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Me gusta el ceviche
  • Laurent Ceviche
  • Laurent Ceviche

Me gusta el ceviche

A 27-day adventure by Laurent Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 2, 2017
  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler
    The room the Incas filled with gold and silver for the conquistadors

    Cajamarca - Atahualpa's city

    September 8, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Where the Spanish conquistadors captured and killed the last Inca, but not before tricking him in filling the "ransom room" once with gold + twice with silver, promising his freedom. So delicate that they melted down the whole gold & silver artefacts to take the stuff back to Europe more efficiently.Read more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler

    Cajamarca - fighting the soroche

    September 8, 2017, Iglesia de San Francisco (Cajamarca) ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A bit of height sickness (soroche) when I arrived in Cajamarca (2700m "only" but maybe the way there from Chiclayo, through a pass at 3200m and a 4am arrival didn't help...) So I put all the chances on my side: slow walking around town, light meal with carbohydrates (potato soup... with a bit of amazing lamb), glucose (awesome "sauco" ice cream) and the Cajamarca special mate with coca leaves and lots of other plants. By 2pm I was fineRead more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler

    Highlands on the way to Celendín

    September 8, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Getting 3 hours closer to Chachapoyas to avoid a 5am start tomorrow. Beautiful highland landscapes already, subtitled Gun's n Roses music videos (no lloras esta noche...), a nice walk in pretty Celendín, and a very loud open-air stage with cumbia followed by 10-year olds reciting poems with lots of drama and passionRead more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler

    The beautiful Celendín-Chachapoyas road

    September 9, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A beautiful, narrow and slightly rough high-altitude twisting rollercoaster. Climbing from Celendín (2625m) to a 3085m pass, down to the village of Balsas (975m) on the river Maraňón, where I buy local bananas - delicious but not the best idea stomach-wise. After climbing again for a while everyone disembarks for a nice lunch and my neighbor Milagro (fitting name) tells me about the fiestas patronales in Lámud near Chachapoyas. The bus climbs again to the Calla Calla pass at 3678m and it looks like I've now adapted to altitude. Then we go down in the Rio Utcubamba valley through pretty Leimebamba and on to Chachapoyas.
    The most impressive road I've ever seen and probably the most talented bus driver I've ever met.    Read more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler

    Kuélap - the citadel in the clouds

    September 10, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    On the top of a mountain at 3100m, the impressive ruins of the capital of the Chachapoyas (the "people of the clouds"). The remains of more than 400 round houses are scattered across the trees and the views are beautiful. They used to trade with the Incas and other cultures, and despite being conquered by the Incas they kept some level of independence. There are still many mysteries about the site and its role, and the government juste started a 4-year preservation and archeological plan.Read more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler
    El Gallito De Las Rocas. Himself.It's cold it's windy but after that trek it feels good!

    Gocta waterfalls

    September 11, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌫 9 °C

    A beautiful walk through the forest to the 771m falls. The path goes up and down for two hours that to me feel like five (it's still around 2200m high here!), across a suspended bridge and I get lucky enough to spot the local bird, the red "gallito de las rocas".
    When I arrive at the falls suddenly the clouds disappear, the water is ice cold but still it's a good swim!    Read more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler
    A very good IPA from a Huaraz microbrewery"The Cuy!!". Guinea pig. Tastes ok. Doesn't need a treasure chest though.The same microbrewery also has a beer to honor Chachapoyas, and it's a Kölsch!Chef Jhon's beef with Quinotto (quinoa risotto). It's amazing and he proudly gave me the recipe :)They're good, but they hurt

    Chachapoyas

    September 11, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌫 9 °C

    A pretty town, though somehow nobody smiles here. There's an exception fortunately, the great little Cafe Fusiones, and they have the best list of beers I've seen in Peru so far. Including a "honey Kölsch". I go to try the famous "Cuy" (guinea pig - tastes ok but nothing special) in a good but slightly show-off restaurant, where the waiter brings a treasure chest to the table, opens it theatrically and announces "El Cuy!!". To recover I bring the town's other French traveller to the famous "La Reina" and we try their 12 liquors made with Amazonian fruits and roots. Fun to taste, but a slight headache the next day.Read more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler
    Cecina de res (dried beef)

    Fiestas de Lámud - by night

    September 12, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌫 9 °C

    I follow the advice of Milagro whom I had met on the road to Chachapoyas, and head to this little village in another valley to attend their "Fiestas patronales", the celebration of the local saint, el Señor de Gualamita. The girl who runs the hostel (and runs the tourism office, and give courses to the town's people at night) introduces me to half of the town, and after an hour or two it feels almost home. The food and the pisco are good, the trumpets and accordions are loud, and although the dancing hall is way too big for the couple hundreds people dancing, they have good energy - and they've been partying for 12 days already.Read more

  • Laurent CevicheMe gusta el cevicheTraveler

    Tarapoto - Lamas

    September 15, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    A town split in two: the Quechua indigenous on the lower plateau and the mestizo people on the upper part of town - near the bizarre castle built by an Italian wgi decided to move here. The Oro Verde cooperative is based here, with 1000+ families growing and processing organic cacao (in Lamas itself and the surrounding villages) and coffee (in higher altitudes starting at 1400m).Read more

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