• Karen Hechinger
toukok. – elok. 2024

Europe by Eurail 2024

Southern & Eastern Europe plus Scandanavia Lue lisää
  • Matkan aloitus
    26. toukokuuta 2024

    1. Overlanding Europe!

    26. toukokuuta 2024, Yhdysvallat ⋅ 🌙 39 °F

    Overlanding again!

    I'm so excited to be joining Craig for our 3rd 3 month overlanding trip together. This one will be different from the others: on the South America trip we were in Craig's car and had corresponding flexibility to go where we wanted when we wanted. In Africa, we were on a guided tour, so transportation and lodging were pre-determined. Here in Europe we will be using the Eurail and other mass transportation to traverse through 22 countries in 13 weeks.

    This is the current itinerary, subject to change. (See attached 2 maps)

    Luxembourg
    France
    Andorra
    Italy
    San Marino
    Malta
    Albania
    Montenegro
    Serbia (Hello Novak!)
    Bulgaria
    Romania
    Moldova
    Hungary
    Slovakia
    Czech Republic
    Poland (Hello Iga!)
    Lithuania
    Latvia
    Estonia
    Finland
    Sweden
    Norway
    HOME
    Lue lisää

  • 3. Hugo & Lyon

    29. toukokuuta 2024, Luxemburg ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    A mini-bus and 2 train rides later, we find ourselves catching up with our old Frenchman friend Hugo, whom we met in South America 5 years ago when he & Craig shared a container that shipped their cars from Colon Panama to Cartegena Columbia. Hugo is a Lyon local, and offered to spend the day giving us a tour of the city. He proved to be an excellent guide, we enjoyed the 16km (10mi) walking tour of the city as well as catching up with him personally.

    Briefly, Lyon is the capital city in France’s Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. It is located in the central-east of France and is the third largest city in the country with a population > 500k. Situated between Paris and Marseille, it sits at the junction of the Rhone and Saone rivers. If you're a foodie, you'll want to stop here as it is known as the center of gastronomy in France.
    Lue lisää

  • 2. Luxembourg City

    28. toukokuuta 2024, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    The capital of Luxembourg is a small, ethnically diverse city of 130,000 people, with 170 nationalities representing 47% of the population. We walked around the city today, hearing many languages being spoken. Natives speak primarily French, followed by Luxembourgish (I honestly didn't know that was a language), then German.

    As we strolled through the "old town", we walked the Chemin de la Corniche, which is a pedestrian walkway built into the side of a mountain offering views of the valley. Someone has subtitled "the most beautiful balcony in Europe". (I think that is a bit of a stretch).

    We also saw the Grand Ducal Palace where the Duke resides (Luxembourg operates as a constitutional monarchy), Cathedrale Notre Dame, and stopped at the City Museum to see the "All You Can Eat" exhibit.

    The more modern parts of the city had your standard fare of business buildings, shops, hotels and many cafes, bakeries & pubs. Our hotel was a boutique unit, with a comfortable room, strategically located a few blocks from the train station (and definitely in the hood).

    I'm left a bit underwhelmed by the city, and look forward to heading to Lyon tomorrow, where we will catch up with a friend we met on our South America trip in 2019.
    Lue lisää

  • 4. Mont Saint Michel

    31. toukokuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Mont St Michel was conceived in the year 708 when the archangel Michael reportedly appeared in a dream of Bishop Saint Aubert and asked him to build a sanctuary in his name. The castle that exists now was developed over centuries, acting as a destination for pilgrims to connect with their dead ancestors, as a prison during the 100 years war, and now as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Located in the Normandy region of France, the site is a tidal island - during high tide it is completely surrounded by water, and at low tide considered more of a peninsula of mud and quicksand. With a clear 360° view, it was considered fairly impenetrable by would-be attackers. There are about 25 residents there now.

    We got up early and enjoyed the 3km walk on the access boardwalk plus our stroll through the grounds before it got really crowded. Completely unbeknownst to us, the site was scheduled to host a torch lighting ceremony for the upcoming Olympic games later that afternoon. This attracted many local schoolchildren who participated in various sporting events at the venue throughout the day.
    Lue lisää

  • 5. Andorra

    2. kesäkuuta 2024, Andorra ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    Bon dia!
    Hola!
    Bonjour!

    Welcome to Andorra, a small (181 sq mi) but beautiful country nestled in the Pyrenees mountains between Spain & France. Here, we wait for someone to greet us before knowing what language to put in our translation app. Andorra is 48% Andorran, (speaking Catalan), 25% Spanish, 11% Portugese, and 4% French. Catalan is an offshoot of Spanish, so Craig is doing fairly well with communication.

    We are staying in Andorra La Vella, which, at 3350 ft, is the highest capital city in Europe. It is a typical historical European city with narrow roads, cobblestone streets, quaint shops and hotels, and a plethora of street cafes, bars & restaurants, but stands out by a view of the surrounding mountains at every turn.

    We strolled through the town and climbed up a short steep vertical path to the Rec del Sola trail that circles the city offering views from above. A pleasant day in a charming city.

    Located nearby is Grandvalira ski resort, covering 215 km of ski area with 138 slopes. We would have liked to have checked it out, but our schedule and lack of car have to be considered. Maybe next time. :)
    Lue lisää

  • 6. Travel trials & tribulations

    5. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The challenge of navigating travel through multiple countries each of which have their own protocol for buses, trains and taxis was an expectation on this trip. So its no surprise that we've stumbled a few times making our way around. 2 stories here:

    1.
    We arrived at the Pontorson train station, a small French town which supports tourism to Mont St. Michel, around 6PM, expecting to grab an uber to our hotel 15 minutes away. When uber was unable to find a driver for us, we called the 4 taxi phone numbers listed on a street sign. 3 of them reached answering machines speaking rapid French, and the 4th was a Frenchman who hung up on me when I could not speak French. (I have a few french words for him). Fortunately, another taxi driver who showed up to pick up another group spoke excellent English & offered help. 20 minutes later a taxi arrived to chauffer us to the hotel.

    2.
    We grabbed a train from our hotel along the French Riviera in Nice on Wed for a 1/2 hour ride over to Monaco to see how the rich and famous live. This was a locals commuter train as opposed to the first class travel we've been doing and boarding it was like a competitive sport. Nice to Monaco is apparently a very popular line, and people were close to being trampled as they pushed and shoved to get on the train as the doors were literally closing on them. Ugly.

    We missed our train stop & had to grab an uber back to Monte Carlo. After touring MC, we spent an hour trying unsuccessfully to figure out how to get to Eze (another nearby French Riviera town) by bus or train. We walked excessively around the city (when there was otherwise a free bus available), then got on the free bus, where we once again missed our stop for the train station. By the time we found the train station, we were ready to skip Eze and head back to the hotel. Of course, both trains back to Nice were delayed, so 2 trains worth of people were again jockeying for position and shoving their way through to try to get a seat on the first train that showed up.

    Back at the hotel, we entered the code for our room, which got rejected. 4 tries, no luck. No one at the front desk, however we did see the hotel business card there, so we called and spoke to a manager, who knew very little English. He gave us a temporary code to get in, which worked on the 4th try. Whew. Made me think of my Mom who always said, if at first you dont succeed, try, try again. Bet she was laughing at us from above.

    In the meantime, overlanding by Eurail has its pros & cons. We have first class Eurail tickets for 3 months, and I've found those trains to be very clean and pleasant, our (reserved) seats to be spacious and comfortable, and the ride to be smooth and quiet. On the other hand, hauling around a 45-50lb duffel bag plus backpack on and off the train, up & down stairs at the train stations that often don't have a lift or escalator, and through the streets (when our hotel is close enough to walk), has felt like a bit more of a workout than expected. So glad I got the duffel bag with wheels!
    Lue lisää

  • 7. Monte Carlo, Monaco

    5. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Monte Carlo, famous for Grace Kelly, expensive yachts & cars, MC casino, the MC grand prix, and the French Riviera is known for its "extravagant display and reckless dispersal of wealth". With the highest average income in the world of > $186k, and no income tax, its a haven for the rich. We took a 1/2 hr train from Nice to explore for a day.

    MC is a region of Monaco, the second smallest and second most densely populated country in the world. We strolled the city, viewing Place du Casino, MC harbor, & Prince Albert II palace. Aside from our challenges in navigating local mass transportation, it was a fun day.
    Lue lisää

  • 8. Venice Italy l - Vivaldi concert

    7. kesäkuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We arrived in Venice late afternoon, just in time to check in to our hotel, freshen up and head across the canals to the Church of the Pieta, where we had tickets to a chamber orchestra performance of Vivaldi's Four Seasons.

    What a treat! This 7 person group was spectacular.
    Lue lisää

  • 9. Venice ll - canals & tourism

    8. kesäkuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    As you probably know, Venice’s unique charm lies in its winding canals, gondolas, bridges & eclectic architecture. Known as "the floating city", it is best known for having no roads, with buildings built directly on/in the water. Due to rising sea levels and the weight of its buildings, some scientists claim that it will completely sink by 2100.

    Venice joined the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1987 as an "extraordinary architectural masterpiece". However exploding volumes of tourism, (with over 30 mil visitors last year, and roughly 90% of them day trippers), have left UNESCO just shy of adding it to the list of "heritage sites in danger". Venice is exploring ways to reduce tourism - currently it is imposing a small tariff on day trippers who do not stay in Venice overnight. Not sure this will do much good.
    Lue lisää

  • 10. Venice lll-St. Marks Square & Murano

    9. kesäkuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Piazza San Marco is the primary public square in Venice, and plays hots to several famous architectural structures, including the Basilica, the Doge's Palace, and the iconic bell tower and clock tower.

    We also caught a ferry over to Murano island, which is known for its glass making factories.
    Lue lisää

  • 11. San Marino

    10. kesäkuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    I'm embarrassed to say I did not know that San Marino was its own country. Completely surrounded by Italy, it is a mountainous microstate and one of the world's oldest republics.

    On the slopes of Monte Titano sits the capital, also called San Marino, known for its medieval walled old town and narrow cobblestone streets. The Three Towers, castlelike citadels dating to the 11th century, sit atop Titano’s neighboring peaks.

    We took a bus ride from Rimini over to SM for the day, wandering through the town and the towers. Craig wanted to see the stamp & coin museum, so we stopped in there as well. It was so fun. 😁
    Lue lisää

  • 12. Florence Italy

    12. kesäkuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Florence is the capital of Italy's Tuscan region, and home to many Renaissance art and architectural masterpieces. I did have a few free hours while Craig was busy, so I went out for a run through the streets. Dodging tourists definitely kept me on my toes! Because I've been here before, (and because the city was almost overrun with tour groups), I was happy to do a day's walking tour and move on.Lue lisää

  • 13. Cagliari, island of Sardinia, Italy

    15. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We grabbed a quick flight over to Cagliari, located in the south part island of Sardinia, a popular place for Italians and other Europeans to enjoy the beach. We stayed in a fantastic little boutique hotel located at the beginning of the Poetto Beach strip.

    We rented bikes to toodle around a bit, and hit the beach. Btw - all the girls wear thongs here. There were a ton of teenagers around - I think we may have stumbled onto a high school graduation weekend celebration, or something. Eye candy for the Craigger!
    Lue lisää

  • 14. ...when something goes wrong.

    16. kesäkuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    Almost funny.

    Craig likes to say " The adventure begins when something goes wrong". I think you're supposed to run outside, twirl around 3 times and spit on the sidewalk to avoid the corresponding curse that is bestowed upon you if you mention that phrase out loud. We apparently missed that step.

    Our respite from cathedrals, castles & old towns, was to be a few beach days on the Italian island of Sardinia, followed by a few days on the French island of Corsica, located one hour's ferry ride north of Sardinia.

    Sun & relaxation, right?! Mmmmm...maybe not...

    We got a note from Eurail announcing a nationwide train strike on the day we were to take the train up from Cagliari (south Sardinia), to north Sardinia, where we would catch the ferry to Corsica. Time to regroup.

    After hours investigating other travel options to reach the ferry, we ended up taking an uber to the airport near us, to pick up a rental car that we drove up north to the northern airport (only drop-off spot for the car) then caught the bus that took us to within .3 mile of the ferry. We lugged our bags in the heat to the ferry, only to be notified that our ferry ticket was cancelled due to an issue with the boat.

    Ok - somebody's yanking our chain, right?

    Nope! 😊 Our ferry ride was indeed cancelled. Of course, the ticket office booths for the 2 ferry companies that operated out of this port were both unmanned when we got there, so we collaborated with other stranded tourists, then strategically put Craig in one line for one company and me in the line for the other so we could access the first person to show up at either office that might help us understand our options.

    Fortunately, we had a pre-purchased ferry ticket which got transferred to the other ferry line that was running that day. Not sure our fellow conspirators fared as well. After a pleasant 1 hour ferry ride to Corsica, we found ourselves in Bonafacio Harbor, looking to get to our hotel in Ponte Vecchio, roughly 17 miles away. No ubers, and turns out buses do not run on Sundays. (Of course they don't). We shlepped our bags about 1/4 mile to the taxi stand. $100 later (cash required), we arrived at our hotel.

    11 hours, covering roughly 280 miles, via uber, rental car, bus, walking, ferry & taxi. A memorable travel day for sure. 🧳 😅
    Lue lisää

  • 15. Porto Vecchio in Corsica, France

    17. kesäkuuta 2024, Ranska ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Corsica is a French island known for its gorgeous beaches, rugged coastline, and hiking. Although culturally, it is more like Italy than France, French is the official language, with Corsican and Ligurian (Genoese) also spoken.

    We arrived via the ferry port of Bonafacio, an historical village within a medieval fortress protected by steep cliffs and the Mediterranean Sea. Now, it is a picturesque harbor filled with expensive yachts and lined with boutiques, restaurants, and hotels.

    We stayed in Porto-Vecchio, an up-scale town about 30 minutes drive north-east of Bonifacio, which is famous for being the birthplace of Napolean Bonapart. We jumped on a sunset cruise, and were privvy to viewing the multiple scenic bays adjacent to one another and hillsides dotted with impressive vacation homes, one of which we are told belongs to Jeff Bezos. With fewer tourists than most other place we've been, the whole experience was more enjoyable. Also, our hotel boasted a roof-top patio with a view of the Tyrrhenian Sea (subset of the Mediterranean Sea) - sweet serenity.
    Lue lisää

  • 16. Palermo, Sicily - Street Food +

    20. kesäkuuta 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌙 81 °F

    Palermo is the ancient seaside capital of Sicily, an island lying off the southwest coast of continental Italy. Palermo traces its origins to the early Phoenicians in 736 B.C., and has known a succession of rulers from Arab to Norman. Each culture has left its mark, witness the countless architectural contributions to this city of 1,000,000+.

    Sicily's renowned culinary tradition lives on in the famous Ballaro St. Market, where you can savor a range of "street food" delicacies (?) Craig and I have both been just mildly under the weather, so, after watching rice balls being made without gloved hands, and flies swarming the food, I decided to pass up the tempting taste-testing opportunity.

    The main streets in the heart of the historical district are jammed with the cruise ship herd that descends upon the city during the heat of the day, but the crowds begin to thin out in the late afternoon, just in time for a refreshing gelato!
    Lue lisää

  • 17. Malta

    24. kesäkuuta 2024, Malta ⋅ 🌙 73 °F

    Leaving Palermo, we stopped in Catania, which was a bit of a bust for us, with dirty streets, grafitti-laden buildings, and old banged up cars that looked like they hadn't been moved from their parking spots for a month.

    However, an uber, a bus, a ferry and a taxi ride later, we were happily situated on the island of Malta in the town of Valletta. Malta is an archipelago with 3 inhabited islands. We stayed on the largest, Malta, and visited the other 2, Gozo & Camino.

    Gozo was not my cup of tea, but Craig wanted to see the Citadella there. He's much more of a history/anthropology buff than me - I'm starting to get bleary-eyed at the thought of viewing yet another fortress with statues and names of historical figures, and dates and stories of battles and conquests that represent a country's history, all of which I retain for about 5 seconds before viewing the next statue. When do we get to have fun?

    Turns out we got to have fun at the Blue Lagoon at Camino island. Despite being completely overrun by tourists, we found ourselves a spot to hang out on the rocks overlooking the lagoon, and enjoyed a splash in the water. I took a swim across the lagoon to the cave on Comminotto Island, where my fellow adventurers and I slipped off of the algae-topped rocks beneath us as we got knocked around by waves crashing through the cave. Now that was fun!
    Lue lisää

  • 18. Tirana, Albania

    27. kesäkuuta 2024, Albania ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Albania is one of southeast Europe's Balkan states, with coastline along the Mediterranean, Ionian and Adriatic Seas. At present, it is a candidate for, but not yet a member of the EU. It's currency is the lek, but many vendors will accept euros.

    We visited the capital city of Tirana. With one small caveat, I LOVE this city!

    Upon arriving at Tirana airport after midnight, we grabbed a taxi to the hotel, and chatted with our driver about what its like to live here. His shared that he gets paid too little for his work, finds minimal opportunities to improve his status, and is anxious to "get out" as soon as he can. He seemed frustrated and I felt bad for him.

    Although the World Bank classifies Albania as an upper middle income economy, the average monthly salary here is just under $1000 US, with an average cost of living for an individual at about $655 before rent. The 2022 census, at about 2.79 million people shows a 3.7% decline in population over 2011. (Young people leaving?) I had low expectations for what we might see when touring the city.

    I was in for a pleasant surprise. The city has a vibrant energy to it - lots of eclectic shops, cafes & restaurants, with 4-6 stories of apartments built over them, interesting and unique architectural high rises, lots of piazzas and green space, wide pedestrian friendly walkways, streets filled but not overcrowded with locals and tourists. A mini-Manhattan! The caveat I mentioned above is the traffic jams. The city has no rail system - everyone is in a car or bus, and the congestion is dreadful.

    We walked the city for a few hours, grabbing lunch and doing some shopping along the way before negotiating with a non-English speaking Albanian taxi driver for a ride back to the hotel. (Luv Google translation app).
    Lue lisää

  • 19. Albania - Lake Bovilla

    28. kesäkuuta 2024, Pohjois-Makedonia ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    On our second day in Albania, we joined a group tour to stretch our legs with a hike up Mt. Gamti to see Lake Bovilla. The lake is actually a reservoir and provides most of the drinking water for the capital city Tirana.

    Our group of 15 (mostly Europeans - no other Americans), were fun fellow travellers for the day. At the top there was a butte about 3 feet in diameter jutting up in the middle of nowhere. Am I crawling up there for the experience? Absolutely!
    Lue lisää

  • 20. The kindness of strangers

    29. kesäkuuta 2024, Pohjois-Makedonia ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    We got up early today to pack and catch up with our pre-arranged 7A taxi ride to the bus station to grab an 8A bus that would take us on an all day trip from Albania to Bulgaria. Ever the boy scout, Craig left plenty of time to catch our bus, departing the hotel an hour ahead for a 25 minute ride to the bus.

    7:10 - still no taxi. Our hotel is a ways outside of town, there are no taxis just driving by. We flagged down a non- English speaking hotel employee who knew our taxi driver & called him. While a few things got lost in translation, we understood enough to know that he wasn't coming.

    Enter Spressa, the sweet young girl responsible for the hotel's daily breakfast. She arrived for work, saw us standing outside & came to say hello & wish us well. Upon hearing our plight, she called the taxi driver to confirm the situation, then called the hotel owner, who works late and was sleeping. He jumped out of bed, dressed, and jumped in his car to come pick us up at the hotel and get us to the bus. (This, btw, is also the guy who hung around till 1A a few days before to check us into the hotel when we arrived).

    But the clock was ticking and it was just past 7:30 when he came careening around the hotel fountain to collect us. Upon confirming our destination, he took off, breaking speed limits, ruining his tires on potholes and speed bumps, honking his horn and careening through traffic to get us there on time. Upon arrival, he jumped out of the car with us and made inquiries on our behalf to find out which of the numerous buses in the depot was ours. It took a few tries, but we found our bus, thankfully running late, and he even helped us load our bags. To top it off, he refused money when Craig offered it.

    What kind of person does this? He works mostly nights, has a big wedding his hotel was hosting this evening, and would likely never see us again. This wasn't just "good customer service". They say its not what lies behind us or ahead of us that matters, but rather what lies within us. He is an inspiration, and we are so grateful for his kindness.
    Lue lisää

  • 21. Bulgaria

    1. heinäkuuta 2024, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    We spent a few days in Bulgaria, stopping in the capital Sofia, and then in the more northern town of Velinko Tarnovo, former capital, before heading to Romania.

    We strolled through Sophia on a guided tour of the history of communism, which was quite interesting. Bulgaria was a one-party socialist republic closely aligned with Russia, until 1989 when Gorbachev's tendencies towards capitalism and democracy bled through Eastern Europe, and Bulgaria became a multi-party parlimentary republic. Like other countries, managing the transition from state-owned operations to a market based economy has not been quick or easy for the Bulgarians. At this time, healthcare and educational services that used to be completely free now require a small investment by the people, but they are still largely state subsidized. When taxes were described as fairly low, I questioned who was paying for these state services, and the answer was, well, no one. The state services are grossly underfunded and antiquated.

    According to our guide, the country is split in its opinion about the Ukraine war, with many old-timers still honoring that sense of connection to Russia, and pining for reinstatement of socialist rule. Seems like a country divided in political opinion is not just a US characteristic.

    Speaking of antiquated services, train travel here is fairly miserable. The trains regularly run late (our train this morning was 25 minutes late) and have no a/c. We suffered 4 hours of 96 degree heat in a stifling first class train car in which the windows would not remain open unless you held them down. (We propped our 2 windows open with a bottle of water and a roll of tp). Hand fans and sweaty bodies were plentiful. A reddit user described the train system as " a fun experience, if you enjoy a post-apocalyptic aesthetic".
    Lue lisää

  • 22. Bucharest Romania

    4. heinäkuuta 2024, Romania ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Romania is the largest country in SE Europe, and the 12th largest in Europe. Its capital, Bucharest, is famous for housing the Palace of Parliment, the 2nd largest building in the world behind the Pentagon. On our 10 hour train ride leaving Bucharest, I chatted with a local about politics and infrastructure. Romanians have a parlimentary system of govt and vote for a party, not a person. He is disgusted at the slow pace with which the govt takes action on things. I had to laugh. Some things are the same everywhere.

    The train system is fairly dismal, dirty and uncomfortable, but our Romanian friend did talk the conductor into increasing the a/c, and we were very grateful for that. 90° today.

    Post WWII, Romania experienced Soviet occupation and communist style rule until 1989, when the Romanian Revolution took place. Prior to that, the infamous Romanian leader Nicholas Ceausescu imposed severe austerity measures that crippled the economy to the extent of literally having no food for people to eat. Pursuant to the uprising, he and his wife were summarily executed for their roles in political suppresion, and "genocide by starvation".

    (Sorry for the history lesson - its all so much more fascinating when you're in the thick of it!)

    Like Bulgaria, although there is a free market economy, socialism rather than capitalism remains predominant, with many services including healthcare being heavily subsidized by the govt. Unlike Bulgaria there is little appetite for a return to communism.

    One of the things that struck me was how big many of the buildings in Bucharest seemed to be, in comparison to the US. My new Romanian friend seemed amused, as this is a trait of many Eastern European cities developed during the communist era. All in the eye of the beholder, right?
    Lue lisää

  • 23. Peles Castle

    5. heinäkuuta 2024, Romania ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    From Bucharest, we grabbed seats on a comfortable bus to Sinia & Transylvania to tour a few of the most popular castles in Romania.

    Peles Castle is a neo-renaissance palace located in the Carpathian mountains of Romania near Sinia, with 170 rooms spanning 34,000 sq ft. It is rich in hand-carved walnut, ornate glass chandeliers and works of art, and has an extensive armory. The surrounding town reflects its German heritage in both residential and commercial building design - think 'Bavaria'.Lue lisää

  • 24. Dracula - Transylvania

    5. heinäkuuta 2024, Romania ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    The famous Dracula's Castle was built in 1377, is located in the Transylvania region of Romania, and is officially called Bran Castle.

    Local folklore of the period was rich with the supernatural, werewolves, and notions of the 'living dead'. The novelist Bram Stoker is credited with creating the Count Dracula character in 1820 in his writings by blending a real historical character (Vlad Tepes), with superstition (the 'living dead'), and the novelist's imagination (Vampires).

    Vlad Tepes, aka 'Vlad the Impaler', was a Wallachian ruler known for imparting brutal corporal punishment on lawbreakers. In the Wallachian language, Dracula meant 'Devil', or one who showed 'courage, cruelty, and skills.'

    Btw, it is noted that Stoker's Count Dracula is responsible for initiating the ever-popular vampire creature culture, with no less than 430 movies depicting the character.
    Lue lisää

  • 25. Crossing to Serbia

    6. heinäkuuta 2024, Romania ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    The trip from Bucharest, Romania to Belgrade, Serbia was supposed to be one day, but ended up as 2 because of train delays. It managed to be both tedious and interesting at the same time. Tedious, because of the long days and the hot train car that ran over 2 hours late. Interesting because there were no trains or buses going from our part of Romania to Serbia, and we didn't have a solid plan to cross the border.

    We decided to get as close to the Serbian border as we could by train, (we have Eurail passes, so train is always the first option), then figure out some way to cross the border (we literally considered walking) and get to the nearest Serbian train station that would take us to Belgrade. I suppose we could have just swam across the Danube River, but we weren't too keen on that option.

    As usual, our journey was made more enjoyable by our travelmates, in this case a Serbian guy who chatted us up about our trip and about life in Romania, and made a few phone calls from the train to see if he could help us find a way to reach our destination. No luck though.

    We arrived at our final Romania train station at Stamora Moravita (see pic). Now to cross the border.

    There was no real town there, and hardly a station. Certainly no ubers or buses or taxis. There we stood, wondering what to do, when a local old guy with a limp approached us about giving us a ride across the border. He spoke no English (we speak no Romanian), but somehow he & Craig (without using the translation app) came to agreement on services and pricing, and we loaded our stuff and climbed into his dirty, banged up old Audi. The first thing I noticed was that the engine light and the oil light were lit up on his dashboard, along with a third light I couldn't identify. Well, we don't have a lot of options, so, off we went on a wing and a prayer!

    As they say, all's well that ends well. Our driver spoke to both the Romanian and Serbian border guards on our behalf, (something tells me he's an old pro at this), and we cruised through to the Serbian train station unscathed.

    We spent only a day in Belgrade, and my short experience there left me unimpressed, and somewhat ambivalent about the city. Maybe we didn't see the best parts? Maybe we just went through it too quickly. Anyway, a few pix attached.
    Lue lisää