• Roger Formanek
  • Roger Formanek

Heritage Tour

Bike tour visiting European roots. Leia mais
  • Routine Day Riding Around

    29 de julho de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We didn't get as far as expected today. We rode against a stiff wind out of the west and there was not a straight path for us to follow. We zigzagged all day long through farmland, towns and villages We are definitely on our own now as we've left the cycling tourists on the Elbe.

    We are in what used to be East Germany. Locals talk of the East and the West as if there is still a division. Tomorrow we plan to ride to Goslar, in the West. Goslar is a 1.000 year old mining town on the north side of the Harz Mountains that has World Heritage status. We may take a day off there.

    Today, for the first time, we are seeing half-timbered buildings and they are now common. Photo 1 is our hotel for the night. Scored again! Photo 2 is a Soviet WWII memorial. Photo 3 is a race track that we came across.
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  • Crossing The Iron Curtain

    30 de julho de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We crossed over to the West this morning. We knew approximately where the border was but we pinned it down by the change in lampposts. Photo 1. Stalin built the Iron Curtain to isolate the Soviet Bloc countries from the West. Winston Churchill used the term in a speach he gave in 1946 at Westminster College in Missouri, where Susan and I have visited.

    Photo 2: Halberstadt Cathedral holds the first pipe organ to be installed in a cathedral, year 1205. Photo 3 is of the Harz Mountains. Photo 4 was taken in Goslar, a World Heritage site because of the timber- framed structures in the Old Town area.
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  • Iron Curtain Trail Gets Two Thumbs Up

    31 de julho de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Were on the Iron Curtain Trail (aka EuroVelo 13) and is has nicest riding we've had in Germany yet. Pretty landscape, varied topography, a mix of riding surfaces and no people. It was wonderful, except I forgot to load the route in my Garmin and this is one route where I could use turn-by-turn guidance.

    The route is under development but when completed it will run the entire length of the Iron Curtain. We did a segment in the Czech Republic and liked that too. Too bad I didn't know more about it before we left.

    Look closely at Photo 4. It shows the side and back yards of a home built on the outskirt of a village since the wall came down. The photo shows one of the monuments marking the border between East and West. Look closer - there is a guard tower visible under the roof of the carport. Photo 2 doesn't show the actual fench, which was double-rowed, tall, with barbed wire. The fences were mined. Dogs and guard stations were in the middle.
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  • Approaching Hamburg

    1 de agosto de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A nice day of riding but not much to talk about because we had to take time out out to handle the business side of our lives. However, the schnitzel lunch gets special mention.

    Tomorrow morning we'll be back on the Elbe trail going into Hamburg. At that point, we will have crossed the European continent. FYI, riding mileage so far is 2836.

    The lead photo was taken at last night's pension. The wall used to be the back fence, with guard tower to boot.. The second photo was taken on the trail. Tanks and troop trucks - watch your speed!
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  • On The Elbe Just Outside Of Hamburg

    2 de agosto de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We got a late start this morning due to heavy rain. Now we're back on the Elbe almost to Hamburg. This afternoon we went through Hamburg's outlying villages. Upscale country properties, lots of horses.

    We're staying in a riverfront tourist town that appears to cater to people looking for a getaway from Hamburg. Very old and very cute. Photos 1 and 6.
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  • We Made It Across Europe

    3 de agosto de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We followed the levee into Hamburg this morning making our way to the BallinStadr Emigrant Museum. Millions of people poured out of Europe through the museum's buildings and boarded vessels on the waterfront for America, including three of my grandparents.

    The city of Hamburg was a surprise. It's busy, modern and has energy you can feel. Heading out of town we went through an area of homes, mansions, parks and at least one embassy that is as nice as anyplace that we've been. Hamburg is worth coming back to.

    Not too far downstream we found a campground. We've spoiled ourselves with the hotels and pensions, but the campground is ok and we are on the river. Tomorrow we turn north to Denmark.
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  • A Day On The Farm

    4 de agosto de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A short day today; it's a day to rest and eat. We kept the miles down and only went 30 through flat, open farmland. There isn't a hill in sight. The roads are quiet and the villages are pretty. Thatched roofs are common in this area. It's serene country.

    Photo 2 is a new home with copper flashing and thatched roof. Photo 4 is of a newborn calf still wet from birth and wobbly on its legs.
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  • EuroVelo 3 Is A Sweet Route

    5 de agosto de 2019, Alemanha ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Since Hamburg we've been following EuroVelo 3 which runs fromTrondheim Fjord in Norway to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. From what we've seen of the section in Northern Germany, this is one nice bike route. It winds in and out of villages, sticks to backcountry roads and the riding is easy.

    Everyday we see something interesting. Today we saw a robot lawn mower. It runs around the lawn and somehow manages to stay on the property. Photo 1. Other sightings: nice homes, a grandmother out with her grandchild and dog, and a pedestrian/bike tunnel under the Kiel Canal/River Eider in Rendsburg. The Kiel Canal links the Baltic and North Seas. Photos 2-5. The prices are going up but the hotels are nice and the food is good. Photo 6.
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  • Hello Denmark, Goodbye Germany

    6 de agosto de 2019, Dinamarca ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We passed through the German city of Flensburg, and into Denmark. No too long ago Flensburg must have been something to see. We went past old homes that could stand shoulder to shoulder with anything in Pacific Heights. Unfortunately, the city is haunted. It was the seat the Nazis goverment after Berlin fell on May 1, 1945, until surrender on May 23rd.

    In Denmark we came across a WWII prison camp for Danish resistance fighters and subversives. It's been preserved as a museum.

    Our last stop in the Danish city of Aabenraa., where we got out first view of the Baltic. Costs have soared so we are in a campground, but it's a nice one.
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  • Denmark So Far

    7 de agosto de 2019, Dinamarca ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This is our first time in Denmark. If you had asked me what Denmark is famous for, I would have said: Lego, Neils Bohr, a hippy commune in Copenhagen, pastries and Nicholas Copernicus. But I would have been wrong: the danish was created by Viennese bakers and Copernicus was a Pole.

    Our first impressions are the countryside is pretty and litter free, properties are well maintained, and the people are nice with a PC mindset. The villages are gone, instead we have towns spread apart and suburban tract housing. The pensions have been replaced by B&B's and hotels and they are expensive. Seriously, except for the weather, we could be in California.

    Nonetheless, Demark is a beautiful country and a great place to ride a bike.

    Photos: 1) the Baltic; 2) old inscribed rock that is a national treasure; 3) stone bridge circa 900 AD; 4) outrunning the weather: 5) topiary.
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  • The Oxen Trail

    8 de agosto de 2019, Dinamarca ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    In Denmark EuroVelo 3 follows a 4,000 year old trade route named the Haervejen, or Oxen Trail. It's a great route: very well marked, marvelous scenery, and good riding surfaces. Signage along the way explains the natural history and the archeology of the area. Both trekkers and cyclist use the route and along the way there are camping areas with covered shelters.

    This has been the easiest riding of our trip, both on and off the bike. Most Danes are fluent in english and we are culturally similar. The only difficulty is working with a different currency.

    Photos: 2) "Stone Ship" Viking burial site; 3) field of heather; 4) Danish nachos are good; 5) World Heritage burial mound and church site attributed to Viking King Harald Bluetooth circa 965 AD. Harald converted to Christianity but he is mostly known for being the namesake of the electronic device.
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  • Look Who We Ran Into!

    9 de agosto de 2019, Dinamarca ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We're in old town Viborg, a city that was settled by Vikings in the 8th century, where we caught up with Al Yarber. We met Al commuting on the ARBT several years ago and he has been a good friend since. Al rode out of Carmichael in February, crossed the US, jumped over to Finland, went up and over to Norway, down to Denmark and is on his way to Germany, the Netherlands and the UK. Then it's back to the East Coast to cross America, again. We're going out to dinner to plan our next adventures.Leia mais

  • Serious Rain Today

    10 de agosto de 2019, Dinamarca ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Heavy rain today. We tried to take cover for the big cloud bursts but gave up and dead headed it in a downpour to the first motel we came to outside of Aalborg. We did manage to get in lunch at a good restaurant on the waterfront in Hobro.Leia mais

  • End Of The Ride: Istanbul to Hirtshals

    11 de agosto de 2019, Dinamarca ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    3,353 miles, 11 countries, 64 days across the European continent. Now, we are bringing the bike tour to an end, but we are going on to Norway by ferry and from there we will using cars and trains on the Scandinavian Peninsula. We are ending the daily blog but may add a postscript or two if we find something interesting.

    Many thanks to all of you for following us. We appreciate your interest and support. Your comments, both posted and private, were enjoyed by both of us. We look forward to seeing you all in September.
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  • Geiranger Fjord

    21 de agosto de 2019, Noruega ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Look for farmhouse in Photo 3, inhabited up to 1941. Photo 5: campsite for the night.

    Final da viagem
    2 de setembro de 2019