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Camino Portuguese
  • Sue Davis
  • Sue Davis

Camino Portuguese

A 17-day adventure by Sue Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 4, 2023
  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Sé do Porto
    Intriguing lanesCan just see the sea.Looking back to Porto in the far distance.Fabulous weatherNearly at the coast.Statue remembering storm in 1947. 152 fishermen died when four trawlers were wrecked.2Dinner for one. Sadly I had to decline dessert 😊

    Walking to Matosinhos

    July 4, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The day started by leaving the lovely Albergue de Peregrinos de Senhora de Hora and taking the Metro back to Porto. I'd been there the previous evening, but to late to get a stamp from the cathedral, so back I went. For those who don't know, old Porto is a maze of narrow, very steep roads/passages, certainly not the best start with a dodgy knee. It does have it's own magic with lanes that are too narrow for cars.
    So eventually arrived by the river and the easy directions were to foolw the river, keeping it on my left, then at the estuary, follow the coast. After Porto only a few slight inclines, so not a particularly hard day, apart from I hadn't really put in many practise walks this time.
    Arriving at Matoshinos, no places at reasonably priced pilgrim hostels, so off to tourist office. Lovely lady phoned and booked me a room at the Seaman's Mission. Own room and bathroom, luxury. Did all nessary washing and then temperature dropped so may end up drying t-shirts from rucksack tomorrow.
    Total distance today 19km (didn't set Find Penguin until a fair bit out of old Porto).    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Well at least I'm heading in the right direction.Beginning of the boardwalkOne of many beautiful spots.Oil refinery in spooky lightSea thistleLooking back9.8 km to Vila do Condé and a mere 247 to Santiago de CompostelaLooking back again, oil refinery just visible3Looking forward from same spot.

    Walking on to Vila do Condé

    July 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Set off at 7:30, just because I was awake. Very quiet on the beaches but many active people running and exercising along the sea front. Different types of exercise equipment every few hundred metres.
    Leaving Matoshinos I passed the oil refinery, but with the sun behind it, even that had it's own beauty.
    Today was a day of boardwalks; mostly OK, but some broken and others suspect. Many interesting saline loving plants. The boardwalks aren't just to make the walking easier, but also to protect a fragile habitat. Made the mistake of walking on the beach when the boardwalk became covered in sand. The hard sand and cold water were welcome, but the climb back up through the soft sand was a killer, one knee definitely protesting. Arrived in Vila do Condé and managed to book a bed in the youth hostel. Beautiful building, apparently used to be a school.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Intriguing church with lookout station overlooking the sea at Povoa de Varzim
    Sea mist starting to clearNewly repaired boardwalkThe boardwalk goes on and on and not another pilgrim in site.

    Vila do Condé to Fao

    July 6, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Left around 8:30 this morning, opting for included breakfast rather than an early start.
    Very little to see for a couple of hours as a sea mist was in and I could just make out the final breakers as they hit the beach. Not such pleasant walking conditions as hot and humid. Eventually the sun broke through and back to just hot. A huge proportion of the walk on boardwalks again with a walk along the edge of a forest just before entering Fao.
    After so many warning about pilgrim numbers, I haven't met up, or seen, that many. They must be about though as it is not always easy to get a bed. Tonight's is in a beautiful private albergue and, as I write, I have a four bed room to myself. Just as well as my achy legs are being propped up by the only chair in the room.
    Too tired to go out and eat, apart from buying a fresh roll, fresh fruit and an avocado with camembert crème (definitely more on the crème than the camembert side). Not so many pictures today, mainly thanks to sea mist. Will have a quick look at the map for plans tomorrow.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Crossing the river outside Fao

    Fao to Anha

    July 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    As youth hostel had been full was sent to The Old Spot in Fao. Very modern, clean albergue. There were four people staying and we're were put into individual rooms, so good sleep apart from painful knee.
    Although on the Coastal route, it didn't go along the coast itself today, but it was a nice change to go through some small villages and woodland. Lovely donivito resting place with wide selection of food and drink on leaving the woods. Perfect timing for tired legs.
    Finally met more pilgrims today. People from The Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Brazil (lovely lady let me borrow her Tens machine for my knee),.Italy, Canada and the US. I had been beginning to think there were no other people walking. Staying at Casa Carolina in Anho. Lovely hostel, great ambience (just had a lovely music session) and great vegetable garden.
    Preparing for some rain tomorrow    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler

    Anha to Carreca

    July 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Left the lovely atmosphere of Casa Carolina in Anha with Helga, from Germany and Monique from Poland. We'd had a lovely evening singing with the few others. After crossing the Eiffel Bridge over the River Limio we had coffee together and then said a sad goodbye to Monique, who was to walk right along the coast, whilst Helga and I continued, slightly inland, on the Coastal Camino. A few ups and downs, some beautiful walled lanes but never able to get a clear picture of the cathedral. Several breaks as hot and humid today. Headed for the hostel in Carreca to find it already full! Lovely hostel owner said not to worry, his friend could offer a few beds in her home just up the road. Perfect. Helga and I had a three bed room and then we're unexpectedly joined by Monique. Lazy (needed) evening. Walked back to hostel (brilliant place, built in 1500s) ordered pizza and shared wine. We thought it was a much deserved treat.Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Praia de Carréça Time for a paddle whilst waiting for breakfast
    With Monique and HelgaCapelo Santo IsidoroCaminha

    Carréça to Caminha

    July 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Left the hostel just after 8am and walked back down to the beach to a beautiful cove. A quick paddle in the surf whilst waiting for the cafe to open. Fortified with café con leche and pasteis de nata, Helga, Monique and I set off for our destination, at that time undecided.
    We walked along the littoral path, sometimes passing through taller vegetation, other times along boardwalks over the dune vegetation. Another very hot day walking, decided to aim for Caminha. Parted company with Monique at Moledo.
    Went to the Albergue de Peregrinos de Caminha and were relieved to find that we had the last two beds going. Not only that, we were put in a suite usually reserved for hostel workers.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Spain across the river
    Minho River PathMinho River PathNear Vila Nova de CerveiraFrom the River PathGarden at Alvorada Medieval albergueChurch of Sao PedroChurch of Sao PedroSalad entréeDelicious supper

    Caminha to Sao Pedro da Torre

    July 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Day 7 starts with us being chivvied out of the hostel. Having woken twice, probably due to achy joints, I then overslept.
    The hostel manager had told us about the Minho river path that avoided having to walk along the road. At the junction, we met 9 if I want to walk the Varient Espiritual, which has been described as even more beautiful than the path so far.Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Yay, under 100km to go (if you don't walk the Variante Espiritual!)
    Breakfast stopRedondel a in the distanceHooray, water!Not much choice about direction

    O Porrino to Pondeverde

    July 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Well, pushing that many kilometers may not have been a good idea with a broken blister, ouch.
    I was so tired (and my knee and blister were really troubling me) that I did not write up this day until after my Camino ended, hence a lack of information, sorry. I knew that I wanted to be in Ponteverde for the evening to make sure that I had enough time to fit in the Variante Espiritual, starting the following day. What I hadn't banked on was walking my farthest ever, 40km. I stopped in the afternoon to book ahead as I knew that I needed to be sure of a bed.
    Before that, I met a lovely German lady and we walked together, chatting for about half an hour, my first conversation for hours. I decided to walk on at the next rest point as I had a lot further to go.
    Passing through Rendondela I then had a very steep climbs which eventually ended in a forest. Was very grateful to find a drinking fountain part way up to replenish my water supply.
    Nearing Ponteverde, I met a young Spanish pilgrim who had passed me earlier. We chatted as we walked on at quite a pace. On entering Ponteverde we went our own way, I still had a distance to walk as I had chosen a hostel on the it had been over 13 hours since I left the hostel that morning. I'd had better days 😉    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler

    Porteverde to Armentiera

    July 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    First real feel of being really up in the mountains, definitely steeper and higher than previous days. I managed to miss the "easy to spot" beginning of the Variante Espiritual, so had to cut across country.
    Climbing through woodland and meandering around the Ria de Pontevedra there were beautiful views. Descended to the shore to find lunch at Parque de Seca. The tortilla bocadillo has so far done lunch and supper and there's a quarter left for tomorrow.
    The ascent from here was very steep in places, many rest and water intake stops needed. Looking back at the Ria de Ponteverde, confirmed that the climb was certainly getting higher. Lovely to find drinks provided for walkers at the roadside at
    Steep road eventually turned into forest track. Good to get occasional shade.
    Eventually descended vía a rocky and steep path into Armentiera. Interesting old monastery, home to a community of Cistercian nuns.
    Arrived at hostel at 18:20 and decided to rush through showering to get back to the Monastery to experience the Pilgrim Blessing followed by a quick sangria.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Leaving the hostel at Armenteira
    One of many beautiful waterfalls2Crossing the riverMuch of the walk followed the "Route of Water and Stone"Interesting stonework at Aldrea LubregaCápela de San Pedro de MouzosA stop in the rain, just before a steep inclineA bit soggy round the edgesEarring at Vilanova de Arousa

    Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa

    July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Overcast when leaving, but nice to be cool. The first part of the walk was especially beautiful through shaded paths alongside tumbling streams over mossy stones, passing ancient, disused sawmills. Streams eventually joined a wider, slower river and then the rain set in. Just mizzle at first and then more persistent. Was nice not to be in the baking sun, but was still very warm.
    Much of the walk was through vineyards, sometimes interspersed with allotments. These still bordered the river.
    Amazing little chapel at Mouzos, built by one of the inhabitants to welcome pilgrims. He was at the chapel..
    Passed through several small villages and some woodland before eventually hitting the coast again. Double checked as passed a first bridge, but it was to the Illa das Arousa. Next one crossed the harbour at Vilanova de Arousa, stopping point for the day.

    Kind Hungarian girl swapped so I could have bottom Bunk. Nice hostel.

    Time for a wander in the afternoon, so ended up visiting a museum dedicated to Ramón de Valle-Inclan, a prolific Spanish writer. This is in his grandmother's house and has a walled garden that was the basis of many of his stories.

    No luck for the boat tomorrow so booked for 7:00 Sunday morning. A day's rest, just wandering, will be good.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Toasted croissant, that was a surprise!
    Beautiful background for an amphitheatreThe bridge nearly 2 km longFrom the island, Vilanova de ArousaInteresting mix of architectureVery garlicky prawnsJust in time for sunset

    Day in Vilanova de Arousa

    July 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    As no boat available, today was planned as a rest day.. After a casual walk around the town to find breakfast. I must have asked for something incorrectly as I was served squashed and toasted croissant 😂. After a lazy breakfast and more exploring, I decided to visit the Illa de Arousa, so popped back to the hostel to reclaim my shoes. I'd misread a sign thinking it was only 1.9km to get to the island; it turned out that that was the length of the bridge! My rest day ended up as a pleasant, but longer than intended, 17km.
    It was to be a day of misunderstanding as I had been invited to join a young Danish couple for dinner, but they weren't at the restaurant I thought they had named. Ended up eating alone, nice dish of garlic prawns but very garlicky. We arrived back at the hostel around the same time and laughed about the error.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Boat certainly can moved Measured up to 30kph)
    Some of the crosses along the wayLa Translario. The Pilgrim boatInside the church of Santiago at PadrónBack towards the mountainsHooray, less than 20kmDinner

    The boat and onwards

    July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    My 7h00 boat trip was moved to 9h20, for which I was very grateful. The boat could hold 30, which would have been very snug, but we were only about 18. The captain (who's name was Santiago!) was very informative, but fuller commentary was given in Spanish, less in English. He explained about the harvesting of mussels from man-made platforms and we watched some mussel collectors at work. He also told us to keep an eye out for 12 stone crosses which were to show the way to Padrón, where the boat carrying the remains of Saint James is said to have been moored.
    On arrival at Pontecersus, a 2.5 km walk Led to Padrón. It was market day and heaving with people. The noise and bustle was quite overwhelming. Still, it provided a great chance to replenish my depleted fruit supply and added some delicious fruit bread and Galicia cheese.
    Visited the church for a stamp which allowed me to claim a Pedronia certificate. To a non-Catholic, the service seemed quite evangelical with guitar, instead of organ and more time seemed to be given to the singer than the padre.
    Confusión over getting the Pedronia delayed my next stage. Having been overwhelmed by the number of pilgrims in Padrón, the route was suddenly quiet, most must be staying in the town.
    After another 10km,stopped at the municipal albergue just outside
    O Faramello. New, clean hostel with several eating places nearby. I chose the one up the hill, purely so that I could wander down to my bed. Legs définitely tired today; total of 20 walking km plus another 28 by boat.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Up in time for sunrise
    Woodland walkGreat mural on a shelterGreat scarecrowsFirst glimpse of Santiago de CompostelaThe CathedralImpressive organ;one of twoSun going down again

    Nearly there

    July 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Started the day early thanks to Mr Snoreandwhistle and Mrs Flashlight; I have had better nights' sleep. Anyway, it gave me a good, if a little chilly start. First half of the 15km walk definitely more up than down.
    Some lovely small villages with narrow cobbled streets, wooded lanes and then the approach to the city. The walk through the suburbs is quite long, but into the old part and it's much more interesting. Many narrow streets dwarfed by the grand architecture of the cathedral and it's surrounds.
    Arrived in time for the Pilgrim Mass, so went out of curiosity, having had to make a mad dash to the left luggage office as backpacks weren't allowed in. Knee giving me gip so eventually found a seat at the back. Such a ornate cathedral and huge. The service concluded with the swinging of the botafumeiro, which was quite impressive.
    Next a visit to the Pilgrim Office to collect the compostela and then a light lunch.
    Somehow added another 7km finding accommodation; I'm staying in the Monastery overlooking much of the town and can just see the spires of the cathedral.
    Tomorrow should be a rest day. Finistère will have to wait for another camino.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler
    Climb up to monastery
    Accommodation for 2 nightsMain stairwayCathedral from the museumAnne's stoneCloistersMonasteryLeaving view

    Final day

    July 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today has been one of wondering and wandering.
    I heard the news that a dear friend died in the early hours, just after reading about death, in an essay written by an ex (of over 50 years) boyfriend, who is a writer. My carried stone will be placed in her memory in Santiago. Edit: it's still in my pocket, not the right place.
    On a happier note, Helga, from near the beginning of my Camino arrived this morning. A happy réunion with a drink and brunch, then she left in search of accommodation. I spent a couple of hours in the Pilgrim museum before my knee complained too much. Back to the hostel via a purchase of ibuprofen.
    Met up with Helga after she had been to the evening Pilgrim Mass and bumped into a group of youngsters she had met previously. All bar one German, the other Polish. A fun evening of chatter and laughter, the perfect way to end the Camino. Left them all around 23h30 to make sure that I didn't get locked out. As it was, everyone in my dorm was asleep when I got back.    Read more

  • Sue DavisCamino PortugueseTraveler

    Heading home

    July 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Leaving the hostel and walking off to the bus station, I wondered how long it would be before I reached Santiago de Compostela again. The journey home was long, but a good way to make sure my weakened knee was rested. Flixbus bus from Santiago to Bordeaux (11:35 - 01:50), I'd reserved the front seat to enjoy the views as we drove along the northern shores of Spain and then the west of France. I was surprised when we headed up to A Coruna first, a place that is on the Camino Inglés. From Bordeaux another bus took me to Rennes (2:50 - 9:40) where I was met by Richard. A quick coffee and then drove home, arriving roughly 24 hours after I'd left Santiago de Compostela. I wonder when I'll be back? Mmm, plans already turning in my mind.........Read more

    Trip end
    July 20, 2023
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