Singapore

We only had two days in the island city state of Singapore, one in the city and another cycling across the island to cross the border bridge over to Malaysia.

Entering Singapore was weird on a few fronts…

After putting our bikes back together it was a dangerous journey from the airport to the city centre! We had to survive several dinosaurs along our (wonderful dedicated) cycle path.

It was weird being in the city knowing our friends James and Krista no longer lived here - we had visited them years before and it felt an emptier city without them. We enjoyed the memories coming back of the places we had visited with them and wished they were still here.

Being accustomed to Indonesia, Singapore felt so different. A major financial hub and port the city is a prosperous, clean, modern metropolis. There are dedicated green spaces - after escaping the T-Rex we enjoyed cycling through East Coast Park where people were engaged in sporting leisure activities, something we’d never seen in Java. The car dominated again, and we waited obediently to cross busy roads, something we’d never done in Java. There was the wonderful sound of birds, something we rarely heard in Java. A diverse multicultural island with Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Eurasian communities, we no longer stood out and people didn’t give us a second glance, very different to the attention we got in Indonesia. We were in a big city with suits, skyscrapers, and public transport. People were efficient with their time and there were fewer smiles.

When we arrived at our hotel the reception was cold (both freezing aircon and staff demeanour). Impassive we were told we were ‘guests of the day’ (selected at random), that they wanted to take our photo and that there was a surprise in our room waiting for us! Not sure what to expect we were a little relieved to find the surprise was just a pair of towels on the bed in the shape of swans sprinkled with fake petals. Weird. Lilz was unimpressed by the towel surprise, having hoped it was biscuits.

We spent our day in the city exploring Chinatown, the Arab quarter of Kampong Glam, and Little India.

We walked on pavements (pavements!) to the nearest Metro stop, passing big signs enticing us to eat frog porridge. Skipping this particular delicacy, we opted for the quintessential Singapore breakfast of Kaya Toast. Consisting of two slices of toast sandwiching butter and kaya (coconut jam), served alongside kopi (coffee) and soft-boiled eggs, you add soy sauce and pepper to the eggs to taste and then dip your toast in. Despite trying the best - from ‘Ya Kun Kaya Toast’ an outlet on China street serving kaya toast since 1944 - I’d give it a 5/10.

On our way to Thian Hock Keng temple, the oldest Hokkien temple in the country, we passed an interesting mosque/museum and popped our heads in. We learnt about the area we were in - Telok Ayer - and Indian Muslims who emigrated to Singapore.

Telok Ayer was one was one of the first conservation areas to preserve building façades and streetscapes, escaping the massive demolition of Singapore’s old city following independence from Malaysia in 1965. We liked the old shophouses - unique to Southeast Asia - the futuristic glass and steel skyscrapers behind only emphasising this pocket of earlier colonial settlement. Telok Ayer was for many early immigrants the first place they landed after weeks at sea, and the area reflects a diverse cosmopolitan community. Early religious and civic institutions include the Indian built mosques, the Chinese temples and clan associations, and several Jewish properties sit alongside Anglo educational institutions.

After visiting the beautiful Thian Hock Keng temple we caught the metro to wander the Arab quarter: Kampong Glam. Here I loved the colour and buzz. We wandered with other tourists through streets lined with multicoloured shophouses, street art, and shops selling local indie brands, tourist tat, bright patterned textiles, carpets, and traditional clothing. Getting hungry we grabbed enormous falafel wraps from a corner food vendor. Always present was the prominent gleaming golden dome of Masjid Sultan, the Sultan Mosque. We went inside and were amazed by the size of the patterned carpet covering the prayer floor.

On our way back to the metro at Parkview Square we popped our heads into Atlas, an opulent art deco bar where you can have cocktails or afternoon tea. We just used their toilet and stood at the edge to admire the grand gilded gold interior, ornate frescos, and soaring Christmas tree. It was like we’d stepped into a scene from The Great Gatsby.

Next stop Little India to grab some bits and bobs in City Square Mall and then dinner - oh so good! - at the Tekka hawker centre.

Leaving the city the next morning we passed Raffles Hotel and the smiling doorman in his crisp, military-style uniform and white turban wished us well! It was a lovely spin along beautiful cycle paths by a river, on old railway lines, and through deep jungle where we heard, and then saw, our first hornbill high up in the trees! Luckily no wild boars, but a few dinosaur-like monitor lizards did slowly cross our path.

At lunchtime we stopped at a mall to grab some snacks and got chatting to a delivery driver as we were parking our bikes. As it started to rain hard we settled into more of a conversation with Azrin, who explained he also used to do a lot of touring until he had an accident damaging his back and can no longer cycle. Azrin is a gentle kind soul and before we knew it he was insisting on buying us lunch. Not taking no for an answer he sat us down in the mall’s food court and ordered us bowls of noodles. Expecting him to eat with us, we were saddened to learn he had to dash, getting back to his deliveries. The astonishing fleeting kindness of strangers never fails to bowl me over.

With full bellies, happy hearts, and passports at the ready, we cycled into the busy chaos of lanes going over the Woodlands bridge. Next stop, country five: Malaysia!!Read more