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Camino Primitivo
  • Lynnie-Lu
  • Lynnie-Lu

Camino Primitivo

A 14-day adventure by Lynnie-Lu Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 18, 2026
    Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
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    11111112Small village of Paladins, our first night's stay on the Camino.First communal dinner!

    Day 1-Oviedo to Paladin

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Yay! Arrived yesterday late night to Oviedo, Spain, from Costa Rica, where friend Lisa met up with me from Italy. We had late start this morning to collect a few needed items for trail, along a pilgrim’s passport. Left about 11 am, with only the plan to take it easy the first day with time zone changes and travel, but logged 12 miles/20km when we stopped by 5pm.
    Stayed in private albergue, Villa Palatina, with a few more amenities that public one, plus they serve communal dinner, which is some of the best experiences of the Caminos.
    So, we have 200 mikes /321km to cover in our 15 or so days, to reach Santiago, Spain, where all Camino’s end.
    That’s all I got for tonight as whipped!! Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
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    Day 2-Paladin to Casazorinna

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We covered 15.5 miles today, with at least a 1000 ft assent, and day was tiring! We did manage to leave more on schedule now, with a 7am departure. Our communal dinner the first night was so entertaining due to delightful hosts that went out of their way to entertain us and engage meaningful sharing as to our purpose on the Camino.
    Ok, the climb out of Grado was long and a challenge, but after that, rolling rolls up and down, through small villages and trails but also longer stretches on main roads, not our preferences. We arrived 4pm to a stunning private albergue, where we shower (yay!), wash clothes and rest. As we approach the Hospitales section, rooms are less abundant so we booked ahead the next 2 nights. Tomorrow we expect to enter more mountainous terrain. Staying at La Figal de Xugabolos, definitely a keeper for this stage.    Read more

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    Day 3-Casazorrina to Tineo

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today’s hike took us up out of town into forest trails for most of the day! It was what we’ve been waiting for. Shortly into our day we did a 100 mt off trail to view a beautiful waterfall, so worth the stop. We then hiked through rolling hills, farmland and through a few villages. Then pit stop for cafe con leche, Spanish omelette (eggs with potatoes) and topped off with ice cream for more calories! Check out the selfie!
    Now hiking with Camino friends that have been on course with us since the start, often departing with each other as our paces differ, then catching up at cafes or albergues (pilgrim hostels) at end of day. So fun!
    A highlight today was as we left one town headed up and out, along a slightly wider trail, we encountered an entire herd of cows making there way down, barely squeezing along each other. What a hoot!
    Tonight we stayed in the ‘basement’ albergue of a 4 star hotel. Crazy. We stocked up on some food supplies in last supermarket for the trail before our big hike day after tomorrow, since next village stay is only one bar town and small albergue. More on that tomorrow!
    We hiked another 15.6 miles with almost 3000 ft climb in elevation, arriving absolutely whipped with tired legs and feet! Vitamin ‘I’ for that!    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
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    Day 4-Tineo to Borres

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Another outstanding day, beautiful weather, hikes on mostly trails in the hills above the villages, then on some roads through only a few tiny villages. The open stretches on roads took us through farm country, lots of hay fields, with beautiful beefy tractors that look different than those in US (I’ll catch a pic of those yet). So many horses here. We also visited an ancient monastery that we had to go off trail about a half kilometer to see, but super worth the side trip.
    Only one pit stop today for cafe and snacks, arriving at 3pm, and covering about 11 miles and 1560 ft climb in elevation. Feeling better today at finish with legs and feet adjusting! It always takes the first half week of any Camino to prepare for the rest.
    Ok, the focus tonight is on big hike over the highest peak, called the Hospitales route tomorrow. This will offer us 360^ views of some the beautiful country in northern Spain. No amenities for 15 plus miles, just mountain trails until we reach more barren upper areas, and with an expected high of 86^ tomorrow. So. we will send our packs ahead, and go with daypacks to bring needed supplies. In mine, 4 liters of water, snacks and sandwich. We just couldn’t add the weight of that much water to our full packs.
    There’s was only one place to eat in this tiny village, with all the pilgrims there tonight enjoying cervasa, vino tinto and bocadillos, or a baguettes filled with meat, cheese, eggs or sausage. Everyone leaving very early for the just under 18 mile hike. Buen Camino!    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
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    At our day's start1112Some of the rough trails to climb111

    Day 5- Borres to Berducedo

    May 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    We left just at daybreak to make the journey over the Hospitales portion of this stage, knowing we had a hot day ahead. With only daypacks we felt very light and energized, having sent our packs ahead.
    There were still clouds over the mountains as we climbed, which looked like lakes as we gazed out. It’s so hard to capture mountain vistas, but the views all day were spectacular.
    As we climbed, the terrain changed to be more arid. Many trails were filled with loose, jagged rocks that were very difficult to climb, even worse as we went down some of these. We visited the ruins of 3 ancient hospitals, which is where the name of this stage comes from.
    A highlight was meeting up with a small herd of cows, calves, horse and foals…so stunning to see them in the wild at a mountain pond!
    As we exited the mountain trail from the Hospitales, joining the alternative route of this stage, there was a food truck waiting on us! So only 10 miles before we were able to refuel.
    Mostly downhill trekking from there, another 6 miles to reach our village for the evening, so about 16 miles and about 3000ft assent for the day.
    Lisa was feeling great…I was pretty fatigued and sore, more Vit I (ibuprofen, ha!), then crashed for the night.    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
    Leaving in the rain1111Our albergueOur hosts at Albergue1

    Day 6-Berducedo to Castro

    May 23 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Best. Day. Ever. Wow, we left Berducedo in a light rain, after waiting for thunder and lightening to subside, about 8, a late start. It was a beautiful relief after the heat of the day before. We walked through forests toward what was being described as a challenging, long decent, with paths of loose rock that we experienced in the Hospitales terrain. We also sent our packs ahead to help with the decent. But to our surprise, it was very manageable, just steep at start, then very long downhill hike for hours in a steady decline. But…it also turned out to be the best trail so far! Spectacular vistas of the mountains dropping into a reservoir lake, with us above the clouds. The trails were lined with beautiful flowers and smaller evergreen bushes. It was an incredible 10 miles down, then lunch on lake, then 6 miles more to complete 16 miles for the day.
    We were in heaven!    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
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    Day 7-Castro to Fonsagrada

    May 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    I’m getting behind in my posts, now trying to separate the days journeys! But this day was the least interesting to date, with trails in forests but more exposed, then in and out of longer highway tracks, not great at all. We had 1200 ft gain in elevation early on, but the kicker was the final assent into Fonsagrda, another very steep, almost vertical climb! Between the heat and climb, we were stopping at every patch of tress to catch our breaths, but we made it. You’ll see in one pic we crossed from one ‘autonomous community’ to another, leaving Asturias and entering Galicia, right in the middle of a mountain trail. It was a shorter day, about 12 mikes long, which was a needed break. Not so many pics today with less varying views and terrains.Read more

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    Day 8- Fonsagrada to O Cadavo

    May 25 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    This was the last day primarily in the mountains, now making our way toward the lower elevations. It was filled with beautiful forest trails that meandered up and down, with smaller connections out on the roads. We relished when we would find that cafe or bar so needed for a short break, along with cafe con leche and pastries, often unexcited upon exiting a mountain trail. These are the times you can catch all your trail mates who have walking at different paces, and whom you are getting to know very well, both from the trails and at the albergues each night.
    It was a most pleasant walk of 15 miles or so, yet again!    Read more

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    Day 9-Hop, skip and jump-and it’s Lugo

    May 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    The trail was catching up with me, and I decided my body needed a day off. Plus I wanted to skip a less interesting and longer stage (19 miles), with basically only a ‘well supplied’ vending machine along the walk.
    So I taxied ahead to Lugo for my day off, as biggest city on the Primitivo. This way, I could also stay on rhythm with the pilgrims we’ve been traveling with all along.
    Lisa decided she was ending her Camino here, and flew back to Italy.
    I also took a break from the albergue life and got an apartment rental off Airbnb, with Heidi, a friend from Germany, sharing with me.
    Great decision! Slept late, wandered the old city center, walked the Roman wall surrounding the center (3.2 km), got a massage, toured the Cathedral, and ate late dinner out. Tomorrow, back to the Camino.    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
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    Day 10-Lugo to Ferreira

    May 27 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Another lovely day covering 15 miles in all. We walked through gently rolling hills of agricultural and pastures, mixed with areas of forest trails. It was mostly on paved narrower roads but rarely a car would go by, and it was so peaceful and quiet. I would go for a hour before seeing another pilgrim. Arrived to basically a ‘one-horse’ town, plunked down at only bar and finally had a couple of cervasas, not something I’ve been indulging in at the days end, but my spirits were so high!
    Then, I discovered my credencial (pilgrims passport) was missing! It stays in a slip pocket with my phone, which I’m pulling out all day to snap pics. Oh well, I thought, now I cannot show proof of my Camino.
    Then not 10” later, a pilgrim walks up and asked if I lost my credencial, as she found one about 3 km back on the road! I bought her a drink and hugged her! This is some of the magic of the Camino!    Read more

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    Day 11-Ferreira to Melide

    May 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Another fine day to be alive and waking the Camino! We walked through similar, but different (yet again) landscapes, rolling hills, more farmland, more homes stretched between villages…meaning, getting to more populated areas. Still, this is the slowest way to travel, so you see how much landscapes do differ. Trails are less through wooded areas now, too, and more traffic.
    But the pictures will highlight, again, what stood out!    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
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    1121That's Melide in the distance121Our albergue

    Day 12-Melide to A Calle

    May 29 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Left Melide today, where the Primitivo Camino joins the Frances Camino, so now encountering more pilgrims, and many in small groups. Still, I cruised along pretty smoothly on mostly flat roads to cover 13.5 miles without a thought about it! As we left the farmlands, we were on the roads much more, now going from villages to towns and closer together. I’d have to say it was my least favorite day. However, I ended at a lovely albergue in tiny village, with food snd drinks all on site!Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
    Entering LavacollaMy albergue

    Day 13-A Calle to Lavacolla

    May 30 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Left today in cooler weather, overcast skies, and misty air for the entire morning. It was a pleased change from the warmer midday temperatures of the past week. It was another 13 mile hike that felt like a stroll in the park, especially with these flat lands of yesterday and today.
    One interesting encounter on the trail today. As I rounded a corner coming out of the woods, there was a priest saying a Catholic Mass to a handful of pilgrims! I stayed for a bit, then continued on, not sure if this was private or not. Later I learned it would have been fine to participate, from another pilgrim who also stumbled on this unusual event, blessings for us all❤️
    So, feeling melancholy as Santiago approaches, only 10 km to go, making this my last night on the Camino🙏🏼
    I will arrive mid-morning and attend the pilgrim’s mass at noon at the Cathedral! Buen Camino for the last day!    Read more

  • Lynnie-LuCamino PrimitivoTraveler
    Pilgrim statues on route4

    Day 14-Lavacolla to Santiago!

    May 31 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Finally getting back to last footprint! Left Lavacola with only 10km to go, to arrive by 10am to be able to attend noon pilgrim’s mass. At about 5km I was entering the outskirts of Santiago. As I’ve have had such an arrival before on our Camino Portuguese, I was surprised how emotional I was arriving into the square of the Cathedral! It brought tears to my eyes to have completed the 182 miles/293km of my journey! Immediately I ran into fellow pilgrim I traveled with along the way, who took pics for me in the square.
    Noon mass was even more emotional, sitting with 3 more pilgrims I walked along the way with, who arrived today as well, as I contemplated the walk, the changes in my life since my last time here in the cathedral, and what the future holds.
    We were graced with the swinging of the botafumeiro, such an incredible sight to experience!
    Spent 2 days in Santiago, then 2 in Madrid, leaving today. Time to start thinking about my next Camino, because this type of journey gets in one’s blood! Buen Camino❤️    Read more

    Trip end
    May 31, 2026