Malaysia - Kuala Lumpur 2

Our last two days in KL would be a mix of planning the route ahead and a cram of sightseeing.

Saturday started with a bit of me-time! I had my fav breakfast of roti canai and teh tarik (Kate, I will be ever grateful) at the mamak round the corner before going to get my haircut. Lilz has been doing a stirling job cutting my hair but it just needed a bit of tlc reshaping.

Catching the metro to Bangsar I was transported into a very different neighbourhood. Detached homes, designer apparel, international restaurants, home decor shops, trendy cafes. A John Lewis vibe. Expats and the affluent strode by with confidence. The salon had a minimalist aesthetic. My Japanese stylist was a man of few words and unexpressive features. His sure, quick movements skilfully restored layers in my hair. Within 20 mins of sitting down I was up and paying (fraction of the cost in Edinburgh) and was out the door. Leaving upscale Bangsar behind I joined Lilz to do route planning for the rest of the day, peering at the laptop eating biscuits and drinking tea.

Sunday, our last day in KL, started with a quick visit to the doctor’s (immediate appointment, lovely doctor (who studied in Russia in -25 winters) antibiotics dispensed rapidly, great service).

Meeting Lilz we explored the edge of Chinatown coming across REXKL. An ex-cinema transformed into a cultural hub it has a little craft market, retro stores and vintage pop-ups… and the magic of BookXcess taking up the top floors.

BookXcess is like no other bookshop. The bookshelves create a maze of books across different levels, with cutaways and staircases, airwells and platforms. It brings out your inner child as you clamber around fiction, up into history, through a labyrinth of children’s books, and take a wrong turn into maths. As much as I delighted in the concept, the reality of the place is less about the books (which weren’t even in alphabetical order!) and more about the gimmick. Tourists hold their phones aloft at every twist and turn, but never a page is turned or spine examined.

Saddened by this, we left to discover the busy hubbub of China Town’s Petaling Street. Here you wander through an eclectic market selling anything a tourist may desire: trainers, Pokémon key rings, fruit on a stick, wallets, bags, sunglasses, football shirts, durian flavoured ice lollies in the shape of the Petronas towers.

A short walk found us in the vastness of
Merdeka Square, passing a group of lads all dressed in pale mint green suits for a photo shoot on the bridge.

A longer uphill hot and bothered walk and we were in the Botanics. A huge green expanse in the city it felt good to be surrounded by plants, but as far as gardens go they weren’t superlative. The orchid garden redeemed things. I’m not usually that bothered by orchids: they seem a little overhyped. But seeing a myriad of different types, in intricate shapes and with butterflies and dragonflies similarly in appreciation, it was a beautiful experience.

We had a date with the some of the highest cocktails in the world that evening and needed to get a wriggle on. We couldn’t however walk past the National Mosque without visiting. A quick look! Geometric lines in white. Cool, calm, tranquil. Spoiled only by the requirement to wear a provided purple robe, mandatory for entry to cover the legs, arms and head to meet the Islamic dress code. Perhaps Allah favours the purple Smurf.

As usual we were now rushing not to be late. We reached Merdeka 118 tower (named for its 118 floors) in a damp fluster, in sharp contrast to the perfectly orderly doormen. After calmly welcoming us inside towels were magically produced to help us dry off the rain. From hereonin we were treated like kings. Directed through the cavernous cathedral-like marble foyer to the lifts we waited in anticipation. The lift smoothly rose up through the 74 floors, our ears popping, to emerge on Level 75 where we were accompanied to the Park Hyatt’s chocolate-themed bar, Cacoa Mixology. Sat on high stools with a lovely Christmas centrepiece running the length of the long wooden table we faced the view we’d come to see. Floor-to-ceiling windows framed a panoramic view of the city, overlooking the Petronas and Menura towers from high above.

Soft Bossa nova music, atmospheric lighting, refined contemporary decor - we’d definitely left our shabby touring selves at the ground floor and entered sophisticated luxury. I like it up here. Might not leave.

We ordered a cocktail each. A tropical fruity ‘Junglebird’ for Lilz (rum, pineapple, sugar, lime, Campari) and a crisp, citrusy ‘Sidecar’ for me (cognac, Cointreau, lemon juice). The staff were attentive and gracious and we enjoyed hearing about their careers that led them to join the newest Park Hyatt. Lee Wei Lung, from Penang, was the Beverage Manager and told us he’d worked at the Hilton before and had visited France for mixology and bartending competitions where he’d emerged as National Champion and Global Finalist. Fazly was our main host - an absolute gem - and with the sweetest smile plied us with free treats. With the cocktails we bought, we were also each given a complimentary cacao aperitif, traditional savoury nibbles, and chocolate tastings from a decadent display of beautifully handcrafted chocolates. We both agreed, paying £25 for cocktails to be in this high-up bar was a wonderful experience and beats £100+ to go up the Petronas towers for just the view!

All good things must come to an end, and after Fazly had kindly taken us on a tour of Level 75 - we poked our noses into private meeting rooms that cost an arm and a leg to hire, the dining rooms, and Park lounge - we descended back to earth.

Our walk home took us through Jalan Sultan street, vibrant with restaurants and people out to eat. We wove through groups of friends sitting outside under colourful street art, sharing food and stories, and soaked up the happy vibe. Thank you KL, you’ve been a city of surprising and vivid contrasts. Tomorrow we leave to head north, via the famous Batu caves.Læs mere