and views overlooking Kuhio Beach. It still had the same relaxed vibe we remembered, although the crowd definitely seemed much younger than last time we visited. Either Waikiki has changed, or we’re just getting older.
One of our longtime friends, Sean, who flies for Southwest Airlines, happened to be in Hawaii at the same time with his son Jordan and mother-in-law Andrea. We arranged to meet for dinner and Sean suggested Duke's Waikiki, which is one of the most iconic restaurants in Waikiki. Named after legendary Hawaiian surfer and Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku, the restaurant is famous for its beachfront location, live music and classic Hawaiian atmosphere.
Ted and I arrived first and initially grabbed a table in the bar area because it was available immediately, but we quickly realised we’d been seated directly beside the live band. My Apple Watch repeatedly giving me high noise alerts probably should’ve been the clue. We decided we’d rather wait longer for a quieter table in the main dining room instead.
As it turned out, Jordan wasn’t feeling well, so Sean ended up coming alone and also invited two coworkers along, including his first officer. Duke’s certainly wasn’t cheap, so I decided the salad bar was probably the smarter option anyway, although it turned out to be excellent with plenty of fresh and healthy choices. What we definitely didn’t expect though was Sean insisting on paying for everybody’s dinner. It was an incredibly generous thing to do and very much appreciated by all of us.
We’re hoping to catch up with Sean again tomorrow as we still haven’t met the rest of his family yet. Hopefully we’ll also get slightly cooler weather too, although judging by Hawaii so far, that might be optimistic.Read more
Day 16
May 17 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
Pancakes, Haircuts and Waikiki Sundays 🍳🍹
Even though we’re still waking up ridiculously early by normal holiday standards, we are at least sleeping reasonably well. This morning it was around 5am again, but there’s actually a real advantage to being awake early in Hawaii because you can get so much done before the heat and humidity properly settle in for the day.
Just like the other morning, Ted suggested we head out for an early walk around Waikiki before breakfast. One place we specifically wanted to go was IHOP - one of those classic American diner-style chains famous for enormous breakfasts, bottomless coffee and pancakes in about fifty different forms.
While we were walking to breakfast, I messaged Sean to see if Jordan was feeling better and whether they might like to catch up. Sean said Jordan was much improved and thought breakfast sounded like a good idea. The only slight issue was that while we were already sitting at our IHOP eating breakfast, it suddenly dawned on me there was another IHOP closer to where Sean was staying. Not disastrously far away, but it did mean we finished our meals, paid the bill and then walked across Waikiki to the other location. Ted also paid for a homeless lady’s breakfast while we were there, which was genuinely kind of him.
It was really good finally meeting Jordan too. He’s extremely animated, funny and outgoing, and kept us entertained the entire time we were there. Sean’s mother-in-law Andrea also joined us and is originally from Romania but now lives in London. Jordan visits her and her husband there quite often, so he’s already travelled far more internationally than most adults. The whole morning had a much more relaxed feel than dinner the night before, and it was nice properly catching up with Sean again. What’s funny is that we originally met over twenty years ago on MySpace, and we’ve managed to stay in contact over the years and have caught up several times around the world since then.
One thing I’d been putting off for a while was getting a haircut. I’m always a little hesitant getting haircuts overseas because it can either go very well or become a complete disaster for the remainder of the trip. Eventually I found an older woman operating out of a tiny little room inside the Sheraton Waikiki Beach Resort who had apparently been cutting hair for more than forty years. The price was reasonable and thankfully the haircut itself was too.
What hasn’t been easy though is finding a proper gym. Most gyms around Waikiki either seem attached to expensive resorts or located well outside the main tourist area, so my usual workout routine has definitely suffered slightly while we’ve been here.
For lunch we grabbed some simple food and sat on the grass beside the beach, which was nicer than another expensive restaurant meal anyway. The afternoon was then spent back at Hula's Bar & Lei Stand, although this time the atmosphere was completely different from the quieter crowd the previous day. Sunday afternoon drinks clearly seem to be a Waikiki tradition because the place was packed.
The biggest surprise though was running into our friend Shade again, who appears every single time we come to Hawaii! It’s almost becoming a tradition at this point. I even managed to dig out an old photo from 2012 showing the last time we’d seen each other, which definitely reminded us all how long ago that actually was.
Instead of going out somewhere expensive for dinner, we had the supermarket meals Ted bought yesterday and heated them up back at the hotel. Not exactly glamorous, but eating out constantly in the United States is becoming eye-wateringly expensive, even by Australian standards. Tomorrow is our final full day in Hawaii before we fly onwards to Japan.Read more
Day 17
May 18 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Pink Palaces, Waikiki Sunsets and Packing for Japan 🌴✈️
We both had another pretty good sleep last night, although that may be about to change again considering we’ll be flying into another time zone tomorrow. Ted was keen to head down early again this morning to feed the birds and fish with some leftover bread from yesterday. As it turns out though, somewhere along the way the feeding mission changed course slightly and he apparently ended up eating the bread himself while going for a walk instead. I stayed back in the room to do my stretching routine and have breakfast before he returned.
Once Ted got back, we headed out together to grab a coffee. Yesterday we’d noticed an enormous queue outside Kona Coffee Purveyors, which is famous for its premium Hawaiian coffee and particularly for the pastries supplied by the renowned Japanese bakery B. Patisserie from San Francisco. We thought arriving early might help us avoid the crowds. It absolutely did not. Even at seven in the morning the line was already stretching almost an entire block
Instead we walked to Duke's Lane Market & Eatery, which is a much more casual local-style café and convenience market tucked away behind the main Waikiki strip. It has a really relaxed atmosphere and serves coffee, sandwiches, pastries and takeaway meals mostly aimed at both tourists and locals wanting something quick without the chaos of the larger restaurants. Even though the service was surprisingly slow considering how early it still was, the prices were reasonable by Waikiki standards which immediately made it feel like a victory.
Since the morning weather was still cool and pleasant, we continued walking towards Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort, which is almost like a small city in itself — a sprawling beachfront resort complex filled with pools, lagoons, gardens, restaurants and shops spread across multiple towers right on Waikiki Beach. Walking through the property and along the beachfront path offers some amazing views back towards Diamond Head, so we walked for a while enjoying the breeze and scenery. On a previous visit we’d even spotted turtles swimming nearby.
Somehow while wandering around we accidentally found ourselves inside the famous “Pink Palace”, officially known as The Royal Hawaiian. We’d seen it countless times from outside before but had never properly explored inside the property itself. Opened in 1927, the Royal Hawaiian is one of Waikiki’s most iconic and historic luxury hotels, famous for its distinctive pink exterior, tropical gardens and old-world Hawaiian glamour. Walking through the open-air corridors and courtyards genuinely felt like stepping backwards into another era of Hawaii tourism. Despite Waikiki becoming increasingly modern and commercial over the years, the hotel still has this elegant, timeless atmosphere that feels very classic Hawaii.
The beach itself looked far too good not to enjoy properly, so Ted asked if I could quickly head back to the hotel and grab towels for us. Thankfully the beach wasn’t overly crowded and the weather remained comfortable for most of the morning. One thing that was pretty entertaining though was watching endless groups of young influencers and content creators posing dramatically in front of either the ocean, Diamond Head or both. To be fair though, you probably need a certain level of confidence to do that publicly, so credit to them.
Ted was then keen to walk all the way towards Diamond Head itself, which I probably would’ve agreed to if the weather had been cooler. Unfortunately somewhere along the return walk Ted started feeling quite unwell and really hasn’t bounced back properly since. We’re thinking it may have been the chips we shared at Hula's Bar & Lei Stand yesterday, which were absolutely drenched in oil.
For lunch Ted wanted Mexican food, so we headed to Oahu Mexican Grill for what turned out to be fairly average Mexican. Not terrible, but definitely not something we’ll remember long-term either. Afterwards we picked up some snacks and food supplies for tomorrow’s flight on ZIPAIR Tokyo. When I originally booked the flights a couple of months ago I accidentally selected a non-vegetarian meal. Even after contacting the airline more than six weeks before departure, they still refused to change it, which seems a little ridiculous. Hopefully I can still buy something onboard instead.
Back at the hotel we spent part of the afternoon reorganising and repacking our bags before heating up our frozen supermarket dinners downstairs in the communal microwave. Not exactly glamorous Hawaii dining, but we’ve reached the point where we’re quite happy not spending a fortune on every single meal.
Later in the evening we headed out for one final Waikiki walk, which is my favourite time of day here. There’s just something about Waikiki after sunset that feels relaxed and atmospheric in a way that daytime Waikiki often doesn’t. We wandered down Lewers Street where there were small evening markets selling handmade wooden carvings, local skincare products, jewellery and various Hawaiian souvenirs beneath fairy lights and palm trees.
We also passed Cat Café MOFF, one of Waikiki’s newer quirky attractions where guests can relax with coffee while interacting with resident cats. Japan has made cat cafés famous worldwide, so it somehow felt appropriate seeing one just before we head there tomorrow.
Ted was craving cheesecake, so we ended up back at The Cheesecake Factory where he picked up another sugar-free cheesecake to take away. Afterwards we cut through Moana Surfrider, often called the “First Lady of Waikiki”, where we sat overlooking the beach while he enjoyed dessert. The atmosphere down there after dark was genuinely beautiful — soft lighting, warm ocean air, waves rolling onto the sand and people quietly strolling along the shoreline.
We’re being picked up at 6am tomorrow morning for our flight to Japan, so tonight is another reasonably early night for us. Hawaii has definitely been a relaxing stopover.Read more
Day 18
May 19 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
One Last Day in Waikiki 🌴☕🌅
All the early starts we do, both at work and while travelling, must be conditioning us to wake up early because even though we had the alarm set for 5am, we were both awake before it even went off. Fortunately we’d done most of our packing the night before, so after breakfast we only needed to throw a few final things into our bags. Ted went outside for one last look around Waikiki — at least for now — before our Uber driver arrived out the front of the hotel.
We definitely got a chatty driver this morning. Within minutes he was talking about everything from Hawaiian politics to Australian wildlife, proudly claiming he was “koalafied” to speak Australian. Thankfully the roads were fairly quiet that early in the morning, so we made it to the International Airport without any problems.
Check-in with ZIPAIR Tokyo was surprisingly smooth and efficient, although the document control area — where they check your passport and boarding pass before security — was another story entirely. There was an enormous queue with what appeared to be one extremely stressed woman trying to manage the whole thing herself. Once we finally cleared security though, there wasn’t a huge amount to do airside, so naturally we ended up at Starbucks paying airport prices yet again for coffee and sandwiches before heading to our gate.
As we’d booked business class seats with ZIPAIR, we boarded early and weren’t entirely sure what to expect from a relatively new low-cost Japanese airline. Thankfully the experience ended up being much better than anticipated. The seats converted fully flat, there was plenty of storage space, charging ports and free Wi-Fi, and the cabin itself felt modern and clean. The main difference compared to traditional airlines is that food needs to be purchased separately either before the flight or onboard through the app, and entertainment options are fairly limited. Still, considering the price we paid, we really couldn’t complain. One thing we definitely noticed though was how meticulous and professional the flight attendants were — they checked absolutely everything regarding meal orders and pre-purchased extras with incredible attention to detail.
During the flight I finally watched Schindler's List, which I’m slightly embarrassed to admit I’d somehow never seen before. I also watched part of Bullet Train Explosion which, in hindsight, may not have been the smartest viewing choice considering where we were heading.
To be continued on the next footprint...Read more
Day 18 Part 2
May 20 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
From Waikiki to Tokyo Nights ✈️🌃🍜
Arriving in Tokyo initially seemed very straightforward until we reached immigration. OMG. I genuinely think it may have been one of the longest immigration lines I’ve ever seen in my life. At one point we spotted another enormous queue nearby and optimistically assumed perhaps Japanese citizens and tourists were separated into different lines. Nope. The second line was simply the overflow from the first one.
Eventually, after about an hour, we cleared immigration and customs. Thankfully our bags were already waiting for us by then, so we simply needed to head outside and find our transfer driver. Before leaving Australia, Ted had reasoned that organising a private transfer would probably be worth it after a long international flight rather than trying to navigate Tokyo public transport immediately. As it turns out, he was absolutely right. Our driver, Keiko, even came inside to greet us personally before driving us towards our accommodation.
The drive itself was actually really interesting because it showed us a side of Tokyo we probably never would’ve otherwise seen. Since most train lines are underground or enclosed, you often miss huge sections of the city while travelling normally. Along the way Keiko pointed out landmarks including Tokyo Disney Resort, which includes both Disneyland and DisneySea and is one of the most visited theme park resorts in the world. She also pointed out the famous Rainbow Bridge, the huge illuminated suspension bridge crossing Tokyo Bay connecting central Tokyo with Odaiba. Seeing the skyline, highways and industrial waterfront areas gave Tokyo a much bigger and more futuristic feel than we’d remembered.
When we finally arrived at our Airbnb, thankfully the host had provided detailed instructions on everything from entering the property to using the appliances. They’d even translated labels on the washing machine and bidet controls into English which felt like a lifesaver. We found the hidden key, dragged our bags up three flights of stairs and officially settled into our new temporary home.
Despite being exhausted, we still decided to venture out for a quick explore. We walked about ten minutes to Nakano-shimbashi Station and headed towards Shinjuku. Before leaving Australia I’d already loaded the Suica transit card app onto my iPhone which made catching trains incredibly easy. Unfortunately for Ted, the same app didn’t cooperate with his Samsung phone, meaning he had to rely on old-fashioned paper tickets instead.
Since we’d effectively been awake since before 5am Hawaiian time and also gained another five hours crossing into Japan, our evening adventure was never going to be especially wild. We grabbed dinner at a small local restaurant called Mangetsu where vegetarian options were somewhat limited — Japan still isn’t especially vegetarian-friendly compared to many other countries. What immediately stood out though was how affordable everything felt after coming from the United States. Ted and I had definitely become a little worn down by constantly spending huge amounts just to eat in Hawaii, so arriving in Japan where meals are cheaper, tipping isn’t expected and transport is efficient has been refreshing. The weather also felt noticeably less humid and oppressive than Honolulu.
One final place we wanted to explore before heading back was Golden Gai, which took us a while to actually locate amongst the maze-like streets of Shinjuku. Golden Gai is one of Tokyo’s most famous nightlife districts, made up of narrow alleyways packed with hundreds of tiny bars, many seating only a handful of people at a time. Originally developing in the post-war years, the area has become famous for preserving old Tokyo atmosphere amongst a city otherwise constantly rebuilding itself. Some bars cater to regular locals only, others welcome tourists, and nearly every doorway looks like it belongs in a movie set. Walking through the tiny lantern-lit laneways with overhead wiring, neon signs and impossibly small bars honestly felt like stepping into another world. One thing we also noticed was just how many Australians seemed to be wandering around the area too.
By the time it reached 7pm though, our bodies were still effectively operating on Hawaiian time, meaning it already felt like midnight to us. We were absolutely exhausted, so tonight became another early one. Fortunately we have tomorrow to properly start exploring TokyoRead more
Day 19
May 21 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Rainy Tokyo, Tiny Pigs and Takeshita Street ☔🐷🌃
Jet lag struck again today as I unfortunately woke up around 3am. Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t fall back asleep, so the early hours of the morning were fairly uneventful while I waited for Ted to wake up so we could actually start the day together. Thankfully he wasn’t too far behind, and before long we were making plans for another Tokyo adventure.
We decided heading into Shibuya would be a good idea as it’s relatively close to where we’re staying and there is plenty happening there at all hours. The weather, however, was pretty miserable all day with constant rain. We really couldn’t complain too much though considering this was the first genuinely bad weather we’d experienced for the entire trip so far.
The Tokyo train system initially felt confusing and overwhelming, particularly with the language barrier and the sheer number of different lines and stations. By the end of the day though, things were already making a lot more sense. Japan also operates very differently to Australia in the mornings, as surprisingly little is actually open early for breakfast or coffee outside convenience stores. One thing I’ve found interesting here is how cafes, restaurants and little businesses are scattered throughout ordinary suburban streets instead of all being grouped into obvious commercial precincts, similar to Houston, Texas.
When we arrived in Shibuya, finding breakfast still wasn’t especially easy. We nearly settled for Wendy’s until we realised they only served burgers even that early in the morning. Instead we ended up at Zetteria, which is a Japanese fast-food chain operated by the same company as Lotteria. It’s somewhat similar to McDonald’s but with a more Japanese twist, offering burgers, breakfast sets and decent coffee. It definitely did the job while we figured out our plans for the day.
Ted had noticed on Facebook that my good friend Susie and her sister Jenny were also in Tokyo, so we arranged to meet up with them later. One thing I’d really wanted to try while we were here was Mipig cafe. Japan has become famous for themed animal cafés featuring everything from cats and dogs to hedgehogs, rabbits, owls and even capybaras, but the miniature pig café seemed especially unique. Susie mentioned she’d love to try it too, so we locked that in for later.
Before then, Ted wanted to visit Ueno Park, so we jumped back on the metro. Unfortunately we discovered very quickly what Tokyo peak hour is actually like. When the train arrived it already looked impossibly full, yet somehow even more people continued squeezing themselves onboard. Ted managed to board before I did, and I thought there was absolutely no physical space left for me, but apparently Tokyo commuters have mastered spatial physics because somehow we both fitted in. It definitely wasn’t comfortable though. Nobody could move, and matters became even more awkward when the train suddenly stopped for several minutes without explanation. I suppose that’s simply part of daily life in Tokyo.
Despite the rain, Ueno Park was still beautiful to walk through. It’s one of Tokyo’s oldest and most famous public parks, home to museums, temples, shrines, ponds and huge tree-lined pathways. During cherry blossom season it becomes one of the busiest viewing spots in the entire city, although today it was mostly umbrellas and puddles. We still enjoyed wandering through the grounds in the pouring rain, even if we ended up absolutely drenched by the end of it.
Later we returned to Shibuya to see the famous Shibuya Crossing, often described as the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. Watching the traffic stop from every direction while huge crowds flood across the intersection at once really is one of those classic Tokyo moments that somehow looks even more impressive in person than in photos or videos.
From there we decided to walk about twenty minutes to the pig café, which unexpectedly became one of the highlights of the day because we discovered an entirely different side of Shibuya and Harajuku along the way. We passed concert venues, quieter residential streets and the impressive Yoyogi National Gymnasium, famous for its sweeping suspension roof design created for the 1964 Olympics.
When we arrived at the café, Susie and Jenny arrived almost simultaneously. The staff told us our session wouldn’t begin for another half hour, so we found a nearby PEANUTS Cafe instead. As owners of our little boy Snoopy back home, this immediately appealed to us. The café is themed entirely around the Peanuts characters, with Snoopy decorations, themed desserts, drinks and merchandise everywhere. I ended up ordering pancakes and coffee which both arrived decorated with Snoopy’s face. Only afterwards did I realise how expensive the pancakes actually were, but I regret nothing.
Eventually it was pig time. Inside the Mipig café we were led into a large room with several small tables where Ted and I sat at one table while Susie and Jenny sat nearby. Then suddenly it became absolute pig chaos. Staff members began placing tiny pigs onto everyone’s laps and within seconds they were all snuggling into blankets and climbing over people looking for warmth and attention. One pig I had was absolutely determined to burrow completely underneath my blanket instead of sitting on top of it. Ted, however, appeared to possess some kind of magical pig energy because they continuously flocked towards him. At one point he had about six pigs asleep across his lap simultaneously. Watching them interact with everyone was genuinely funny and surprisingly entertaining, although by the end of the 25-minute session we both agreed that was probably long enough.
To be honest though, we did leave with mixed feelings. Several of the pigs repeatedly made sucking motions with their mouths, one appeared to have foam around its mouth, and when one pig became aggressive, a staff member struck it above the snout which wasn’t especially pleasant to watch. It may all have perfectly reasonable explanations, but it still concerned me enough that I later sent an email just to ensure the animals are being treated appropriately.
Afterwards we said goodbye to the ladies while Ted and I wandered down Takeshita Street in Harajuku, which I absolutely loved. The narrow pedestrian street is famous for youth fashion, quirky shops, bright colours, dessert stalls and absolute sensory overload. Everywhere you looked there were teenagers dressed in elaborate outfits, tiny boutiques selling bizarre accessories, giant rainbow fairy floss and music blasting out from storefronts. It felt energetic, chaotic and completely unapologetically Tokyo.
After such a massive day, we headed back to the apartment to shower, change clothes — which definitely smelled slightly pig-related by then — and do a load of laundry. Later that evening we returned to the Shinjuku area for dinner since it’s much livelier than our quieter neighbourhood in Nakano.
Finding somewhere to eat took a while because we wanted something different, eventually settling on a fairly fancy Italian restaurant. I was slightly horrified though when I noticed bear meat listed on the menu. Considering the pig café experience earlier, today really had turned into something of an accidental animal-rights-themed day for me.
Back near our apartment later that night, we grabbed desserts from a convenience store, something I absolutely love doing in Japan. The packaged cakes, puddings and sweets here are genuinely excellent and somehow far better than convenience store desserts have any right to be. Even though I initially had doubts about staying in Nakano when we first arrived, we both really like the area now. It’s quiet, walkable, close to the metro and feels much more local and relaxed than the busier tourist districts.
Tomorrow Ted and I will temporarily part ways, with him heading to Hong Kong to visit a friend while I begin my journey home. Japan has never disappointed us whenever we’ve visited, and this trip is definitely proving no exception.Read more
Day 20
May 22 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
🇯🇵✈️ Day 20: Rainy Tokyo Farewells and the Long Way Home 🌧️🚄🛫
Last night was unfortunately another fairly ordinary sleep as a cough I’d picked up started giving me quite a bit of grief overnight. I’m not sure whether it’s from being crammed onto crowded Tokyo metros, constantly going between air conditioning and humidity, or just general travel exhaustion, but I’m grateful it has happened at the end of the holiday rather than the beginning.
Tokyo greeted us with more rain again today, although I still wasn’t too bothered by it. We’ve had excellent weather for virtually the entire trip, so we really couldn’t complain. Since the weather wasn’t ideal for wandering too far, we took our time packing up the apartment while figuring out what to do with our final morning in Japan.
Breakfast this morning was pretty uninspiring, consisting mainly of protein bars and protein drinks, so I checked Uber Eats to see if there were any nearby places worth walking to. The most convenient option turned out to be a nearby McDonald’s, although it was located in the opposite direction to where we normally walked towards the station.
As it turned out, this accidental detour became one of the nicest surprises of the day because we discovered an entirely different side of our neighbourhood. The further we walked, the more impressed we became. Even the McDonald’s itself felt noticeably better than many we’d seen recently in the United States.
Continuing further along, we stumbled across Shinjuku Chuo Park, a surprisingly peaceful green space surrounded by towering skyscrapers. Hidden amongst the trees was a beautiful little shrine where local office workers would quietly stop to pay their respects before continuing on to work. I didn’t photograph it out of respect, but there was something really calming about watching ordinary Tokyo life continue around such a traditional spiritual place. The contrast between the modern skyline and the quiet shrine tucked within the park felt very Japanese somehow.
Nearby we also saw the enormous Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, which absolutely dominates the skyline around western Shinjuku. Designed by famous architect Kenzo Tange, the twin-towered building houses the Tokyo Metropolitan Government offices and is one of the tallest buildings in the city. On clear days, its observation decks supposedly even offer views of Mount Fuji. Standing beneath it really gives you an appreciation for the sheer scale of Tokyo.
In the distance we could also see the incredibly distinctive Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower, the striking oval-shaped skyscraper in the photo with the crisscross lattice exterior. It’s actually an educational building housing several fashion, medical and design colleges, and its futuristic appearance makes it one of the most recognisable buildings in Shinjuku.
Eventually we returned to the apartment as our Uber transfer to Shinjuku Station was arriving shortly before 11am. Even though the station itself wasn’t far away, the idea of dragging suitcases through the rain, navigating slippery footpaths and squeezing onto a crowded metro didn’t sound especially appealing.
Just as we were about to leave, Ted suddenly panicked because he couldn’t find his phone. Our driver very kindly pulled over while I ran all the way back towards the apartment, only for Ted to discover moments later that the phone had been sitting in one of his pockets the entire time.
Once we arrived at Shinjuku Station, finding the Narita Express turned out to be easy thanks to a red line painted throughout the station which you simply follow to the platform. We arrived with plenty of time to spare, although one thing that unsettled us was the number of birds flying around inside the station. It felt like something out of an Alfred Hitchcock film, with birds swooping dangerously close to people’s heads while trying to find their way back outside.
The Narita Express itself was very comfortable, although not especially tranquil thanks to the endless overlapping station announcements echoing constantly throughout the platforms. Once onboard though, the ride was smooth and relaxing. What surprised us most was just how far Narita International Airport actually is from central Tokyo. You really appreciate how enormous this city is during that train journey.
This was also the point where Ted and I would temporarily go our separate ways. We both disembarked at Terminal 1, where Ted checked in for his flight with Hong Kong Express. Before saying goodbye, we had one final lunch together at a little spaghetti restaurant in the terminal which was actually really nice. Eventually though, Ted needed to head through security for his flight to Hong Kong.
After saying goodbye, I made my way to the airport shuttle buses between the terminals. Amazingly, a shuttle arrived almost immediately after I reached the stop, making the transfer incredibly easy. When I reached the Jetstar Airways check-in area however, staff advised I couldn’t check in until three hours before departure. Since I was extremely early, I went to the food court to pass some time.
Afterwards I returned to check in again, only to then be told that because I was staff travelling, I actually shouldn’t check in until around ninety minutes before departure instead. So it was back to the food court yet again. I also attempted to find something for my cough at a nearby pharmacy, although that proved challenging as virtually everything was entirely in Japanese with very little English anywhere.
Thankfully when I finally returned to the check-in counters later, the news was excellent: not only had I successfully cleared the standby list, but I’d also been allocated business class. That definitely improved my mood considerably.
Once through security, I still had a fair bit of time before boarding, so I decided to try one of the massage chairs near the departure gates. It sounded relaxing in theory, although by the time it finished my neck honestly felt worse than before. Lesson learned.
This flight marks the beginning of the long journey home. First I’ll fly to Cairns, before hopefully making my way back to Adelaide via Brisbane. It’s definitely not the most direct routing in the world, but that’s simply how staff travel works sometimes.
And with that, I draw this travel blog to a close for now. It’s been a really fantastic trip filled with great experiences, memorable places and some great people along the way. Despite only just finishing this adventure, Ted and I are already talking about where we might travel next year.
Thanks so much for following along on our journey.Read more
TravelerInteresting review on both the lounge and PR J service.