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A 17-day adventure by Sue Read more
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  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    2
    Day 1

    Walking to Matosinhos

    July 4, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The day started by leaving the lovely Albergue de Peregrinos de Senhora de Hora and taking the Metro back to Porto. I'd been there the previous evening, but to late to get a stamp from the cathedral, so back I went. For those who don't know, old Porto is a maze of narrow, very steep roads/passages, certainly not the best start with a dodgy knee. It does have it's own magic with lanes that are too narrow for cars.
    So eventually arrived by the river and the easy directions were to foolw the river, keeping it on my left, then at the estuary, follow the coast. After Porto only a few slight inclines, so not a particularly hard day, apart from I hadn't really put in many practise walks this time.
    Arriving at Matoshinos, no places at reasonably priced pilgrim hostels, so off to tourist office. Lovely lady phoned and booked me a room at the Seaman's Mission. Own room and bathroom, luxury. Did all nessary washing and then temperature dropped so may end up drying t-shirts from rucksack tomorrow.
    Total distance today 19km (didn't set Find Penguin until a fair bit out of old Porto).    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    3
    Day 2

    Walking on to Vila do Condé

    July 5, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Set off at 7:30, just because I was awake. Very quiet on the beaches but many active people running and exercising along the sea front. Different types of exercise equipment every few hundred metres.
    Leaving Matoshinos I passed the oil refinery, but with the sun behind it, even that had it's own beauty.
    Today was a day of boardwalks; mostly OK, but some broken and others suspect. Many interesting saline loving plants. The boardwalks aren't just to make the walking easier, but also to protect a fragile habitat. Made the mistake of walking on the beach when the boardwalk became covered in sand. The hard sand and cold water were welcome, but the climb back up through the soft sand was a killer, one knee definitely protesting. Arrived in Vila do Condé and managed to book a bed in the youth hostel. Beautiful building, apparently used to be a school.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 3

    Vila do Condé to Fao

    July 6, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Left around 8:30 this morning, opting for included breakfast rather than an early start.
    Very little to see for a couple of hours as a sea mist was in and I could just make out the final breakers as they hit the beach. Not such pleasant walking conditions as hot and humid. Eventually the sun broke through and back to just hot. A huge proportion of the walk on boardwalks again with a walk along the edge of a forest just before entering Fao.
    After so many warning about pilgrim numbers, I haven't met up, or seen, that many. They must be about though as it is not always easy to get a bed. Tonight's is in a beautiful private albergue and, as I write, I have a four bed room to myself. Just as well as my achy legs are being propped up by the only chair in the room.
    Too tired to go out and eat, apart from buying a fresh roll, fresh fruit and an avocado with camembert crème (definitely more on the crème than the camembert side). Not so many pictures today, mainly thanks to sea mist. Will have a quick look at the map for plans tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 4

    Fao to Anha

    July 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    As youth hostel had been full was sent to The Old Spot in Fao. Very modern, clean albergue. There were four people staying and we're were put into individual rooms, so good sleep apart from painful knee.
    Although on the Coastal route, it didn't go along the coast itself today, but it was a nice change to go through some small villages and woodland. Lovely donivito resting place with wide selection of food and drink on leaving the woods. Perfect timing for tired legs.
    Finally met more pilgrims today. People from The Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Brazil (lovely lady let me borrow her Tens machine for my knee),.Italy, Canada and the US. I had been beginning to think there were no other people walking. Staying at Casa Carolina in Anho. Lovely hostel, great ambience (just had a lovely music session) and great vegetable garden.
    Preparing for some rain tomorrow    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 5

    Anha to Carreca

    July 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Left the lovely atmosphere of Casa Carolina in Anha with Helga, from Germany and Monique from Poland. We'd had a lovely evening singing with the few others. After crossing the Eiffel Bridge over the River Limio we had coffee together and then said a sad goodbye to Monique, who was to walk right along the coast, whilst Helga and I continued, slightly inland, on the Coastal Camino. A few ups and downs, some beautiful walled lanes but never able to get a clear picture of the cathedral. Several breaks as hot and humid today. Headed for the hostel in Carreca to find it already full! Lovely hostel owner said not to worry, his friend could offer a few beds in her home just up the road. Perfect. Helga and I had a three bed room and then we're unexpectedly joined by Monique. Lazy (needed) evening. Walked back to hostel (brilliant place, built in 1500s) ordered pizza and shared wine. We thought it was a much deserved treat.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 6

    Carréça to Caminha

    July 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Left the hostel just after 8am and walked back down to the beach to a beautiful cove. A quick paddle in the surf whilst waiting for the cafe to open. Fortified with café con leche and pasteis de nata, Helga, Monique and I set off for our destination, at that time undecided.
    We walked along the littoral path, sometimes passing through taller vegetation, other times along boardwalks over the dune vegetation. Another very hot day walking, decided to aim for Caminha. Parted company with Monique at Moledo.
    Went to the Albergue de Peregrinos de Caminha and were relieved to find that we had the last two beds going. Not only that, we were put in a suite usually reserved for hostel workers.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 7

    Caminha to Sao Pedro da Torre

    July 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Day 7 starts with us being chivvied out of the hostel. Having woken twice, probably due to achy joints, I then overslept.
    The hostel manager had told us about the Minho river path that avoided having to walk along the road. At the junction, we met 9 if I want to walk the Varient Espiritual, which has been described as even more beautiful than the path so far.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 8

    Sao Pedro da Torres to O Porrino

    July 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Breakfast started at 7.30am but my plan to leave early went adrift again as we all sat chatting and then I joined in singing with Helga whilst she also skillfully played piano.

  • TravelerCamino Portuguese
    Day 9

    O Porrino to Pondeverde

    July 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Well, pushing that many kilometers may not have been a good idea with a broken blister, ouch.
    I was so tired (and my knee and blister were really troubling me) that I did not write up this day until after my Camino ended, hence a lack of information, sorry. I knew that I wanted to be in Ponteverde for the evening to make sure that I had enough time to fit in the Variante Espiritual, starting the following day. What I hadn't banked on was walking my farthest ever, 40km. I stopped in the afternoon to book ahead as I knew that I needed to be sure of a bed.
    Before that, I met a lovely German lady and we walked together, chatting for about half an hour, my first conversation for hours. I decided to walk on at the next rest point as I had a lot further to go.
    Passing through Rendondela I then had a very steep climbs which eventually ended in a forest. Was very grateful to find a drinking fountain part way up to replenish my water supply.
    Nearing Ponteverde, I met a young Spanish pilgrim who had passed me earlier. We chatted as we walked on at quite a pace. On entering Ponteverde we went our own way, I still had a distance to walk as I had chosen a hostel on the it had been over 13 hours since I left the hostel that morning. I'd had better days 😉    Read more

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