• Regina and Ian
Sep – Nov 2024

Europe

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  • Kransjka-Gora to Bovec

    28 September 2024, Slovenia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    How to explain?
    We had some rain. The temperature got down to 7° under cloud. We just avoided a hail storm. 12.4 klm climb into dropping temps and threatening rain. A former Soviet Iron Ore mine that is long closed with a heavy sense of desperation.
    You might be thinking “that’s pretty crap”, but it has been the best day of the tour so far.
    Let me say why.
    Roll out of a postcard town on uninterrupted cycleway for 21k, following a river and weaving through forests. And, it’s mostly down hill with coffee a a fun spot as punctuation. We cross into Italy which inexplicably creates much jolliness in the group.
    The climbing starts but it’s a yummy one with slick hot mix and plenty of steps in the grade that gives plenty of relief.
    Brake hard when Lago Del Predil comes into view with that green water only found in limestone mountains.
    More climbing with switchbacks and views.
    Plenty of reason to jump off the bike and snap pics and explore.
    Cross the border again at the summit back into Slovenia for a spectacular descent. You know that sort of descent that you are glad you’re not climbing.
    With rain threatening, we’ve identified a lunch spot (on comically named Log Pod Mangartom) where hail strikes as soon as as we walk in and we chow down on a hearty stew.
    After lunch and the storm the descent continued overlooked by impossibly high and steep peaks with water gushing everywhere.
    Bovec is our stop for the night. It look across a valley toward a series of mountains that includes Triglav, the highest peak in Slovenia which features on their flag.
    Triglav is a tease and won’t reveal itself from a covering of cloud until the very last rays of sunset. Let the short video show the impact it had on me.
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  • Bovec to Most na Soči

    29 September 2024, Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    This is not a food blog, but we can’t leave Boveč without talking up the skill of the team in the kitchen at Hotel Boka.
    But first - the sunset last night. Totally epic.
    We arrived out of a storm, which had also thrashed this area the previous day. Rain, wind, flooding, power outages, roofs off, trees down and landslides. Only some evidence remains. After the stormy gloom, sunset progressed with clearing sky and splashes of golden light. Just before last light, distant Triglav revealed itself, to leave us with a sense of awe.
    Then we went inside and had dinner. Woohoo! What a triumph. Two entrees, main and desert. All innovation, freshness and yumminess. We had way too much to eat and probably didn’t sleep too well as a result.
    Up early anyway for a walk out to Slap Boka. A 106m waterfall that erupts directly out the side of a limestone cliff with very little surface water in that cascade.
    At roll-out time the morning was cool but the sky was clear, and we continued our downhill run along Soča River. First stop was Napoleon’s Bridge, so named after his crossing. This is normally a popular swimming spot. Have a look at the torrent in the attached video. No swimming here my friends. Jessica Fox could not survive in her Kayak.
    Across the bridge and heading SE, this side of the river has very quiet back roads. As soon as we hit slightly populated areas we again follow beautifully made cycle ways until Most na Soči (translating to Bridge on the Soča). There is actually multiple bridges and 3 rivers but the Bača and Indrica don’t rate a mention
    This was “only a short day” says Paul our Tour leader. “Fancy an extra bit? With an evil glint. It’s called ‘Sheer Hell’
    Believe it or not -off we go. Within 2k it has lived up to its name. By 5k we are thinking “What the…” 11.7k to the top and recurring pinches over 10% and up to 18%. But the views into the Julian (pronounced Yulian) and the Tolkienesque Forrest are what we are here for. Across the top of the mountain the road is barely a path, and then a breathtaking descent. All of it with only a handful of cars. Joy.
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  • Rest Day - Most na Soči

    30 September 2024, Slovenia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Our rest day kicked off with a leisurely breakfast - many returns to the buffet for some.
    Then it’s on the bikes and head off to Tomlinska Kori’s (Tolmin Gorge) at the confluence of Zadlaščica and Tolmika Rivers.
    It’s very beautiful and mighty impressive with the impact of the same floodwaters in the Soča.
    Further resting on the schedule - some head off to explore …….. Falls, some walking the mountain tracks, and some with a better grasp of the concept “rest” day, perch on the side of the Idrijca River and contemplate its Emerald greenness and sedately work on an appetite for dinner.
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  • Most na Soči to Vipava

    1 Oktober 2024, Slovenia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Brace yourselves.
    Down the hotel Šterk’s driveway about 90 meters - tight hairpin turn to the left and climbing starts at 16% and rolls by on for 2k. Good morning.
    Another day and again the countryside changes at every turn.
    We find our way back to the Soča river by tiny backroads, only briefly on a secondary road. We continue to follow the river on a cycleway (did I say we love this country) until morning tea.
    Our tour guide is a genius and has furnished us with maps that avoid the main roads - swings and roundabouts - as some of these detours take us through villages perched on hills while the busier roads track the river.
    Our destination is Slap (outside Vipava) which has its town centre preserved. We are staying in Žorž winery. It has been in the same family for 150 years. The buildings are currently undergoing extensive restoration and the work is fabulous
    We had a tasting of their range then left us with “please drink any wines you like from the fridge and racks”. We like them all. Not so much the Rosé and Orange (colour not fermentation Fruit) wine.
    90% chance of rain tomorrow. Grrr.
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  • Vipava to Piran

    2 Oktober 2024, Slovenia ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We wake for our last day of riding to finf solid rain and no forecast of it letting up.
    There are many excuses that could be offered but 5 of our 8 persons decided to take the van option. As far as I know neither sag wagon group or the 3 who braved the elements regretted their decisions. Must have made the right one.
    Piran is a super bustling coastal resort town. We skirt Tireste in Italy and back into Slovenia and Slovenia’s entire 46.6klm coastline that faces Croatia across the Adriatic Sea (Gulf of Piran). We’re all a bit sad this evening as we prepare to say goodbye to our riding mates. Al and Sam heading to Zagreb, Croatia; Drew and Chris off the Prague, Czechia; Andrew to London, UK; Jude, Chris, Regina and Ian to Muggia just 24k east along the coast in Italy we we will soon divide further with Chris and Jude to Malta and Regina and Ian to Florence, Italy. Our tour guide Paul will head home to Jeruzalem, Slovenia.
    It has been a spectacular cycling adventure and can’t recommend Slovenia highly enough
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  • Slovenia. Some bits and pieces

    2 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    - Just 46.6k of coast line, but they do love seafood.
    - Just 2.1 million people (compare Brisbane)
    - Crime - none - not that anyone is talking about, not enough for our tour guide to lock-up the bikes. Very little litter. Graffiti as an anachronism (except for Ljubljana) when house proud is the norm.
    - 95 octane fuel (price snapshot)
    Slovenia €1.45
    France €1.94
    Italy €1.72
    - I mused in an earlier post, if something in the water is creating Amazing cyclists (Pogacar, Roglic et.al) The water is abundant with accessible, fresh and drinkable springs. I drank that - didn’t help. Picture this: a kid grows up with a bike and motorist who see a cyclist and responds by slowing to give way (they don’t scream G.O.T.F.R. or use their vehicle to intimidate her out of the way). Do you recon they will ride at every opportunity? Wouldn’t you leave your car at home to go to the shop, the movies, to visit friends or go to school/ work? You would, just like many here. Collectively, our tour group rode ~ 4,500klm in Slovenia, and 2,400 klm in France and we had ONE traffic incident (a close pass by a bus), which appeared to be accidental because of road conditions. Fantastic.
    - Slovenians see their neighbours as different to themselves. Italians are complainers. Croatians are to excitable. Serbians are rude & aggressive. Hungarians are miserable. (As reported by Slovines not me)
    - Slovenians love to smoke. Google says 27% of them do. Italy 24%, Aus 10.2%. Smokers certainly are more visible as they are allowed to smoke in outdoor venues- even restaurants.

    - Food is seasonal. If a vegetable is out of season, you typically don’t get it. (Ljubljana was the only big city we visited at 280,000 population, and Piran the next biggest @ 3,700)
    - Population density 100-1000 on Central Coast. Slovenia is 105/sq klm. Is that a reason for such aggressive driving.
    - Wonderful multi cultural food in Ljubljana. some vote Slovenian food as better than France.
    - Ljubljana might just be Paris of the Balkans. Relaxed, safe stylish beautiful.
    - Cycle touring and just dawdling along on a bike is the best.
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  • Muggia, Italy

    3 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Interesting mix of working harbour, seaside recreation and historical village. It sits across the Bay from Trieste, with its amazing commercial history and significance that is maintained today as the most important hub for this part of Europe.
    We have a second floor apartment with a view of a huge marina that is being thrashed by strong winds and rain.
    Locals and other visitors assure us it will be beautiful tomorrow.
    We explored parts of the town despite the rain, and feast on a magnificent steak dinner (Ian - not Regina)

    It’s next day and Muggia is 4 times more beautiful when the sun shines.
    Trieste is gorgeous as well. Roman ruins, Baroque churches, meandering and narrow lanes - all begging to be explored, wide piazzas, imposing statuary and big splashes of grandiose architecture.
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  • One night in Trieste

    5 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    So full of life.
    Such a contrast to the cycle / sightseeing / Early dinner / good night sleep that we enjoyed in Slovenia. Little bit of decadent bar hopping going on here.

    Friday on a day trip by bus we came over from Muggia which was mostly shut because of wind and rain. Back again today via the ferry under a clearing sky. The town is heaving. We are between October Fest and Barcolana Regatta (largest global regatta), there is still plenty of beer, and there are heaps of boats and sailors. Beautiful spectacle on the Adriatic.

    We see 2 huge cruise ships in town. Plus an impounded Russian $530M Super Yacht. An obscene thing. The yacht that is not so much the cruise ships - although it’s funny to see long lines of cruise people marching behind a flag carrying guide as they quickly check off the towns “sights” of which there are many.
    https://www.intrieste.com/2022/03/12/italy-seiz…
    (Thanks Il Picolo for the photo)

    We hunt down some live music. A corner pub with family vibe has LOUD fun music and great table snacks. In Plaza del Ponterosso a big stage is hosting the Italian language band Subsonica. We find a table in a café on Canal Grande Trieste with a view of the stage and Regina’s new favourite side dish - Panelle (Sicilian Chick Pea Fritter)

    A great night sleep, then a train ride along the coast to Venice and thence Florence to meet Izzy and Scott.

    A shame it was only one night. But it was a good one.
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  • Fierenze

    6 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Excellent - we will meet up with Izzy and Scott for our visit to Florence and then onto Asciano in the Tuscan countryside.
    What’s up here? In (one of) the richest cities in Europe.
    So many visitors. That might contribute to the wealth. Sit and have a beer while taking in the splendour of one of too many landmark sight to take in. Get the bill and appreciate why it’s on of the richest cities……
    We might never be back, so let’s get in and enjoy. We certainly are.
    So much to see here. I’m “just a suburban boy” so no surprise my neck hurts from looking this way and that. Wonderful.

    Couple of travel details. Jump off another on time fast-train expecting to “grab a cab”. Um. The queue is about 60 cabs worth of people with suitcases. Let’s start walking!
    Good call, as we were at the apartment with 25 mins of suitcase bouncing cobble stoned footpaths including photo ops.

    Highlights? Cathedral, leather products, gelato, energy of the street, architecture (grand and ancient), wonder (at how residents adapt to the intensity of cities like this)
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  • Asciano & Siena

    8 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Contrast

    Staying in Asciano with Izzy and Scott in a farmhouse about 2k out of town, surrounded by the rolling hills of Tuscany.
    A visit to Siena flips the switch back to the buzz of a tourist town.
    Siena is special to me because it is the finish town of one of my favourite professional bike races, Strade Bianche (the white roads). It covers 215k, dotted with punchy climbs and about a third on the white gravel roads. There are 11 climbs in the last 30k with the final into Siena. It’s only 0.7k at 9.1% gradient, with the road surface of ancient block cobbles before dropping into the Piazza del Campo for the finish line. It is ranked in the top 5 of one day Pro races. Tadej Pagačar, aka The Pog, and Slovenian cyclist mentioned in earlier posts, won here at the March 2024 edition.
    We had left our car on the edge of town. As we are walking into the centre I recognise a stone arch here and then a street corner, followed by a steep pinch in the road. I had to pinch myself. I was actually following the parcours of the Strade. Cool! The finish in the piazza makes for a spectacular sporting arena, the bowl of Piazza del Campo overlooked by Palazzo Pubblico and crammed with cycling tiffosi. I got goosebump, and there wasn’t a bicycle in sight. I Imagine race day in March.
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  • Spartacus

    9 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Another cycling moment.

    Walking to the town on the road with a name that might be longer than the road itself. Strade Communial di Monte Sante Marie Torre a Castello. Whew. It’s one of the white gravel roads of Tuscany. We came across a monument stone, dedicated to Fabian Cancellara AKA “Spartacus”. (For non cyclists, he is a professional cyclist, now retired, of incredible stature). He has the record for the most victories at Strade Bianche at three, and is reported to love the place. Fortunately for the race commentators this sector of gravel is briefly called Monte Sante Marie which is 11.5 k of hilly gravel starting at kilometer 130.
    So, he is a super hero, and now his name is on a big block of rock.
    Cool hey?
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  • Riva del Garda

    14 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Gorgeous and popular town on the north of Lake Garda which is overlooked by the Venetian Prealps with mint Baldo prominent.
    Our stay for 3 nights is in the old town on a narrow street near the harbour.
    Walking, eating, meandering, marvelling, drinking sightseeing, planning.
    Some features:
    - old town surrounding the harbour used for work and play.
    - impossibly steep glacially shaped mountains drop into the town and National Park fringed Lago di Garda.
    - colourful night time lighting on Chapel Santa Barbara and Castle (Belvedere della Grola) perched on high.
    - Bicycles everywhere. Cargo bikes, knock about town bikes, very high end roadies, gravel and bike packers, and the hum of e-bikes (we will have a close encounter later). More than 20 bike hire outlets in and around town.
    - farming of apples/grapes/olives. The scale of the first two is huge. Not as huge as pizza production bi still big.
    - spectacular sunset down the lake. No pics as both phones were dead after a long day of cyclo-touristing.
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  • Back on the bike

    14 Oktober 2024, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Just for a day - but what a day.
    In for a penny - in for a pound. We hire dual suspension Mountain Bikes. Armed with a map of the “Gravel” trails (low confidence in our MTB skills) we set off into the wilderness.

    https://www.gardatrentino.it/en/outdoor/bike/cy…

    The map guides is along bike tracks, quiet rural road, even quieter town streets, farm trails and walking tracks. The maps connections are amazing and are obviously the product of a lot of work.
    Soon the throng of holiday makers on the lakeside is gone and it’s quiet.
    The terrain is pretty tough and we are happy for batteries when the gradients are frequently at 18%+.
    The are plenty of villages to visit - a coffee stop or two - a wine - a beer later in the ride.
    Plenty of vistas to ohh-and-ahh at.
    Descents that leave a massive grin.
    Finish the day with flat phones and 8% left in the bike battery. Sadly no photos of the climb of Ponale up the precipitous lakeside. Just a contemplative moment with Regina Mundi (photo)
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  • Innsbruck

    15 Oktober 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Bye Bye Italy.

    Oh my, how much do we love traveling and not having to fly or use an EV?

    A bus and a couple of trains and we are in another country and a new exciting and very different city. Innsbruck Austria. Different, but similar.
    Some similarities with differences: Surrounded by mountains with some peaks to 2,600 meters. Most advertising and business signage is now in Gothic script. Population of 230k, yet often the streets have so few people. Autumnal colours. There are strudel shops everywhere. We found a Schnitzel restaurant, but that was only exciting to half our travel group of two. As you would expect, there are churches. Some like Dom St Jakob show how rich the Hapsburg’s et.al were. Conquering and colonising and religion were pretty good for business.
    Still more of “same but different”: It’s a bike city. This city is somehow more formal, so are the bike riders. The cycle infrastructure is more structured and the riders follow “normal” road rules, but they are still offered more courtesy by motorists and given more priority via the infrastructure (you might need to be a bike rider to understand that point) than we are used to at home in Aus.

    We love trains so much we took a side trip today. We found ourselves in the ski town of Seefeld in Tirol. Innsbruck’s elevation is 550 meters, Seefeld is 1,200 meters. That’s 650m gain in 20k, but most remarkable is the section with many tunnels along the perpendicular rock face of the Martinswand. It is an exciting train ride over such an impressively engineered route. It’s a contradiction to feel so precarious yet safe and comfortable (and clean, and on time - we are in Austria)

    It’s a bit sad that when we leave Innsbruck tomorrow, we will also be saying goodbye to The Alps. We will miss those big mountains.
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  • München

    18 Oktober 2024, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A detour to visit an old friends of Ian’s. Anthony left Aus about 35 years ago, and eventually found himself firmly rooted in München in the late 90‘s. Anthony introduced Ian to Sabine about 2005 and we have not had a face to face since. It was fun to bunk in with Anthony and sample Euro big city lifestyle.
    All the happy characteristics are there, like cafes that serve beer, supermarkets serve beer (really cheaply), Bierhaus that server beer, and even better Biergarten which actually serve lots of beer, in big glasses in a very relaxed atmosphere. I am sure other stuff was also going on that May come to me shortly. Of course! It’s Live music. We had to let a few shows go past, but we did get to see Wha Zho play in a community hall which sometimes houses kids activities, but tonight was serving beer. Avantgarde two piece of bass and drums. Great fun.
    The Biergartens have a very interesting characteristic where you will find some tables with tablecloths and some without. If you sit at a tablecloth you will receive table service. No service for a bare table, but you can bring your own food and drink if you like. The Biergarten in Viktualienmarkt is located in the middle of a permanent market place providing plenty of options. Believe it or not, we are glad that October Fest finished a fortnight ago.

    A big city of rich history where our meanderings lead us to uncover a surprisingly large number of sad events. Exploring the 1972 Olympic precinct turned up a memorial to the victims of the terrorist attack. The White Rose museum and memorial to some of the many brave Germans who tried to resist the Nazi terrorist regime. We visit some places, events and people who fostered the rise of Adolf Hitler. The impact on the design and architecture of the city by the bombings of WWII when most of the old town was raised.

    The music scene here is very active with performances happening in some surprising locations where players pop up in different lineups. The city itself is also creative with relaxed usage arrangements for venues and the re-use of spaces. A cute one was a disused industrial space, where a heap of shipping containers were imported / stacked / modified to make a pop up retail and entertainment zone - very cool. On the infrastructure side they incinerate rubbish out of town and pipe in residual heat for public spaces and buildings.

    Of course it’s a bike city. Can I say theGermans are rule followers? It appears so, but their cyclists and motorists are a little more aggressive than their Austrian neighbours, you are not likely to hear a warning ding - so beware. Their bikes are meatier than elsewhere, just think of the difference between motoring on NSW Central Coast and Paris. On the Coast we drive both types of cars - 4x4’s and Utes, but Parisian’s prefer compact and economical town cars. Munich has big e-bikes, many cargo bikes and trailers, and options for kids or shopping,
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  • Köln

    20 Oktober 2024, Jerman ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Brief history: established by the Romans in 50CE it has been a merchant city ever since. The Cathedral took 600 years to build and narrowly avoided being flattened in WWII with the rest of the city which required massive rebuild.
    Music scene is healthy and diverse. We found ourselves in an Irish pub listening to Aussie music and a quirky Jazz bar that has had live music every day for 1,400 consecutive opening days.
    Transport hub on the river, by road and rail. The train bridge over the Rhine has 6 tracks. The quality of the train services that we have used are amazing.
    Very large Turkish population here. It the largest ethnic minority in Germany. Thank for bringing yummy food here.

    Trivia: our first train stop into the Netherlands was Arnhem. The town gave its name to a ship that sailed into the Gulf Of Carpenteria in 1623 and in turn gave its name to the massive land mass we now know and love as Arnhemland.
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  • Amsterdam

    24 Oktober 2024, Belanda ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Welcome to THE bike city.
    Centraal Station has underground parking for 12,000 bike. There are 10’s of thousands of bikes on the move around the city at any time. Parking in squares, by canals, on modified barges and house frontages accommodate many, many thousands. The industry of the city is being done by bike, with only heavy delivery’s and services using trucks. Free ferries cross the IJmeer river every couple of minutes and all are loaded with cyclists and pedestrians.
    How can we learn from the pace of Amsterdam (and many other Euro towns)? We didn’t make it to the more distant suburbs, but I hope life there is as functional.

    For the engineers or potential real estate purchasers among us, have a look at the photo collage of some canal houses. The evidence of building on land that is sinking is clear. Builders of yore recognised the boggy ground issue and drove wooden pillars for footings. Of course they rotted away long ago. You better hope previous owners have already done some underpinning. I would dread the call to the insurance company when your neighbours place starts to slump into the canal.

    So much to do here and just 4 days . Walking and riding the streets and canal edges is more than enough for us. Plus a museum and a ferry ride and sampling the cafes and bars.. and … and
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  • And then - London

    26 Oktober 2024, Inggris ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    London is our last stop on our little adventure. But happily, before we head home, we will catch up with Izzy and Scott in their Angel flat. Or is it Islington, or is it EC1. The Poms like to identify and navigate by postcode.
    So many place names. From Monopooly, from BBC Dramas, underground stations, from Royal processions, or from the sets of a hundred movies. What about the bizarre names, the outright funny or flat out smutty. I won’t make it easy for you - just Google. We came across Spitalfields, which is a fun area with bohemian shops, markets and all sorts of pop ups. So a Spital is a Highway rest stop, or a hospital for lazars (leprosy), Now it’s a groovy place to hang out with a weird name and history.
    So many landmarks. So much history in the 2000 year old town that was the centre of the world for a bit. Amazing.
    Now there are some 300 languages spoken in London. That makes It hard to chose where to eat. Harder still is that consistent across all cuisines it’s expensive to eat here.

    No photos of the Palace, Hyde or St James Parks, Trafalgar, Big Ben or a gazillion other landmarks. The challenge for our phones to chase the Vodaphone network left our batteries flat. Photo-ops missed. Next challenge then to navigate across town and multiple subway hops without Google to hold our hands. Well done us!

    Exploring a town with assistance from a local let’s you pack a lot into a single day. A long leisurely breakfast, market exploration (Brick Lane, Spitalfield, Chappell St Farmers), the finals of 3 Days of London at the Olympic Velodrome, a West End show darling, museum visit, walking into interesting nooks and crannies, a tour on an open-top double decker bus, a heater skelter Lime Bike rides in daylight and night, visits to umpteen landmarks, multi link subways, dine out for breakfasts, lunches & dinners as well as a few home cooked beauties, darts in a pub (an old game with a modern twist using an electronic multimedia board), an improv comedy gig, late night hot chocolates and a movie. Phew.
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    Akhir trip
    1 November 2024