Terlingua, Tx. (Pop. 78-Ghost Town)

Pilot Travel Center treated us well. We were also treated to the thunder of several motorcycles arriving during the night, along with a number of semi-trucks. In reality, we slept through most of it and quickly drifted back to sleep after each disturbance.

In the morning, we headed into the truck stop to grab our coffee, which we enjoyed before hitting the road. We had about 185 miles to cover and all day to reach our destination, so we took our time.

Our first stop was Marfa, a small town with a population of around 1,900. We had read about its thriving art scene and were excited to see what the buzz was about. Dana found Sentinel Coffee House, and we decided to start there. It did not disappoint—it might just be the best coffee shop we’ve visited on this trip. The ambience was amazing, a mix of Southwest charm, Mexican flair, and an artsy vibe that tied it all together beautifully. We were pleasantly surprised and loved exploring all the small, thoughtful touches that made the place feel special.

After Sentinel, we wandered around the downtown area. Some of the buildings were cool, but most of them were closed, and we didn’t find anything particularly notable. South of town, we came across a glamping complex with funky RVs, yurts, teepees, and other unique overnight spots. They were a bit pricey, but very cool to see.

Next, we made our way to Alpine, a town of about 7,000, also known for its artistic leanings. We found an ice cream shop and enjoyed our treats in a breezy, slightly chilly park. While walking around, we stumbled upon Vise Coffee and decided to give it a try. The bagel and coffee were good, but it didn’t quite measure up to Sentinel.

I headed back to the PLUM for a nap, while Dana kept exploring. She discovered that for much of Alpine's history, the town was divided—literally—by a set of railroad tracks. The Mexican population was forced to live south of the tracks and needed permits to cross into the non-Mexican part of town. Ironically, this land once belonged to Mexico, until war and politics changed its fate. In many ways, it feels like not much has changed over the past hundred years.

From Alpine, we headed south to Terlingua, a ghost town that once boomed during the 19th-century quicksilver rush. When the quicksilver boom ended, the town was quickly abandoned. Today, aside from offering lodging for Big Bend National Park visitors, there isn’t much going on. We found the Starlight Theater, which was basically our only dining option. Dana had read that we should arrive before 5:00 p.m., when the doors open, as a line typically forms early. I chuckled—it was a Tuesday night; how busy could it really be? Turns out, very busy. We got there at 4:45, and there was already a decent line forming. That just goes to show how much I don’t know.

We waited about 15 minutes for a table and were soon seated. I ordered the Antelope Burger with sweet potato fries, while Dana went for the brisket tacos. Both were excellent choices.

After dinner, we stopped in at an old historic cemetery. It was started in the early 1900s and is still used for burials. It was a fascinating experience. On the one hand it seemed quite chaotic but on the other hand, there was a certain beauty and creativity in its apparent randomness. Who says all cemetery plots need to be neatly laid out in perfect rows?

We left the cemetery and headed back to our motel—a simple, no-frills place that reminded us of the old mom-and-pop motels from the '60s and '70s. It’s clean but definitely outdated. Still, it was less than half the price of the other places we looked into, so we’re happy with it and expect to sleep well tonight.

You're here to defend the defenseless, to make sure that underdogs get a fair break; Your job is to stand up for the powerless, and prosecute all those who exploit them." Psalm 82:3-4Læs mere