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Panama and Columbia
  • Tom Fulham
  • Marcia Fulham
  • Tom Fulham
  • Marcia Fulham

Panama and Columbia

An open-ended adventure by Tom & Marcia Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 6, 2026
  • Panama and Columbia
    Tiniest meal I've ever had on a plane but the beef, rice and plantains were delicious!
    2In from of the canal Administration HQ2Inspiring words from TR

    Panama is even more interesting than exp

    February 9 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Our first impressions of Panama are highly positive — architecture, history, and charm. They bill the country as the place where the world meets — “a land divided, the world united.”

    Approximately 34 ships transit the canal each day. We saw a grain carrier, a car carrier, 2 container ships, and 2 sailboats pass through the 2 locks at Miraflores in a little over an hour. It’s quite an operation, with 4 locomotives on each side of the canal to hold the ship in place so that it doesn’t hit the side of the canal. At least 2 Panamanian pilots and as many as 4, take each ship through the canal. The entire transit takes about 10 hours.

    We also toured the previous American zone, with its Victorian administrative buildings and houses. Looked similar to the American military tropical architecture at Pearl Harbor. I loved it!

    Saw a great IMAX movie narrated by Morgan Freeman showed the history off the canal, quite a feat. It was started by Teddy Roosevelt in 1904 and completed in 1914.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    1With David our driver at the now eradicated Chinese workers memorial
    TR hissef2The rear end of the Chinese EV

    Distrito de Panamá

    February 9 in Panama ⋅ 🌙 25 °C
  • Panama and Columbia
    2

    Distrito de Panamá

    February 10 in Panama ⋅ 🌙 25 °C
  • Panama and Columbia
    1Fort San Lorenzo diorama at the mayory. It really was important.
    1948 Opel Kadet. There were to be 7 more cars arriving later.A sloth mural outside the chocolate store1Monument to the French. Lots of heroic efforts doomed by poor leadership.1If it's French, it must have bare breasted womenThe new cityThe Bougainvillea Arbor and muralA pre-Columbian frog whistle at the National Theater museum.1National Theater lobbyPrecipe at St Filip Neri. Mary & Jose traded the manger for a palazzo porticoPrecipe at the Cathedral. Gotta have pyramids for the flight to Egypt.2CorchoOlives in Vinaigrette. Simple but tastyPorcini Croquettes

    Casco Antiguo

    February 11 in Panama ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Spent a lovely day on our own roaming the byways of the Old City (est. ca. 1835). Breakfast at Alura, a coffee house recco'd by our driver. A nice place (see Marcia's cup) with good service.
    Then in rapid desultory fashion: the hotel d'ville museo, Panama Chocolate (yes!), Plaza Frances, the Bougainvillea Arbor, National Theater, St Filip Neri Church, Independence Plaza and the Cathedral.
    Back to the hotel for Thu & Fri signups and then wandering the other side of town (not as nice).
    Supper at a hole-in-the-wall Corcho (Cork) which was unexpectedly Ab-Fab. Tapas, good reasonably priced wine, great food and conversation friendly.
    Tomorrow: Boat Trip!    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    Bridge of the Americas
    The colorful building is the Frank Gehry designed BiomuseoThe entry to the new Miraflores locksOur approach to the old Miraflores locksThe doors open to welcome us1A canal transistor before the water risesOn to the upper lockThe upper lock fills, but the outer door was never emptiedWe join the crowd at Pedro Miguel1Chips for sale on the boat. I might suggest changing the nameThe Bastille Street framed by the pylons of the Centennial BridgeWhen there is hazardous cargo (oil), a tug will accompanyCulebra Cut, East sideThis part of the Cut looks like a stepped pyramidCulebra Cut, West sideA quite large LPG tanker. She'll use the new locks!Our vessel

    Locks & Lakes of Panama

    February 12 in Panama ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Fab day today of both weather and activities; got some underway time to boot!
    We picked up a 1/2 day Canal excursion at Flamenco Island Marina by Panama Marine Adventures. Our vessel, appropriately the Pacific Queen, was only 1/3 full but even still we had the best seats over the bow.
    Departing the marina, we picked up our Pilot and went under the Bridge of the Americas right into the lower level of the Miraflores Locks. We were lucky in that they took us and another tour vessel (nowhere near as nice as the PQ) by ourselves for both of these locks.
    The Miraflores Locks put us on Miraflores Lake which is fed by the Rio Grande and is on the eastern side of the Continental Divide.
    Next up were the Pedro Miguel Locks but by this time we caught up with the MV Bastille Street, a tanker, with which we were obliged to share the lock.
    At Miraflores, we easily fit inside both of the inner doors, so the Canal Authority kept the water level up to save water ( see photo). This was not the case at Pedro M. where our lock mate was 180 meters.
    Pedro empties onto Gatun Lake; although it is the east side of the Divide, the Culebra (formerly Gaillard) Cut allows the lake to pass through the Divide and link up with Pedro.
    Side note: the French plan was to dam the unruly Chagres high up in the mountains; John Stevens figured out that it could create a lake for passage rather than have to dig a whole bunch more canal.
    Passing through the Cut was an experience. It is hard to imagine and harder to describe the Herculean effort required to open the passage. I recommend David McCullough's "Path Between the Seas" for a detailed account.
    Lastly, we passed the Chagres River where it now empties into Gatun Lake. Our trip concluded at Gamboa where we were bussed back to the marina. A wholly satisfying voyage.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia

    More Locks & Lakes

    February 12 in Panama ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    I omitted that the national bird of Panama is the Harpy Eagle, the largest member of the eagle family. It can lift 1/2 it's own weight. 70% of it's diet consists of sloths which it snatches out of the trees.Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    Oxtail wonton tacos
    1Sea bass in coconut seafood cream sauceTom's sea bass with garlic sauce and vegetables

    Final thoughts on Panama

    February 12 in Panama ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    We’ve just eaten another great dinner in Panama. Shared a plate of oxtail wonton tacos— over the top delicious! — followed y sea bass in a coconut and sea food cream sauce for me and a garlic sauce for Tom. The meals here have been superb.

    Panamanians are very proud of their country’s accomplishments and are a bit puzzled by, though not fearful of, Trump’s threat to take back the Panamá Canal. The economy appears to be thriving, based on agricultural exports, growing tourism, and services like banking. The old historical city center is undergoing a renaissance.

    There was something of an apartheid system when the US operated the canal. Americans lived and worked in the Canal Zone. Locals did not enter the Zone unless specifically authorized. All of that left with the American handover of the Canal in 1999. Despite the historical discrimination, Panamanians like Americans.

    The Chinese have invested significantly in Panama, but the Panamanians have wisely begun to expand their range of investors.

    A delightful and satisfying visit.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    Cafe & Empanada
    Who knew Johnny Walker was Columbian?Juan Valdez welcomes you!The Botero Museum1A family by BoteroBolivar's sword, a gift of PeruCasa Museo Quinta de BolivarA tiny Twizy1Our Catalan vino1Crunchy Fish Tacos -- the best!1One of our fish/shrimp ceviche. Tastes just as you would think

    Panama City to Bogota

    February 13 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Over the last few days, we have seen quite a bit of the Panamanian countryside, the Canal, and Casco Antiguo. Since we arrived at PTY well after dark on Sunday, we missed the much newer city of Panama. We saw it en passant this morning and it looked spectacular. The nation looks prosperous and forward-leaning. They may owe China a bundle for capital improvements but it appears there will be no difficulty paying them back.
    We had an uneventful flight to Bogota. On the airport , bfast was a cafe latte (good) and a Panamanian carne empanada (meh - better in Peru). When we got to security, the guard told me "No water in a plastic bottle". I started to toss it in the trash. "No, no, she said, put the water on your metal water bottle". So I did & tossed the plastic. Who knows?
    The wx on arrival BOG was splendid. High 60's and sunny. Marvelous.
    After check-in, we went to the Centro Historico and saw the Botero Museum (lots of great impressionist et al, plus Botero's works were amusing) and then made a pilgrimage to Simon Bolivar's Quinta (country house). It was like going to St. Peter's.
    It started clouding up as we returned to the hotel and a bit cooler but not bad.
    A risto "Central Cevicheria" was recco'd by our group leader as close by and excellent. As we went to go out it began raining so we grabbed our umbrellas. Then the skies opened and it poured for almost an hour. It was so loud that it drowned out the music in the risto.
    We had crunchy fish tacos and two different fish/shrimp ceviche's both very good. Washed down with a Catalan vino Blanco. Life is bueno.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    2Travel bags with attached scooters -- i need one!
    2Atrium of Boyer museum -- beautiful flowers1Botero's Mother Superior -- I think I knew her!1Alpacas on the street

    Panama to Bogota — a few more photos

    February 13 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    City is on various steep hills. Fog or low clouds rolled in late afternoon, reminiscent of San Francisco. City is a mix of all the race/ethnic groups in Columbia. We even saw a mosque. Older buildings are Spanish colonial architecture. Newer ones are frequently made of brick, even the high rises, which surprised us. Locals have been very kind when we ask directions. Positive first impressions.Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    A plant vendor at the Mercado holding coca.
    Ajiaco soup with all the sidesLost in translationA Calder at the Botero"Gran Genio" by Max Ernst at BoteroPre-Columbian shaman at the Gold Museum. Note cheek bulging with coca & trance-like eyesEmeralds in the wild1"The Offering" This is the Gold Museum's #1 objectGetting ready for the teleferico to MontserrateBogota at dusk from the teleferico4All paths leaf to CompostellaBogota from MontserrateSan Isidro Risto at MontserrateIt was noisy in the San Isidro!

    Saturday In Bogota

    February 14 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    First stop today was the Mercado Plaza, the produce market. Lots of variety. They claim that one could eat a different fruit every day for a year without repeating. Also, Columbia has no growing seasons per se, so things grow all year round... like roses for USA.
    We had a tasting of a dozen fruits; the only name I recall is guava.
    On to the Plaza Major, Bolivar, of course. The layout was the usual: cathedral, judicial bldg, alcalde, and legislature.
    We saw the cathedral (ABC). The judicial bldg is newish as the old one was blown up by tanks when M-19 occupied it. The current prez was a member of M-19.
    Lunch was at nearby risto, Origens, serving indigenous cuisine. We had sweet corn and potato soup with chicken called Ajiaco (which is Criollo). Quite good.
    After lunch we went to the Gold Museum the Botero Museum (again). The Gold Museo got its start as the private collection of bank executives and over time became a gift to the national patrimony.
    Before the Spanish looters came, the Muisca tribe venerated gold as a gift the gods found pleasing. So they would craft an object and toss it in a deep, essentially bottomless lake. The Spanish got wind of this and removed a bunch but much more remained. Most left Columbia but some gold was used to entice the natives to go to church where gold was liberally used objects like the monstrance or on gold leaf on the reredos. The shininess was like the sun god.
    Next, our plan was to take the teleferico up to Montserrate in time for sunset but we ran late. What we did see was a beautiful panorama of the city at night. We took some time to see the shrine and then stayed up at the St Isadore risto for our "Welcome" dinner.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    2Bogota City at night

    Bogota City

    February 14 in Colombia ⋅ 🌩️ 13 °C

    Got back too late tonight to write. We'll catch up tomorrow.
    T+M

  • Panama and Columbia
    2Each time they dug deeper into the salt mine, the miners built a chapel to Mary to pray for safety.
    1Main altar of the salt cathedral.Colombians love meringue cookies and these were especially good with chocolate and strawberries.1Cathedral in the town was built in 1634. Pillars of rock with Corinthian columns were handsome.More beautiful stonework in the town cathedral.Cornell in a surprisingly 2nd Empire style

    Salt Mine and charming Zipaquira

    February 15 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I found the town far more delightful than Tom did. Was built on the usual central plaza with a cathedral on one side and city hall on the other. The old buildings were 2 stories with balconies on the 2nd story. I think it’s the sort of town where they all know each other. We watched a funeral procession coming out of the cathedral and I think the whole town was there.

    We’re off to the coffee plantations tomorrow. Coffee here is excellent.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    The shiny stuff in the caves is feldspar
    2This kneeler on the Via Crucis is carved from saltAt this station, XII, I think, the cross is emptyStatue of GabrielPapa Francisco!The striations are from the miner's tools (it was done by hand), the white veins are salt.The Pieta. Mary had the features of a Muisca womanA Salt MinerThis work echoes "The Offering" from the Gold Museum1A group of art students are carving this scene out of salt. Unfinished but worthy of admirationBaked chicken lunch at Quira. In Muisca culture, Zipa is chief, Quira is wife1In Independence Plaza, flags of the 5 nations freed by BolivarObleas at Toledo on Zipaquira. Tastes like a Nutter Butter cookieHalf chocolate, half caramel. A happy camper!Marcia & our guide -- the son of a salt miner and univ. educatedA telefono palm tree

    Zipaquira & Salt Cathedral

    February 15 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    An hour outside of Bogota is an ancient salt dome the indigenous and successors have been mining for centuries. It is estimated that there is enough salt to last for two more centuries.
    About 70 years ago, the miners started bringing a statue of the Virgin with them as they mined. Eventually, they decided to build a chapel for the same. Regrettably, water intrusion caused the chapel to close. About 25 years ago the miners dug out a new set of tunnels and built a chapel in one of them. There is a lot more to the story but it's a bit in the weeds.
    We had been warned to dress warmly but it was quite warm below decks.
    Next stop was lunch and a walkabout in the town of Zipaquira. A nice place but not that much is reportable.
    Tomorrow we fly to Pereira and the coffee region. I'm hoping to see Juan Valdez.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    Bogota has bus only lanes with stations and scads of these 3 part buses which always seem to be full
    American Bamboo is raised here and used in construction. The brown poles are bambooCoffee bean shaped cookies1Coffee flavored too1Lots of jeeps left from Korean War in which Columbia participatedMore Korean War era relicsTypical lunch: chicken, beef, pork, yucca, avocado, salsa, broth, corn, etcA confection with house coffee. Both deliciousA coffee tree with beans on the wildCoffee seedlings at progressive stages and unripe/ripe/overripe beansThe bean inside the berry1One of the finca's 15 pickersRipe beansHe will visit each tree every two weeks which allows the beans to ripenFuture mulch: husks, skins, used grounds from local cafesPapayas1After picking, berries are dumped in water. Ripe ones sink -- unripe/overripe float & are removedThe ripe berries are split into 3 gradesMiddle grade beans are air fried and the skins removedOur group at Supper1The Salento version of chicken salad,incl yucca and avoc3Calle Real, Salento. Note curb lighimg

    Salento & the Coffee Region

    February 16 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After an early start we flew from BOG to PEI, then bus to Montenegro and jeep to the Jesus Martin coffee finca ("Our coffee is in the mouths of the whole world).
    After a typical big lunch with coffee, we got Part One of the grand tour and lecture.
    We then drove to the nearby town of Salento where Part Two will continue tomorrow.
    As you would expect, this area is quite rural and a big change from Bogota (except for the rain or ever present threat of rain.
    Supper was at a local risto a block away. It appears to be a version of chicken salad with area ingredients and it was really good. Afterwards we executed a paseo in the town. For 9;30 on a school night, the place was jumping. We passed one bar/pool hall where they were playing carrilera music which is a cross between Mexican corrida's and country & western.    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    2A warm welcome from Juan Valdez at the Pereira airport.
    Omar, our Local Expert, was named for Omar Sharif because his mother liked the actor.Samuel, our guide, is dual citizen and passionate about Colombian history and politics.3While hiking the Cocora Valley, we met a real Coffee picker transporting coffee beans. Note shoes1While hiking, someone exclaimed, "Just like Sound of Music, but with palm trees!Tom was selected to donate a new palm tree to replace a dying one in the preserve.

    Coffee and Salento

    February 17 in Colombia ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We flew from Bogota to Pereira and rode the bus into the coffee region. I previously thought that coffee was Columbia’s primary export but coffee turns out to be .#6. Petroleum is #1, followed by coal, gold, bananas, and gems. If our tour guide and the local expert are any example, Colombians drink coffee through out the day. A coffee farm is called a hacienda.

    The hacienda feed the workers 3 meals a day and charges them a fee for each meal. Our lunch was a hearty worker’s meal and very good.

    Today’s hike in a preserve showcased beautiful tropical flowers and some exotic birds. Lunch was the local specialty of trout with a garlic sauce for me and trout with a cheese and shrimp sauce for Tom. We dine very well here. Glad we hike to balance out our intake!    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    1The hills are terraced left from the indigenous who grew maize. Locals grew potato but now too warm
    In the park, a section of the Inca Trail which ran from Lima to Cartagena.Marcia and a beautiful red flower1Canelazos, a cool weather drink reminiscent of mulled wine.A colorful coraquila birdThe tiny ballerina orchidThe national tree, the Wax Palm, which can grow to 250' and live 300-400 yearsWill this grow into a palm tree?2Heart-shaped arepas for St Valentine'sA coconut cream lemonada and garlic trout2Trout in Seaman's SauceRemoving the parchment from the washed beansThe husksThe de-husked beansA final sifting to remove impurities and undersized beansRoasting at 160°C. 3 stages: evaporation, caramelization & popcornFinally -- medium roast beans. Now the cool for 24 hrs before grindingThe Santana Traditional Coffee. Flavorful and not acidic. Ah.

    Cocora Valley & Coffee Roasting

    February 17 in Colombia ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    After bfast on the hotel's upper floor, our local guide (Omar) gave us a deeply personal and very informative hour on the turbulent history of Columbia and the Quindio coffee region.
    To condense an hour into a few lines: FARC and other groups started out as exported revolution from Cuba in the early 1960s. For a decade they helped the farmers improve quality of life. Then FARC needed $$, do they resorted to extortion & kidnapping (1976-89). Then was the period of warfare between FARC (in the mountains) & the paramilitaries (in the towns). FARC evolved from guerillas to narco-terrorists and continued that way until the "Peace" in 2016. The strife continues on other regions (Venezuela border) but is over here but not forgotten.
    Omar's father refused to pay up and they had to abandon their farm & move to the city. Omar's wife's family also refused to pay up but they stayed on. Her father & two brothers were disappeared. Very sad and moving.
    Post lecture we went to the Cocora Valley which is up in the hills. Until the Peace of 2016 it was off limits because it was close to the narco trails. Now it is a beautiful park. We had a hike at 10,000 feet and some show and tell. There were lots & lots of domestic tourists there as well.
    Down to a town for a delicious trout lunch (and the start of today's rain). Followed by a symbolic tree planting (due to rain).
    The afternoon was Part 2 of the coffee saga
    Today: Roasting & Tasting.
    Among other things we learned that medium roast has the most flavor and that espresso method has the least caffeine. Often, dark roasts are used to mask inferior bean quality. We'll do some taste tests after we get back.
    Two quotes from today: "Good coffee needs no sugar; bad coffee doesn't deserve it." And,
    "The wx in this part of the Andes is so unpredictable that we trust the politicians more than the wx."
    Ps. 3 Stages of Roasting: Evaporation (removed excess moisture), Caramelization (you know what this is) and Popcorn (the beans start popping in the roaster -- you can hear them!)    Read more

  • Panama and Columbia
    1Chinese EVs at a rest stop
    1The panoramic view from sameTwo types of Columbia's national flower, the Christmas Orchid1The Hacienda GatoHummingbirds1Equal time for the Hacienda PeroA coca plant which has gotten out of handTiny Orchids #11OrchidsMore orchidsTiny Orchids #21Tiny Orchids #3An ebony tree providing shade to the orchidsCalabash PlantOne of the few butterflies at the FincaCactus Flower #1Cactus Flower #21The multo famosa sculpture of Bolivar as a wounded condor (Columbia's national bird)

    Salento to Manizales

    February 18 in Colombia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We bid farewell to Salento and motored to the Finca Romelia which is in the District of Manizales but a long way from downtown. Enroute we passed the Nevado del Ruiz Volcano which in 1985 killed 23,000 in the town of Armero (this is a story of a needless tragedy) and the former estate of Carlos Lehder (Pablo Escobar's partner).
    The Finca has a huge collection of orchids and was an amazing experience. Orchids are bromeliads and most were growing off a slab of wood. The tour and lunch took up a good chunk of the day.
    From there to Manizales which is perched on a mountain top and is the center (and capital) of Columbia's coffee triangle. We took a windshield tour of the burg and given the this was Ash Wednesday, the natives we're out on force. The going was slow (today is also the start of Ramadan but I don't think that had much impact here).
    Tomorrow we continue on to Medellin.    Read more

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