• 8. Venice Italy l - Vivaldi concert

    7 Juni 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We arrived in Venice late afternoon, just in time to check in to our hotel, freshen up and head across the canals to the Church of the Pieta, where we had tickets to a chamber orchestra performance of Vivaldi's Four Seasons.

    What a treat! This 7 person group was spectacular.
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  • 7. Monte Carlo, Monaco

    5 Juni 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Monte Carlo, famous for Grace Kelly, expensive yachts & cars, MC casino, the MC grand prix, and the French Riviera is known for its "extravagant display and reckless dispersal of wealth". With the highest average income in the world of > $186k, and no income tax, its a haven for the rich. We took a 1/2 hr train from Nice to explore for a day.

    MC is a region of Monaco, the second smallest and second most densely populated country in the world. We strolled the city, viewing Place du Casino, MC harbor, & Prince Albert II palace. Aside from our challenges in navigating local mass transportation, it was a fun day.
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  • 6. Travel trials & tribulations

    5 Juni 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The challenge of navigating travel through multiple countries each of which have their own protocol for buses, trains and taxis was an expectation on this trip. So its no surprise that we've stumbled a few times making our way around. 2 stories here:

    1.
    We arrived at the Pontorson train station, a small French town which supports tourism to Mont St. Michel, around 6PM, expecting to grab an uber to our hotel 15 minutes away. When uber was unable to find a driver for us, we called the 4 taxi phone numbers listed on a street sign. 3 of them reached answering machines speaking rapid French, and the 4th was a Frenchman who hung up on me when I could not speak French. (I have a few french words for him). Fortunately, another taxi driver who showed up to pick up another group spoke excellent English & offered help. 20 minutes later a taxi arrived to chauffer us to the hotel.

    2.
    We grabbed a train from our hotel along the French Riviera in Nice on Wed for a 1/2 hour ride over to Monaco to see how the rich and famous live. This was a locals commuter train as opposed to the first class travel we've been doing and boarding it was like a competitive sport. Nice to Monaco is apparently a very popular line, and people were close to being trampled as they pushed and shoved to get on the train as the doors were literally closing on them. Ugly.

    We missed our train stop & had to grab an uber back to Monte Carlo. After touring MC, we spent an hour trying unsuccessfully to figure out how to get to Eze (another nearby French Riviera town) by bus or train. We walked excessively around the city (when there was otherwise a free bus available), then got on the free bus, where we once again missed our stop for the train station. By the time we found the train station, we were ready to skip Eze and head back to the hotel. Of course, both trains back to Nice were delayed, so 2 trains worth of people were again jockeying for position and shoving their way through to try to get a seat on the first train that showed up.

    Back at the hotel, we entered the code for our room, which got rejected. 4 tries, no luck. No one at the front desk, however we did see the hotel business card there, so we called and spoke to a manager, who knew very little English. He gave us a temporary code to get in, which worked on the 4th try. Whew. Made me think of my Mom who always said, if at first you dont succeed, try, try again. Bet she was laughing at us from above.

    In the meantime, overlanding by Eurail has its pros & cons. We have first class Eurail tickets for 3 months, and I've found those trains to be very clean and pleasant, our (reserved) seats to be spacious and comfortable, and the ride to be smooth and quiet. On the other hand, hauling around a 45-50lb duffel bag plus backpack on and off the train, up & down stairs at the train stations that often don't have a lift or escalator, and through the streets (when our hotel is close enough to walk), has felt like a bit more of a workout than expected. So glad I got the duffel bag with wheels!
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  • 5. Andorra

    2 Juni 2024, Andorra ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    Bon dia!
    Hola!
    Bonjour!

    Welcome to Andorra, a small (181 sq mi) but beautiful country nestled in the Pyrenees mountains between Spain & France. Here, we wait for someone to greet us before knowing what language to put in our translation app. Andorra is 48% Andorran, (speaking Catalan), 25% Spanish, 11% Portugese, and 4% French. Catalan is an offshoot of Spanish, so Craig is doing fairly well with communication.

    We are staying in Andorra La Vella, which, at 3350 ft, is the highest capital city in Europe. It is a typical historical European city with narrow roads, cobblestone streets, quaint shops and hotels, and a plethora of street cafes, bars & restaurants, but stands out by a view of the surrounding mountains at every turn.

    We strolled through the town and climbed up a short steep vertical path to the Rec del Sola trail that circles the city offering views from above. A pleasant day in a charming city.

    Located nearby is Grandvalira ski resort, covering 215 km of ski area with 138 slopes. We would have liked to have checked it out, but our schedule and lack of car have to be considered. Maybe next time. :)
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  • 4. Mont Saint Michel

    31 Mei 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Mont St Michel was conceived in the year 708 when the archangel Michael reportedly appeared in a dream of Bishop Saint Aubert and asked him to build a sanctuary in his name. The castle that exists now was developed over centuries, acting as a destination for pilgrims to connect with their dead ancestors, as a prison during the 100 years war, and now as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Located in the Normandy region of France, the site is a tidal island - during high tide it is completely surrounded by water, and at low tide considered more of a peninsula of mud and quicksand. With a clear 360° view, it was considered fairly impenetrable by would-be attackers. There are about 25 residents there now.

    We got up early and enjoyed the 3km walk on the access boardwalk plus our stroll through the grounds before it got really crowded. Completely unbeknownst to us, the site was scheduled to host a torch lighting ceremony for the upcoming Olympic games later that afternoon. This attracted many local schoolchildren who participated in various sporting events at the venue throughout the day.
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  • 3. Hugo & Lyon

    29 Mei 2024, Perancis ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    A mini-bus and 2 train rides later, we find ourselves catching up with our old Frenchman friend Hugo, whom we met in South America 5 years ago when he & Craig shared a container that shipped their cars from Colon Panama to Cartegena Columbia. Hugo is a Lyon local, and offered to spend the day giving us a tour of the city. He proved to be an excellent guide, we enjoyed the 16km (10mi) walking tour of the city as well as catching up with him personally.

    Briefly, Lyon is the capital city in France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. It is located in the central-east of France and is the third largest city in the country with a population > 500k. Situated between Paris and Marseille, it sits at the junction of the Rhone and Saone rivers. If you're a foodie, you'll want to stop here as it is known as the center of gastronomy in France.
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  • 2. Luxembourg City

    28 Mei 2024, Luksemburg ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    The capital of Luxembourg is a small, ethnically diverse city of 130,000 people, with 170 nationalities representing 47% of the population. We walked around the city today, hearing many languages being spoken. Natives speak primarily French, followed by Luxembourgish (I honestly didn't know that was a language), then German.

    As we strolled through the "old town", we walked the Chemin de la Corniche, which is a pedestrian walkway built into the side of a mountain offering views of the valley. Someone has subtitled "the most beautiful balcony in Europe". (I think that is a bit of a stretch).

    We also saw the Grand Ducal Palace where the Duke resides (Luxembourg operates as a constitutional monarchy), Cathedrale Notre Dame, and stopped at the City Museum to see the "All You Can Eat" exhibit.

    The more modern parts of the city had your standard fare of business buildings, shops, hotels and many cafes, bakeries & pubs. Our hotel was a boutique unit, with a comfortable room, strategically located a few blocks from the train station (and definitely in the hood).

    I'm left a bit underwhelmed by the city, and look forward to heading to Lyon tomorrow, where we will catch up with a friend we met on our South America trip in 2019.
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  • 1. Overlanding Europe!

    26 Mei 2024, Amerika Serikat ⋅ 🌙 39 °F

    Overlanding again!

    I'm so excited to be joining Craig for our 3rd 3 month overlanding trip together. This one will be different from the others: on the South America trip we were in Craig's car and had corresponding flexibility to go where we wanted when we wanted. In Africa, we were on a guided tour, so transportation and lodging were pre-determined. Here in Europe we will be using the Eurail and other mass transportation to traverse through 22 countries in 13 weeks.

    This is the current itinerary, subject to change. (See attached 2 maps)

    Luxembourg
    France
    Andorra
    Italy
    San Marino
    Malta
    Albania
    Montenegro
    Serbia (Hello Novak!)
    Bulgaria
    Romania
    Moldova
    Hungary
    Slovakia
    Czech Republic
    Poland (Hello Iga!)
    Lithuania
    Latvia
    Estonia
    Finland
    Sweden
    Norway
    HOME
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  • 13. "Bless" (goodbye) Iceland

    8 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    At Keflavic airport, awaiting my flight to JFK then home. I have a few hours to kill as Craig's flight to Dublin was much earlier than mine.

    We enjoyed the roughly 2000 km (1240 miles) that we travelled along the ring road. (About 177 miles per day on average). Nature treated us to a vibrant rainbow as we departed Reykjavik on our last morning here. Thank you, Iceland, for sharing your extraordinary remote and unspoiled beauty with us!Baca selengkapnya

  • 12. More waterfalls (and campervans)

    7 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    More waterfalls!

    We walked up 527 stairs to get to the top of the waterfall and hiked another mile or so to see more falls. You could apparently hike for miles up there - beautiful scenery and less tourists because of the effort it takes to get up there in the first place. I would have loved to have spent half a day exploring, but we needed to get back to Reykjavik tonight.

    On another note, camper vans are VERY popular here. Craig and I have weighed some of the pros and cons, and remain happy with our self-drive tour choice. The campers do have some interesting sayings painted on their exterior doors though - see pix.
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  • 11. Food Observations

    6 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    A few notes about food...

    The language spoken here is Icelandic, though everyone we've met seems to be anywhere between competant and fluent in English. Food labels at the grocery stores are mostly in Icelandic so the camera feature of Google Translate has been particularly useful.

    Food prices are very high here - appetizers run $15-30, dinners run around $25-60, (the $25 options are bread-based foods like sandwiches, burgers or small pizza), a glass of house wine about $16. We did find one local fish'n chips take-out for about $23. Veggies are rarely served with meals, and are roughly twice the price at the store of what we are used to in the US. I've been munching on store bought carrots, lettuce, apples and a red pepper in the car as we travel. Not unexpectedly, the quality & taste of these products shipped here from abroad is less than what we're accustomed to in the US. Craig's snack of choice is crackers with peanut butter, or pb & banana sandwiches. Yes, I've had a few of those too!

    Some of the meals have been delicious, most just kind of average. The lamb, cod & arctic char are wonderful . I made the mistake of trying a local dish called "Icelandic moss soup", served up in a local farmhouse turned cafe. The moss was fine, but the broth tasted like sugared oatmilk, which I think is what it actually was. I try to roll with the punches, but I confess to finding it downright inedible. (When the waiter asked, I told him it just wasn't quite what I had expected. He smiled indulgently - I'm pretty sure I wasn't the first person to say this).

    Anyway, our self-drive tour includes buffet breakfast at each hotel, and the offerings were varied. The best ones included hot food like scrambled eggs with bacon & brown beans, but they all include breads, rolls, croissants, & pastries, yogurt, oatmeal, cereal, and processed meats & cheeses. Sometimes there is canned fruit cocktail & sometimes fruit like bananas & apples.

    Bottom line - you need to like fish/meat, potatoes and bread to survive here. Fruits & vegetables just aren't readily available. One of our healthiest and least expensive meals was found at the gas station convenience store - a tip we picked up from a fellow blogger.
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  • 10. Kayaking thru Icebergs

    6 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Today we had the super fun experience of kayaking through the icebergs at Vatnajokull National Park in southeastern Iceland.

    At 8500 sq km of surface area, Vatnajokull is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland's landmass. We joined 4 other people, including our guide Gudaney, and others from Kansas, Colombia & Australia, in paddling our way in blow-up boats through the maze of icebergs that had broken off from the glacier and were floating through the fjord.

    Gudaney (quite sure I've misspelled that) happily answered our questions about growing up in the remote parts of the country. Her school had 16 people, ages 6-16, and her age level boasted a class of 4. Her description of a happy childhood just reminded us how you don't miss what you've never had.
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  • 9. Husavik & Djupivogur

    5 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Our trip took us through some quaint fishing villages that we stopped to visit.

    I chatted with the woman who owns the coffee truck in Djupivogur harbor. She moved here from Reykjavik years ago; she was a school principal and her husband the mayor before they retired. Now they live a quiet life in a village of about 500 people that caters to tourists, including those visiting from cruise ships. Apparently there are currently up to 4000 tourists descending upon the town daily during the season. Sheesh! The town has been overwhelmed by the influx, and the legislature is currently working on regulations to limit it to 2000.Baca selengkapnya

  • 8. Northeastern coastal drive

    4 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We have found the northeastern part of the ring road to be much prettier and more interesting than the west, probably because we were hugging the coast much of the way.

    We've run into a little weather here and there, some rain, some drizzle, and some fog, but Craig has navigated the driving expertly and we are none the worse for wear.Baca selengkapnya

  • 7. Hverfjall Crater plus

    4 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    The Hverfjall Crater, located in northern Iceland, stands 1300 feet high with a rim diameter of over 3300 feet, making it one of the biggest craters of its kind in the world. We hiked up and around the diameter to enjoy a little exercise and the view.

    We also stopped at Dimmuborgir to stroll through the lava caves. Dimmuborgir was made famous when a part of Game of Thrones was filmed here one winter.
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  • 6. Hotels (so far...)

    3 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    3 hotels down, 3 to go. Our 7th hotel will be a repeat of the first.

    We were not surprised by the minimalist nature of the hotel rooms, which is not saying we have any complaints. All have been clean, functional, and pleasant. We expected the Icelandic style of furnishings and accommodations to lean towards that of other Nordic countries: small, modular, practical, efficient.

    That said, the locations have been peacefully remote and the natural beauty surrounding them (except in the city of Reykjavik), stunning.
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  • 5. Scenery - Water, Ice & Snow

    3 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Even though we've only travelled a small part of the Island, our first impressions of Iceland leave us thinking this is the least likely country in the entire world to have water resource issues. Since reaching the north part of the island, the landscape is filled or scattered with snow capped mountains, partially iced up ponds and fjords, and saturated meadows turned into bogs.Baca selengkapnya

  • 4. Icelandic Waterfalls & Hot Springs

    2 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    We're not huge waterfall fans, but waterfalls are part of what Iceland is all about. The Barnafoss and Godafoss Falls were our first sightings - I think the best is still yet to come.

    The Barnafoss Falls come with an Icelandic tale about 2 boys that fell off a bridge over the falls and drowned. Charming.

    We've also seen quite a few geothermal hot springs in our day - anyone who's been to Yellowstone is familiar with them. Again, Iceland wouldn't be complete without including them. Our first experience was at Namaskard.
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  • 3. Western countryside

    2 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    We left Reykjavik and travelled north through the countryside. The landscape in this part of Iceland was initially less than spectacular, but we gradually came upon more picturesque mountains & waterways. There were quite a few individual residential buildings standing in meadows or on mountains in the middle of nowhere, and I had to wonder what life would be like in the middle of winter in a place like that.

    A few pix...
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  • 2. Day 1

    1 Mei 2024, Amerika Serikat ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Ok - our enthusiasm may have been wanting a bit - our first day here was actually a bit of a blur. Neither one of us slept well the night before the alarm went off at 4A for our 7A flight to LA then NY, nor did we sleep well on the ensuing red-eye we took out of JFK to Keflavik airport. We arrived around 9:30A a bit bleary-eyed, but we had an itinerary to follow, so off we went!

    Today's itinerary sent us directly from the airport to the southwestern corner of the island called the Reykjanes Peninsula, where we viewed the Reykjanes Lighthouse and volcanic coastal region before heading north to our hotel in the capital city of Reykjavik. We checked in and wandered the downtown area where we found a delightful locals-style seafood restaurant, where you set and bus your own table. Love it. Did you know that even in restaurants that provide table-side service, tipping is neither solicited not expected? No credit card processors that prompt you to tip 20-40%. Makes up, at least a little, for the extremely expensive cost of food here.

    BTW - the famous Blue Lagoon, which was on our itinerary for today, has been closed due to a volcanic eruption at nearby Sundhnúkagígar. The Blue Lagoon is a man-made geothermal spa that is the most visited paid for attraction in Iceland. There are plenty of geothermal spas here and we're not big fans of crowded tourist attractions, so we'll happily go find another.
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  • 1. Iceland - Land of Fire & Ice

    1 Mei 2024, Islandia ⋅ 🌬 46 °F

    Iceland, known as the land of fire & ice due to its many glaciers and active volcanoes, is also renowned for stunning landscapes, waterfalls, geothermal hot springs, northern lights viewing, puffins, high cost of living, never-ending daylight (summer solstice), and eco-friendly, sustainable living practices.

    Our 8 day 7 night self-drive tour around the Iceland ring road starts today! Having left my house @ 4:45A yesterday, we arrived @ 9:30 this morning at Keflavik Airport and have everything we need for a great experience: rental car, itinerary, booked hotels, (rain jackets) smiling faces, and enthusiasm!
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  • 59. Egypt - Aswan Dam & Temple of Isis

    21 Juli 2023, Mesir ⋅ ☀️ 102 °F

    The Aswan High Dam is one of the world's largest embankment dams, which was built across the Nile in Aswan, Egypt, between 1960 and 1970, 60 years after the Low Aswan Dam. With its ability to better control flooding, provide increased water storage for irrigation and generate hydroelectricity, the dam was seen as pivotal to Egypt's industrialization.

    Our guide described this as one of the most important industrial accomplishments in Egypt. It is guarded by the military, with the acknowledgement that the entire Aswan province would be flooded in 6 hours should the dam be compromised.

    The dam was responsible for the creation of Nasser Lake, and at about 300 miles long and 10 miles wide, it is the second largest man-made lake in the world. The lake shares a border with Sudan, with 83% of the lake in Egypt.

    We also went to the Temple of Isis, aka the Philae temple, which is an island-based temple complex in the reservoir of the Aswan Dam.
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  • 58. Egypt - Abu Simbel Temple

    20 Juli 2023, Mesir ⋅ ☀️ 111 °F

    Abu Simbel is a historic site comprising two massive rock-cut temples in the village of Abu Simbel near the border with Sudan. The twin temples were originally carved out of the mountainside in the 13th century BC,

    To me, the most noteworthy fact about this temple was that it was completely relocated in its entirety in 1968 to higher ground to avoid it being submerged by Lake Nasser, the Aswan Dam reservoir. Can you imagine the level of effort & engineering?

    Temple commemorates the 19th Dynasty reign of the Pharaoh Ramesses II, and his wife Nefertari.
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  • 57. Egypt - Nile Cruise

    19 Juli 2023, Mesir ⋅ ☀️ 104 °F

    I failed to mention that we've been travelling through Egypt via cruise ship on the Nile. Our room is surprisingly large with great views, and the ride has been quite smooth. All food is buffet style, and with a full ship, filling your plate is a contact sport.

    I would have to make the general observation that i enjoy travelling under our own power (as we did in South America in Craig's car) more than being part of a tour group, where you are herded around like a bunch of cattle. Maybe I'm just too old to be told where to go and what to do and when to do it for 76 days straight...
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  • 56. Egypt: Edfu - Edfu Temple

    19 Juli 2023, Mesir ⋅ ☀️ 102 °F

    We sailed south on the Nile to the town of Edfu, and disembarked for a tour of - you guessed it! - Edfu Temple. The temple is dedicated to the Horus, a god in the form of a falcon whose right eye was the sun or morning star, representing power and quintessence, and whose left eye was the moon or evening star, representing healing.Baca selengkapnya

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