Hokitika to Pancake Rocks

24 June - Sloggy day on the highway from Hokitika through Greymouth and on to Rapahoe, with more traffic than we’re used to, but sunny. Highlights: a Weka joining us for lunch, a wee sit on the pebbly seashore, and a great wild camp spot near Point Elizabeth overlooking the bay with the sun setting and the flax rustling in the breeze.

25 June - Weka poked its head under the porch tent flap to wish us good morning. The air was balmy and humid, different to the cold bite we’ve been used to, the foliage more tropical and lush. High limestone cliffs and karst sea stacks accompanied us all along the coastal road. Amanda was high all morning, loving having the sea immediately to our left, giving up new views as the road rose, or in reach of turquoise grey waves as it dropped low. Lilz was struggling more today, finding it difficult to find his rhythm and battered by the hills, squally rain and headwinds. A grumpy day for him! The conditions eventually ground Amanda down too and we were both very glad to reach Pancake Rocks.

The walk was spectacular, looking over the sculpted limestone rock stacks with vast coastal views. The pancake rocks are made up of thin seams of mudstone between harder limestone layers. The mudstone is more vulnerable to weathering and erosion, creating the banded appearance.

Stayed in a motel in Punakaiki village to shelter from the storm coming in: 46mph winds and heavy rain. Night was very wild: extremely glad to be indoors.

26 June - Went up to the seafront and was exhilarated by the energy of the stormy waves and crashing white surf. Rested up in our cabin as the rain came down, planning the route ahead for the next week. In the afternoon we went across the road to Punakaiki cavern. Following the wooden stairway up into the darkness we explored the 130m of passages and subtle stalactites. Turned off our head torches at points, surrounded by utter darkness. Back in our cabin we felt safe and homey as we curled up in bed to watch Dept Q on Netflix (it was comforting seeing Edinburgh on screen!)

27 June - Taking our friend’s recommendation (thanks again Angus!) to explore the Paparoa Track, we took our (unladen!) bikes to meander through nikau palms and tree ferns alongside the Pororari river up the limestone gorge. We very much enjoyed seeing the nikau, the only native palm tree in Aotearoa. They are slow growers, taking 40-50 years to form a trunk and 200 years to reach 10m tall. Looking at the map we thought we’d do the Punakaiki loop, starting with the Paparoa Track and then joining the Waikori Road to take us back to the main road further south. The track at first was ok but then became unsuitable for bikes, and we found ourselves doing quite a bit of hike-a-bike. The route also took us up and over a ridge, so not so much of a rest day! Wonderful however being amongst all the green undergrowth and under the forest canopy!Leggi altro