Big Rambling Ride

Making for the West Coast Region and Haast, through the Haast Pass, we left Wanaka using a shared bike path, taking us out of town and then onto another part of the Clutha River Track, joining the Hāwea River Track, all the way to Lake Hāwea. It was a super nice off-
road track along the fast clear and blue flowing river and we found a nice spot to eat our packed lunch (out of NZ Tupperware, some of you will be pleased to know). Back on tarmac after a stop at the Hāwea Store & Kitchen, sitting outside in the afternoon sun, the route then followed State Highway 6.

Camp for the night was the Department of Conservation (DoC) ground at Kidds Bush, along the Hunter Valley on the North side of the large lake formed by the Hāwea Dam. After another ~29Km and a few hills, of course. Stunning views along the lake and quiet highway made for a nice cycle (other than the pushing up the few steep inclines). Pulling off the highway, that last bit along the Hunter Valley road was dirt, newly laid and quite ‘clarty’ - we were slow and the surface and tired legs meant we dragged ourselves into the small camp ground with porta-toilets, a covered picnic bench and sink as dusk hit. A very cold, damp and dank evening. The beautiful Milky Way and Southern Cross, overhead - a companion for several of our camps. A visit from a possum in the early hours with its head under the tent apron sniffing around our bagged food was a surprise. It appeared bold as brass, unconcerned by my
‘Shooing’. Also evident by lots of possum pee all over the sinks. Possum party maybe?
Early start, next morning and brekky of gruel, eaten cold (we call it gruel - but it’s a nice mix of oats, granola, apple juice, and mixed berry puree).

Rejoining Highway 6, initially alongside Lake Wanaka which again provided some epic panoramas. A welcome stop at the Makarora Country Cafe & Camp for a ‘nose bag’ (second breakfast and brew). A pie, coffee and a tray bake guzzled by an open fire, served by the lovely owner and under the watchful eye of the resident cafe dog, Tuck, who gave us the big eyes but was under strict instruction from his human that human food was not good for him.

Onward - following the Makarora River to DoC Cameron Flat campsite. We arrived with light and quickly parked the bikes at the sheltered kitchen area and fired across the road to walk the 3km return track to the Blue Pools, through mature beech forest to the swing bridge and viewpoint for the clear blue water. And it really was beautifully blue!! The blue water is a result of light refraction on the clear snow-fed icy cold water and we could see large trout languishing in the current below.

Back to the bikes as the sun set with light now tickling the mountain tops and temperature dropping, with cold hands, hard to unpack and set up camp. We made a noodles and veg tea (hot food is such a boost).

Why…when it is cold and you are in your tent and have taken an age to get set and you are warm and cosy, do you need to get up to pee? Even though you have been at least twice, and one of those a ‘safety pee’.?!

Awoke to a cold morning. Next section was to cycle the Haast Pass, our 2nd Pass but at a lower elevation.
Crossing from Otago to the West Coast Region there was a very steep descent from the summit (glad we rode East-West and not the other way!) that was claustrophobic as the road squeezed between the mountain folds and river. We viewed several waterfalls along our route with wonderful names including Fantail Falls, Thunder Creek Falls and Roaring Billy.

The landscape felt Jurassic and then majestic full-on LOTR as the glacial valley opened up, with the braided river bed a mile wide, coloured a rocky grey and a sight to see making a vast furrow that meets the Tasman Sea.

The last 10 miles was tough but flat as we made for our overnight. We booked a motel stop in Haast as a treat after the camping and pass. Our ‘treats’ always end up adminy with drying of wet gear and clothes, washing our pots in hot water, washing smalls, washing ourselves, maxing WiFi use (Penguin catchup!) and charging all our electricals. We had dinner in the motel pub which served great hearty food. Tomorrow we start the next section of the journey, North along the West Coast.Read more