Me gusta el ceviche

A 27-day adventure by Laurent Read more

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Trip start
September 2, 2017
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Day 1
Saturday, September 2, 2017 at 9:00 AM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 141 m
Peru Lima -12.0436, -77.0386112°2’37” S 77°2’19” W
Lima - Centro histórico
September 2, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
First day in Peru - busy capital but very well conserved colonial streets
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Day 1
Saturday, September 2, 2017 at 4:00 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 145 m
Peru Lima -12.04333, -77.0383312°2’36” S 77°2’18” W
Lima - Casa de la literatura
September 2, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Beautiful museum in the restored old train station, with cool museographic ideas
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Day 1
Saturday, September 2, 2017 at 8:00 PM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 145 m
Peru Lima -12.04333, -77.0383312°2’36” S 77°2’18” W
Lima - evening
September 2, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Pacific coastline (cloudy), avocado salad (in its birthplace), punk peruano
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Day 2
Sunday, September 3, 2017 at 10:00 AM
☁️ 16 °C
Altitude: 145 m
Peru Lima -12.04333, -77.0383312°2’36” S 77°2’18” W
Lima - MATE
September 3, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Photo museum - collection of Mario Testino, peruvian star photographer
TravelerFantastic !
9/8/17Reply
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Day 2
Sunday, September 3, 2017 at 6:00 PM
☁️ 16 °C
Altitude: 81 m
Peru Playa los Yuyos -12.14999, -77.0221612°8’60” S 77°1’20” W
Lima - Barranco
September 3, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
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Day 3
Monday, September 4, 2017 at 6:00 PM
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: 26 m
Peru Cerro Tres Puntas -3.69576, -80.702513°41’45” S 80°42’9” W
Zorritos - Casa Grillo
September 4, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
I want to see the guinea pig!! Followed by delicious vanilla ants!! Yuuuumm!
9/9/17Reply
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Day 4
Tuesday, September 5, 2017 at 10:00 AM
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: Sea level
Peru Isla del Amor -3.4916, -80.396133°29’30” S 80°23’46” W
Tumbles - Manglares
September 5, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Birds, lots of birds. An island, happy peruvian tourists near the Ecuadorian border.
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Day 4
Tuesday, September 5, 2017 at 11:00 AM
☁️ 25 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Peru Embarcadero -3.50953, -80.395963°30’34” S 80°23’45” W
Tumbes - Criadero de cocodrilos
September 5, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
The last peruvian crocodiles in a crocodile nursery
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Day 5
Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 10:00 AM
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 48 m
Peru Palo de Balza -3.81667, -80.488333°49’0” S 80°29’18” W
Tumbes - Cerros de Amotape
September 6, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Driven to the "bosce seco" (dry woodlands) by Alonso on his motorbike
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Day 5
Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 4:00 PM
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: 52 m
Palo de Balza -3.81863, -80.48483°49’7” S 80°29’5” W
Cerros de Amotape - a swim in Rio Tumbes
September 6, 2017, Palo de Balza ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
-- near a crocodile trail. At least now I know they're all in the Tumbes nursery.
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Day 6
Thursday, September 7, 2017
⛅ 31 °C
Altitude: 44 m
Peru Pampa Pan de Azufre -5.67035, -80.537085°40’13” S 80°32’13” W
Zorritos>Piura via Mancora
September 7, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
A small goodbye-langosta in Zorritos, a mind-blowing coconut-milk-ceviche in Mancora, and rice fields on the way
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Day 7
Friday, September 8, 2017 at 9:00 AM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 2,717 m
Peru Iglesia de San Francisco (Cajamarca)-7.15762, -78.517397°9’27” S 78°31’3” W
Cajamarca - Atahualpa's city
September 8, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Where the Spanish conquistadors captured and killed the last Inca, but not before tricking him in filling the "ransom room" once with gold + twice with silver, promising his freedom. So delicate that they melted down the whole gold & silver artefacts to take the stuff back to Europe more efficiently.Read more
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Day 7
Friday, September 8, 2017 at 10:00 AM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 2,719 m
Iglesia de San Francisco (Cajamarca)-7.15783, -78.517017°9’28” S 78°31’1” W
Cajamarca - fighting the soroche
September 8, 2017, Iglesia de San Francisco (Cajamarca) ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
A bit of height sickness (soroche) when I arrived in Cajamarca (2700m "only" but maybe the way there from Chiclayo, through a pass at 3200m and a 4am arrival didn't help...) So I put all the chances on my side: slow walking around town, light meal with carbohydrates (potato soup... with a bit of amazing lamb), glucose (awesome "sauco" ice cream) and the Cajamarca special mate with coca leaves and lots of other plants. By 2pm I was fineRead more
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Day 7
Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:00 PM
☀️ 12 °C
Altitude: 3,259 m
Peru Caja Potrero -7.01613, -78.25127°0’58” S 78°15’4” W
Highlands on the way to Celendín
September 8, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Getting 3 hours closer to Chachapoyas to avoid a 5am start tomorrow. Beautiful highland landscapes already, subtitled Gun's n Roses music videos (no lloras esta noche...), a nice walk in pretty Celendín, and a very loud open-air stage with cumbia followed by 10-year olds reciting poems with lots of drama and passionRead more
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Day 8
Saturday, September 9, 2017
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 3,147 m
Peru Jínes -6.77833, -77.908336°46’42” S 77°54’30” W
The beautiful Celendín-Chachapoyas road
September 9, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
A beautiful, narrow and slightly rough high-altitude twisting rollercoaster. Climbing from Celendín (2625m) to a 3085m pass, down to the village of Balsas (975m) on the river Maraňón, where I buy local bananas - delicious but not the best idea stomach-wise. After climbing again for a while everyone disembarks for a nice lunch and my neighbor Milagro (fitting name) tells me about the fiestas patronales in Lámud near Chachapoyas. The bus climbs again to the Calla Calla pass at 3678m and it looks like I've now adapted to altitude. Then we go down in the Rio Utcubamba valley through pretty Leimebamba and on to Chachapoyas.
The most impressive road I've ever seen and probably the most talented bus driver I've ever met.Read more
Glad you made it safe, mate
9/14/17Reply
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Day 9
Sunday, September 10, 2017
⛅ 30 °C
Altitude: 3,021 m
Peru Chumbe -6.41667, -77.923336°25’0” S 77°55’24” W
Kuélap - the citadel in the clouds
September 10, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
On the top of a mountain at 3100m, the impressive ruins of the capital of the Chachapoyas (the "people of the clouds"). The remains of more than 400 round houses are scattered across the trees and the views are beautiful. They used to trade with the Incas and other cultures, and despite being conquered by the Incas they kept some level of independence. There are still many mysteries about the site and its role, and the government juste started a 4-year preservation and archeological plan.Read more
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Day 10
Monday, September 11, 2017 at 9:00 AM
🌫 9 °C
Altitude: 1,769 m
Peru Cerro Tacala -6.04167, -77.888336°2’30” S 77°53’18” W
Gocta waterfalls
September 11, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌫 9 °C
A beautiful walk through the forest to the 771m falls. The path goes up and down for two hours that to me feel like five (it's still around 2200m high here!), across a suspended bridge and I get lucky enough to spot the local bird, the red "gallito de las rocas".
When I arrive at the falls suddenly the clouds disappear, the water is ice cold but still it's a good swim!Read more
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Day 10
Monday, September 11, 2017 at 7:00 PM
🌫 9 °C
Altitude: 2,341 m
Peru Chachapoyas -6.22833, -77.871676°13’42” S 77°52’18” W
Chachapoyas
September 11, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌫 9 °C
A pretty town, though somehow nobody smiles here. There's an exception fortunately, the great little Cafe Fusiones, and they have the best list of beers I've seen in Peru so far. Including a "honey Kölsch". I go to try the famous "Cuy" (guinea pig - tastes ok but nothing special) in a good but slightly show-off restaurant, where the waiter brings a treasure chest to the table, opens it theatrically and announces "El Cuy!!". To recover I bring the town's other French traveller to the famous "La Reina" and we try their 12 liquors made with Amazonian fruits and roots. Fun to taste, but a slight headache the next day.Read more
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Day 11
Tuesday, September 12, 2017 at 6:22 PM
🌫 9 °C
Altitude: 2,312 m
Peru Quebrada Gache -6.13833, -77.951676°8’18” S 77°57’6” W
Fiestas de Lámud - by night
September 12, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌫 9 °C
I follow the advice of Milagro whom I had met on the road to Chachapoyas, and head to this little village in another valley to attend their "Fiestas patronales", the celebration of the local saint, el Señor de Gualamita. The girl who runs the hostel (and runs the tourism office, and give courses to the town's people at night) introduces me to half of the town, and after an hour or two it feels almost home. The food and the pisco are good, the trumpets and accordions are loud, and although the dancing hall is way too big for the couple hundreds people dancing, they have good energy - and they've been partying for 12 days already.Read more
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Day 12
Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 10:30 AM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 2,312 m
Quebrada Gache -6.13833, -77.951676°8’18” S 77°57’6” W
Fiestas de Lámud - Hatun Luya 1
September 13, 2017, Quebrada Gache ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
The yearly "Hatun Luya", a parade of delegations from the whole Luya region showing their local traditions, dances, costumes... It's so pretty I can't stick to 6 pictures (the app doesn't let me post more in one go) so 2 more posts to follow.Read more
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Day 12
Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 10:32 AM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 2,312 m
Quebrada Gache -6.13833, -77.951676°8’18” S 77°57’6” W
Fiestas de Lámud - Hatun Luya 2
September 13, 2017, Quebrada Gache ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
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Day 12
Wednesday, September 13, 2017 at 10:33 AM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 2,332 m
Quebrada Gache -6.13833, -77.953336°8’18” S 77°57’12” W
Fiestas de Lámud - Hatun Luya 3
September 13, 2017, Quebrada Gache ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
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Day 13
Thursday, September 14, 2017
⛅ 28 °C
Altitude: 616 m
Peru Sauce -6.69333, -76.2156°41’36” S 76°12’54” W
Tarapoto - Laguna azul
September 14, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C
First day in the jungle: a trip to (and a swim in) the "blue lagoon" and a plate of picura, the Amazonian rodent.
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Day 14
Friday, September 15, 2017 at 4:31 PM
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 868 m
Peru Lamas -6.41833, -76.523336°25’6” S 76°31’24” W
Tarapoto - Lamas
September 15, 2017 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
A town split in two: the Quechua indigenous on the lower plateau and the mestizo people on the upper part of town - near the bizarre castle built by an Italian wgi decided to move here. The Oro Verde cooperative is based here, with 1000+ families growing and processing organic cacao (in Lamas itself and the surrounding villages) and coffee (in higher altitudes starting at 1400m).Read more
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Day 14
Friday, September 15, 2017 at 11:00 PM
🌙 21 °C
Altitude: 339 m
Peru Huayco -6.48833, -76.366°29’18” S 76°21’36” W
1 1
Tarapoto - the food the drinks the party
September 15, 2017 in Peru ⋅ 🌙 21 °C
As everywhere else in Peru, I would have needed to stay a whole week to taste it all.
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