Malaysia - Pangkor Island

I’ve rarely seen Lilz so worried. For the full fifteen minute ferry crossing his face was a picture of anxiety. Through the ferry window we could see Sexy Pete outside, balancing on the ferry’s thin walkway edging, with only a thin piece of twine stopping him from falling into the briny sea.

People who know me know I love a ridiculous looking bird. The reason we’d made the journey to Pangkor island was to see the hornbills that live there. Malaysia is home to ten of the 62 species in the world (the Rhinoceros Hornbill is their national bird) and whilst normally rare to see, here on Pangkor island we’d read we were guaranteed to see some. I don’t think we expected we’d see so many!

Ferry crossing survived, we cycled the four miles over to the quiet west side of the island. The island was such a restorative change after the monotony of the last few days. Golden beaches with holidaying families made way to a rise into green junglyness. Due to a landslide, roadworks had restricted access to two-wheeled vehicles only, meaning we had the road all to ourselves. Without any cars the ride was an utter joy.

Our destination was the small village of Teluk Nipah, its few narrow streets laid out above a wide crescent beach. We were greeted by some gentle dogs as we entered the village - rare to see in this Muslim majority nation. Known for its seafood stalls and sunset views, the village has a very relaxed yet active island vibe. Behind the village, a green wall of tree covered hills that make up the centre of the island swept up towards the sky. We immediately liked the place.

As the sky started to take on hues of pearl, peach and persimmon we wandered down our street to Sunset View Chalet. Here Noordin, the guesthouse owner, continues a practice he has been doing every night for the last sixteen years. Offering small chunks of banana to people who have gathered on the roadside, he instructs how to hold the fruit high above your head, and wait. Swiftly, deftly, and surprisingly delicately (considering the size of their beaks), hornbills swoop down and take the banana from you. A supper stop on their way home to roost in the jungle, there can be as many as thirty birds on the cables above, or hopping along the fence, waiting patiently for their turn to grab their dusk treat. It was truly wonderful. The hornbills were pied hornbills, and they weren’t bothered about us at all.

The following day was full of sunshine and we cycled a loop of the island, enjoying the leafy, viney, shaded roads. Rare gaps through the thick foliage afforded picture perfect glimpses of bright blue sea and sky. A large still bay opened up at Teluk Dalam, complete with random large galleon, like something out of Pirates of the Caribbean. The locals have nicknamed it “Jack Sparrow’s Ship”. Here we befriended a stray mum and her pups, all bandy leggy and full of curiosity and affection.

Further round and the Chinese settlements of Sungai Pinang Besar and Kecil were a hub of industrious work in the boatyards. We cycled through strong smell pockets where the drying and processing of anchovies wafted up to us. Fishing boats in vibrant primary colours were being unloaded at rickety wooden docks.

In Pekan Pangkor on the east side of the island where the ferry comes in, we rode through a wee street where noodles were being made on one side and left to dry in the sun on large trays on the other.

Remains of a colonial Dutch fort held little interest. However one of the three little gift shops alongside had a retail display that was quite entertaining. Various oils in glass bottles were lined up above information boards of long lists, showing pictures of lizards and camels. Google translate magickery later, and I learnt the oils were derived from camel fat, herbal roots and the spiny-tailed lizard - produced by Haji Azman Bin Sharif of Pulau Pangkor. Marketed for the external relief of a whole smorgasbord of ailments: joint pain, asthma, insect bites, digestive problems, and gout, with a significant portion of labelling dedicated to curing male sexual health. Quite graphic claims made for strengthening and improving genitalia performance, with some bold energetic assertions! Inshallah.

Following a dead-end rewarded us with the sight of the floating mosque of Masjid Al-Badr hovering gracefully above the waters of Teluk Baru.

Cycling the hills back to Teluk Nipah we rounded off a perfect day by grabbing some corn on the cob from a street stall which we ate watching the late afternoon sun drop and then some curry on the beach.

Tomorrow we head to the historic city of Ipoh.Read more