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Central/South America 2019
  • Karen Hechinger

Central/South America 2019

August - December 2019 Czytaj więcej
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 28
    • czwartek, 19 września 2019 09:00
    • ☁️ 79 °F
    • Wysokość: 56 ft
    • KolumbiaMompos9°14’24” N  74°25’18” W
    St. Augustine Basilica founded in 1606
    All hostels in the city have the same layout: covered entrance & central garden surrounded by roomsThey look more charming from the ouside than inside. (No toilet seat!)Plenty of activity in the townThe town is located along the Magdalena RiverThese guys just made a run to their local Home Depot. :)We find soccer fields everywhere we go. But no players! :(1Awaiting breakfast at the river's edge

    26. Colombia - Mompox

    19 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Mompox is a tiny town along the Magdalena River where we stayed one night, mostly because it was on the route to our eventual destination (Ecuador), and we had to stop somewhere. The town is known for its colonial culture, so we toodled around for 2 hours or so before moving on. A few pix attached.

    The hostel where we stayed was run by a young man named Jesus, who fled from Venezuela to find work to support a child and her mother who are still there. I'm sure most of you know the dreadful plight that the Venezuelan people are dealing with, which includes corrupt government, crumbling infrastructure, no work, no food in the stores, and rampant inflation. Although my Spanish is improving, we chatted mostly by using the Google translation app, which he was not familiar with. I helped him find and download it to his phone. He said he will use it to learn English and try to find a way to make it to the US so he can make some money.
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    Diane Oswald

    PodróżnikAwaiting breakfast at the river's edgeI’m green with envy. Looks very relaxing and laid back.

    23.09.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 30
    • sobota, 21 września 2019 12:00
    • 🌧 66 °F
    • Wysokość: 8 517 ft
    • KolumbiaGranada4°38’57” N  74°3’42” W

    27. Bucaramanga to Medellin

    21 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    We left Mompox (which took us about 9 hours to get to), for another 8 hour drive to Bucaramanga, which, although a fairly large city, was once again just a stepping stone for us.

    The interesting parts of these long travel days really centered around the travel itself. This part of Colombia is very mountainous, with nothing but one-lane switchback roads filled with buses, 18-wheelers, and motorcycles. (My guess is that 65% of the population travel by motorcycle here). Passing a semi (going 12 mph up a one-lane winding road that has double yellow lines and "no passing" signs) is truly an art form here. You have to do it, or you'll never reach your destination. Because the roads are very sharp s-curves, visibility is limited and passing is a challenge. But everyone participates in helping others pass, whether it be the semi you are trying to pass (who puts his left blinker on to let you know he has enough visibility around the blind curve to see it is safe), or the motorcyclists, who will pass a truck ahead of you, and then reach back and wave to you if the road is clear. The other passing method, which is often necessary, is pulling out halfway into the oncoming traffic lane to assess the situation, and putting pedal to the metal if the coast is clear. That usually requires about a half dozen failed attempts before you make it. The whole process is part entertaining, part stress, and after several days of it, part "just another day's commute".

    The views, however, from Bucaramenga to our next destination, Medellin (famous for being the home of the infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar), were pretty spectacular, at least in my opinion. Some pix attached here.
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 31
    • niedziela, 22 września 2019 12:00
    • 🌧 63 °F
    • Wysokość: 8 369 ft
    • KolumbiaPáramo4°40’8” N  74°6’51” W
    Entering the gondola that takes you to the park. Just like skiing!Views of the city as we ascendAt the entrance to the park, there was a tent filled with booths of vendors selling food & trinketsHow many of these foods can you identify?A guy ahead of me recommended the chorizo, so I'm giving it a go. Its topped with potato & patacon

    28. Colombia - Medellin

    22 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    Medellin, at almost 5000 feet above sea level, is know as the City of Eternal Spring for its temperate weather, though it was pretty hot while we were there. It is the 2nd largest city in Colombia after Bogota.

    During our short stay here, we spent a day at Parque Arvi, which is an ecological nature preserve located at the top of the Metrocable System that runs up the slopes of the eastern side of the city. The park is pretty with nice walking trails, but for me, most of the fun included navigating the public transportation system, and the incredible city views from the metrocable (gondola) that takes you to the park.
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 31
    • niedziela, 22 września 2019 16:00
    • ⛅ 88 °F
    • Wysokość: 56 ft
    • KolumbiaMompos9°14’24” N  74°25’18” W
    In Arvi park
    1On the way back. Pic from the gondola. A lot of super low-end housing.It surprised me that the lower end housing was higher up the mountain, with better views of the cityOK, we made it back down from Arvi to Acevedo. But this map has no streets. Where is our hotel?We figured it out, and joined the masses on the subway1The last (and most important) stop of the day!View from the hotel

    29. Colombia - Medellin 2

    22 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    A few more pix. This travel app limits # of pix per post

    Janice Hechinger

    PodróżnikIt looks beautiful

    27.09.2019Odpowiedz
    Chris Hottinger

    PodróżnikThe last (and most important) stop of the day!Hahaha...good advertisement!

    02.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 32
    • poniedziałek, 23 września 2019 21:00
    • ⛅ 57 °F
    • Wysokość: 5 981 ft
    • KolumbiaRío Vista2°28’39” N  76°34’30” W
    One of the many city plazas. The birds are fearless here!
    Local university gives the city a cool youthful vibeUniverstiy students supporting their candidateTypical street vendor sceneCan you believe people would actually eat this? So grossViva Colombia!La Bruja - the WitchFrom the hotel

    30. Colombia - Bogota

    23 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    The capital of Colombia is a sprawling city of 8 million+, and is predictably the political and economic hub of the country. It was built "out" instead of "up", with a resulting unimpressive skyline. We strolled through the streets observing a diverse population of students, businessmen, artists, street vendors and other tourists. Czytaj więcej

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 33
    • wtorek, 24 września 2019 11:00
    • ⛅ 64 °F
    • Wysokość: 8 648 ft
    • KolumbiaMuseo del Oro4°36’6” N  74°4’18” W
    1Lunch at the museum restaurant was delicious

    31. Colombia - Bogota - Museo del Oro

    24 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Museo del Oro is supposed to be the best gold museum in the world. I thought it would be about gold as a source of wealth, but it was more about gold as a raw material for creating objects.

    There was a cool video that showed you how nuggets of gold are melted and turned into objects. Outside of that, this wasn't really my thing. But Craig, who has been working with gold all his life as a jewelry manufacturer, thought it was wonderful. He was aghast that I considered not putting it in the blog. So Craig, this step is for you.

    Oh, btw, if you ever get to Bogota, you must go to the museum's restaurant. The food was excellent and prices very reasonable.
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    Mike Heap

    PodróżnikLunch at the museum restaurant was deliciousYum yum!

    28.09.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 34
    • środa, 25 września 2019 18:00
    • ☁️ 63 °F
    • Wysokość: 5 955 ft
    • KolumbiaRío Vista2°28’38” N  76°34’30” W
    La Plata is very small. Not much to see. Here is a street scene...
    ...here is the town square......here is a river running thru the town. That's pretty much it.We did stay at a cute, well-maintained hotelAs you might know, there is a strong Catholic presence here. This hotel has its own chapelView from our roomThe people work hard in these small villages. Here - fixing fence posts

    32. Colombia - La Plata

    25 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    On the way to the Ecuador border...

    Diane Oswald

    PodróżnikMissing you. Hope you’re having a fabulous time (((Hugs)))

    27.09.2019Odpowiedz
    Karen Hechinger

    PodróżnikThank you sissy-poo! Missing you too!!!

    02.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 35
    • czwartek, 26 września 2019 12:00
    • ⛅ 79 °F
    • Wysokość: 4 751 ft
    • KolumbiaSanta Helena2°14’36” N  75°59’12” W
    46km (28.5 miles) will take over 2 hours? This is gonna be a very bad road...2

    33. Colombia - The Andes

    26 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    This was the 4th day out of the last 6 that we would be in the car for 6-9 hours, and I was starting to get a little cranky. But Colombia is a big country, we knew this, and you've got to drive through it to get to the Ecuadorian border.

    Our ride from La Plata to Popayan required us to cross the Andes. The majority of our travel was on jutted, rocky, gravely dirt roads, filled with monster potholes. The roads were narrow with almost no traffic, but our pace was about 10-15 mph because of road quality. A tough and somewhat physically uncomfortable ride.

    But the scenery was nothing short of spectacular.

    The Andes is the longest continental mountain range in the world, running 4300 miles from Venezuela down the western side of South America through Argentina. Its highest elevation peak is 22,838 feet (located in Argentina), second only to the Himalayas. Something else I learned: The peak of Mt Chimborazo in Ecuador (part of the Andes), is actually the furthest point from the earth's surface to its core, due to the "equatorial bulge". So, Mt. Everest, put that in your pipe and smoke it!

    In the end, the ruggedness of our drive was completely offset by the stunning beauty of the environment through which we were truly privileged to travel. It was overpowering in its unspoiled, breathtaking magnificence.
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    Chris Hottinger

    PodróżnikGreat vids and pics. How fast are you typically able to go on those bumpy dirt roads over the Andes? Beautiful sceanery!

    02.10.2019Odpowiedz
    Karen Hechinger

    PodróżnikHey Chris! Bumpy doesn't describe it! In certain areas, Craig was zigzagging to avoid potholes as if he were skiing. Sometimes as slow as 10 mph

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 35
    • czwartek, 26 września 2019 17:28
    • ⛅ 81 °F
    • Wysokość: 3 159 ft
    • KolumbiaFlorencia3°34’31” N  76°21’42” W
    Changing from tropical to desert

    34. Colombia - The Andes 2

    26 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    More pix

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 37
    • sobota, 28 września 2019 12:00
    • ⛅ 63 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 511 ft
    • KolumbiaIpiales0°49’31” N  77°38’25” W
    We've seen Venezuelans walking the roads thruout the trip. Looks like these guys caught a ride
    We've gotten used to this sign - Pay. Many tolls of $2-4 along the wayThe mountain are now intermittently green and brown. Looks like we're in Las Vegas!

    35. Colombia - The Andes 3

    28 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 38
    • niedziela, 29 września 2019 10:40
    • ⛅ 59 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 521 ft
    • KolumbiaIpiales0°49’30” N  77°38’24” W

    36. Border Crossing - BORDER CLOSED

    29 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We arrived in the Colombia border town of Ipiales last night. We planned to tour the town today (Sunday), and hit the border crossing to Ecuador, 5 miles away, first thing tomorrow.

    We have since learned that the border is closed due to protestor activity, and has been for a few days. There is limited info on when it will open again; the protestors are apparently scheduled to enter discussion with the gov't Monday. Word is, it may open Wednesday. It also may not. To add to the mix, the Pan American Highway from the Ipiales border to the capital city of Quito Ecuador (about 4 hours) is filled with political activist based road closures.

    The other border crossing opportunity through San Miguel is 10 hours away, and while we would dread the drive, partially retracing our steps (which included a construction based delay, stopped dead, of over an hour yesterday - ugh), we're not entirely sure that that border is open either. In addition, the roads leading to that crossing are labeled with a US travel advisory level of 4 (do not travel here).

    "Official" information is impossible to obtain. Craig is gathering information from fellow Overlanders through an Overlanders blog. We are also in touch with the Frenchman with whom we shared the shipping container for the car from Panama to Colombia. He is in the exact same situation as us, except he has a fellow Traveller who needs to catch a flight back to France from Quito. (Not sure that's gonna happen). There's another guy whose Colombian visa is expiring. If he can't get out of Colombia before that, good luck crossing the border afterwards. He'll have a weeks worth of administrative paperwork and fines to deal with.

    Do we stay in Ipiales, and hope that the situation with the protestors resolves itself, and that the border opens in the next few days, as opposed to the next few weeks? In which case we can get to Quito in 5+ hours.

    Or do we travel the "travel advisory 4" dirt & rock roads leading to and from the San Miguel border crossing, adding 2 days to our journey?

    As they say in the entertainment world - STAY TUNED!
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    Hi Karen. My coworker from Equador says not to miss the town of Banos - 3 hrs. from the capitol of Quito. Well worth the side trip!

    30.09.2019Odpowiedz
    Karen Hechinger

    PodróżnikThanks for the tip Karen! We'll check our itinerary to see if we can get there.

    01.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 38
    • niedziela, 29 września 2019 11:00
    • ⛅ 63 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 154 ft
    • KolumbiaLas Lajas0°48’42” N  77°35’30” W
    Santorio Nuestra Senora de Las Lajas
    How do you get equipment down there to build this?Walls leading to the church are filled with captions of gratitudeLiterally - Action of thanks to the virgin of las lajas for miracles received"Hail full of Grace"In the basement - ConfessionalIn the basement - a separate place to pray after confession

    37. Colombia - Ipiales

    29 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Ipiales has 2 claims to fame: it is the last town before the most popular border crossing into Ecuador, and it is the home of Santorio Nuestra Senora de Las Lajas – Sanctuary of Our Lady of the (Slabs) Rocks. We took time out from our research and discussions on how to deal with the border closure issue to visit the single tourist attraction the city had to offer.

    The Sanctuary was built as a shrine to the purported miraculous appearance of the Virgin Mary to a traveler and her daughter who were seeking refuge among the rocks during a nasty storm in 1754. Its a popular pilgrimage destination, and there have been subsequent reports of miraculous healing at the site. The architecture of the Sanctuary, which sits on a 130 ft bridge over the Guaitara River is pretty cool.
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 39
    • poniedziałek, 30 września 2019 06:00
    • ☁️ 70 °F
    • Wysokość: 833 ft
    • KolumbiaTres de Mayo Airport0°29’43” N  76°30’11” W
    They sometimes substitute tree poles in lieu of guard railsThere were many beautiful waterfalls......but that often resulted in partially washed out roads. We're lucky it wasn't raining1

    38. Trampolin de la Muerte

    30 września 2019, Kolumbia ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Well, our Frenchman friend took off from Ipiales to San Miguel (the other border crossing, 10 hours away) a day before us. Based on his feedback, we decided to leave Ipiales and follow in his footsteps. (Another long day in the car – sigh.)

    The road to San Miguel is known as “Trampolin de la Muerte”. Can you translate? Dangerousroads.org labels this road as one of the most dangerous roads in the world. Its also known as “Adios mi Vida”, or “Trampolin del Diablo”. Really? Not exactly a glowing endorsement, but, in the spirit of “adventure travel”, I’m in. Vamanos!

    I’m posting some pics/videos that I’m not sure do real justice to how scary the road feels. The road is just a narrow lane of rocky, rutted dirt and dust, except for the waterfalls that came across the road to find their next path down the mountain. There were times where, with no shoulder and a guard rail that was washed away in the rushing waters of a previous storm, I looked down over a precipice to a several hundred foot straight drop. That’s my fate I thought, should Craig have a leg cramp or something.

    I’m also copying and pasting Dangerousroads.org’s description of the road, below.

    P.S. We made it to San Miguel in one piece. Well done Grego!

    Dangerousroads.org:
    It’s not suitable for public transport or heavy, and was built in 1930 to transport soldiers during the war between Colombia and Peru, and so far has been directly responsible for ending hundreds of lives. Different sources record more than 500 people dead in 2011 and in 1989 about 300 people died in a terrible collapse.

    This track can get very muddy and slippery after rain making it challenging to get through. During and after a storm the road may be impassable, even with a four-wheel-drive vehicle. It’s 70 kms of pure wilderness, challenging road and very light traffic. A no man’s land, a place to connect with nature where you can find solitude and enjoy some of the best landscapes of an already very beautiful country.

    This 70-odd km of narrow gravel road with steep precipices is a real challenging road and a true test of your vehicle and your stamina because the road abounds in twists and turns with wheels sometimes hanging above the precipice. The road includes cliffs, precipices and more than 100 hairpins. The road was built in 1930 and zigzags the Andean mountain range.
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    Chris Hottinger

    PodróżnikWow! That was a gnarly piece of roadwork. I’d seen that on a YouTube vid after a storm and thought no one in their right mind would ever do that. Great job and a true adventure. Glad you made it up and over!

    02.10.2019Odpowiedz
    Yuki Yang

    PodróżnikWell done and glad to hear you made it over! What an adventure.

    04.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 40
    • wtorek, 1 października 2019 14:00
    • ⛅ 72 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 213 ft
    • EkwadorLa Alameda0°12’51” S  78°30’6” W
    Finally made it!
    A list of things provided for refugees, mostly sanitation and housing relatedTemporary housing for refugeesGives newfound respect for the phrase "nothing but the shirts on their backs"Bridge to the small city of Coca. (No question about what Coca refers to)Very run down housing here. One view from our hotel......and another2Found a local indoor soccer game to watch, right behind the hotel

    39. Border Crossing - Colombia 2 Ecuador

    1 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Success! We reached the border crossing Tuesday, and found it to be the easiest, most organized border crossing yet. Everything in one building (including exporting the car from Colombia & importing it to Ecuador, then checking ourselves out of Colombia and into Ecuador). Would have taken less than an hour, except that they were out to lunch when we arrived. (No, that's not a joke.)

    The refugee crisis (especially with Venezuelans) was reflected by the temporary housing constructed for those with either no passports, or no Visas. There were refugees and their sparse belongings scattered around the building. They teach their children to approach Americans and Europeans and ask for money. We were chatting with an 8 year old, and about to make our donation when military personnel chased him away.

    After crossing the border, we headed to the small town of Coca. Not much in the town, except its proximity to the Amazon.
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    Paul Roberti

    PodróżnikFound a local indoor soccer game to watch, right behind the hotelAwesome! Were they any good?

    04.10.2019Odpowiedz
    Karen Hechinger

    PodróżnikFound a local indoor soccer game to watch, right behind the hotelThey were really good. Awesome ball control and footwork

    07.12.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 42
    • czwartek, 3 października 2019 10:00
    • 🌧 70 °F
    • Wysokość: 797 ft
    • EkwadorFrancisco De Orellana Airport0°27’23” S  76°59’40” W
    Here's the boat that took us down the Napo River (it feeds the Amazon River)to a Kichwa Tribe familyUh oh - we haven't started and we're bailing water out of the boat already?We were welcomed here - cooking on the far side, eating on the near sideWe learned about medicinal uses of various plantsThe infamous COCA plantThis one is used to hypnotize you and have you do things that you later don't remember doingGetting our faces painted. The symbols are important identifiers to the tribeApparently, I'm a princess!None of them wear shoes

    40. Ecuador - Amazon - Kichwa Tribe

    3 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    The Amazon Rainforest is over 2 million square miles stretched out over 9 countries. Since we crossed the border much closer to the Amazon than in our original plan, we decided to grab a tour now.

    We found a 12 hour tour that included 2 parts: the first part with one of the indigenous tribes still living in the jungle, and the second trekking and canoeing through the jungle. Czytaj więcej

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    Diane Oswald

    PodróżnikThat is so awesome!!

    07.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 42
    • czwartek, 3 października 2019 11:19
    • ⛅ 64 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 213 ft
    • EkwadorLa Alameda0°12’51” S  78°30’6” W
    The idea is to blow the arrow out of the pipe and into the little bird in front of the banana leaves
    Excellent form Grego!aaaaaaaand..."Action!"Spear throwing was much harder. I'd starve if this was my source of foodThe wash basin before lunchFish, yucca & banana, grilled in the banana leafNila is the artistic one in the family, and makes jewelry and other souvenirs to sellOur new Kichwa friends. Thank you for a wonderful, delicious and educational experience!

    41. Amazon - Kichwa Tribe 2

    3 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    After the education, we played some games, ate lunch, and said goodbye to our new friends.

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 42
    • czwartek, 3 października 2019 14:42
    • ⛅ 64 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 213 ft
    • EkwadorLa Alameda0°12’51” S  78°30’6” W
    Trekking through the jungle
    Our main guide was Henry. He was pretty cute.The original boardwalk was busted up. The substitute planks we're fine - if you had good balance!Blue butterfly! Really big.So glad I didn't step on thisQuiet...Peaceful glide through the jungle to the lake aheadPiranha fishing - Got one!Henry wasn't afraid to stick his fingers in the piranha's mouth. This one's a baby.

    42. Amazon - The Jungle

    3 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    After our Kichwa visit, we took our boat to the jungle entrance. We walked along some very sketchy boardwalk planks to a canoe, and paddled through the jungle waters from there. We did see some wildlife, various birds, very large butterflies, howler monkeys, but didn't have a lot of success getting pix.

    The jungle tour was fun anyway. It was very quiet, except for those typical jungle noises, which are pretty cool. We amused ourselves by going piranha fishing before heading back. Caught a few too!
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 44
    • sobota, 5 października 2019 14:41
    • ⛅ 64 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 213 ft
    • EkwadorLa Alameda0°12’51” S  78°30’6” W
    More beautiful scenery
    This is a first for us down here - snow-capped mountainsNot sure whats going on here - you can put your own caption on this oneComing into QuitoOur hotel is in near Mariscala - some nice architecture hereArtists in the local park. These are textured. I would buy one if I could transport itHaving fun in the park...ouch!

    43. Ecuador - Heading to Quito

    5 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Our jungle trip out of Coca was interrupted by a phone call to our guide alerting him to political unrest in the country and the blockades of roads. When we arrived back to Coca, we found we were unable to leave due to transportation industry strikes and roadblocks.

    Fortunately this detained us only one day, and we headed off to the capital, Quito.
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 45
    • niedziela, 6 października 2019 10:41
    • ⛅ 63 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 213 ft
    • EkwadorLa Alameda0°12’51” S  78°30’6” W
    La Basilica Voto de Nacional - its enormousOne of the plazas was gated off due to mild political unrest. Little did we know what lay aheadThe statue on the hill looms impressively over the cityIndigenous entertainersThis is one of the songs that can bring you to tears, especially when it is played so beautifullyThe "comida typical" is cheap, awful, and unhealthy. This part of "budget travel" I can do without.Getting ready for what's to come

    44. Ecuador - Quito's Old Town

    6 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Quito's Old Town (Centro Historico) is much like the other historical towns we've seen before, with beautiful architecture, many stunning churches, charming plazas/parks, street artists and entertainers, and lots of souvenir and food vendors. Czytaj więcej

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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 45
    • niedziela, 6 października 2019 11:41
    • ⛅ 66 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 213 ft
    • EkwadorLa Alameda0°12’51” S  78°30’6” W
    Path to Rucu Pichincha
    Views on the way up the gondolaQuito sprawls out in front of usLet's go!Some of the path was easy. Open, with great views. But the altitude gets to you quicklyCan you read the words under 47? "Paso de la muerte" - Pass of death. Fun!

    45. Ecuador-Quito - Rucu Pichincha Hike

    6 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Because of the political unrest in Quito, we considered fleeing to the coast, but were told that the roads were already blocked (see post 46). So we decided to stick with our itinerary and head up to do the Rucu Pichincha hike.

    Rucu Pichincha is a volcano rising to the height of 15,695 feet, and as such, is a big attraction for those wishing to experience the altitude. The gondola (TeleferiQo) took us to the base where we had amazing views of Quito.

    The hike was fun. I was out of breath and slightly nauseous several times - probably a reflection of both the altitude as well as a poor workout schedule during this trip. We made it to 14, 735 feet before dark clouds and the time of day convinced us to return.
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 45
    • niedziela, 6 października 2019 18:41
    • 🌧 54 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 213 ft
    • EkwadorLa Alameda0°12’51” S  78°30’6” W
    Roadblocks everywhereOur hotel entrance is secure

    46. Ecuador - Quito - Political Unrest

    6 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    The road blockades that had delayed us leaving Coca for Quito had been just the beginning of a nationwise protest that had picked up momentum over the last few days.

    Earlier in the month, the Gov't had announced an end to fuel subsidies that caused a dramatic increase in gas prices. The transportation industry went on strike for a day, and their cause was supported by the indigenous people (60% of the population of Ecuador), who insisted that the gov't reverse the subsidy elimination. (BTW - the elimination of subsidies was part of a deal with the IMF to obtain a $4B loan)

    Over the last few days, the indigenous have converged on Quito, marching, waving flags, blowing horns, and engaging in violent clashes with the policia and military. Gov't buildings have been barricaded and fortified with police presence, but the gov't has since fled the city, moving to Guayaquil.

    We, on the other hand, are stuck here. There's no way to get around the roadblocks. So we wait, and watch. While there is much activity in the area we are staying in, we are safe in our hotel, and are judicious when ranging outside.
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    Mike Heap

    PodróżnikGuess I don’t have to tell you this...be careful.

    10.10.2019Odpowiedz
    Karen Hechinger

    PodróżnikThanks Mike - were on it for sure.

    10.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 49
    • czwartek, 10 października 2019 10:00
    • ⛅ 63 °F
    • Wysokość: 9 199 ft
    • EkwadorParque El Ejido0°12’24” S  78°29’51” W
    Plenty of police presence around.
    Our room at the Filatelia Hotel. Way too many hours spent here, waiting, but at least we're safeProtestors storming the Hilton, apparently thinking there were some govt personnel there1Craig (my boyscout) is prepared for emergencies with MREs, in case it's not safe to go out for food

    47. Ecuador-Quito - Riots Continue

    10 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We remain stuck in Quito as violent protests and extensive roadblocks continue. Full description from the NYT:

    Seven Days of Unrest and Counting: Thousands Stream Into Ecuador’s Capital

    QUITO, Ecuador — Thousands of protesters streamed into downtown Quito on Wednesday, the seventh day of violent unrest that has brought the country to a virtual standstill, has led to the arrest of hundreds and has threatened the government’s stability.

    President Lenín Moreno of Ecuador arrived in Quito, the capital, on Wednesday afternoon to meet with leaders of the protest movement, which was ignited by the government’s decision last week to eliminate a popular fuel subsidy program. Protesters also staged anti-government rallies in cities nationwide, often barricading roads.
    The demonstrations have been so fierce that Mr. Moreno this week moved the seat of government from Quito to the coastal city of Guayaquil, more than 150 miles away, the first time in over 100 years that it had been moved from the capital.

    More than 700 people have been arrested nationwide over the past week of protests. On Wednesday, the police in Quito used tear gas to break up the crowds, which included members of labor unions and indigenous groups, and some protesters threw Molotov cocktails.

    The Red Cross announced it would suspend operations and assistance because it was unable to guarantee the security of its staffers.

    The government has pushed back as well. In Guayaquil, the authorities themselves blocked a major bridge to frustrate demonstrators, and a curfew imposed this week barred people from areas around government buildings and other strategic locations after 5 p.m.

    The demonstrations were set off by Mr. Moreno’s decision to eliminate fuel subsidies as part of an austerity plan required under an agreement with the International Monetary Fund to help Ecuador stabilize its finances.

    The fuel subsidy cut, which will lead to higher gas and consumer prices, enraged many Ecuadorians who have endured years of economic malaise.

    Transportation unions were among the first to call for a national strike, and students, workers and indigenous organizations soon joined. The union workers called off their strike when they reached a fare-hike agreement with the government. Yet other workers, indigenous groups and students — along with some political rivals of Mr. Moreno — have continued to protest in large numbers.

    The indigenous movement has become a strong political force in Ecuador since the early 1990s, when protesters first marched to Quito, demanding legal recognition of their property over lands they regards as their ancestral property.

    In a televised interview on Tuesday, Mr. Moreno said he would not consider leaving office.
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    Mike Heap

    PodróżnikCraig (my boyscout) is prepared for emergencies with MREs, in case it's not safe to go out for foodYum, yum!

    10.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 50
    • piątek, 11 października 2019 05:00
    • ☁️ 68 °F
    • Wysokość: 10 ft
    • EkwadorMontañita1°49’11” S  80°45’25” W
    The statue at the entrance to Montanita leaves no question as to what this town is all about
    The central part of town has about 6 blocks of street vendorsMost important shop on townGrabbing a bite and a beer at our hotelSome of the locals fish with nets hereYou can get by really cheap here (yes, this is in USD)1Lots of loose dogs around. If only they understood the sign!

    48. We made a run for it!

    11 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Cooped up in our room in Quito for much of the day Tues-Thurs, we spotted an opportunity to escape on Friday after carefully monitoring the news and communicating with other travellers stuck in Quito through the Pan American Highway blog.

    With only one roadblock showing on our route, we hit the road before daybreak on Friday and headed west. The roadblock was gone when we got there, and we put in 10 hours in to get to the coast and the beach town of Montanita.

    Our plan is to get out to Galapagos from Guayaquil airport. Most of the protests that still continue are focused in the central past of the country, so we are hopeful about our travel plans.

    In the meantime, here are some pix from Montanita.
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    Mike Heap

    PodróżnikThank goodness! Pleased to see you’re safe.

    12.10.2019Odpowiedz
    Paul Zahler

    PodróżnikHope

    13.10.2019Odpowiedz
    Paul Zahler

    PodróżnikHopefully you’ve got the

    13.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 54
    • wtorek, 15 października 2019 12:00
    • ⛅ 79 °F
    • Wysokość: 43 ft
    • EkwadorJosé Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport2°8’56” S  79°53’3” W
    San Cristobal Pier1The water is a such a beautiful colorSea lions scattered everywhereThe welcoming committee!There's something down there

    49. Galapagos 1 - San Cristobal

    15 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    The Galapagos archipelago is a National Park that is comprised of 13 volcanic islands and 16 islets located 600+ miles west of mainland Ecuador. Only 4 of the islands are inhabited (by people), with a population of 30,000.

    We started our trip in Isla San Cristobal, the capital of the islands.
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    Janice Hechinger

    PodróżnikThe water is a such a beautiful colorJust like New York!!!!!!!

    21.10.2019Odpowiedz
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  • Karen HechingerCentral/South America 2019Podróżnik
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    • Dzień 54
    • wtorek, 15 października 2019 14:00
    • ⛅ 75 °F
    • Wysokość: Poziom morza
    • EkwadorPuerto Chino0°55’36” S  89°25’48” W
    Is it time to get up already?
    "You eyeballin' me, boy?"1Yoga, anyone?......maybe later

    50. Galapagos 2 - Sea Lions

    15 października 2019, Ekwador ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    There are about 25,000 sea lions in Galapagos, the largest of which can grow to over 8 feet. They can live to be 20 years old. Unlike many other species, the biggest threat to them is not humans, but the decline in fish (food) available to them after El Nino.

    As you can see from the videos, they are not intimidated by humans, and are very playful. They sprawl out unceremoniously on beaches, rocks and docks for naps that help them replenish their oxygen supply.

    So fun to watch them!
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    Mike Heap

    PodróżnikAww

    19.10.2019Odpowiedz
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