Tomakin to Huskisson

We undulated our way up the coast, stopping for short breaks at Malau Bay, Surf Beach, and Batemans Bay. Whilst we ate our sandwiches we spoke to a holidaying retired couple. Being the closest seaside town to Canberra Batesmans Bay is a popular holiday destination for the capital. This couple were here for two days from Wagga Wagga - a six-hour drive away - to see the sea again after two years. He used to be a Royal guard and showed us photos of him in uniform 💂and standing behind the queen.

After crossing the bridge we were on the highway for 14 miles before turning off on Mt Agony road into Murramarang National Park. Hearts lifted immediately leaving the highway and we were greeted by a mob of eastern grey kangaroos. The woods were beautiful - tall white spotted gums with a lush dark green understorey of burrawang palms and dainty yellow and purple flowers. We were cycling isolated off-road tracks for ten miles, the condition of which were a bit dubious: we needed to ford a stream, manoeuvre the bikes over a fallen tree, and navigate numerous potholes and water runnings.

After being in the wilds it felt surreal emerging from the woods into remote suburbia - houses and tarmac and lawns. Was beautifully warm and we glided the last few miles - the 25 hills behind us - to Pretty Beach campground.

It was busy! School holidays. Campsites had car roof tents, gazebos, awnings, lots of camping gear and apparatus. At the beach all the campground sounds were far away and we had the place to ourselves. And the beach is indeed very pretty. The rocks a swirling mix of red, peach, ochre, and shaped as if sea spray had frozen into rock. The sky turned a pearly pink, the waves were the deepest dark teal and the surf and spray crashed loudly with such energy it revitalised everything within me. We sat a while, curled into each other, marvelling at where we were.

We cooked with bold possums (many with joeys in pouches or clinging to their backs) scavenging for food. A hand sized huntsman spider sat next to Lilz’s bike.

It’s consistently warm now, and the morning was already 21 degrees. Other parts of the country are pretty hot, with a total fire ban in parts of Queensland. Today was great - one big main 850ft hill to avoid the highway and it was quiet, leafy and enabled us to chat all the way up. The views from the top were spectacular and far reaching looking out over endless trees all the way to the coast in one direction and across to notable Pigeon House mountain on the other. Freewheeling down the other side was glorious: nearly all the way to Milton.

A surprise of a little town it had turned pink to raise awareness of breast cancer with hanging bras, crocheted decorated trees, and models of women dotted about town. The town itself was charming, with little galleries, vintage and boutique shops, bakeries and cafes.

At 30 degrees the afternoon was pretty warm and had little shade cycling the last miles to Lake Conjola campground, down a side road off the highway. The campground was quiet and peaceful, with kangaroos hopping about munching grass.

On our way to Huskisson we enjoyed the dirt road through Conjola NP to avoid the highway, accompanied by large helicopter dragonflies. We had set off early to avoid the forecasted afternoon rain and as we arrived in Huskisson the sky was dark and brooding.

We stayed in Huskisson with Stig and Kerry (and Floyd their dog) in their beautiful home. They are Warmshower hosts and we’d contacted them a few days before on the online platform to see if they were available to host us. Warmshowers connects touring cyclists with hosts who offer a free hot shower, a place to sleep, and cultural exchange. Similar to Couchsurfing but specifically for bike tourers, the community operates on reciprocal hospitality - we intend to be hosts once we’re back in Edinburgh.

Stig is Danish, but has lived in Australia for the last three decades after meeting Kerry whilst travelling in the country. We both share a love of Australian magpies. He is retired from working at the local Botanical Gardens. Kerry advocates for women suffering domestic abuse and people coming out of prison.

We had interesting conversations learning about ‘The Voice’, a yes/no referendum held two years ago to give greater political rights to Indigenous people. Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people - who make up 3.8% of the nation's 26 million population - have inhabited Australia for at least 65,000 years but are not mentioned in the constitution. They are, by most socio-economic measures, the most disadvantaged people in the country. The proposal to amend the constitution to recognise First Nations people and create a body for them to advise the government was overwhelmingly rejected. All six states voted No - when ballots were counted the No vote led 60% to 40%. Australia still has a way to go.Read more