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Japan ‘25
  • Hanna May
  • Jo May

Japan ‘25

A 21-day adventure by Hanna & Jo May Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 26, 2025
  • Japan ‘25
    Shinto ShrineJapan Stock Exchange. X's in the window grates.2Because drains don't HAVE to be ugly.1💖Imperial Gardens Entry GateGuardhouse of Imperial Gardens.2Imperial Palace Compound.Graham and Jo - First glimpse of Tokyo - Pathetic shot but I (Jo) was shot myselfVery tourist class but clean comfortable and located in a nice area.

    Wanderings

    September 28 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Wandering wandering…
    Chuyo City area.

    From Ripon to Nipon
    Okay, while Hanna was “wandering”, Graham and I were suffering the indignities of economy class air travel out of Paris. Fourteen hours (and I was counting!) to Tokyo seated in window and middle seat of a three seat arrangement. This was not ideal and because the plane was full, we couldn’t change, although I tried. Still the man from Nagoya sitting next to me in the prized aisle seat was very obliging and kind. We disturbed his flight many times but he didn’t seem to mind.
    I must say a plane full of Japanese people is very quiet. And despite being full, the toilets were always clean and surprisingly available.
    I watched a stunning little Japanese film called “Renoir” - five stars, highly recommended.

    Our taxi driver found our strange little hotel and in the process showed us the glorious lights of the Tokyo skyline. Stunning.

    Then there was Johanna at the front of the Smile Hotel. We found that we were in a pretty upmarket area by the look of the huge shopping centre at Nihonbashi. There we had a lovely dinner of delicious but unnameable Vietnamese food - we could have just about any national food ( including Brazilian). A foodies paradise. The weather was warm and muggy with the occasional cool breeze when the buildings allowed. Tomorrow Nagano by bullet train.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    Booking agent for train tickets inside our cafe at Tokyo. Talk about convenience!
    Hitchhiking again!Seats in Green section - why can't we have trains like these?Unbelievable leg room in reclining seats with footrests and free wifiTokyo from the train leaving for NaganoGraham says hello to goddess at Nagano StationWe start our walk up towards Zenkoji TempleMarket closing as we passed byMagic Moment!Street art outside a Primary school with weather threatening rainJohanna bought a sweet- yes this is food Japanese styleZenkoji Temple GatesZoom in to see the fearsome effigy forbidding evil spirits to enterTemple road with marketsTree being supported to give us shadeTurtles sunning themselvesFootpath detailWoman with childBeautiful isn't it?Into the gardens on the way to the art galleryNagano Art Gallery - a different kind of temple?1The book in the centre is called "The Deconstruction of the World"Contemplation Space in the GalleryOutdoor area on the Gallery roof where we had our light lunch.

    To Nagano!

    September 29 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This morning in Nihonbashi we convened around 9 am in our “room” (tiny cell like structure with a bathroom with an elevated floor) to make our plan. This involved walking to the Tokyo Main Station - 15 minutes away; breakfasting at the appropriately named Rail Cafe; and then buying our tickets on the Bullet train for today’s journey to Nagano and tomorrow’s journey to Kyoto. Everything is so well managed and maintained that this proved pretty effortless. Brilliant, five stars Japan!

    The trip to Nagano the next day went effortlessly and our hotel, the Sotetsu Frésia Inn was only a couple of minutes from the station. We checked in and then went out for a walk up towards the Zenkoji Temple. It was already late the afternoon so we knew it was useless to try to see the temple itself. We were instead in pursuit of great coffee.

    This led to our first Magic Moment at the Sunday Love Coffee cafe, a tiny hole in the universe where we were met with intelligence, grace and warmth. This cafe is only open three days a week. The charismatic owner and maestro grinds every bean himself, filters the coffee into a beaker and presents it with love. We sat there at his bar with five stools and, with the only other longtime customer, a beautiful woman, we conducted a fun fractured conversation across our language barriers. I will never forget this place!

    We abandoned the idea of Matsumoto Castle for the next day, and decided that our only half day at Nagano should be devoted to the sprawling Buddhist Zenkoji Temple Complex and the nearby Art Gallery.

    Zenkoji Temple was founded in 642 AD by Yoshimitsu Honda. The complex itself begins at the main gates where fearsome effigies repel evil spirits. From there s rather marvellous and seductive market lines either side of the road up to the main temple itself.

    Here were had another Magic Moment when we turned the huge sutra wheel, a large, octagonal, revolving sūtra holder located in the Kyōzō (sutra house), also known as the Rinzo or Sutra Case. We were allowed to rotate the heavy wooden arm of the case, which contains a complete collection of Buddhist scriptures. This apparently would let us gain the same spiritual blessing as reciting all the sutras themselves. We also witnessed a service with the monks chanting, sounding bells and drums, in the main temple building. Fascinating!

    The day was warm and sunny, and once the crowds began to thicken we decided that the art gallery would be appropriate! Such a change of pace from the temple, The spare clean lines of the art gallery provides the antithesis (anti-thesis) to the highly stylised and ornately decorated temple. They share the same geography but not the same air: the one heavy with human longings and it must be said, commerce; the other rarified almost to abstraction.

    We had a light meal on the art gallery terrace overlooking the temple and the ring of heavily wooded hills that frame this pretty little city. Then it was time to catch our train further south to Kyoto. Four or so hours later we washed up at this most vibrant and ancient capital of Japan. Wow!    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    1@sunday_life_coffee
    Microsoft Translate FTW!Nagano Hills Hotel Views2

    A Tiny Coffee Shop and Michael Buble

    September 29 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Walking Nagano streets
    Following coffee reviews -
    A blink and you’ll miss it door
    To a tiny coffee loving world
    Serenaded by Bubes (Michael Buble).
    Five seats, and a regular patron already there.
    Fumbling translations,
    Hand ground beans,
    Smiles and an ancient globe
    That lacked Australia and Japan.
    Unity is wherever you look.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    Shimogamo Jinja - Gate from street
    Shrine within a shrineGold lanterns in a lineInside the central court of the ShrineInner central pavilionHow to conduct oneself at this part of the shrineThe main shrineOrchestrated peacefulnessLine and length, lovey perspective1Graham in dragLove this tree!Colours!Four young women in traditional dressThe gate out ...Saki as offerings to the godsOn the way outStream through the forestOn the outside of the shrineFancy rope work on a suburban shrineStream through parkThe Royal ParkPalace wallsPalace gate

    Kyoto Pt 2: A Shrine and A Royal Park

    October 1 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    This morning we had jobs to do: washing clothes, booking accommodations - here for an extra night on Friday; and Hiroshima for the three nights - and generally planning the next couple of days. Once we’d tidied up these tasks, our plan for our afternoon was decided.
    1. We visited one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan called Shimogamo Shrine. The Shrine is one of a pair constructed in the sixth and seventh centuries. The vibe there was so different from yesterday’s Buddhist Temple. Very quiet, very neat and organised, and aesthetically very beautiful, this seemed more disciplined and less messily human. Monks in white clothing led tour groups or were just going about their business. A magic moment was catching sight of four young women in traditional dress going through one of the main gates.
    2. After a lovely light lunch in one of the tiny idiosyncratic cafes that seem to abound in Kyoto, we walked on to the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden which surrounds the Imperial Palace. Now imperial power is always underscored by an assertion of spatial dominance, especially the frivolous use of lands that would otherwise be farmed or grazed. Such use of space emphasises separation, seclusion, and exclusion. Thus this 65-hectare national garden surrounds not one but two palaces each with blank walls. The most striking aspect to me was the lack of formal gardens so beloved in Europe, and the ways in which some sections seem to be left to fallow. A different aesthetic certainly.
    It was a lovely afternoon. Tomorrow promises more delights!    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    From the taxi near the Bamboo Forest
    The Bamboo GroveOn the way up - a Babel of peopleEntering the Tenryu-ji Temple just near the Bamboo ForestView from above the templeStairway at the TempleThe Frog PondStream flowing down the hillpond in the shape of the Chinese character kokoro or “enlightened heart”.Another shot of this beautiful pond "enlightened heart"Magnificent mossesShaved ice with fruit flavourings plus dumplingAfternoon tea at Kyoto main stationJohanna's afternoon teaDessert for three at the Smile Chocolate cafeGyoza HeavenBasque CakesOkonomiyakiAkushu Miyajima

    Green Groves and Sweet Food

    October 2 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Kyoto. Hai!

    A Sweet Day!
    Today we went to the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. Stunning stands of huge bamboo plants frame this path. This was a beautiful introduction to this sacred area.

    Then we visited the Tenryu-ji Temple or “Temple of the Heavenly Dragon” established in 1339. Set in a magnificent ancient garden the temple has numerous buildings and at its heart, a pond in the shape of the Chinese character kokoro or “enlightened heart”.Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    A leaping fox ushers us in to the shrine
    The first gate - the climb will occasionally wipe our smiles awayThe main shrine with lots of people2The map of the pilgrims' wayWe make a start - look at the handsome foxOne stern chap at the entranceMagnificent foxEven sterner chap on the other side - Behave or else, he is saying!Next level ...2nd gate, all's wellWe start to lose countUp and upThen the people start to thin. Sometimes going up you have to go down. There's a moral there perhapsA staging point: the view of Kyoto gets biggerThe mountain greenery is fragrant and coolingLooking back.Looking up!Natty costume eh?Periodic water stations for washing your handsAt the end a nurturing imageA lovely little cafeRespite on the canalThe best açai bowl I've ever had!A really truly Japanese sushi restaurant1

    When one gate is barely enough

    October 3 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Climbing Mt Inari
    As the sign read when we entered the grounds of this world famous place today: “The grounds of the Fushimi Inari Taisha are a sacred area that has been a space for worship for more than a millennium, ever since the shrine was founded in AD 711.” A Shinto Shrine famous for its thousands of torii gates, dedicated to Inari, the god of rice. To climb through the gates to the top of Mt Inari is a pilgrimage and results in great blessings. The gates are also decorated with many fox statues. These foxes are divine messengers who protect the prosperity of the rice harvest, often holding symbolic items in their mouths, such as a key to a rice storehouse or a gem representing the spirit of Inari. They were all dressed in some way, some with natty red capes or little hats etc.

    Always up for a good round of blessings, we decided to complete this massive climb, a circuit of approximately 5 kilometres, passing through a thousand Torii gates. Quite a few hours later we finally did, proud of ourselves but with aching feet. The way was very crowded but the higher we went the fewer people we encountered. The mountain, and probably time constraints, stopped most pilgrims from completing the circuit. We finished with a refreshing coffee and snacks in lieu of lunch in another of those small, but perfectly formed, little one person cafes that seem characteristic of Kyoto. I had the best Açai bowl ever! (Fruit has been in short supply on this trip - and I love fruit!)

    As we left the area at dusk, people were still pouring in to see the torii gates - and as our Uber driver observed, none of them Japanese. Which is sad.

    After checking in to our hotel, we rested, showered and went out to an excellent sushi bar Hanna found, called Sushi Nomusashi. I have never been to a sushi restaurant before and while I would not choose this form of eating for myself, I found a few dishes I could savour, mainly vegetarian. Graham and Johanna had an excellent meal. So I can now say that I have eaten proper sushi prepared in Japan.

    Tomorrow we bullet train to Hiroshima. We will stay there 3 nights in a hotel. As a student of history, having studied the historical controversy over the dropping of nuclear bombs in 1945, this will be especially fascinating.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    Our bullet train approaches. We line up for our carriage.
    Shinkansen ticket, pretty envelope for ticket, cleansing cloth.Next town from KyotoWe begin to see countrysideGreen fieldsWe cross many rivers and streams on our way southAnd pass many stations without stopping as we gather speed.Himeji - bustling townHeavily wooded Mountains come into viewFarmlandsOkayamaOkayama againOkayama - a "Happy Town"Bizen - ShigeyamaKurashiki looks pleasantMiharaComing into Hiroshima on Saturday, a baseball game is gathering peopleIt's raining in Hiroshima but people are going to the game!More folk moving to the baseball fieldThe cabin empty now as we leave the train.1From tunnel to light to tunnel at nearly 300 klms an hour

    Aboard the Nozomi 63: A Photo Essay

    October 4 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    We left Kyoto for Hiroshima happy with what we had seen and experienced. The station was heavily packed with people as usual. We managed to get a coffee before we boarded our bullet train. What a brilliant way to travel! Clean, safe, well staffed, the Japanese take great care and this is obvious at all times.Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    Downtown Hiroshima at the start of our walk.
    Walking up Peace Boulevard in the shade of the trees.Crossing the bridge with the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum ahead.History of the Park and the MuseumHiroshima Peace Memorial ParkHiroshima Memorial Peace MuseumEntering the exhibitionThe ruins after the bombThe shadow of a man who was sitting on the steps of the Hiroshima post officeA Buddha almost blown awayFused ink bottles from an ink factory such was the heat of the blastA dollSome of Sadako's cranes from her medicine wrappersThe cenotaph with eternal flame. Taken from inside the museumThe bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki1Shame on us.The Cenotaph up closeThe Children's Peace Memorial with thousands of folded cranes behindStatue of a Prayer for Peace, Peace Park, HiroshimaAtomic Bomb Dome, HiroshimaArt Gallery - Cafe Jardin where we had lunch far from the madding crowdsArt GalleryHiroshima Castle - a giant replicaInside Hiroshima CastleGrounds of the Castle inside the moat

    Hiroshima- A City Dedicated To Peace

    October 5 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We are staying at the Hiroshima Tokyu REI Hotel, very comfortable, quiet and convenient. The hotel is located on Peace Boulevard, only a short walk away from the magnificent Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum and Peace Park, as well as close to a host of fine eateries, shopping centres and cultural activities.

    It is now 80 years since the dropping of a uranium atomic bomb on Hiroshima on 6 August 1945, followed by a plutonium bomb on Nagasaki on 9 August 1945. A multitude of heart wrenching stories of the Hiroshima bombing are captured in the Museum. We went there first. At the start of the museum journey, the writing on the wall says:

    ‘A single atomic bomb indiscriminately killed tens of thousands of people, profoundly disrupting and altering the lives of survivors. Through belongings left by the victims, A-bombed artifacts, testimonies of A-bomb survivors and related materials, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum conveys to the world the horrors and the inhumane nature of nuclear weapons and spreads the message of "No more Hiroshimas."’

    The whole excellent presentation was deeply moving. It was hard to look at some exhibits. For example, the x-ray shadow of a man who had been sitting on the steps of the post office burned into the stone when the bomb exploded. I was doing okay until the story of Sadako, a young girl who suffered from blood cancers. In early August 1955, Sadako heard about an old saying, “Fold 1,000 paper cranes and your wish will come true." She began folding paper cranes using the small papers her medicine came in, and any other paper available. She folded 1,000 cranes in less than a month. After her death the Children’s Peace Movement started up and today there are folded cranes from all over the world next to its monument.

    We went from the Museum further into the beautiful Peace Park with a cenotaph to those whose lives were taken by the bomb with its eternal flame. The fabulous array of healthy trees is of special celebration in Peace Park and beyond since immediately after the atomic bombing, it was said that no plants or trees would grow for 75 years. The lush green of this part of the city developed over the last 80 years gives the lie to that thinking. The miraculous ruin of the dome that survived the bomb stands as stark reminder of the horror of the atomic bomb.

    Refreshed after a lovely western style lunch at the Cafe Jardin, a cool and classy oasis in the Hiroshima Art Gallery, we visited the final item on our itinerary for the day, the beautiful replica of the historic Hiroshima Castle. It was a great day.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25

    Miyajima

    October 6 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    For our only other full day in Hiroshima we chose to go to the sacred island of Miyajima. This involved a short train trip ( about 9 stops, ending at Miyajimaguchi Station) and a beautiful ferry ride, also short, from Miyajimaguchi.
    Here are few short facts about Miyajima Island:

    *The island’s official name is Itsukushima, but it’s commonly called Miyajima, meaning ‘Shrine Island’.

    *Miyajima is considered one of the Three Views of Japan, its three most scenic places (Nihon Sankei).

    *The island is home to wild deer believed to be messengers of the gods.

    *A flame at the Misen Hondo hall has been burning continuously for more than 1,200 years.”
    (Taken from https://www.getyourguide.com/explorer/hiroshima…)

    We had a simply great long lunch at Akushu Restaurant which consisted of a salad, a soup, a main, a bread roll, a coffee and a light sweet, all for about $45 AUS. And the presentation and service was first class.
    A fantastic day, in brilliant sunshine, topped off with Hiroshima’s specialty food, okonomiyaki, a layered pancake with cabbage, noodles, and a variety of other toppings like oysters and pork belly, served with a rich sauce. Insanely good!    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    Our digs for the next week or so.
    The bathroom!This is the first time we've had a projector tv. Very cool.First sight of Fujisan from the roadFirst sign that we were near.Fifth Station on Mt Fuji, last point for visitors by car and bus.Mt Fuji showing itself, no trees and very little vegetation from here.Mt Fuji ...Climbing Mt Fuji is a thing- of course5th Station Post Office. You can get ink stampsMap inside the Fifth Station buildingWhere we bought coffeeYou can hire one of these workers if you are willingThe start of the trek up.The trail up Mt Fuji.Inuksuk on Mt Fuji - there was a Canadian here somewhere.A path downward- lovely treesThe three of us - Happy Birthday Johanna!Our train arrives at Hiroshima bound for Tokyo. All right I get excited!

    To Tokyo and Don’t Spare the Horses

    October 8 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We spent the full day before yesterday travelling from Hiroshima to Tokyo by Shinkansen. Fabulous. And arrived at our Tokyo digs in good order and with enough juice in the tank to go out and find the supermarket (get lost a bit on the way back in the dark) and cook a light meal. After spending a bit of time getting to know our new fabulous upmarket Airbnb, we retired early because we were booked to go to Mt Fuji for Johanna’s special birthday.

    Assi, our Uzbek driver and guide, arrived on time at 9am and before we knew it, we were speeding out of Tokyo towards the magnificent hinterland and its famous volcano. Mt Fuji does not, could not, disappoint. All day, despite clouds wandering in from stage right and left, Mt Fuji showed us its impressive face. Assi assured us that we were very lucky and that often day visitors are not so lucky. I think it was because it was Johanna’s birthday and Mt Fuji was on best behaviour welcoming her and wanting her to have the best day.

    But this was only the first of the delights Assi had in store for us. Next he took us to the Mt Fujisan World Heritage Centre, followed by a recreated village that was now an open air museum. Too many good images not to share so will save them for the next post.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    The brilliant Fujisan Heritage Centre with Grahamsan
    Trees on Mt FujiBirds on Mt FujiFun FactsLava Stalagmites.Image showing the five lakes, formed out of Mt Fuji's creativityMt Fuji inspired awe and spiritualityClimbing as a pilgrimage.Fujisan on our drive to the lakesLake 1Lake 2Graham at the second lake we saw. What a view!At the village of Nenba, an open air museumThe view from NenbaNenbaA lovely screenTwo Russian girls dressed up in Kiminos and posing for one anotherAnother neat screenJust lovely. Imagine living with this view over the centuries.Corn drying on the verandah2Trees behind the villageFujisan World Heritage Display - this is only one colour palette

    Fujisan World Heritage and Nenba Village

    October 8 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After coming down the mountain, we visited the excellent Fujisan World Heritage Centre. Consisting of two halls, the Centre presents the history, geography and geology in really entertaining and informative ways. After the museum, we had lunch then we toured some of the Five Lakes that Fujisan created over time. Bearing in mind that Mt Fuji is a young volcano, and is still active!

    On the northwest side of Lake Saiko, one of the Fuji Five Lakes, and spread out across a fan-shaped area with a view of Mt. Fuji, there was a village that was once called “the most beautiful village in Japan.” This village was destroyed by a typhoon in 1966 and a way of life ended. But later it was decided to recreate as far as possible this traditional village as an open air museum with its magical view of My Fuji. Artisans labour there now and we also enjoyed watching the Russian tourists dress up in traditional dress and besport themselves for photographic opportunities. Graham assisted a few to make great memories, as we did ourselves. A really wonderful day!    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    Google translate helps at the Supermarket.
    Japanese money.

    12 Tips for Travel in Japan

    October 9 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    In no particular order:
    1. Be ready to clean up after yourself in cafes - look for the place to stow your used tray, crockery and cutlery.
    2. Carry a little towel - often there is no way to dry your hands after using the rest room.
    3. There are almost no public garbage bins in Japan. Be prepared to carry your rubbish.
    4. Smile and be polite. Japanese people will nod at you, it’s good to nod back.
    5. Take off your shoes at entry to private residences and some public buildings like shrines and temples.
    6. At home, Japanese people do not wash the dishes by immersion in the sink. There will be no plug. Use the sponge with detergent to clean item and rinse with running water.
    7. Maybe also carry small pack of toilet tissue for emergency use in public restrooms.
    8. Taxis often have self opening back doors- don’t use the handles.
    9. In shops and taxis, place money for payment on the tray provided unless otherwise indicated.
    10. Use as much of the language as you can manage.
    11. Have some cash. Cash is more widely used than you might suspect.
    12. Google maps and Google translate are your friends!
    When in Rome, do as the Romans do. When in Japan, do as the Japanese do.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    We took the train to Shibuya - what an adventure!
    This wall says: "Information is power"!Lots of video displays at Shibuya CrossingEntering the beautiful Myashita Park BuildingA climbing wall in the aerial park on top of the buildingMyashita Park - a place out of the Scramble1ArtThe Shibuya Station entryMachi the Amazing DogGetting ready to scrambleBefore armies of people engage at the ScrambleOpposing forcesThe Scramble from the L'occitane cafeThe street that never sleepsEven higher above the Scramble at ShibuyaNight falls and the city lights upAnd changes colourAgain ...People going home dreaming of glass canyons and bright lights

    Scramble at Shibuya

    October 10 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We had a simply brilliant time at Shibuya. The famous crossing does not disappoint. We were fortunate to have Johanna with us because she showed us the magnificent Miyashita Park, a garden on top of a building complete with climbing wall and skate park. There we had a coffee far above the mad crowds below. Afterwards we went to a charming restaurant in the L'Occitane Cafe on the second floor above the Crossing where we were able to observe the famous goings-on below as the lights changed. It looked like armies massing for a battle, except once they reach each other a friendly type of osmosis occurred and the waves gradually reached the desired roadside shores. I bought some beautiful eau de toilette called "Rose" and felt very cosmopolitan! There followed some browsing in the department store called Loft. A brilliant shop and I was sorry I didn't need anything! The day finished with dinner in a Spanish Restaurant in another very new glasss tower with an amazing view over the area. It was fun to see the lights of Tokyo ready to receive all of the party goers thereabouts.
    Soon Johanna will depart for home and we will be left to our own devices and will probably have what we call "adventures" (ie getting lost) since we won't have her expertise - and her Uber app! The latter has been a godsend throughout Japan and saved our aching legs on many occasions!
    Later, on Hanna's recommendation, we watched the western version of the film "Hachi", the Japanese Akita dog whose statue graces Shibuya Station and always has a long line of people trying to snap his photograph. Hachiko was a born in 1923 and is probably the most famous dog in Japan for his remarkable loyalty and unwavering devotion to his owner, even after the owner's death. Highly recommended - we cried.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    Map of Euno Park.
    Ueno StationApproaching the Tokyo National MuseumThe pool outside of the National Museum2View from the front steps of the MuseumUp the stairs to the start of the exhibitionThe Emperor's palanquin (or yoyo) is carried at waist height.Jomon pottery- a great mysteryReligious objectsThe arrival of Buddhism brought a whole new iconographyProtector of Buddha's realm from 1271Little tea containersWater vessel for tea ceremony. It's irregularity embodies the concept of imperfect beautyBunny helmet - Rabbits were associated with fertility and agilityThe loyal vassal Tomita Tomonobu (died 1599), received this Chinese-made damask jinbaori.A beautiful screenLacquered Writing Boxes.This is a two tier makeup set for an affluent woman.Textiles and clothing as art.Made over 1,200 years ago, this is the oldest example of glazed Japanese pottery.Blue and white Shoki-Imari Hare Dish, Edo Period 1630-40Kingfisher plate cunningly mended with gold.Indigenous dress.Charming representationOfficials outside the gallery say goodbyeThese two landscapes of autumn and winter were achieved with gentle brushstrokes usually seen in ink

    Tokyo National Museum, Ueno Park

    October 12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Yesterday we ventured again to our local train station, the almost unpronounceable Takadanobaba, aka “baba” to me. There we achieved the major feat of buying our tickets and finding our platform without Johanna’s expert guidance. Our goal was Ueno station, a magnificent new station facing the fabulous Ueno Park. It was Sunday and the place was buzzing with excitement- all kinds of people and their dogs were out for the day. This is because Ueno Park had a huge hot food market happening as well as being home to art, cultural and science museums and galleries, a huge zoo, a lake, a festival hall, walks and so on (see the photo I took of our map from the Park Information Booth). Our goal was the Tokyo National Museum, also inside the park.

    We learned as we toured the two huge floors of the main building at the Tokyo National Museum (there are several huge buildings) that upper class Japanese people would change their style and colour of robes and lutensils for tea ceremonies etc with the seasons. This awareness of the aesthetic qualities of the changing weather was reflected in their style of painting and their keen interest in representing animals, trees, and flowering plants, especially pairings of birds and flowers. We read: “Fascinated by the splendor of the four seasons, Japanese audiences also enjoyed landscapes depicting mountains and streams colored by seasonal blooms.” The exhibitions at the museum mirrored this seasonal responsiveness by often presenting autumn items. Overall the items presented begin 13,000 years ago, when people built the first permanent settlements, and end with the 17th-19th centuries, when cities grew and urban culture flourished. We thus viewed items from the earliest Neolithic excavations, through to religious iconography over time, as well as the development of Japanese pottery (especially for the traditional tea ceremony), clothing and textiles, screen painting, metal work, furniture and manufacture for warfare (helmets, swords, armour etc). It was huge - and hugely informative.

    We had coffee before we started and had a lovely conversation with an Australian couple, then later lunch at the Museum restaurant. Graham the traditional menu, with delicate little bits of raw tuna, prawns, pork etc. He is a brave gourmand. I had two spring rolls, a small bowl of fried rice and noodle soup - I mistakenly thought I was in China!
    A great day ended with a light meal at home, and a charming free YouTube video called “The Peanut Butter Falcon” ( 2019). All’s well that ends well.    Read more

  • Japan ‘25
    A number of gates pace the spiritual journey towards the shrine.
    Lanterns decorate the greenA charming bridge over the streamThe stream - so picturesqueWe have coffee on the terrace.Barrels of Sake as Spiritual TributeWine from Bourgogne, FranceHe knew I was taking his pictureEntry to the ShrineAn entry to the internal courtyardA special pair of trees, "husband & wife", symbols of happiness.About the husband and wife camphor treesPerspective if you please - love these lanternsA door into the courtyardTea house in the internal gardenThe Meiji Emperor's fishing spot.Ancient BonsaiThe fishing pondCan you spot the blue egret?Part of the Iris gardenA bouquet of Fungi (or fun guys)Autumn colour starting to emergeThe only flower on displayBack to Harajuku Station and home to pack.

    Last Post: The Meiji Shrine & Gardens

    October 14 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    For our last full day in Japan we chose to visit one of the must see historic places in Tokyo. This is the Meiji Jingu, a shrine of national prayer for peace and prosperity. According to the sign as we entered, it “was built as a result of combined efforts of all the Japanese to commemorate Emperor Meiji’s virtues” - and those of his consort Empress Shoken. It was established on 1st November 1920. The Emperor and Empress were heavily involved in the modernisation of Japan after 1868. They adopted western dress, drank wine and advocated education. They also advocated gentleness and piety. They both visited this place when it became an imperial park, and were involved in its creation. What is amazing is that since was created, the forest now looks and functions as a naturally occurring forest where endangered species now live.
    A beautiful way to end this amazing journey to Japan.

    On Meiji Jingu Garden from the sign in the park: “This Garden was originally a part of compounds of a daimyo yashiki (a feudal lord's mansion) owned by the lis. Since the beginning of the Meiji Era (1868~) it became the Imperial estate and was put improvements into by the order of His Majesty the Emperor Meiji. Her Majesty the Empress Shöken as well as His Majesty frequented this historic place. It spreads 83,000 square metres …”    Read more

    Trip end
    October 16, 2025
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