Java - Malang

Eight students “had a creative idea to turn the slum into a place full of colour and life” says a dusty information board in the heart of Jodipan. They smile brightly out at me from the photo pinned on the board, confident they can make a difference. And they did.
Once a rundown slum area, Jodipan is now one of Malang’s ‘must-visit’ destinations.

Jodipan is a neighbourhood on the edge of the Brantas river in Malang. Malang itself is the second-largest city in East Java, cradled between volcanoes. Before 2016, Jodipan residents lived in poor conditions, waste was everywhere and clogged up the river, and they faced the threat of eviction by the local government.

The students came up with the idea to paint the neighbourhood as a way to regenerate the area. They developed the idea for a PR practical assignment, part of their Communication Studies Program at Muhammadiyah University Malang. Working alongside neighbourhood elders and a paint company they used three tons of donated paint to transform Jodipan into a rainbow village.

Leaving the bikes parked at one of the village gates, we each pay a small fee (RDP 10,000 : 45p) to enter. We are immediately enveloped by colour - green, orange, purple, yellow, blue, pink - and follow narrow winding walkways between small homes, descending ever downwards to the fast brown river. Everywhere creativity shines out. There are murals on walls featuring animals, masks, laughing cartoons. Above us eclectic decorations hang, made from rainbow umbrellas, coloured balls, and conical hats. Plants and flowers burst from pots. Residents sit on communal seats outside their homes and nod at us as we walk by. It is quiet, peaceful, full of welcome.

A local we meet called Darman - an unusually tall man (for Indonesia) - takes us under his knowledgable wing and tells us the neighbourhood now has a “great spirit of togetherness and care for the environment and community.” Since the painting, residents want to maintain the cleanliness and beauty of their village. Working together residents routinely clean the streets. The fees paid by tourists drawn by Jodipan’s colorful charm, enable developments: the repainting of faded walls, maintaining public facilities such as the bridge and seats, and funds improvements. The vibrant colours have brought about real change. And neighbouring communities also looked to Jodipan’s success and underwent their own transformation.

Enjoying our insightful chats with Darman he suggests we go for lunch together. Following Darman across the high road bridge we look across at Kampung Biru Arema (The Blue Village). Inspired by Jodipan, this neighbourhood is painted entirely in blue, to honor the local football team, Arema FC.

Walking with Darman we come across interesting areas of Malang we never would have found on our own. He takes us through Malang’s flower market, lush with green and selling all manner of orchids, bonsai trees, shrubs, ferns, palms, succulents. Leading us to the back of the market Darman suddenly exclaims with disappointment. The hidden cafe, a green riverside oasis - ‘Pipir Lepen’ - he wants to take us to is closed today.

Unfazed and smiling, Darman leads us on, taking us instead to the maze of narrow streets of Kajoetangan Heritage district. We feel we are walking around with a friend who truly loves their city. His favourite cafe here - ‘Jengki 976’ - he believes “really captures the heart and soul of this district, because it feels like a real local home. The house and recipes are passed down through generations.”

Inside we understand what he means. The furniture is vintage and homely. Family photos hang on the walls. A sleeping cat is curled peacefully in a chair. Darman orders us all a ‘Jamu Temulawak’ from the lady who lives here, a traditional iced herbal drink made from ginger, cinnamon, tamarind, honey and lime. Each family in Java will have their own recipe. This one is delicious - the drink has complex bitter and sweet flavours, earthy, woody, and spicy.

Meeting Darman has been an utter highlight. His easy friendliness and willingness to share his passion and stories and culture of Malang totally enriching our stay. Saying our goodbyes he slips a postcard of the area into our hands along with his WhatsApp number in case we need him for anything.

We’ll be sad to leave Malang. The city has felt like a soothing balm after Banyuwangi with its cooler elevated climate and dark green leafy streets. We’ve enjoyed the prevalence of young people - Malang has 12 universities - and the cafes they sit laughing and chatting in. Five days is long enough though, and the legs need to pedal onwards. Revitalised and restored, tomorrow we’ll start on our journey to Yogyakarta.Leggi altro