Sanderson, Tx. (Pop. 716)

The alarm rang at 6:00 a.m., and I was up and ready to get the coffee brewing. I walked over to the PLUM, fired up the stove, and soon we were sitting on the chairs outside our motel room. Neither of us had slept well, but the coffee helped clear the fog and cobwebs from our minds. The sun was just beginning to push back the darkness, and soon we were in our vehicle, heading toward Santa Elena Canyon.

The canyon trailhead is located at the far western edge of the park and features a trail about a mile long. It took us around 45 minutes to get there. We ate a quick sandwich, packed water and snacks into the backpack, and set out along a small, mostly dry riverbed. We knew we had to cross the river but couldn’t immediately see where the trail continued on the other side, so we spent a few minutes searching. We saw several people across the river and heard a woman call out instructions: “Head down to where the river dries up, cross over, and you’ll see a gnarly tree coming out of the side of the bank—about eight feet straight up. Use the branches to pull yourself up, and then you’ll see the path.” We followed her directions and were soon on the trail.

Not long after, I noticed another woman also trying to find the path, so I shouted the same instructions: “Head down to where the river dries up…” Before long, she was behind us on the trail. As we reached the end, we all converged—us, the woman we’d helped, and a family from the UK (parents now living in the U.S., with their daughter still in the UK). We chatted and admired the stunning beauty of the canyon, which made us all feel small and in awe. On the way back, we walked with Carolyn, a solo traveler from Washington state spending four days in Big Bend National Park. She had plans to do plenty of hiking before heading home.

After the canyon, we drove to the Chisos Basin Overlook. It was impressive, though the drive there might’ve been more exciting than the overlook itself.

Next, we went to the Rio Grande Overlook. We expected a view of the river, but it turned out to be more of a valley view—nice, but underwhelming compared to what we had imagined.

Our next stop was the Big Bend Hot Springs. By this time, the temperature had climbed, and the sun was intense. We drove the PLUM a mile down a bumpy gravel road, only to come across a sign saying that vehicles with dual wheels couldn’t proceed. So we parked and began walking. It was hot, and a few cars passed us until a couple in a truck kindly stopped and offered us a ride—we were grateful. We’d planned to get into the water, but with the air temperature over 90°F and the springs at 105°F, it didn’t seem very appealing. When we got there, it just didn’t feel inviting, so we found some shade before starting the hike back. About halfway along, a jeep with four passengers (a little younger than us) pulled up and offered us a ride. The woman in the back jumped out and sat on her husband’s lap up front so we could hop in. We felt a little guilty but were thankful for the lift.

After leaving the springs, we headed out of the park toward our destination for the day: Sanderson, about 130 miles away. I had contacted a pastor from a local church that offers space to cyclists passing through, and we’d also been invited to their Wednesday Bible study—which we accepted. We arrived in Sanderson, grabbed a bite to eat, cleaned up, and showed up for the study at 6:00. Everyone was kind and welcoming, though it did feel a bit awkward walking in like that—but we went anyway.

Afterward, the pastor and his wife sat with us at a picnic table, and we listened to him speak. He moved from one topic to the next with the ease of a trapeze artist grabbing bars midair after spins and flips. It was impressive, in a way, though a bit much to take in after a long day. Still, they were incredibly kind people.

Now, we’re settling down for the night.

Kindness also means listening to someone talk too much without judging, or at least trying not to judge. Quote from Myron BontragerLeggi altro