Heritage Tour

Bike tour visiting European roots. Read more

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Day 51
Monday, July 29, 2019 at 7:53 PM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 377 ft
Germany Halberstadt 51.89805, 11.0445651°53’53” N 11°2’40” E
Routine Day Riding Around
July 29, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
We didn't get as far as expected today. We rode against a stiff wind out of the west and there was not a straight path for us to follow. We zigzagged all day long through farmland, towns and villages We are definitely on our own now as we've left the cycling tourists on the Elbe.

We are in what used to be East Germany. Locals talk of the East and the West as if there is still a division. Tomorrow we plan to ride to Goslar, in the West. Goslar is a 1.000 year old mining town on the north side of the Harz Mountains that has World Heritage status. We may take a day off there.

Today, for the first time, we are seeing half-timbered buildings and they are now common. Photo 1 is our hotel for the night. Scored again! Photo 2 is a Soviet WWII memorial. Photo 3 is a race track that we came across.Read more
Linda BeirneThanks again for taking us along on this incredible journey! I keep forgetting to ask, where is your final stop planned?
7/29/19Reply
TravelerWe probably will go to Hamburg then up the Jutland Peninsula, crossing by ferry to Norway and Sweden, but not positive yet.
7/29/19Reply
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Day 52
Tuesday, July 30, 2019 at 8:12 PM
⛅ 27 °C
Altitude: 453 ft
Germany Vienenburg 51.95339, 10.5640151°57’12” N 10°33’50” E
Crossing The Iron Curtain
July 30, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
We crossed over to the West this morning. We knew approximately where the border was but we pinned it down by the change in lampposts. Photo 1. Stalin built the Iron Curtain to isolate the Soviet Bloc countries from the West. Winston Churchill used the term in a speach he gave in 1946 at Westminster College in Missouri, where Susan and I have visited.

Photo 2: Halberstadt Cathedral holds the first pipe organ to be installed in a cathedral, year 1205. Photo 3 is of the Harz Mountains. Photo 4 was taken in Goslar, a World Heritage site because of the timber- framed structures in the Old Town area.Read more
Kim SchwabI was at the wall in 1965ish. So sad! I have a piece of CheckPoint Charlie.
7/30/19Reply
TravelerWe crossed into East Berlin in '83 on a tour bus. It was like going back in time.
7/31/19Reply
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Day 53
Wednesday, July 31, 2019 at 8:24 PM
🌧 17 °C
Altitude: 230 ft
Germany Oebisfelde 52.43088, 10.9841552°25’51” N 10°59’3” E
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Iron Curtain Trail Gets Two Thumbs Up
July 31, 2019 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
Were on the Iron Curtain Trail (aka EuroVelo 13) and is has nicest riding we've had in Germany yet. Pretty landscape, varied topography, a mix of riding surfaces and no people. It was wonderful, except I forgot to load the route in my Garmin and this is one route where I could use turn-by-turn guidance.

The route is under development but when completed it will run the entire length of the Iron Curtain. We did a segment in the Czech Republic and liked that too. Too bad I didn't know more about it before we left.

Look closely at Photo 4. It shows the side and back yards of a home built on the outskirt of a village since the wall came down. The photo shows one of the monuments marking the border between East and West. Look closer - there is a guard tower visible under the roof of the carport. Photo 2 doesn't show the actual fench, which was double-rowed, tall, with barbed wire. The fences were mined. Dogs and guard stations were in the middle.Read more
Linda BeirneAnother great history lesson 👍. Thanks!!!
7/31/19Reply
Traveler This is what I picture when I think of East Germany during the Cold War.
7/31/19Reply
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Day 54
Thursday, August 1, 2019 at 8:20 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 62 ft
Germany Landgraben 53.10063, 11.0993553°6’2” N 11°5’58” E
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Approaching Hamburg
August 1, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
A nice day of riding but not much to talk about because we had to take time out out to handle the business side of our lives. However, the schnitzel lunch gets special mention.

Tomorrow morning we'll be back on the Elbe trail going into Hamburg. At that point, we will have crossed the European continent. FYI, riding mileage so far is 2836.

The lead photo was taken at last night's pension. The wall used to be the back fence, with guard tower to boot.. The second photo was taken on the trail. Tanks and troop trucks - watch your speed!Read more
Kim Schwab Happy bikers!
8/1/19Reply
Linda BeirneLooking good you two 😍 Have fun tomorrow!
8/1/19Reply
TravelerYou look amazingly fit and trim!
8/1/19Reply
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Day 55
Friday, August 2, 2019 at 6:30 PM
🌧 19 °C
Altitude: 43 ft
Germany Elbe-Lübeck-Kanal 53.37065, 10.5579653°22’14” N 10°33’29” E
1 1
On The Elbe Just Outside Of Hamburg
August 2, 2019 in Germany ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
We got a late start this morning due to heavy rain. Now we're back on the Elbe almost to Hamburg. This afternoon we went through Hamburg's outlying villages. Upscale country properties, lots of horses.

We're staying in a riverfront tourist town that appears to cater to people looking for a getaway from Hamburg. Very old and very cute. Photos 1 and 6.Read more
Graciela WomackHi Susan and Roger - I've been following your absolutely amazing heritage tour. Gorgeous scenery and little beautiful towns, wow. Susan, how is your knee doing? I can't wait to get all of your stories in person when you return. We will do lunch.
8/2/19Reply
Kim Schwab The trail looks wonderful through the forest.
8/2/19Reply
TravelerIt's country western night in the bar tonight. These Germans have their heads on straight "Like a rhinestone cowboy ...
8/2/19Reply
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Day 56
Saturday, August 3, 2019 at 9:51 PM
🌙 18 °C
Altitude: 30 ft
Germany Wittenbergen 53.56375, 9.7673353°33’50” N 9°46’2” E
We Made It Across Europe
August 3, 2019 in Germany ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
We followed the levee into Hamburg this morning making our way to the BallinStadr Emigrant Museum. Millions of people poured out of Europe through the museum's buildings and boarded vessels on the waterfront for America, including three of my grandparents.

The city of Hamburg was a surprise. It's busy, modern and has energy you can feel. Heading out of town we went through an area of homes, mansions, parks and at least one embassy that is as nice as anyplace that we've been. Hamburg is worth coming back to.

Not too far downstream we found a campground. We've spoiled ourselves with the hotels and pensions, but the campground is ok and we are on the river. Tomorrow we turn north to Denmark.Read more
Kim SchwabI bet my great grandparents, from the Vogel area, came the same way.
8/4/19Reply
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Day 57
Sunday, August 4, 2019 at 6:09 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 49 ft
Germany Elmshorn 53.75686, 9.6470753°45’25” N 9°38’49” E
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A Day On The Farm
August 4, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
A short day today; it's a day to rest and eat. We kept the miles down and only went 30 through flat, open farmland. There isn't a hill in sight. The roads are quiet and the villages are pretty. Thatched roofs are common in this area. It's serene country.

Photo 2 is a new home with copper flashing and thatched roof. Photo 4 is of a newborn calf still wet from birth and wobbly on its legs.Read more
Kim Schwab I could live in that house.
8/4/19Reply
TravelerBeautiful! That almost looks like ice on the water. Slime? I’m heading this weekend to the Baltic countries with OAT for two weeks. Happy cycling.
8/6/19Reply
TravelerIt was low tide so that is the channel bottom.
8/6/19Reply
TravelerThe obvious now that I looked at a larger picture. You folks are making the miles now that it’s flat and hopefully cooler. Heading to the Baltic on Sunday for two weeks.
8/10/19Reply
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Day 58
Monday, August 5, 2019 at 7:42 PM
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 23 ft
Germany Linnbek 54.28911, 9.6628654°17’21” N 9°39’46” E
EuroVelo 3 Is A Sweet Route
August 5, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Since Hamburg we've been following EuroVelo 3 which runs fromTrondheim Fjord in Norway to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. From what we've seen of the section in Northern Germany, this is one nice bike route. It winds in and out of villages, sticks to backcountry roads and the riding is easy.

Everyday we see something interesting. Today we saw a robot lawn mower. It runs around the lawn and somehow manages to stay on the property. Photo 1. Other sightings: nice homes, a grandmother out with her grandchild and dog, and a pedestrian/bike tunnel under the Kiel Canal/River Eider in Rendsburg. The Kiel Canal links the Baltic and North Seas. Photos 2-5. The prices are going up but the hotels are nice and the food is good. Photo 6.Read more
Kim SchwabLooks like cool weather. Nice country trail.
8/5/19Reply
David MagawRegarding the robot mower, there is a perimeter wire that it senses to keep it confined. They are becoming very common. I have one for my place in Italy. What a great ride you guys have done, and continue to do!!!
8/7/19Reply
TravelerNice photos. The lawn mower looking interesting. I wonder if it composts all the clippings and does not use a bag. Rode by your home a few days ago and all looks good.
8/9/19Reply
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Day 59
Tuesday, August 6, 2019 at 8:02 PM
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 75 ft
Denmark Årup Skov 55.02507, 9.4147955°1’30” N 9°24’53” E
Hello Denmark, Goodbye Germany
August 6, 2019 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
We passed through the German city of Flensburg, and into Denmark. No too long ago Flensburg must have been something to see. We went past old homes that could stand shoulder to shoulder with anything in Pacific Heights. Unfortunately, the city is haunted. It was the seat the Nazis goverment after Berlin fell on May 1, 1945, until surrender on May 23rd.

In Denmark we came across a WWII prison camp for Danish resistance fighters and subversives. It's been preserved as a museum.

Our last stop in the Danish city of Aabenraa., where we got out first view of the Baltic. Costs have soared so we are in a campground, but it's a nice one.Read more
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Day 60
Wednesday, August 7, 2019 at 8:04 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 243 ft
Denmark Bække 55.56767, 9.1371855°34’4” N 9°8’14” E
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Denmark So Far
August 7, 2019 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
This is our first time in Denmark. If you had asked me what Denmark is famous for, I would have said: Lego, Neils Bohr, a hippy commune in Copenhagen, pastries and Nicholas Copernicus. But I would have been wrong: the danish was created by Viennese bakers and Copernicus was a Pole.

Our first impressions are the countryside is pretty and litter free, properties are well maintained, and the people are nice with a PC mindset. The villages are gone, instead we have towns spread apart and suburban tract housing. The pensions have been replaced by B&B's and hotels and they are expensive. Seriously, except for the weather, we could be in California.

Nonetheless, Demark is a beautiful country and a great place to ride a bike.

Photos: 1) the Baltic; 2) old inscribed rock that is a national treasure; 3) stone bridge circa 900 AD; 4) outrunning the weather: 5) topiary.Read more
Kim Schwab Serpentine?
8/7/19Reply
TravelerThe rock is inscribed but the meaning is lost to time. The Germans took it to Berlin but the Danes got it back. It's gneiss.
8/8/19Reply
Dave AbbottYes, it’s very nice!😜
8/8/19Reply
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Day 61
Thursday, August 8, 2019 at 6:33 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 174 ft
Denmark Bryrup 56.02283, 9.5089956°1’22” N 9°30’32” E
The Oxen Trail
August 8, 2019 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
In Denmark EuroVelo 3 follows a 4,000 year old trade route named the Haervejen, or Oxen Trail. It's a great route: very well marked, marvelous scenery, and good riding surfaces. Signage along the way explains the natural history and the archeology of the area. Both trekkers and cyclist use the route and along the way there are camping areas with covered shelters.

This has been the easiest riding of our trip, both on and off the bike. Most Danes are fluent in english and we are culturally similar. The only difficulty is working with a different currency.

Photos: 2) "Stone Ship" Viking burial site; 3) field of heather; 4) Danish nachos are good; 5) World Heritage burial mound and church site attributed to Viking King Harald Bluetooth circa 965 AD. Harald converted to Christianity but he is mostly known for being the namesake of the electronic device.Read more
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Day 62
Friday, August 9, 2019 at 5:38 PM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 164 ft
Denmark Viborg 56.45194, 9.4123656°27’7” N 9°24’44” E
Look Who We Ran Into!
August 9, 2019 in Denmark ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We're in old town Viborg, a city that was settled by Vikings in the 8th century, where we caught up with Al Yarber. We met Al commuting on the ARBT several years ago and he has been a good friend since. Al rode out of Carmichael in February, crossed the US, jumped over to Finland, went up and over to Norway, down to Denmark and is on his way to Germany, the Netherlands and the UK. Then it's back to the East Coast to cross America, again. We're going out to dinner to plan our next adventures.Read more
TravelerOur tentative plan is to end the cycling trip in Hirtshals then ferry to Trondheim to view the Fjords and proceed by rail/car from there. We will keep you posted.
8/10/19Reply
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Day 63
Saturday, August 10, 2019 at 6:32 PM
🌧 18 °C
Altitude: 69 ft
Denmark Støvring 56.89886, 9.8380856°53’56” N 9°50’17” E
Serious Rain Today
August 10, 2019 in Denmark ⋅ 🌧 18 °C
Heavy rain today. We tried to take cover for the big cloud bursts but gave up and dead headed it in a downpour to the first motel we came to outside of Aalborg. We did manage to get in lunch at a good restaurant on the waterfront in Hobro.Read more
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Day 64
Sunday, August 11, 2019 at 5:02 PM
☁️ 17 °C
Altitude: 30 ft
Denmark Hirtshals 57.59152, 9.9573757°35’29” N 9°57’27” E
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End Of The Ride: Istanbul to Hirtshals
August 11, 2019 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
3,353 miles, 11 countries, 64 days across the European continent. Now, we are bringing the bike tour to an end, but we are going on to Norway by ferry and from there we will using cars and trains on the Scandinavian Peninsula. We are ending the daily blog but may add a postscript or two if we find something interesting.

Many thanks to all of you for following us. We appreciate your interest and support. Your comments, both posted and private, were enjoyed by both of us. We look forward to seeing you all in September.Read more
Linda BeirneCongratulations to you both! What a great accomplisment!! You must feel so proud. I know I'm proud of you. Looking forward to seeing you in September. Safe travels 🙏
8/11/19Reply
Kim SchwabCongratulations to you both!
8/11/19Reply
Jim DoddsWOW What a wonderful trip.
8/11/19Reply
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Day 68
Thursday, August 15, 2019 at 12:42 PM
⛅ 14 °C
Altitude: 1,542 ft
Norway Kanthaugen 61.12661, 10.4917561°7’36” N 10°29’30” E
JUMP!
August 15, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Greetings from the '94 Winter Olympic venue: Lillehammer, Norway.

Norway is spectacular. You gotta get here.
Kim SchwabIt's on my list!
8/15/19Reply
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Day 69
Friday, August 16, 2019 at 2:45 PM
☁️ 13 °C
Altitude: 2,165 ft
Sweden Storbo 61.85167, 12.2861°51’6” N 12°16’48” E
Reindeer Own The Road In Sweden
August 16, 2019 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
And the moose are bigger in Norway.
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Day 74
Wednesday, August 21, 2019 at 6:45 AM
⛅ 7 °C
Altitude: 1,545 ft
Norway Bjørkhaugen 62.125, 7.17562°7’30” N 7°10’30” E
Geiranger Fjord
August 21, 2019 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C
Look for farmhouse in Photo 3, inhabited up to 1941. Photo 5: campsite for the night.
TravelerThe farm house seems to be in the 5th photo. There is a dark colored vehicle in the 6th photo. This area looks more like a scenic parking spot, rather than a campsite. Are you renting a car for awhile?
8/25/19Reply
TravelerThe cliff faces are dotted with farmhomrs as shown in 3. Children were tethered for safety. The cliffs are no longer farmed but some homes have been preserved. We rented a car for Norway.
8/25/19Reply
TravelerNorway is an amazingly beautiful country that was very poor. Hence, my great grandparents emigrating to America. Today Norway is very wealthy from oil. It is 4th largest exporter of oil and has the highest cost of living in the world.
8/25/19Reply
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Trip end
September 2, 2019