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A 17-day adventure by Sue Read more
  • Sue Davis

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  • Sue DavisTravelerCamino Portuguese

    Porteverde to Armentiera

    July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    First real feel of being really up in the mountains, definitely steeper and higher than previous days. I managed to miss the "easy to spot" beginning of the Variante Espiritual, so had to cut across country.
    Climbing through woodland and meandering around the Ria de Pontevedra there were beautiful views. Descended to the shore to find lunch at Parque de Seca. The tortilla bocadillo has so far done lunch and supper and there's a quarter left for tomorrow.
    The ascent from here was very steep in places, many rest and water intake stops needed. Looking back at the Ria de Ponteverde, confirmed that the climb was certainly getting higher. Lovely to find drinks provided for walkers at the roadside at
    Steep road eventually turned into forest track. Good to get occasional shade.
    Eventually descended vía a rocky and steep path into Armentiera. Interesting old monastery, home to a community of Cistercian nuns.
    Arrived at hostel at 18:20 and decided to rush through showering to get back to the Monastery to experience the Pilgrim Blessing followed by a quick sangria.    Read more

  • Sue DavisTravelerCamino Portuguese
    Leaving the hostel at Armenteira
    One of many beautiful waterfalls2Crossing the riverMuch of the walk followed the "Route of Water and Stone"Interesting stonework at Aldrea LubregaCápela de San Pedro de MouzosA stop in the rain, just before a steep inclineA bit soggy round the edgesEarring at Vilanova de Arousa

    Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

    July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Overcast when leaving, but nice to be cool. The first part of the walk was especially beautiful through shaded paths alongside tumbling streams over mossy stones, passing ancient, disused sawmills. Streams eventually joined a wider, slower river and then the rain set in. Just mizzle at first and then more persistent. Was nice not to be in the baking sun, but was still very warm.
    Much of the walk was through vineyards, sometimes interspersed with allotments. These still bordered the river.
    Amazing little chapel at Mouzos, built by one of the inhabitants to welcome pilgrims. He was at the chapel..
    Passed through several small villages and some woodland before eventually hitting the coast again. Double checked as passed a first bridge, but it was to the Illa das Arousa. Next one crossed the harbour at Vilanova de Arousa, stopping point for the day.

    Kind Hungarian girl swapped so I could have bottom Bunk. Nice hostel.

    Time for a wander in the afternoon, so ended up visiting a museum dedicated to Ramón de Valle-Inclan, a prolific Spanish writer. This is in his grandmother's house and has a walled garden that was the basis of many of his stories.

    No luck for the boat tomorrow so booked for 7:00 Sunday morning. A day's rest, just wandering, will be good.    Read more

  • Sue DavisTravelerCamino Portuguese
    Toasted croissant, that was a surprise!
    Beautiful background for an amphitheatreThe bridge nearly 2 km longFrom the island, Vilanova de ArousaInteresting mix of architectureVery garlicky prawnsJust in time for sunset

    Day in Vilanova de Arousa

    July 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As no boat available, today was planned as a rest day.. After a casual walk around the town to find breakfast. I must have asked for something incorrectly as I was served squashed and toasted croissant 😂. After a lazy breakfast and more exploring, I decided to visit the Illa de Arousa, so popped back to the hostel to reclaim my shoes. I'd misread a sign thinking it was only 1.9km to get to the island; it turned out that that was the length of the bridge! My rest day ended up as a pleasant, but longer than intended, 17km.
    It was to be a day of misunderstanding as I had been invited to join a young Danish couple for dinner, but they weren't at the restaurant I thought they had named. Ended up eating alone, nice dish of garlic prawns but very garlicky. We arrived back at the hostel around the same time and laughed about the error.    Read more

  • Sue DavisTravelerCamino Portuguese
    Boat certainly can moved Measured up to 30kph)
    Some of the crosses along the wayLa Translario. The Pilgrim boatInside the church of Santiago at PadrónBack towards the mountainsHooray, less than 20kmDinner

    The boat and onwards

    July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    My 7h00 boat trip was moved to 9h20, for which I was very grateful. The boat could hold 30, which would have been very snug, but we were only about 18. The captain (who's name was Santiago!) was very informative, but fuller commentary was given in Spanish, less in English. He explained about the harvesting of mussels from man-made platforms and we watched some mussel collectors at work. He also told us to keep an eye out for 12 stone crosses which were to show the way to Padrón, where the boat carrying the remains of Saint James is said to have been moored.
    On arrival at Pontecersus, a 2.5 km walk Led to Padrón. It was market day and heaving with people. The noise and bustle was quite overwhelming. Still, it provided a great chance to replenish my depleted fruit supply and added some delicious fruit bread and Galicia cheese.
    Visited the church for a stamp which allowed me to claim a Pedronia certificate. To a non-Catholic, the service seemed quite evangelical with guitar, instead of organ and more time seemed to be given to the singer than the padre.
    Confusión over getting the Pedronia delayed my next stage. Having been overwhelmed by the number of pilgrims in Padrón, the route was suddenly quiet, most must be staying in the town.
    After another 10km,stopped at the municipal albergue just outside
    O Faramello. New, clean hostel with several eating places nearby. I chose the one up the hill, purely so that I could wander down to my bed. Legs définitely tired today; total of 20 walking km plus another 28 by boat.    Read more

  • Sue DavisTravelerCamino Portuguese
    Up in time for sunrise
    Woodland walkGreat mural on a shelterGreat scarecrowsFirst glimpse of Santiago de CompostelaThe CathedralImpressive organ;one of twoSun going down again

    Nearly there

    July 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Started the day early thanks to Mr Snoreandwhistle and Mrs Flashlight; I have had better nights' sleep. Anyway, it gave me a good, if a little chilly start. First half of the 15km walk definitely more up than down.
    Some lovely small villages with narrow cobbled streets, wooded lanes and then the approach to the city. The walk through the suburbs is quite long, but into the old part and it's much more interesting. Many narrow streets dwarfed by the grand architecture of the cathedral and it's surrounds.
    Arrived in time for the Pilgrim Mass, so went out of curiosity, having had to make a mad dash to the left luggage office as backpacks weren't allowed in. Knee giving me gip so eventually found a seat at the back. Such a ornate cathedral and huge. The service concluded with the swinging of the botafumeiro, which was quite impressive.
    Next a visit to the Pilgrim Office to collect the compostela and then a light lunch.
    Somehow added another 7km finding accommodation; I'm staying in the Monastery overlooking much of the town and can just see the spires of the cathedral.
    Tomorrow should be a rest day. Finistère will have to wait for another camino.    Read more

  • Sue DavisTravelerCamino Portuguese
    Climb up to monastery
    Accommodation for 2 nightsMain stairwayCathedral from the museumAnne's stoneCloistersMonasteryLeaving view

    Final day

    July 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today has been one of wondering and wandering.
    I heard the news that a dear friend died in the early hours, just after reading about death, in an essay written by an ex (of over 50 years) boyfriend, who is a writer. My carried stone will be placed in her memory in Santiago. Edit: it's still in my pocket, not the right place.
    On a happier note, Helga, from near the beginning of my Camino arrived this morning. A happy réunion with a drink and brunch, then she left in search of accommodation. I spent a couple of hours in the Pilgrim museum before my knee complained too much. Back to the hostel via a purchase of ibuprofen.
    Met up with Helga after she had been to the evening Pilgrim Mass and bumped into a group of youngsters she had met previously. All bar one German, the other Polish. A fun evening of chatter and laughter, the perfect way to end the Camino. Left them all around 23h30 to make sure that I didn't get locked out. As it was, everyone in my dorm was asleep when I got back.    Read more

  • Sue DavisTravelerCamino Portuguese

    Heading home

    July 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Leaving the hostel and walking off to the bus station, I wondered how long it would be before I reached Santiago de Compostela again. The journey home was long, but a good way to make sure my weakened knee was rested. Flixbus bus from Santiago to Bordeaux (11:35 - 01:50), I'd reserved the front seat to enjoy the views as we drove along the northern shores of Spain and then the west of France. I was surprised when we headed up to A Coruna first, a place that is on the Camino Inglés. From Bordeaux another bus took me to Rennes (2:50 - 9:40) where I was met by Richard. A quick coffee and then drove home, arriving roughly 24 hours after I'd left Santiago de Compostela. I wonder when I'll be back? Mmm, plans already turning in my mind.........Read more

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