• Karen Hechinger
aug. – des. 2019

Central/South America 2019

August - December 2019 Les mer
  • 26. Colombia - Mompox

    19. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Mompox is a tiny town along the Magdalena River where we stayed one night, mostly because it was on the route to our eventual destination (Ecuador), and we had to stop somewhere. The town is known for its colonial culture, so we toodled around for 2 hours or so before moving on. A few pix attached.

    The hostel where we stayed was run by a young man named Jesus, who fled from Venezuela to find work to support a child and her mother who are still there. I'm sure most of you know the dreadful plight that the Venezuelan people are dealing with, which includes corrupt government, crumbling infrastructure, no work, no food in the stores, and rampant inflation. Although my Spanish is improving, we chatted mostly by using the Google translation app, which he was not familiar with. I helped him find and download it to his phone. He said he will use it to learn English and try to find a way to make it to the US so he can make some money.
    Les mer

  • 27. Bucaramanga to Medellin

    21. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    We left Mompox (which took us about 9 hours to get to), for another 8 hour drive to Bucaramanga, which, although a fairly large city, was once again just a stepping stone for us.

    The interesting parts of these long travel days really centered around the travel itself. This part of Colombia is very mountainous, with nothing but one-lane switchback roads filled with buses, 18-wheelers, and motorcycles. (My guess is that 65% of the population travel by motorcycle here). Passing a semi (going 12 mph up a one-lane winding road that has double yellow lines and "no passing" signs) is truly an art form here. You have to do it, or you'll never reach your destination. Because the roads are very sharp s-curves, visibility is limited and passing is a challenge. But everyone participates in helping others pass, whether it be the semi you are trying to pass (who puts his left blinker on to let you know he has enough visibility around the blind curve to see it is safe), or the motorcyclists, who will pass a truck ahead of you, and then reach back and wave to you if the road is clear. The other passing method, which is often necessary, is pulling out halfway into the oncoming traffic lane to assess the situation, and putting pedal to the metal if the coast is clear. That usually requires about a half dozen failed attempts before you make it. The whole process is part entertaining, part stress, and after several days of it, part "just another day's commute".

    The views, however, from Bucaramenga to our next destination, Medellin (famous for being the home of the infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar), were pretty spectacular, at least in my opinion. Some pix attached here.
    Les mer

  • 28. Colombia - Medellin

    22. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Medellin, at almost 5000 feet above sea level, is know as the City of Eternal Spring for its temperate weather, though it was pretty hot while we were there. It is the 2nd largest city in Colombia after Bogota.

    During our short stay here, we spent a day at Parque Arvi, which is an ecological nature preserve located at the top of the Metrocable System that runs up the slopes of the eastern side of the city. The park is pretty with nice walking trails, but for me, most of the fun included navigating the public transportation system, and the incredible city views from the metrocable (gondola) that takes you to the park.
    Les mer

  • 30. Colombia - Bogota

    23. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    The capital of Colombia is a sprawling city of 8 million+, and is predictably the political and economic hub of the country. It was built "out" instead of "up", with a resulting unimpressive skyline. We strolled through the streets observing a diverse population of students, businessmen, artists, street vendors and other tourists.Les mer

  • 31. Colombia - Bogota - Museo del Oro

    24. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Museo del Oro is supposed to be the best gold museum in the world. I thought it would be about gold as a source of wealth, but it was more about gold as a raw material for creating objects.

    There was a cool video that showed you how nuggets of gold are melted and turned into objects. Outside of that, this wasn't really my thing. But Craig, who has been working with gold all his life as a jewelry manufacturer, thought it was wonderful. He was aghast that I considered not putting it in the blog. So Craig, this step is for you.

    Oh, btw, if you ever get to Bogota, you must go to the museum's restaurant. The food was excellent and prices very reasonable.
    Les mer

  • 33. Colombia - The Andes

    26. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    This was the 4th day out of the last 6 that we would be in the car for 6-9 hours, and I was starting to get a little cranky. But Colombia is a big country, we knew this, and you've got to drive through it to get to the Ecuadorian border.

    Our ride from La Plata to Popayan required us to cross the Andes. The majority of our travel was on jutted, rocky, gravely dirt roads, filled with monster potholes. The roads were narrow with almost no traffic, but our pace was about 10-15 mph because of road quality. A tough and somewhat physically uncomfortable ride.

    But the scenery was nothing short of spectacular.

    The Andes is the longest continental mountain range in the world, running 4300 miles from Venezuela down the western side of South America through Argentina. Its highest elevation peak is 22,838 feet (located in Argentina), second only to the Himalayas. Something else I learned: The peak of Mt Chimborazo in Ecuador (part of the Andes), is actually the furthest point from the earth's surface to its core, due to the "equatorial bulge". So, Mt. Everest, put that in your pipe and smoke it!

    In the end, the ruggedness of our drive was completely offset by the stunning beauty of the environment through which we were truly privileged to travel. It was overpowering in its unspoiled, breathtaking magnificence.
    Les mer

  • 36. Border Crossing - BORDER CLOSED

    29. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We arrived in the Colombia border town of Ipiales last night. We planned to tour the town today (Sunday), and hit the border crossing to Ecuador, 5 miles away, first thing tomorrow.

    We have since learned that the border is closed due to protestor activity, and has been for a few days. There is limited info on when it will open again; the protestors are apparently scheduled to enter discussion with the gov't Monday. Word is, it may open Wednesday. It also may not. To add to the mix, the Pan American Highway from the Ipiales border to the capital city of Quito Ecuador (about 4 hours) is filled with political activist based road closures.

    The other border crossing opportunity through San Miguel is 10 hours away, and while we would dread the drive, partially retracing our steps (which included a construction based delay, stopped dead, of over an hour yesterday - ugh), we're not entirely sure that that border is open either. In addition, the roads leading to that crossing are labeled with a US travel advisory level of 4 (do not travel here).

    "Official" information is impossible to obtain. Craig is gathering information from fellow Overlanders through an Overlanders blog. We are also in touch with the Frenchman with whom we shared the shipping container for the car from Panama to Colombia. He is in the exact same situation as us, except he has a fellow Traveller who needs to catch a flight back to France from Quito. (Not sure that's gonna happen). There's another guy whose Colombian visa is expiring. If he can't get out of Colombia before that, good luck crossing the border afterwards. He'll have a weeks worth of administrative paperwork and fines to deal with.

    Do we stay in Ipiales, and hope that the situation with the protestors resolves itself, and that the border opens in the next few days, as opposed to the next few weeks? In which case we can get to Quito in 5+ hours.

    Or do we travel the "travel advisory 4" dirt & rock roads leading to and from the San Miguel border crossing, adding 2 days to our journey?

    As they say in the entertainment world - STAY TUNED!
    Les mer

  • 37. Colombia - Ipiales

    29. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Ipiales has 2 claims to fame: it is the last town before the most popular border crossing into Ecuador, and it is the home of Santorio Nuestra Senora de Las Lajas – Sanctuary of Our Lady of the (Slabs) Rocks. We took time out from our research and discussions on how to deal with the border closure issue to visit the single tourist attraction the city had to offer.

    The Sanctuary was built as a shrine to the purported miraculous appearance of the Virgin Mary to a traveler and her daughter who were seeking refuge among the rocks during a nasty storm in 1754. Its a popular pilgrimage destination, and there have been subsequent reports of miraculous healing at the site. The architecture of the Sanctuary, which sits on a 130 ft bridge over the Guaitara River is pretty cool.
    Les mer

  • 38. Trampolin de la Muerte

    30. september 2019, Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Well, our Frenchman friend took off from Ipiales to San Miguel (the other border crossing, 10 hours away) a day before us. Based on his feedback, we decided to leave Ipiales and follow in his footsteps. (Another long day in the car – sigh.)

    The road to San Miguel is known as “Trampolin de la Muerte”. Can you translate? Dangerousroads.org labels this road as one of the most dangerous roads in the world. Its also known as “Adios mi Vida”, or “Trampolin del Diablo”. Really? Not exactly a glowing endorsement, but, in the spirit of “adventure travel”, I’m in. Vamanos!

    I’m posting some pics/videos that I’m not sure do real justice to how scary the road feels. The road is just a narrow lane of rocky, rutted dirt and dust, except for the waterfalls that came across the road to find their next path down the mountain. There were times where, with no shoulder and a guard rail that was washed away in the rushing waters of a previous storm, I looked down over a precipice to a several hundred foot straight drop. That’s my fate I thought, should Craig have a leg cramp or something.

    I’m also copying and pasting Dangerousroads.org’s description of the road, below.

    P.S. We made it to San Miguel in one piece. Well done Grego!

    Dangerousroads.org:
    It’s not suitable for public transport or heavy, and was built in 1930 to transport soldiers during the war between Colombia and Peru, and so far has been directly responsible for ending hundreds of lives. Different sources record more than 500 people dead in 2011 and in 1989 about 300 people died in a terrible collapse.

    This track can get very muddy and slippery after rain making it challenging to get through. During and after a storm the road may be impassable, even with a four-wheel-drive vehicle. It’s 70 kms of pure wilderness, challenging road and very light traffic. A no man’s land, a place to connect with nature where you can find solitude and enjoy some of the best landscapes of an already very beautiful country.

    This 70-odd km of narrow gravel road with steep precipices is a real challenging road and a true test of your vehicle and your stamina because the road abounds in twists and turns with wheels sometimes hanging above the precipice. The road includes cliffs, precipices and more than 100 hairpins. The road was built in 1930 and zigzags the Andean mountain range.
    Les mer

  • 39. Border Crossing - Colombia 2 Ecuador

    1. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Success! We reached the border crossing Tuesday, and found it to be the easiest, most organized border crossing yet. Everything in one building (including exporting the car from Colombia & importing it to Ecuador, then checking ourselves out of Colombia and into Ecuador). Would have taken less than an hour, except that they were out to lunch when we arrived. (No, that's not a joke.)

    The refugee crisis (especially with Venezuelans) was reflected by the temporary housing constructed for those with either no passports, or no Visas. There were refugees and their sparse belongings scattered around the building. They teach their children to approach Americans and Europeans and ask for money. We were chatting with an 8 year old, and about to make our donation when military personnel chased him away.

    After crossing the border, we headed to the small town of Coca. Not much in the town, except its proximity to the Amazon.
    Les mer

  • 40. Ecuador - Amazon - Kichwa Tribe

    3. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    The Amazon Rainforest is over 2 million square miles stretched out over 9 countries. Since we crossed the border much closer to the Amazon than in our original plan, we decided to grab a tour now.

    We found a 12 hour tour that included 2 parts: the first part with one of the indigenous tribes still living in the jungle, and the second trekking and canoeing through the jungle.Les mer

  • 42. Amazon - The Jungle

    3. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    After our Kichwa visit, we took our boat to the jungle entrance. We walked along some very sketchy boardwalk planks to a canoe, and paddled through the jungle waters from there. We did see some wildlife, various birds, very large butterflies, howler monkeys, but didn't have a lot of success getting pix.

    The jungle tour was fun anyway. It was very quiet, except for those typical jungle noises, which are pretty cool. We amused ourselves by going piranha fishing before heading back. Caught a few too!
    Les mer

  • 43. Ecuador - Heading to Quito

    5. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Our jungle trip out of Coca was interrupted by a phone call to our guide alerting him to political unrest in the country and the blockades of roads. When we arrived back to Coca, we found we were unable to leave due to transportation industry strikes and roadblocks.

    Fortunately this detained us only one day, and we headed off to the capital, Quito.
    Les mer

  • 44. Ecuador - Quito's Old Town

    6. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Quito's Old Town (Centro Historico) is much like the other historical towns we've seen before, with beautiful architecture, many stunning churches, charming plazas/parks, street artists and entertainers, and lots of souvenir and food vendors.Les mer

  • 45. Ecuador-Quito - Rucu Pichincha Hike

    6. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Because of the political unrest in Quito, we considered fleeing to the coast, but were told that the roads were already blocked (see post 46). So we decided to stick with our itinerary and head up to do the Rucu Pichincha hike.

    Rucu Pichincha is a volcano rising to the height of 15,695 feet, and as such, is a big attraction for those wishing to experience the altitude. The gondola (TeleferiQo) took us to the base where we had amazing views of Quito.

    The hike was fun. I was out of breath and slightly nauseous several times - probably a reflection of both the altitude as well as a poor workout schedule during this trip. We made it to 14, 735 feet before dark clouds and the time of day convinced us to return.
    Les mer

  • 46. Ecuador - Quito - Political Unrest

    6. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    The road blockades that had delayed us leaving Coca for Quito had been just the beginning of a nationwise protest that had picked up momentum over the last few days.

    Earlier in the month, the Gov't had announced an end to fuel subsidies that caused a dramatic increase in gas prices. The transportation industry went on strike for a day, and their cause was supported by the indigenous people (60% of the population of Ecuador), who insisted that the gov't reverse the subsidy elimination. (BTW - the elimination of subsidies was part of a deal with the IMF to obtain a $4B loan)

    Over the last few days, the indigenous have converged on Quito, marching, waving flags, blowing horns, and engaging in violent clashes with the policia and military. Gov't buildings have been barricaded and fortified with police presence, but the gov't has since fled the city, moving to Guayaquil.

    We, on the other hand, are stuck here. There's no way to get around the roadblocks. So we wait, and watch. While there is much activity in the area we are staying in, we are safe in our hotel, and are judicious when ranging outside.
    Les mer

  • 47. Ecuador-Quito - Riots Continue

    10. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We remain stuck in Quito as violent protests and extensive roadblocks continue. Full description from the NYT:

    Seven Days of Unrest and Counting: Thousands Stream Into Ecuador’s Capital

    QUITO, Ecuador — Thousands of protesters streamed into downtown Quito on Wednesday, the seventh day of violent unrest that has brought the country to a virtual standstill, has led to the arrest of hundreds and has threatened the government’s stability.

    President Lenín Moreno of Ecuador arrived in Quito, the capital, on Wednesday afternoon to meet with leaders of the protest movement, which was ignited by the government’s decision last week to eliminate a popular fuel subsidy program. Protesters also staged anti-government rallies in cities nationwide, often barricading roads.
    The demonstrations have been so fierce that Mr. Moreno this week moved the seat of government from Quito to the coastal city of Guayaquil, more than 150 miles away, the first time in over 100 years that it had been moved from the capital.

    More than 700 people have been arrested nationwide over the past week of protests. On Wednesday, the police in Quito used tear gas to break up the crowds, which included members of labor unions and indigenous groups, and some protesters threw Molotov cocktails.

    The Red Cross announced it would suspend operations and assistance because it was unable to guarantee the security of its staffers.

    The government has pushed back as well. In Guayaquil, the authorities themselves blocked a major bridge to frustrate demonstrators, and a curfew imposed this week barred people from areas around government buildings and other strategic locations after 5 p.m.

    The demonstrations were set off by Mr. Moreno’s decision to eliminate fuel subsidies as part of an austerity plan required under an agreement with the International Monetary Fund to help Ecuador stabilize its finances.

    The fuel subsidy cut, which will lead to higher gas and consumer prices, enraged many Ecuadorians who have endured years of economic malaise.

    Transportation unions were among the first to call for a national strike, and students, workers and indigenous organizations soon joined. The union workers called off their strike when they reached a fare-hike agreement with the government. Yet other workers, indigenous groups and students — along with some political rivals of Mr. Moreno — have continued to protest in large numbers.

    The indigenous movement has become a strong political force in Ecuador since the early 1990s, when protesters first marched to Quito, demanding legal recognition of their property over lands they regards as their ancestral property.

    In a televised interview on Tuesday, Mr. Moreno said he would not consider leaving office.
    Les mer

  • 48. We made a run for it!

    11. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Cooped up in our room in Quito for much of the day Tues-Thurs, we spotted an opportunity to escape on Friday after carefully monitoring the news and communicating with other travellers stuck in Quito through the Pan American Highway blog.

    With only one roadblock showing on our route, we hit the road before daybreak on Friday and headed west. The roadblock was gone when we got there, and we put in 10 hours in to get to the coast and the beach town of Montanita.

    Our plan is to get out to Galapagos from Guayaquil airport. Most of the protests that still continue are focused in the central past of the country, so we are hopeful about our travel plans.

    In the meantime, here are some pix from Montanita.
    Les mer

  • 49. Galapagos 1 - San Cristobal

    15. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    The Galapagos archipelago is a National Park that is comprised of 13 volcanic islands and 16 islets located 600+ miles west of mainland Ecuador. Only 4 of the islands are inhabited (by people), with a population of 30,000.

    We started our trip in Isla San Cristobal, the capital of the islands.
    Les mer

  • 50. Galapagos 2 - Sea Lions

    15. oktober 2019, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    There are about 25,000 sea lions in Galapagos, the largest of which can grow to over 8 feet. They can live to be 20 years old. Unlike many other species, the biggest threat to them is not humans, but the decline in fish (food) available to them after El Nino.

    As you can see from the videos, they are not intimidated by humans, and are very playful. They sprawl out unceremoniously on beaches, rocks and docks for naps that help them replenish their oxygen supply.

    So fun to watch them!
    Les mer